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ALASKA 


"^ 


'^. 


ALASKA 

ITS  HISTORY  AND  RESOURCES 

GOLD  FIELDS 

ROUTES  AND  SCENERY 


BY 

MINER  BRUCE 


SECOND  EDITION,  REVISED  AND  ENLARGED 


ILHISTRATGD 


G.  P.  PUTNAVi'S  SONS 

NEW   YORK  &   LONDON 

Cbe  IknlcUccbocftCf  press 

1899 


1^. 


"A'fl^- ; 


!► 


—  ALASKA  — 

ITS  HISTORY  AND  RESOURCES 

GOLD  FIELDS 

ROUTES  AND  SCENERY 


BY 


MINER  BRUCE 


SECOND  EDITION,  REVISED  AND  ENLARGED 


ILLUSTRATED 


G.  P.  PUTNAM'S  SONS 

NEW   YORK  &   LONDON 

Zbe  fjnlcheibocfter  press 

1899 


!  1 


Bv  LOW  MAN 


COFYBIOHT,    1S95 

^  HANFORD  STATIONERY  ^  PRINTING  CO. 

Revised  and  Enlarged  Edition 

Copyright,  1899 

By  miner  BRUCE 

Entered  at  Stationers'  Hall,  t-ondon 


■Cbe  *nicli«bock«  Pte»»,  Wew  »otl« 


PREFACE 

I  FIRST  went  to  Alaska  In  i8v^9,  ^"d  subsequent  in- 
vestigation and  research  SvO  impressed  me  with  its 
future  possibilities  that  in  J93  I  issued  a  small  book 
on  Alaska,  and  gave  it  the  title  flic  Coming  Country. 
Viewed  in  the  light  of  after  uevclopments,  it  seems  to 
have  been  prophetic. 

In  1895,  I  issued  a  more  comprehensive  work  entitled 
Bruce  s  Alaska,  and  the  growing  interest  in  that  region 
seems  to  justify  the  publication  of  this  volume,  in  which 
I  have  undertaken  to  give  an  intelligent  idea  of  the  vast 
and  varied  resources  of  Alaska,  its  past  and  present,  and 
the  bright  outlook  for  its  future,  based  upon  ten  years  of 
travel  and  observation. 

A  more  complete  reference  to  what  is  known  as  South- 
east Alaska  than  is  herein  contained  may  be  found  in  my 
monograph  in  the  United  States  Census  Report  for  1890, 
and  a  more  detailed  account  of  the  Eskimos  of  Alaska 
will  be  found  in  my  report  to  the  Bureau  of  Education. 
Both  may  be  had  free  upon  application  to  their  respec- 
tive departments  in  Washington. 

While  the  interest  in  this  region,  aroused  by  the  won- 
derful discoveries  of  gold  in  the  Klondike,  is  bounded 
only  by  the  limits  of  the  two  hemispheres,  the  world 
does  not  yet  realise  the  vastness  and  variety  of  its 
resources. 

Pacific  N.W.  History  Dept. 

PROVINCIAL.  LIBRARY 
ViOTORIA,  EI.O. 


'^ 


27824 


IV 


PREFACE 


On  account  of  its  severe  climatic  conditions,  the  estab- 
lishing of  new  enterprises  and  the  carrying  on  of  mining 
^jursuits  can  be  accomplished  only  with  great  difficulty. 

I  need  give  no  admonition  or  advice  "  to  go,"  for 
already  the  tide  of  emigration  has  turned  toward  this 
portion  of  the  domains  of  the  midnight  sun,  and  the 
bleak  hills  of  Alaska  are  swarming  with  hurrying  thou- 
sands eager  to  identify  themselves  with  this  new  Eldo- 
rado; but  if  anyone  expects  to  succeed  there  without 
experiencing  the  hardships  and  privations  incident  to 
pioneer  life,  he  will  be  disappointed. 

Mixer  Bruce. 

New  York,  A]iril,  1899. 


I 

I 


I 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 
I 


CHAPTER  1 
History        .•••••■■ 

Alaska-Discovered  Ly  Vitus  Bering  in  i72S-Discovery  of  Mt. 
St  Elias— Search  of  tlie  Spaniards-Capt,  Cook-\  ancouver- 
I'urchaseof  Alaska  in  1867-Originof  Name -Geographical  Extent 
-First  Lease  of  Fur-Seal  Islands-Organic  Act-A  Prohibition 
Country— Liquor-License  Law-Smuggling  of  Liquor— Conven- 
tions and  Memorials  to  Congress-Efforts  to  Secure  Congress.ona 
Legislation-Homestead  Laws  Extended  to  Alaska-Passage  of 
Criminal  Law  Code-Opposition  to  Territorial  Organization- 
President  should  Appoint  a  Delegate. 

CHAPTER  II 

Topography         

Elements  of  Grandeur-Verdant  Islands-Two  Great  Natural  Di- 
visions-Numerous Fiords-Frozen  Ground-Immense  \  alleys- 
Luxuriant  Vegetation-Lakes  and  Tundra-Cniiding  Landmarks 
-Mountain  Peaks  and  Volcanoes-Mt.  Bogoston-Priest  Rock- 
New  Eddvstone  Rock-Hot  Springs-Cape  Prince  of  Wales-D.o- 
mede  Islands-Bering  Strait-Railroad  across  the  Strait-Railroad 
from  Skaguay  -  Raihoad  in  \Vestern  Alaska-Inducements  for 
Railroad  Huilaing— Is'o  Large  Metropolis. 

CHAPTER  III 

Climate  and  Agriculture 

Japan  Current-Precipitation  of  Coast  Country-Average  Rain- 
and  3r>owfaU  -  Great  Diversity  of  CMmate- Healthfulness  of 
Alaskan  Climate-Dense  Vegetati.m-Cultivation  of  Root  Crops- 
Cereals  and  Grasses-Wild  Berries-Agricultural  Experiments- 
Secretary  of  Agriculture  Recommends  Experimental  Stations- 
Interior  as  a  Stock-Raising  Country— Tundra. 

V 


21 


32 


VI 


CONTENTS 
CHAPTER    IV 


PAGE 


Mineral  and  Timber  

First  Discovery  of  Gold  in  South-east  Alaska — Great  Treadwell 
Mine — Progress  of  Mining — Rich  Deposits  of  Silver  and  Galena 
Ore — Free  Milling  Ore  —  Copper  River  —  Cook  Inlet  —  Russian 
Placer  Mining  in  Early  Days — Golofnin  Bay  and  Neukluk  River — 
Kotzebue  Sound — Yellow  Cedar — Spruce  and  Hemlock — Timber 
of  the  Interior — Bituminous  Coal. 


3« 


CHAPTER  V 


Fisheries 


56 


Salmon-Canning  Industry — Varieties  of  Fish  in  Alaskan  Waters — 
Capacity  of  Canneries — A  Cannery  Trust — Salmon  Streams — River 
of  Life — Development  of  Alaska  Retarded — Cod  and  Halibut 
Fishing — Immense  Schools  of  Herring — Oolikon  or  Candle-Fish. 

CHAPTER    VI 
Land  and  Sea  Animals      ......       63 

Fur-Seal  Industry — Seal  Rookeries — Sixty-Mile  Limit — England 
Derives  (ireatest  Benefit — Threatened  Extermination  of  Fur  Seal 
— Paris  Tribunal — Lease  of  Islands — Hunting  the  Sea  Otter — 
Brown  and  Black  Bear — Thlinkit  Legend — Home  of  the  Beaver 
—  The  Black,  Red,  White,  Blue,  and  Cross  Fox  —  Marten  — 
Mink — Polar  Bear — Lynx — Wolverine — Deer,  Moose,  and  Other 
Animals — Eagles  and  Humming-Birds — The  Feathery  Tribe — 
Black  Whale — Whalebone — Vast  Resources  of  Alaska. 


* 


CHAPTER  VII 


Reindeer 


84 


Importation  of  Reindeer — Starving  Eskimos  and  Cause  of  Same — 
First  Reindeer  Station — Arctic  Alaska  Natural  Feeding-Grounds 
for  Reindeer  —  A  Boon  to  the  Eskimos — Habits  of  Reindeer  — 
Manner  of  Driving — Reindeer  for  Transportation — Sledges  and 
Harness — Reindeer  Good  Travellers — Congress  Appropriates  I25,- 
000 — First  Efforts  Ridiculed — Failure  of  Reindeer  Importation 
from  Lapland— Heroic  Conduct  of  Lieutenants  Jarvis  and  Bertholf, 
Surgeon  Call,  and  W.  T.  Lopp — Eskimo  Dog. 


CONTENTS 


vn 


CHAPTER  VIII 

PACE 

Eskimo  Habits  and  Customs 93 

Origin  of  the  Eskimo — Resemblance  to  Japanese — Extent  of 
Country  Occupied — An  Eskimo  Dwelling — An  Industrious  People 
— Primitive  Manner  of  Making  Fire — Slaves  to  Tobacco — Oomiak 
and  Kyak — Snosv-Shoes — Eskimo  Traits — Ornaments  and  Tattoo- 
ing— Artiger  or  Coat — Eskimo  Rain  Coat — Polygamy  Practised — 
Athletic  Sports — Dancing  Principal  Amusement — Religious  Un- 
belief— Worthy  Objects  of  Charity. 

CHAPTER    IX 
Alaska  Indians  .......     108 

Their  Origin — Languages  Spoken — Quass — Totem  Pole — Witch- 
craft— Exorcising  Evil  Spirits — Cremation  still  Practised — Sha- 
mans or  Doctors — Expert  in  Carving  and  Engraving — Chilkat 
Blanket — Atonement  for  Murder — Blackening  Faces — Houses  of 
Natives. 

CHAPTER  X 

Missions  and  Schools         .         .         .         .         .         .116 

Russian  Missionaries  —  A  Strange  Admixture — Little  Progtess 
Made — Indian  Attendance  at  School  not  Encouraged — Long  Neg- 
lect of  Congress  to  Provide  Civil  Government — Public-School 
.System  Established — Indian  Industrial  Training  School — Devotion 
of  Missionaries  and  Teachers — Rev.  William  Duncan — Christian 
Martyrs — Evil  Influences — The  Remedy. 


CHAPTER    XI 
Picturesque  Alaska 124 

From  Seattle  to  Sitka — The  Season  for  Tourists — Seattle — Tacoma 
— Port  ToM'iisend — Victoria — Nanaimo — Seymour  Narrows — Chat- 
ham Sound — First  Glimpse  of  Alaska--New  Metlakahtla — Fort 
Wrangel  —  Wrangel  Narrows  —  Taku  Inlet  —  Juneau — Treadwell 
Mine — Lynn  Canal — Skaguay — Dyea — Glacier  Bay — The  Silent 
City — Muir  Glacier — Peril  Strait — Sitka — Mt.  Edgecombe — The 
Far  Beyond. 

CHAPTER  XII 

Routes  to  the  Interior   .  .  •     '5^ 

Seattle  the  Rendezvous — Detailed  Description  of  Routes — The 
English   Gold   Commissioner — Forty   Mile — Fort   Cudahy  —  St. 


VIU 


COXTE.YTS 


Michaels — Skaguay  Trail — Stikeeii  River  Route — New  Telegraph 
Line — Taku  Route— Dalton  Trail — Dawson — St.  Michaels — Ska- 
guay— First  Railroad  in  Alaska — Mackenzie  River  Route — Back- 
Door  Route. 


(TI.\PTER  XIII 


YuKux  CloLD- Fields 


178 


Gold  First  Discovered — Stewart  River  n-.  Ea'ly  Diggings — lis 
Promising  Prospects— Perhaps  the  Coming  Camp — Quartz  Ledges 
on  Stewart  River — Forty  Mile,  Si.xty  Mile,  Miller,  Glacier,  and 
ISirch  Creeks — Indian  River — Munook — Its  Bright  Prospects — 
Character  of  Gold — Koyukuk  River — Kuskoquim  River — Large 
Nugget — Prospecting  fur  Quartz — Life  of  Placer  Miner. 


I 


CHAPTER  XIV 
Kloxdikk      .........      T92 

Klondike — First  Discovery — Stampede  from  Circle  City — Bonanza 
Creek — Hunter — Bear — .\dams — Dominion — (lold  Bottom — Skoo- 
kum — Eldorado — Alex.  McDonald — Mounted  Police — First  Seasmi 
on  the  Klondike — Mrs.  Lippy — Mrs.  Berry — Country  Back  of 
Dawson — Character  of  Country — Winter  Diggings — Burning  off — 
Gulch  and  Piench  Claims — Quartz  in  Adjacent  Mountains. 


'\ 


CHAPTER  XV 
Suggestions  to  Prospectors       .....     201 

Where  to  Secure  Supplies — Amount  of  Money  Necessary — Letters 
of  Credit — Certificate  of  Deposit — Quantity  of  Sui)plies — How  to 
Pass  over  Summit — Advice  to  Womer. — Every  Man  for  Himself — 
Kind  of  Sled  Needed — How  to  Car^  for  It — Arms  and  Ammunition 
—  Size  of  Pack  —  Legal  Boundary  Post  —  Eye-Shades  —  Eskimo 
Boots — Food — List  of  Snp]>lies. 


CHAPTER   XVI 
Disputed  Territory  .         .  .         .         .214 

The  Boundary  Dispute — Claims  Made  by  the  British  Government 
— Tlie  Treaty  between  Russia  and  England— Line  of  Demarcation 
— Absurdity  of  British  Claims — Ten-Marine-League  Limit — Port- 
land Canal — Language  of  Treaty — Why  Great  Britain  Wants  this 
Territory— .\n  Outlet  to  the  Interior. 


Index 


227 


178 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


H 


192 


201 


214 


I 


1 


A    Dangerots    I'lace   d.v   the    "  \\V)RLii's    Crr-oFF."    Skaguay 
Trail         ........        Frontispiicc 

Totem   Pole     ......         2 

Russian  Dluck  IIoise  w  Sitka 5 

Mount  Uogoston  Volcand 24 

Priest  Rock,  Entrance  to  Peking  Sea,  near  Unalca  Pass  26 
Eskimo   Village   at    Cape    Prince   of    Wales,    Western    Ex- 
tremity OF  the  Continent 28 

Landing  Railroad  Sitplies  near  Unala;-:i.ik     ....  30 
Oats,  Barley,  Fla.\,  Potatoes,  Grasses    and   Clover  Grown 

BY  THE  Department  of  AcKicfLTrRE  at  Sitka.  i>9S  .         .  36 

The  Treadwell  Ledge.        .                 3S 

The  Great  Treadwell  Mill        ...                 .         .  40 

ViW  iiF  Golofnin  Bay  and  Neckhk   River  Goli -Fields  48 

Indian  Canoes 56 

Karlvk  Sand  Spit  and  "River  he  Lifk' =3 

A  Seal      .         .                 63 

Fur  Se.\l  Rookery,  St.  Paul  Island 64 

KiLLiMi  Fur  Seal,  St.  Paul  Island 66 

Seal  in  Water 67 

Eski.mo  Village  on  King's  Island,  Xurih  Bering  Ska             .  84 

Herd  of  Reindeer  Lying  Down 86 

Reindeer  Team 92 

Artmarikke  Dressed  as  a  Japanese q6 

Eskimo  Twin  Sisters  (.\rtmarhoke  and  Zakariner)         .         .  gS 

102 


Eskimo   Boy,    Eskimo    Hut,    Eskimo    Girls,    Fskimi 
Eskimo  Spearing  Walrus 


MILY 


IX 


il 


X  ILLUSTRATIONS 

A  Typical  Alaska  Eskimo  Girl  . 

Indian  Doctor 

South-Eastern  Alaska  Indians  and  Canoes 
Sitka  at  10.30  p.m.         ... 

New  Metlakahtla  ' 

Greek  Church  at  Sitka,  Exterior  Vikw  . 
Greei:  Church  at  Sitka,  Interior  View  '  . 
Grenville  Channel,  on  Tourist  Route 

Juneau * 

The  Silent  City     .... 

Front  of  Muir  Glacier  ' 

Crevasse  on  Top  of  Muir  Glacier  ' 

Baranoff  Castle    .... 

Sitka  Harbour       .... 

Yukon  Miners  at  Sheep  Camp*    . 

Yukon  Miners  Sledding  over  Route' 

Yukon  Miners  Packing  over  Route  ' 

Yukon  Miners  and  Natives  Packing  over  Route' 

Yukon  Miners  at  Stone  House - 

Yukon  Miners  and  Natives  at  Summit  of  Chilkoo-i 

Yukon  River  through  the  Canyon    . 

Unloading  Freight  from  Barge  at  Skaguay 

Winter  on  the  Skaguay  Trail   . 

Map  of  American  and  Mission  Creek  Gold-Fields 

Map  of  Forty  Mile  Creek  Gold-Fields 

Map  of  Birch  Creek  Gold-Fields 

Map  of  Munook  Creek  Gold-Fields 

A  Yukon  Nugget    .... 

Map  of  Klondike  Gold-Fields     . 

Map  of  Alaska       .... 


PAGE               s 

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132 

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146 

•  148 

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■  156 

.    .    .  158 

.  160 

r  Pass'  .  162         ■ 

.  164        1 
.  166         1 

.168         1 

•  ^^^         1 

■  '82         1 

•  184        J 

•  186         1 

.  190         1 

■  194        J 

.  In  pocket  at  end                   ^ 

'  Reproduced  from  .1  photograph  by  La  Roche,  Seattle,  Wash. 

'  Reproduced  from  a  photograph  by  Winter  &  Pond,  Juneau,  Alaska. 


PAGE 
104 

112 

114 

118 

120 

126 

128 

132 

142 
144 

146 

148 

148 

158 
160 
162 
164 
166 
168 

T-a. 

182 
.  184 
.  186 
.      190 

.      194 
(•/  at  end 


AlkSKh 


mil 


m 


'  ! 


i4 


*1 


I 


1  u 

■  ;  !  Ml 


ALASKA 


CHAPTER  I 


HISTORY 

ALASKA  is  the  name  of  all  that  portion  of  the  north- 
west extremity  of  this  continent,  which,  until  1867, 
was  known  as  Russian  America. 

It  is  only  a  matter  of  conjecture  how  long  this  region 
would  have  remained  a  terra  incognita  had  not  the  Im- 
perial Government  at  St.  Petersburg  sent  Vitus  Bering, 
a  Dane  by  birth,  on  a  voyage  of  discovery.  The  year 
1728  saw  him  in  command  of  an  expedition  whose  object 
was  to  find,  if  possible,  new  lands,  and  whose  course  led 
through  the  waters  east  of  Siberia  until  he  arrived  in  the 
great  closed  sea  that  now  bears  his  name. 

The  object  of  this  expedition  does  not  appear  in  any 
degree  to  have  been  a  desire  to  contribute  to  the  cause 
of  science ;  but  the  prime  motives  were  aggrandisement 
and  to  extend  the  limits  of  trade. 

During  this  voyage,  Bering  discovered  that  the  two 
continents  were  separated  by  only  a  narrow  stretch  of 
water  at  the  point  nov/  known  as  Bering  Strait,  and  that 


N 


I 


I 
I 


I 


r-i 


■  1  ■ 


i       ! 


A  LAS  A' A 


m 


the  coast  of  the  one  was  plainly  visible  from  the  shores 
of  the  other.  The  year  following,  this  intrepid  navi- 
gator endeavoured  to  find  a  coast-line 
across  the  waters  to  the  eastward,  but 
failed  in  his  attempt. 

Immediately  following  this  cruise,  and 
for  many  years  after,  there  were  rife  ru- 
mours which  seemed  to  gather  impetus 
with  each  recurring  year,  aided,  doubt- 
less, by  Bering's  own  record  of  his  voy- 
ages, that  a  rich  country  lay  in  the  "  Far 
Beyond,"  and  so  the  Russian  Govern- 
ment was  stimulated  to  persist  in  its 
efforts. 

In  1 74 1,  Bering  again  set  sail  with  two 
vessels.  Severe  weather  and  heavy  fogs 
caused  them  to  drift  apart ;  one  of  them 
attempted  a  landing  at  Cook  Inlet,  but 
the  Indians  attacked  and  killed  a  num- 
ber of  the  party,  and  caused  the  re- 
mainder to  put  to  sea  and  make  their 
way  homeward  as  fast  as  possible. 
'•  Bering,  however,  sailed  farther  east- 
TOTEM  POLE.  Ward,  and  sighted  an  island  near  Cape  St. 
Elias  now  known  as  Kayak  Island.  There  appears  to  have 
been  no  extended  exploration  at  that  time;  for,  ere  long, 
we  are  told,  Bering  also  turned  the  course  of  his  vessel 
westward,  and,  being  beset  by  violent  storms,  was 
stranded  east  of  the  Gulf  of  Kamtchatka,  upon  the  is- 
land which  now  bears  his  name;  and  there  shortly  after, 
being  overtaken  by  disease,  he  died  and  was  buried. 


: 


M 


!  -I  i 


HISTORY 


To  this  fearless  explorer  belongs  the  honour  of  dis- 
covering and  naming  Mt.  St.  Elias,  which,  towering 
I.S.OCXJ  feet  heavenward,  stands  a  weird  and  grandly 
beautiful  monument  to  his  memory.  This  snowy  shaft 
marks  the  southern  point  of  the  boundary  line  separating 
South-east  Alaska  from  the  great  region,  extending  many 
hundred  miles  northward  to  the  frozen  ocean,  known  as 
Western  Alaska;  an  august  sentinel,  clad  in  robes  of 
white,  there  it  stands,  forever  keeping  a  silent  vigil  over 
the  waters  of  the  mighty  Pacific. 

The  Spaniards,  in  the  prosecution  of  their  search  for 
the  supposed  passage  to  India,  which  was  the  great  ob- 
jective point  of  their  early  navigators,  were  gradually 
extending  their  explorations  northward  from  the  South 
American  and  Mexican  coasts.  In  1592,  Juan  de  Fuca 
reached  as  far  north  as  the  strait  that  now  bears  his  name, 
and  in  1775  we  find  that  Spanish  explorers  had  reached 
Sitka. 

The  Russians,  in  the  meantime,  had  arrived  at  Una- 
laska. 

Nor  had  the  English  forgotten  to  send  representatives 
to  this  new  field  of  exploration.  Captain  Cook,  one  of 
the  most  daring  navigators  of  his  time,  justly  shares  with 
Bering,  who  preceded  him,  as  does  also  his  young  lieu- 
tenant, Vancouver,  who  followed  him,  the  glory  and 
honour  of  navigating  the  waters  of  Bering  Sea  and  the 
North  Pacific.  It  was  on  his  return  voyage  that  Cook 
was  treacherously  killed,  and,  it  is  believed,  eate  'jy 
the  natives  on  one  of  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

The  uncompleted  work  of  Captain  Cook  fell  upon  the 
shoulders  of  a  worthy  successor,  and  the  surveys  which 


■M 


i 


^f, 


1 1  i 


It 


ALASKA 


Vancouver  commenced  about  1792  covered  his  name  with 
glory.  The  remarkable  care  and  ability  with  which  h(^ 
executed  the  work  begun  by  his  old  commander  are,  even 
in  this  day  of  improved  facilities  of  maritime  science,  held 
in  honour;  for  his  charts  are  closely  followed  and  in  the 
main  found  reliable. 

From  the  time  of  the  planting  of  the  Czar's  flag  upon 
the  soil  of  this  great  unknown  country,  its  honour  was 
sullied  by  acts  of  oppression  and  cruelty.  The  Russian- 
American  Fur  Company  had  securel'  planted  its  trading 
posts  throughout  the  new  territory,  it  its  rule  was  char- 
acterised by  the  most  barbarous  conduct,  and  it  became 
so  notorious  that  at  the  expiration  of  its  charter  in  1862 
the  Government  was  forced  to  deny  further  franchise. 

Three  years  later,  in  1865,  the  Western  Union  Tele- 
graph Company  proposed  to  construct  a  line  from  San 
Francisco  northward  through  the  Pacific  States  and  Ter- 
ritories to  connect  with  the  Russian  line  at  its  then  ter- 
minus, Amoor,  Siberia.  Many  miles  of  line  were  built, 
but  the  route  failed  of  completion  because  of  the  success- 
ful laying  of  the  Atlantic  cable,  and  after  an  expenditure 
of  over  $3,000,000  the  enterprise  was  abandoned. 

The  path  of  the  proposed  route  can  yet  be  traced  for 
many  miles  in  the  North-west  Territory  by  che  poles  that 
are  standing  with  wires  stretched  between  them.  The 
outpost  of  the  party  engaged  in  its  construction  reached 
a  point  and  made  its  winter  quarters  within  sixty  miles 
of  the  extreme  western  limit  of  the  continent,  and  the 
remains  of  two  members  of  the  party  lie  buried  in  graves 
dug  in  the  icy  shore,  two  miles  east  of  the  United  States 
reindeer  station  at  Port  Clarence.  Alaska. 


1 

i 


nic  with 
/hich  hi- 
iro,  even 
ice,  held 
id  in  the 

lag  upon 
lour  was 
Russian- 
s  trading 
vas  char- 
t  became 
r  in  1862 
ichise. 
ion  Tele- 
'rom  San 
and  Ter- 
then  ter- 
re  built, 
success- 
oenditure 
.1. 

raced  for 
Doles  that 
:m.  The 
n  reached 
xty  miles 
:,  and  the 
in  graves 
:ed  States 


HISTORY  % 

The  United  States  purchased  Alaska  from  Russia  in 
1867,  paying  the  sum  of  $7  r'oo.rvxi  for  it.  At  the  time 
of  the  purchase  this  was  generilly  looked  upon  as  an 
extravagant  expenditure;  but  ridicule  at  the  action  of 
Secretary  Seward  in  this  transaction  has  been  changed 


RUSSIAN   BLOCKHOUSE   AT   SITKA. 

to  a  sentiment  that  credits  him  witli  shrewd  diplomacy 
in  thus  securing  this  great  territory. 

Conjecture  is  never  idle,  and  various  reasons  have  been 
assigned  why  Russia  disposed  of  her  vast  possessions  on 
this  continent. 

It  has  been  said  that  the  United  States  commenced  the 
negotiation  to  remunerate  Russia,  under  the  guise  of  pur- 
chase, for  her  friendly  attitude  toward  us  during  the  civil 


\\ 


if   i: 

I 

:ir:,. 


6  ALASKA 

war.  Many  also  believe  that  Russia  sought  to  dispose  of 
this  territory  to  the  United  Statc^  that  England  might 
not,  in  some  way,  absorb  it,  and  so  strengthen  her 
already  powerful  hold  on  this  continent.  The  most 
reasonable  solution  of  the  question,  however,  is,  that  she 
wished  to  be  relieved  of  the  care  and  protection  which 
her  subjects  so  constantly  required  of  her  in  maintaining 
the  semblance  of  a  government  on  this  continent,  so 
far  removed  from  her  own  shores.  This  view  is  also 
strengthened  by  the  fact  that  Russia  at  no  time  from  the 
earliest  acquisition  of  the  territory  manifested  any  special 
interest  in  its  development,  and  that  the  motives  that 
actuated  her  in  holding  her  possessions  were  largely  in- 
fluenced by  the  Russian-American  Fur  Company. 

While  the  name  "  Alaska  "  has  been  a  synonym  for  a 
bleak,  inhospitable  waste  of  ice  and  snow,  its  literal  in- 
terpretation will  permit  of  no  such  construction.  The 
aboriginal  word  is  "  Al-ak-sliak, "  and  means  a  great 
country. 

Covering  a  country  eight  hundred  miles  north  and 
south  by  about  seven  hundred  east  and  west,  containing 
six  hundred  thousand  square  miitc,  or  an  area  equal  to 
one-sixth  of  all  the  rest  of  the  United  States,  it  seems  an 
empire  in  itself. 

It  was  Charles  Sumner  who,  at  the  time  of  the  pur- 
chase, suggested  the  name  "  Alaska,"  and  it  was  as  a 
compliment  in  return  for  his  warm  advocacy  of  the  pur- 
chase that  Secretary  Seward  sanctioned  the  suggestion. 

In  i8go,  the  lease  of  the  fur-seal  islands  to  the  Alaska 
Commercial  Company  expired,  and  at  that  time  Alaska 
may  be  said  to  have  emerged  from  a  mantle  of  gloom 


3 
% 


Ispose  of 

d  might 

len   her 

e   most 

that  she 

n  which 

ntaining 

nent,    so 

is  also 

from  the 

ly  special 

ives  that 

argely  in- 

tiym  for  a 

literal  in- 

!on.     The 

s   a  great 

north  and 
:ontaining 
1  equal  to 
t  seems  an 

f  the  pur- 
was  as  a 
)f  the  pur- 
ggestion. 
he  Alaska 
ne  Alaska 
of  gloom 


HISTORY  7 

and  desolation.  By  this  we  mean  that  the  great  barrier 
in  the  way  of  its  development  was  removed  when  this 
industry  passed  into  other  hands. 

The  day  that  marked  the  lowering  of  the  Russian  flag 
at  Sitka  and  the  hoisting  of  the  Stars  and  Stripes  realised 
the  conception  of  a  plan  between  a  few  shrewd  men  who 
saw  in  the  fur-seal  industry  a  great  opportunity  to  make 
money.  For  many  years,  under  the  Russian  regime, 
these  islands  had  been  made  to  yield  a  large  revenue  to 
those  who  controlled  the  business,  but  it  remained  for 
the  men  who  formed  this  new  combination  to  make  it 
one  of  the  richest  private  enterprises  that  ever  thrived 
under  this  or  any  other  Government. 

Quietly,  and  before  the  vastness  of  the  undertaking 
became  known,  it  had  passed  into  the  hands  of  men  who 
knew  how  to  manipulate  it,  and  for  a  period  of  twenty 
years,  millions  of  dollars  were  made  and  many  men  be- 
came millionaires.  Nor  did  the  avarice  of  the  combina- 
tion stop  here.  Trading  posts  were  established  all  along 
the  southern  coast,  and  within  a  short  time,  upon  the 
banks  of  every  stream  of  any  importance  that  pours 
its  waters  into  Bering  Sea,  a  trading  post  was  stationed, 
and  a  sharp,  shrewd  frontiersman,  in  the  employ  cf  this 
compp.ny,  was  there  to  trade  his  wares  to  the  natives  in 
exchange  for  furs. 

It  is  reasonable  to  suppose  that  a  combination  which 
had  the  foresight  and  tact  to  secure  from  a  great  Govern- 
ment the  monopoly  of  so  rich  a  franchise,  would  also 
be  able  to  absolutely  control  all  the  territory  it  sought 
to  encompass  from  the  encroachments  of  competition. 
During  the  entire  time  that  the  company  held  possession 


— i^ /:-., 


TTTT- 


111! 


it 


ilt    ! 


t 


ALASKA 


of  this  lease,  it  took  care  that  the  impression  should  pre- 
vail that  Alaska  was  good  for  naught  save  the  production 
of  fur-bearing  animals.  In  doing  this  it  used  the  strategy 
which  other  business  corporations  would  be  likely  to  use 
to  protect  their  own  interests. 

But  the  eyes  of  an  adventurous  world  are  never  long 
blinded,  and  during  the  last  years  in  which  they  con- 
trolled this  lease  the  company  was  charged  with  every 
conceivable  crime,  and  was  constantly  obliged  to  defend 
itself  against  charges  of  mistreatment  of  natives.  Invest- 
igation, however,  always  exonerated  them,  and  showed 
that  the  complaints  were  the  outgrowth  of  petty  malice 
on  the  part  of  discharged  employees  or  of  jealousy  among 
rival  fur  dealers  who  were  not  in  the  combination. 

By  the  terms  of  the  lease  it  was  liable  at  any  moment 
to  be  annulled  for  neglect  or  mistreatment  of  natives, 
and  this  would  "  destroy  the  goose  that  laid  the  golden 
^gg-"  Knowledge  of  the  business  methods  of  these  men 
will  effectually  dispel  any  suspicion  that  they  would,  by 
word  or  deed,  commit  an  offence  that  would  destroy  the 
source  of  so  vast  a  revenue. 

But  there  came  a  time  when  the  grip  that  this  company 
held  upon  Alaska  must  be  relaxed,  and  the  spring  of  1890 
saw  the  lease  of  the  fur-seal  islands  pass  into  the  hands 
of  the  North  American  Commercial  Company. 

The  whole  southern  coast  was  invaded  by  the  new 
combination,  which  established  trading  posts  at  every 
point  that  promised  business  with  the  natives.  With 
the  advent  of  the  new  company,  a  monthly  mail  route, 
for  seven  months  of  the  year,  was  opened  from  Sitka  to 
Unalaska,  and  post-offices  were  established  at  different 


i'l.. 


HISTORY  9 

points,  thus  affording  an  opportunity  to  reach  sections 
of  the  country  that  theretofore  had  been  practically 
unknown. 

While  the  extension  of  the  mail  service  has  not  yet  re- 
sulted in  the  building  up  of  any  considerable  towns  or 
villages,  the  effect  has  been  to  open  communication  be- 
tween the  southern  coast  of  Alaska  and  the  outside  world. 

The  census  of  1890  gave  the  white  population  at  4300, 
but  during  the  last  nine  years  these  numbers  have  been 
largely  augmented,  and  it  is  safe  to  say  that  the  white 
population  will  now  aggregate  20,000.  Since  that  date, 
also,  the  mining  interests  of  the  Territory  have  largely 
increased,  especially  in  the  interior,  and  with  the  recent 
discoveries  of  gold  in  the  Yukon  region  the  country  has 
grown  with  great  rapidity. 

The  government  of  Alaska,  covering  the  period  from 
its  acquisition  to  the  year  1884,  was  more  of  a  military 
form  than  otherwise.  The  only  officers  stationed  in  the 
Territory  were  those  belonging  to  the  customs  service. 
It  was  their  duty  to  see  that  any  infringement  of  the 
laws,  as,  for  instance,  smuggling  liquor  into  the  Terri- 
tory, or  selling  the  same  to  Indians  or  white  men,  was 
corrected ;  and,  if  necessary,  they  invoked  the  aid  of  the 
military  or  naval  force. 

About  the  year  1880,  the  white  residents  of  South-east 
Alaska  began  to  discuss  the  feasibility  of  securing  some 
sort  of  civil  government  for  the  Territory.  And  in  the 
summer  of  188 1  a  convention  was  held  at  Juneau,  which 
resulted  in  the  selection  of  Mottrom  D.  Ball  as  a  dele- 
gate to  Congress.  The  following  winter  he  appeared  in 
Washington,  presented  his  credentials,  and  asked  to  be 


m. 


I« 


ill 


;     I 


1.1: 


ii!! 


10 


ALASKA 


recognised  as  a  delegate  from  the  Territory  of  Alaska. 
Further  than  to  attract  some  attention  to  the  condition 
of  its  affairs,  Mr.  Ball's  visit  to  Washington  was  of  no 
great  value,  for  he  was  not  permitted  to  take  his  seat. 
Still,  the  wedge  had  been  applied  to  the  encasement  of 
the  difificulties  that  encompassed  Alaska,  and  the  light 
of  intelligent  investigation  was  dawning  on  her  horizon. 
During  the  next  session  of  Congress,  various  bills  were 
introduced  looking  to  the  passage  of  laws  that  would  give 
to  Alaska  some  semblance  of  a  civil  government. 

In  1883,  Senator  Benjamin  Harrison  introduced  a  bill, 
which  became  a  law  the  following  summer.     It  is  called 

The  Organic  Act  of  Alaska,"  and  provides  for  the  ap- 
po.ntment  of  a  governor,  district  judge,  clerk  of  the 
court,  marshal-  collector,  and  four  United  States  commis- 
sioners, one  of  whom  is  to  reside  in  each  of  the  principal 
towns  of  the  Territory,  the  other  ofificers  to  reside  at  Sitka, 
which,  by  this  act,  was  made  the  temporary  capital ;  and 
all  these  officers  were  to  be  appointed  by  the  President. 

This  act,  though  very  defective  when  viewed  by  the 
light  of  the  past  fourteen  years,  was  still  a  step  in  the 
direction  of  a  civil  government. 

Alaska  is  essentially  a  prohibition  country.  It  pro- 
hibits the  cutting  of  timber,  and  the  exporting  of  the 
same  out  of  the  Territory ;  it  prohibits  the  killing  of  fur 
seal,  except  under  certain  restrictions,  which  give  to  a 
company  the  exclusive  control  of  the  same;  and  until  the 
passage  of  the  law  of  March  3,  1899,  it  prohibited  the 
sale  or  manufacture  of  whiskey  in  the  Territory,  though 
previous  to  that  date  it  could  be  had  in  almost  any  village 
or  hamlet  within  its  borders;  and  notwithstanding  this 


HISTOR Y 


II 


absolute  prohibition,  the  Government  saw  fit  to  collect 
an  internal-revenue  tax  from  all  persons  having  it  for  sale. 
The  governor  was  permitted  to  use  his  discretion  as  to 
whom  he  would  grant  a  license. 

The  attempt  on  the  part  of  the  Government  to  restrain 
this  traffic  in  Alaska  proved  to  be  a  ludicrous  farce,  be- 
cause of  the  wholly  inadequate  means  at  the  disposal  of 
the  officers  whose  duty  it  was  to  execute  the  hiws. 

This  condition  of  afTairs  culminated  in  the  passage  of  a 
law  on  March  3,  1899,  providing  for  the  selling  of  intoxi- 
cating liquors  in  Alaska,  and  a  license  to  be  granted  to 
any  person  by  order  of  the  district  judge  when  a  majority 
of  the  white  male  residents  over  the  age  of  eighteen  years, 
within  two  miles  of  the  proposed  saloon,  shall  have  signed 
a  petition  therefor ;  but  the  license  shall  not  be  issued  for 
a  period  to  exceed  one  year  at  a  time. 

The  fee  for  a  wholesale  license  shall  be  $2000  per  year ; 
for  a  retail  license  when  the  population  is  over  1500, 
$1500  per  year;  in  settlements  of  1000  inhabitants, 
$1000;  and  in  those  of  less  than  1000  inhabitants,  $500 
per  year. 

Druggists  may  keep  liquor  for  sale  and  for  compound- 
ing of  prescriptions  without  paying  a  license,  but  can  sell 
only  upon  a  prescription  of  a  reputable  physician. 

As  there  is  but  one  district  judge  in  all  Alaska,  who  is 
located  at  Sitka,  and  as  liquor  cannot  be  sold  until  after 
a  license  has  been  issued,  it  is  plain  to  be  seen  that  an 
applicant  for  a  license  for  carrying  on  business  in  the 
western  part  or  interior  of  Alaska  may  not  secure  the 
same  for  several  months  after  application  is  made.  In- 
deed the  period  of  the  year  for  which  it  may  have  been 


U\ 


\i'- 


.n 


'til 


''■^ilfi 


ll;|Hi 


\- 11 


"' 


lit 


1 


•'iL. 


12 


ALASKA 


granted  is  liable  to  have  expired  before  it  reaches  him. 
As  a  fine  and  imprisonment  are  the  penalty  for  selling 
liquor  without  a  license,  the  revenue  arising  from  the 
business  is  apt  to  prove  insufficient  to  compensate  him 
for  any  infraction  of  the  liquor  law. 

From  the  earliest  settlement  of  Russian  America  down 
through  the  years  since  the  purchase  by  the  United 
States,  the  liquor  question  has  overshadowed  every 
other,  and  the  sturdy  miners  and  those  following  other 
pursuits,  and  especially  the  missionary  people,  have  been 
in  constant  anxiety  as  to  the  erfect  unexecuted  liquor 
laws  would  have  upon  the  native  population. 

The  visit  to  Alaska  of  Assistant  Secretary  of  the 
Treasury  Hamlin,  in  1894,  resulted  in  sending  into  the 
waters  of  South-east  Alaska  additional  revenue  cutters 
for  the  purpose  of  suppressing  the  smuggling  of  whiskey 
from  British  Columbia,  and  although  they  have  patrolled 
the  waters  diligently  and  sent  officers  ashore  for  the  pur- 
pose of  intercepting  cargoes  of  liquor  known  to  have  been 
shipped  into  the  Territory  by  small  sloops,  the  vigilance 
of  the  search  has  as  yet  been  rewarded  by  the  capture  of 
but  a  very  small  portion  of  the  amount  smuggled. 

The  nature  of  the  country  is  such  that  its  many  intri- 
cate and  winding  channels  afford  most  favourable  oppor- 
tunities for  the  smuggling  of  liquor  into  the  territory, 
and  it  is  doubtful  if  any  rules  could  be  adopted,  even  to 
the  regular  patrolling  of  its  waters  by  Government  vessels, 
that  would  prevent  the  traffic. 

The  impossibility  of  suppressing  this  traffic  became  so 
apparent  that  the  best  and  most  respected  citizens  of  the 
Territory  united  in  the  opinion  that  the  only  way  to  regu- 


^WM 


■i 


HISTORY 


J3 


late  the  trade  was  to  have  a  license  law.  Such  being 
now  the  case,  the  men  who  pay  for  the  privilege  of  carry- 
ing on  the  business  will  see  that  only  those  who  are 
legally  authorised  are  permitted  to  do  so.  This  will 
suppress  the  dangerous  element  known  as  "  boot-leg" 
venders,  who  sell  liquor  by  the  pint  or  quart  to  the 
natives,  and  many  such  evils  which  formerly  existed  will 
by  this  means  be  effectually  suppressed. 

In  1888,  the  Democrats  of  Alaska  formed  a  party  organ- 
isation and  sent  two  delegates  to  the  Democratic  National 
Convention.  These  delegates  were  permitted  to  take 
their  seats,  and  this  was  the  first  representation  of  the 
Territory  by  her  citizens. 

In  the  fall  of  1S89  the  Republicans  organised  and  held 
a  convention  at  Juneau,  and  adopted  a  memorial  to  be 
presented  to  members  of  Congress.  The  author  of  this 
book  drafted  the  memorial,  and  was  delegated  to  proceed 
to  Washington  and  present  it  to  both  houses  of  Congress. 
He  was  also  chosen  a  member  of  the  National  Republi- 
can Committee  from  Alaska. 

The  memorial  referred  to  represented  clearly  the  con- 
dition of  affairs  in  the  Territory,  and  is  here  given  in  full, 
as  follows : 


\  m 


\  sf' 


m 


;u 


'  ■  1. 


m 


'  :i 


:  f1' 


To  the  Republican  Members  of  the   United  States  Senate  and 
House  of  Representatives  : 

We,  the  Republicans  of  Alaska  in  convention  assembled,  re- 
spectfully represent  to  your  honourable  body,  that  on  this  the 
fifth  day  of  November,  1889,  a  day  when  the  Republicans  in 
the  various  States  and  Territories  of  the  Union  are  contesting 
for  the  principles  of  our  great  party,  we  are  denied  that  sacred 
privilege. 


>iEI"    in 


, 


ni! 


i  :  il 


i 


i 


i  !l 


i 


14 


A  LAS  A' A 


Among  the  great  Territories  of  the  west,  we  alone  stand  a 
monument  representing  complete  and  utter  isolation  and  non- 
representation.  With  an  area  sufficient  to  form  a  dozen  States, 
with  resources  unnumbered  and  unlimited,  with  no  manner  of 
expressing  our  just  needs  or  to  demand  our  just  rights,  with  a 
population  of  upwards  of  ten  thousand  whites  and  fifty  thou- 
sand natives,  among  whom  are  many  intelligent  and  industri- 
ous, we  come  to  you  for  relief. 

With  no  means  of  acquiring  title  to  property  in  which  our 
capital  is  invested  and  our  labor  is  expended,  we  ask  the 
passage  of  such  laws  as  will  afford  us  relief  in  this  direction. 

With  many  of  our  people  desirous  of  securing  land  upon 
which  they  can  engage  in  farming,  stock-raising,  dairying,  and 
other  pursuits  of  husbandry,  we  ask  that  the  homestead  laws 
be  extended  in  such  manner  as  will  open  up  this  domain  for 
that  class  of  our  citizens. 

With  hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars  invested  in  the  fish 
industry,  we  ask  the  passage  of  such  laws  as  will  secure  titles 
to  their  property,  anu  encourage  the  development  of  one  of 
our  greatest  resources,  and  one  which  is  fast  becoming  valu- 
able to  the  nation  at  large. 

With  vast  forests  extending  throughout  the  Territory,  we  ask 
that  the  present  laws  relative  to  the  cutting  of  timber  be  so 
modified  as  to  allow  it  to  be  used  for  domestic  purposes,  by  the 
canneries  in  the  packing  and  exportation  of  their  fish,  and  by 
parties  actually  engaged  in  n  anufacturing  enterprises  within 
the  Territory,  and  the  exportation  of  furniture  and  other 
wooden-wares,  etc.,  manufactured  from  our  native  timber. 

The  judiciary  of  Alaska  is  anomalous,  lying  between  and 
dependent  upon  the  general  laws  of  the  United  States  and  the 
general  laws  of  the  State  of  Oregon,  and  having  no  true  l)asis 
from  which  it  can  be  interpreted.  Therefore  we  ask  that  a 
code  of  laws  be  enacted  for  the  District  of  Alaska,  suitable  to 
our  wants  and  circumstances  and  made  applicable  to  our 
growing  industries  and  communities. 

To-day  Alaska  stands  alone  among  the  great  Territories  of 
the  west  without  a  representative  upon  the  floor  of  Congress, 
and  we  deem  it  unjust   that   a  longer  denial   of   the   rights 


•'(111 


HISTORY 


15 


accorded  other  portions  of  our  country  should  be  imposed 
upon  us. 

In  presenting  this  memorial  'o  your  honourable  body  we 
humbly  ask  your  unanimous  aid  in  our  behalf,  and  we  will 

ever  pray,  etc. 

C.  F.  Depue,  Chairman. 

C.  S.  Blackett,  Secretary. 

The  next  Republican  National  Convention  allowed 
Alaska  the  same  representation  as  other  Territories,  and 
the  Democratic  National  Convention  followed  with  a  like 
action. 

During  the  winter  of  1889-90,  General  George  W.  Gar- 
side  and  the  author  laboured  with  both  houses  of  Congress 
to  secure  the  passage  of  such  laws  as  were  demanded  by 
the  memorial ;  their  efforts  were  so  far  successful  that  the 
House  Committee  on  Territories  unanimously  adopted 
the  bill  which  on  the  3rd  of  March,  1890,  became  a  law. 

While  this  bill  did  not  by  any  means  meet  the  needs 
of  the  Territory,  it  was  thought  best  to  urge  its  passage, 
because  the  situation  resolved  itself  into  a  choice  of  this 
or  nothing. 

Until  the  passage  of  the  bill  extending  the  homestead 
laws  to  Alaska  on  May  14,  1898,  the  only  way  by  which 
title  to  land  could  be  secured  in  Alaska,  except  under  the 
general  mining  laws  of  the  country,  was  under  the  aot  of 
March  3,  1890;  by  it  individuals  or  companies  may  pur- 
chase land  at  $2. 50  per  acre,  for  business  or  manufacturing 
purposes;  and  residents  of  towns  may  acquire  title  to 
their  lots. 

In  the  fall  of  1890,  the  people's  convention  held  in 
Juneau  selected  Captain  James  Carroll,  the  well-known 
master  of  the  tourist  steamer  Queen,  to  proceed  to  Wash- 


ill-'   \\ 


M 


1^                    ,   ■- 

(i 

( .   :.  :i| 
I, 


ill 


.;!••:, 

1 


i6 


ALASA'A 


ington,  for  the  purpose  of  securing  legislation.  It  was 
largely  through  his  efforts  that  the  bill  referred  to  became 
a  law. 

It  is  worthy  of  mention,  in  connection  with  Captain 
Carroll's  efforts  in  behalf  of  Alaska,  that  when  he  arrived 
in  Washington  he  proposed,  should  Congress  not  be  dis- 
posed to  pass  the  laws  needed  for  the  protection  of  its 
citizens,  that  he  was  ready  to  purchase  the  Territory  of 
the  Government,  and  was. also  prepared  to  close  the 
transaction  for  the  sum  of  $20,000,000  at  any  time  the 
Government  would  accept  it.  This  proposition,  so  char- 
acteristic of  the  man,  was  looked  upon  by  many  in  the 
light  of  a  joke ;  yet  it  was  meant  seriously  and  had  the 
effect  of  opening  the  eyes  of  many  public  men  to  the  value 
of  this  vast  new  country. 

On  May  14,  1898,  Congress  passed  a  bill  extending  the 
homestead  laws  to  Alaska,  and  the  rights  incident  thereto, 
including  the  right  to  acquire  title,  through  soldiers'  addi- 
tional homestead  rights,  to  surveyed  and  unsurveyed 
lands,  but  the  surveys  must  be  made  at  the  expense  of 
the  applicant. 

Homesteads  may  be  taken  and  held  by  a  party  making 
actual  settlement  and  improvement,  but  cannot  be  en- 
tered or  patented  until  the  public  surveys  have  been 
regularly  extended  over  them. 

The  limit  of  a  homestead  is  fixed  at  eighty  acres,  and 
when  taken  on  any  navigable  water  it  shall  not  include 
land  lying  between  high-  and  low-water  mark.  Neither 
can  a  homestead  exceed  eighty  rods  along  the  shore  of 
any  navigable  water,  and  si.xty  feet  wide  extending  along 
the  shore  line  shall  be  reserved  as  a  public  highway,  and 


4 

1 


I 


^i 


HisTOR  y 


7 


this  reservation  shall  be  deducted  from  the  eighty  acres 
allowed  as  a  homestead. 

Land  districts  have  been  established  with  offices  at 
Sitka,  Nulato,  Circle  City,  and  Peavy. 

Alaska  has  no  legislature  or  officers  elected  by  the 
people  at  large,  but  is  treated  as  a  District,  similar,  per- 
haps, to  the  District  of  Columbia,  where  Congress  directly 
governs  affairs. 

The  passage  of  the  Organic  Act  of  1884  brought  into 
the  Territory  as  Government  officials  many  men  from  dif- 
ferent States  of  the  Union,  most  of  whom  were  men  of 
character  and  ability.  In  their  official  capacities,  they 
have  had  excellent  opportunities  to  familiarise  themselves 
with  the  vast  richness  of  the  Territory,  and  the  close  of 
their  terms  of  office  has  seen  most  of  them  earnest 
defenders  of  its  interest. 

Perhaps  the  most  enthusiastic  of  its  advocates  is  A.  P. 
Swineford,  who  was  appointed  Governor  of  Alaska  by 
President  Cleveland  during  his  first  term  of  office.  His 
warm  espousal  and  radical  views  of  the  resources  of  the 
Territory  attracted  a  great  deal  of  attention  to  Alaska. 

He  was  charged  with  exaggeration  and  deceit  in  his 
statements  of  the  resources  and  future  possibilities  of  the 
country  in  his  reports  to  the  Government,  but  the  de- 
velopments of  the  past  few  years  have  demonstrated  that 
his  pictures  were  not  overdrawn. 

In  the  fall  of  1894  a  people's  convention  was  held  at 
Juneau,  and  a  memorial  to  Congress,  similar  to  the  one 
adopted  by  the  convention  of  1889,  and  which  the  author 
of  this  book  also  had  the  honour  of  drafting,  was  unanim- 
ously passed. 


■:  I 


«i| 


■n 


III 

Ml 


4 

!  4 


■1 


ri 


■r  h 


ilii 


iiiii 


i 


i8 


ALASh'A 


It  was  suggested  by  some  of  the  delegates  to  select  as 
representative  to  Congress  Miss  Kate  l'"ield,  whose  cham- 
pionship of  the  Territory  had  been  so  marked  that  upon 
every  opportunity  offered  she  urged  Congress  to  do  its 
duty  and  relieve  the  inhabitants  of  their  burden.  That 
she  thereby  gained  the  admiration  of  Alaska's  citizens  is 
proved  by  this  suggestion,  but  deUcacy  lest  the  action  be 
regarded  in  the  light  of  a  burlesque,  and  the  fact  that  no 
opportunity  was  allowed  to  ascertain  if  the  honour  would 
be  accepted,  finally  caused  the  suggestion  to  be  aban- 
doned, and  Mr.  Thomas  S.  Nowell  was  unanimously 
chosen  delegate  to  Congress. 

Mr.  Nowell's  large  minini,^  interests  in  Alaska,  and  his 
extensive  acquaintance  among  members  of  Congress  and 
ofificials  in  Washington,  placed  him  in  excellent  position 
to  command  respect  and  wield  influence ;  and  but  for  the 
fact  that  the  session  was  a  short  one,  Alaska  would  in  all 
probability  have  been  recognised  and  Mr.  Nowell  seated 
as  its  first  delegate. 

On  March  3,  '  b'99.  Congress  passed  a  law  known  as  "  A 
Code  of  Cripiiral  Procedure,"  which  provides  for  the 
punishment  ci  crimes,  and  exacts  a  license  of  every  indi- 
vidual or  corporation  carrying  on  business  of  whatsoever 
character  within  the  District  of  Alaska. 

Only  those  who  have  had  experience  in  the  matter  can 
realise  the  difficulty  of  securing  legislation  for  Alaska. 
She  labours  under  the  exceptional  disadvantage  of  having 
no  one  to  whom  she  has  a  right  to  appeal  for  aid. 

The  members  of  Congress  from  other  States  and  Terri- 
:ories  have  their  own  constituencies  to  look  after;  and 
the  demands  upon  their  time  by  legitimate  claimants  are 


^ 


HISTORY 


19 


SO  many  and  so  great  that  they  can  hardly  be  expected 
to  labour  for  the  interests  of  a  country  so  remote  and  of 
which  they  know  so  Httle. 

The  next  few  years  must  bring  about  great  changes  in 
the  governmental  affairs  of  Alaska.  Even  now  several 
propositions  are  under  consideration  looking  to  the 
formation  of  new  Territories.  Should  a  separation  ever 
occur,  Southeast  Alaska  as  far  north  as  Sitka  is  peculiarly 
set  apf.rl  by  its  natural  construction  for  a  new  Territory. 
But  in  our  opinion  Alaska  should  always  have  been  held 
as  a  reservation  or  public  domain  where  enterprises  un- 
fettered and  untrammelled  by  taxation  could  have  full 
sway.  Among  the  residents  there  is  a  widespread  feel- 
ing opposed  to  territorial  organisatioi  on  account  of 
a  dread  of  taxes  and  the  expense  of  maintaining  a  form 
of  government. 

The  area  is  so  vast  and  the  settlements  are  so  widely 
separated  that  it  is  doubtful  if  a  system  of  voting  could 
be  devised  that  would  result  in  a  fair  expression  of  the 
voice  of  the  people.  The  peculiar  climatic  conditions  of 
the  country,  its  remoteness  from  civilisation,  and  the 
transient  character  of  the  inhabitants  are  strong  argu- 
ments against  the  organisation  of  the  District  of  Alaska 
into  Territories. 

But  if  a  law  were  passed  granting  Alaska  a  delegate  to 
Congress,  appointed  by  the  President  for  a  term  of  four 
years,  and  with  the  same  privileges  accorded  delegates 
from  other  Territories,  all  interests  could  be  subserved 
without  the  enormous  expenses  attendant  upon  carrying 
on  the  machinery  of  territorial  government. 

Such  a  provision  would  give  Alaska  a  representative  on 


*! 


(  W 


in 


1 1 


r"!f 


|iii      I' 


it       '. 


20 


ALA  SIC  A 


the  floor  of  Congress  who  would  be  authorised  to  act  for 
the  Territory,  and  whose  business  it  would  be  to  secure 
needed  legislation.  He  should  be  an  actual  resident,  and 
there  are  many  men  within  the  Territory  who  would  make 
creditable  representatives,  and  whose  knowledge  of  its 
requirements  would  be  of  inestimable  value. 


\    \ 


! 


11    !| 


,  .1 


■nu.u 


t  for 

cure 

and 

Tiake 

f  its 


CHAPTER  II 


TOPOGRAPHY 


THE  elements  of  grandeur,  weirdness,  solemnity,  and 
vastness  enter,  in  a  large  degree,  into  a  topograph- 
ical description  of  Alaska.  Its  many  interesting  features 
hold  the  mind  spellbound  with  awe  in  their  presence  and 
fill  the  memory  with  undying  wonder.  We  behold  them 
in  the  labyrinth  of  verdant  islands  that  diversifies  the 
coast  line;  the  swelling  plains  of  the  interior;  gigantic 
mountain  peaks,  snow-covered  and  hoary  with  age ;  the 
mighty  glaciers — vast  rivers  of  ice  which  for  centuries 
have  slowly  forged  their  way  to  the  abyss  of  the  ocean, 
and  which,  before  many  more  centuries,  will  have  entirely 
diiappearcd,  .so  that  future  ages  will  know  them  only  by 
the  records  of  their  awful  sublimity  ;  the  active  volcanoes 
rearing  their  smoking,  often  fiery,  crests  among  the 
mountain  peaks;  and  the  Aalleys,  great  and  small,  rich 
in  natural  resources  of  many  kinds,  which  intersect  the 
interior  country  in  all  directions. 

Alaska  is  naturally  divided  into  two  great  divsions — 
South-east  and  Western  Alaska.  Mt.  St.  Elias  marks  the 
dividing  line  between  Western  Alaska  and  South-east 
Alaska,  at  141  degrees  west  longitude,  running  north 
from  this  point  to  the  Arctic  Ocean.     For  a  number  of 

21 


I': 


t  ii 


ll'(-. 

....          [ 

I 


as 


ALASA'A 


iii   I  i! 


years  it  was  supposed  that  Mt.  St.  Elias  was  within 
American  territory,  but  late  surveys  show  most  of  its 
base  to  be  just  over  the  line  in  the  Canadian  Dominion. 

Many  of  the  islands  in  the  inland,  or  tourist  route, 
have  the  appearance  of  half-submerged  mountains,  and 
water  two  hundred  fathoms  deep  is  often  fou  id  'vhcre 
the  breadth  of  the  channel  can  be  almost  spcunc  '  the 
length  of  the  ship. 

Fiords  are  numerous,  some  of  them  winding  in  serpent- 
ine fashioii  a  distance  of  twenty  or  more  miles  into  the 
islands  or  mainland.  The  great  rivers  of  the  interior 
drain  immense  valleys,  with  mountain  ranges  everywhere 
visible.  Lakes  are  abundant,  often  surrounded  by  tundra, 
or  swamps,  very  frequently  impenetrable,  covered  with 
brush,  rank  grasses,  and  other  vegetation.  After  the  in- 
terior is  reached — and  by  this  is  meant  after  the  coast 
mountains  are  crossed,  in  many  places  only  twenty  or 
thirty  miles  from  the  coast — the  soft  earth  and  luxurian; 
vegetation  of  the  coast  country  give  place  to  fro;  ^n 
ground,  and  lichens  and  mosses  on  the  mountai!»  sides 
and  in  the  valleys.  But  though  the  vast  plains  of  the 
interior  are  completely  within  the  grasp  of  the  ice  king 
for  eight  months  of  the  year,  with  the  advent  of  the  long 
days  of  summer,  water  runs,  flowers  bloom,  and  grasses 
spring  into  life  as  if  by  magic,  and  their  growth  is  at  once 
luxuriant  and  rapid,  even  though  in  many  places  the  -^il 
is  never  thawed  beyond  a  few  inches  below  the  surij-,   , 

In  the  far  north  at  Point  Rarrow  and  at  St.  MichatL. 
wells  have  been  dug  sixty  f  t  through  frozen  ground, 
f.nd  the  same  condition  ex  j^ts  on  the  Yukon  and  its 
tributaries. 


i  it! 


TOPOGRAPHY 


23 


The  Aleutian  Islands,  stretching  far  out  into  the  North 
Pacific,  surrounded  by  rocks  scarred  and  battered  for  ages 
by  the  boisterous  waves,  are  without  trees,  but  they  are 
thickly  covered  with  a  low  growth  of  luxuriant  vegeta- 
tion. Between  the  mountains  and  the  sea  are  small 
plateaus  or  prairies,  with  soil  enriched  by  vegetable 
mould  and  suitable  for  domestic  gardening.  Grass 
grows  abundantly  here,  sometimes  to  a  height  of  six  feet. 
It  is  cured  by  the  natives,  to  feed  a  few  small  Siberian 
cattle,  and  they  also  braid  it  into  useful  and  often  orna- 
mental articles,  such  as  baskets,  hats,  and  mats.  The 
growth  of  this  grass  is  so  abundant  and  prolific  that  in- 
vestigators have  predicted  that  this  Aleutian  country 
will  yet  furnish  the  Pacific  coast  with  its  best  butter 
and  cheese;  while  botanists  agree  that  the  southern 
coast  country  of  Alaska  abounds  in  grasses,  and  has  a 
climate  perhaps  as  well  adapted  for  haying  as  the  coast  of 
Oregon. 

The  Russians  esteem  Cook  Inlet,  which  lies  to  the 
north  of  Kadiak,  to  be  the  pleasantest  portion  of  Alaska 
in  the  summer  season.  Its  skies  are  nearly  always  bright, 
as  stretching  far  inland  in  a  north-easterly  direction  it  is 
out  of  the  region  of  fogs,  which  so  frequently  prevail  on 
the  coast.  Its  shores  are  pleasant,  being  well  wooded 
and  watered.  Gold  has  been  found  in  large  quantities, 
and  recent  reports  tell  of  still  richer  placer  deposits  hav- 
ing been  discovered  on  the  inlet  itself  and  on  the  Kakni 
River,  which  debouches  into  Cook  Inlet. 

The  guiding  landmarks  of  Alaska  may  be  said  to  be  its 
grand  mountains,  volcanic  peaks,  and  mammoth  glaciers. 
Mt.  St.  Elias  lifts  its  ermine  top  over  18.000  feet  above 


:i 


/! 


'f 


:     f 


it;:; 


1     1 


li|M: 


^MM 


1 1 


24 


ALASKA 


mti  li 


the  level  of  the  sea.  In  the  distance  it  seems  to  have  its 
base  on  the  very  shore  of  the  ocean,  although  in  reality 
sixty  miles  away.  From  the  south  side  of  Mt.  St.  Elias 
eleven  glaciers  slowly  make  their  way  oceanward,  one  of 
^'^  "m,    named   Agassiz    Glacier,   being   estimated  to  be 

cnty  miles  in  width  and  fifty  in  length,  covering  an 
area  of  one  thousand  square  miles. 

Mt.  Fairweather,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  south 
of  Mt.  St.  Elias,  is  about  15,^00  ic.ct  high;  Mt,  Crillon, 
15,000;  Mt.  Perouse,  14,300;  and  Mt.  Wrangell  is  over 
19,000. 

There  are  thirty  or  more  volcanoes  in  Alaska,  six  or 
eight  of  which  are  in  an  active  state  of  eruption.  Shi- 
shaldin,  which  is  9000  feet  high,  is  burning,  and  its  smoke 
may  always  be  seen  in  clear  weather.  It  is  situated 
on  Unimak  Island,  near  the  pass  of  the  same  name 
usually  followed  by  vessels  in  entering  Bering  Sea. 
Pavlof,  about  one  hundred  miles  to  the  eastward,  is 
another  smoking  mountain  ;  the  glow  from  its  crater  may 
be  seen  reflected  against  the  heavens.  Mt.  Makushin,  at 
the  eastern  extremity  of  Unalaska  Island,  is  about  5500 
feet  in  height,  and  gives  evidence  of  being  more  or  less 
active;  while  the  tops  of  Pogrumnoi  and  Shishaldin,  on 
Unimak  Island,  serve  as  beacons  at  night  or  in  foggy 
weather  for  vessels  on  their  way  into  Bering  Sea,  as  they 
can  be  seen  distinctly,  towering  above  the  dense  atmos- 
phere. Akutan  Island  has  a  smoking  volcano,  4000  feet 
high ;  and  on  Atka  Island  there  are  several  volcanoes, 
from  3000  to  4000  feet  in  height,  which  occasionally  emit 
smoke. 

Eighty  miles  west  of  Unalaska,    Mt.   Bogoston  is  in 


I 


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^filinyi 


Pi. ; ;    J 


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ft-  I 


f'i: 


^  I 


m 


m 

'■-. 

*■     ■ 

MOUNT  BOQOSTON  VOLCANO. 


Ut} 


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■    I 


!  li 


ill 


II 


w 

iiillii 


I 


con! 

esqi 

IV 

Am 

of  1 

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Wr 

mil 

( 

wh 

eig 

Pa 

ne: 

iric 

ho 

tal 

be 

pr 
ou 


jj 

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i  ]:. 

i 

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1 

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al 
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g' 

ti 

St 

n 


o 

13 


VM. 


uLik 


TOPOGRAPHY 


25 


constant  eruption.  It  is  the  most  remarkable  and  pictur- 
esque volcano  in  all  Alaska. 

Mt.  Logan,  the  highest  known  mountain  in  North 
America,  unless  it  may  be  Mt.  Wrangell,  has  an  elevation 
of  19,000  feet.  Some  surveyors  claim  that  Wrangell  is  a 
loftier  peak  than  Logan,  but  its  exact  height  is  unknown. 
Wrangell  is  clearly  within  Alaska,  but  Logan  is  a  few 
miles  east  of  the  line  in  Canadian  territor". 

One  of  the  most  interesting  landmarks  in  all  Alaska  is 
what  is  known  as  Priest  Rock.  It  stands  seventy-five  or 
eighty  feet  high  in  Bering  Sea  just  to  the  west  of  Unalga 
Pass.  Probably  no  landmark  is  sought  with  greater  eager- 
ness by  vessels  navigating  Alaskan  waters  than  this  re- 
markable structure  of  nature,  standing  out  against  the 
horizon  with  such  clearness  that  the  mariner  never  mis- 
takes his  position  when  once  it  is  sighted.  It  could  not 
be  better  named,  for  its  outlines  perfectly  resemble  a 
priest  whose  arms  are  plainly  seen  beneath  a  rocky  robe, 
outstretched  as  if  in  benediction. 

In  Ikhm  Canal  on  the  eastern  side  of  Alaska,  standing 
almost  in  the  middle  of  the  channel,  is  another  interesting 
work  of  nature.  It  is  a  rock  rising  to  a  height  of  over 
one  hundred  feet,  having  a  base  of  about  fifty  feet  square, 
gradually  tapering  tov/ards  the  top.  It  was  discovered 
by  Vancouver,  and  named  New  Eddystone  Rock  after 
the  rock  near  the  south  coast  of  England  upon  which 
stands  the  famous  Eddystone  lighthouse  known  to 
mariners   the   world    over. 

Hot  mineral  springs  abound  all  over  the  various  island 
groups  of  Alaska,  especially  those  stretching  from  the 
Alaskan   peninsula  westward  towards  Asia.     About  fif- 


I' J' 31 


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t.    11 


i    1 


ii: 


t  i      ! 


26 


ALASKA 


1!        <;!!:;:    I 


iii'J       -! 


ii 


!P 


teen  miles  south  of  Sitka,  hot  springs  are  also  found, 
which  possess  great  curative  properties.  Consumption, 
scrofula,  syphilitic  diseases,  and  rheumatism  are  common 
among  the  aborigines,  consumption  being  the  most  fatal; 
while  scrofula  prevails  to  a  great  extent,  aggravated,  it  is 
believed,  by  an  almost  exclusive  fish  diet  and  by  rank 
uncleanliness.  Syphilitic  diseases,  the  terrible  heritage 
left  these  natives  as  the  result  of  contact  with  sailors  in 
the  early  days,  and  augmented  by  uncleanly  habits,  are 
likewise  common.  These  diseases  are  said  to  yield 
readily  to  the  treatment  afforded  by  these  natural  health 
restorers,  the  hot  springs,  and  it  is  claimed  they  can,  to 
all  appearances,  be  entirely  eradicated  from  the  system 
after  a  few  weeks'  bathing  and  drinking  the  waters 
of  these  springs.  They  all  possess  similar  properties, 
being  strongly  impregnated  with  iron,  sulphur,  and  mag- 
nesia. 

During  the  Russian  occupancy  bath-houses  were  built 
at  Sitka  springs,  and  bathing  tanks  constructed,  and 
natives  and  whites  from  this  portion  of  the  territory 
frequently  visited  them. 

Hot  springs  are  also  found  near  Loring,  and  others  at 
Hoonah,  these  being  more  patronised,  because  they  are 
nearer  the  settled  portion  of  the  country. 

The  aspect  of  the  country  about  Beiing  Strait  is  mount- 
ainous, but  not  extremely  precipitous.  From  Cape 
Prince  of  Wales,  another  continent,  Asia,  may  be  seen, 
for  the  Siberian  coast  is  plainly  visible.  Citizens  of  the 
United  States  and  the  subjects  of  the  Czar  of  all  the  Rus- 
sias,  metaphorically  speaking,  might  stand  on  their  re- 
spective shores  and  clasp  hands  across  the  narrow  channel 


!'.lUl^ 


)und, 

ttioil, 

mon 

atal ; 

it  is 

rank 

itage 


^llill 


im 


m 


PRIEST  ROCK,  ENTRANCE  TO  BERING  SEA,  NEAR  UNALQA  PASS. 


frf^i 

'  '  « 

I'-'T    ' 

■ 
i 

^K';' 

i   iil 

it.  If 
-  i 


) 

■                 1   ' 

i 

•/'                1 

1                  ' 

IP 


hi! 


i 


TOPOGRAPHY 


27 


called  Bering  Strait,  which  connects  the  waters  of  the 
Arctic  Ocean  with  Bering  Sea. 

This  strait  is  but  forty-eight  miles  wide,  and  the  nar- 
row passage  is  partially  filled  by  Little  and  Big  Diomcdc 
Islands  near  the  middle  of  the  strait.  The  islands  arc 
only  two  miles  apart,  and  the  line  of  demarcation  be- 
tween Alaska  and  Siberia  runs  midway  between  them. 
The  shallow  water  of  Bering  Strait,  averaging  only  about 
twenty-seven  fathoms  in  depth,  and  the  short  distance 
between  the  two  continents,  give  rise  to  interesting 
speculation  concerning  the  connecting  of  the  eastern  and 
western  hemispheres  by  a  railroad  which  would,  literally, 
girdle  the  world.  Fancy  leaving  New  YorV  by  special 
limited  train,  traversing  the  North  American  continent 
longitudinally  to  the  great  Yukon  valley,  then  westward 
to  Bering  Strait,  crossing  it  with  the  trans-Siberian  Rail- 
way as  a  connection,  and  speeding  on  to  St.  Petersburg, 
Paris,  London,  etc.  ;  and  this  is  within  the  realm  of  pos- 
sibility. Engineering  skill  has  made  rapid  progress 
within  a  decade,  and  who  shall  say  what  the  genius  of 
man  aided  by  wonderful  inventions  and  electricity  will 
accomplish ! 

It  will  be  a  physical  impossibility  to  span  Beiii^  .:Strait 
with  a  bridge,  owing  to  the  swift  current  and  the  vast 
quantities  of  ice  which,  in  winter,  are  continually  flowing 
through,  and  which  would  speedily  demolish  such  a 
structure.  It  may  be  possible,  however,  that  the  strait 
could  be  tunnelled,  but  it  is  here  suggested — as  more 
practicable — that  it  could  be  filled  in  with  rock,  allowing 
sufficient  openings  for  the  waters  to  flow  through  and  for 
vessels  to  pass,  thus  forming  an  adamantine  roadway  be- 


':'  \    \ 


m 


I  'f, 


I,   ;. 


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M., 


1 

1 

!l                   1 

'  I'l            i 

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11 

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1  if 


28 


ALASh'A 


tvveen  the  extreme  west  and  east,  as  represented  by  the 
United  States  and  Siberia. 

The  mountains  that  mark  the  westernmost  point  of  the 
continent  at  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  are  rocky  and  barren, 
the  ledges  standing  upon  high  pillars,  with  shattered 
sides  and  uneven  surfaces.  Towards  the  base,  facing 
Bering  Strait,  the  slope  is  gradual,  extending  into  a  low, 
sandy  beach  reaching  out  into  the  strait  a  mile  or  more 
and  then  bearing  to  the  north.  Endless  quantities  of 
rock  could  be  taken  from  these  mountains  of  solid  stone 
and  dumped  into  the  strait,  until  a  roadway  would  rise 
from  the  bottom  of  the  shallow  waters.  The  ^ense,  it 
is   true,  would    be   enormous — and  no  atte  's  here 

made  to  discuss  scientific  difificulties  in  the  way — but  let 
it  be  remembered  that  all  great  engineering  projects  have 
been  first  ridiculed  and  denounced  as  chimerical,  as,  wit- 
ness— the  Suez  Canal,  Nicaragua  Canal,  the  Panama 
Canr.I,  and  other  great  triumphs  of  engineering  skill.  To 
ca''ry  so  gigantic  an  enterprise  to  a  successful  completion, 
unlimited  capital  and  labour  would  be  required.  In  the 
matter  of  labour,  if  white  men  could  not  be  found, 
twenty-five  thousand  Eskimos  from  Alaska  and  Siberia, 
who  are  indefatigable  workers,  could  be  utilised.  And 
should  the  enterprise  be  undertaken  jointly  by  the  Gov- 
ernments of  the  United  States  and  Russia,  the  latter 
would,  no  doubt,  make  use  of  her  convicts,  as  she  is  now 
doing  in  the  construction  of  the  trans-Siberian  Railroad. 

An  all-rail  route  from  the  new  world  to  the  old,  across 
Bering  Strait,  would  be  the  connecting  link  to  weld  the 
nations  together  in  the  development  of  commerce  and  of 
the  untold  riches  of  little-known  portions  of  the  two  vast 


\ 


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J^OrOGRAIHY 


29 


continents.  That  this  would  be  a  mammoth  undertaking 
is  not  denied,  but  its  possibility  cannot  be  questioned. 
It  is  not  all  fanciful — "  the  unsubstantial  pageant  of  a 
dream  " — but  is  rather  the  living,  actual  reality,  that 
before  another  quarter  of  a  century  has  rolled  away  a 
great  international  highway  will  be  opened  up  and  the 
nations  of  the  world  will  become  its  patrons. 

T  le  dangers  and  difficulties  that  formerly  beset  the 
miner  in  his  efforts  to  reach  the  gold  diggings  of  the  in- 
terior from  Lynn  Canal  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Yukon 
have  been  overcome  in  the  past  few  months  by  the  build- 
ing of  a  railroad  from  Skaguay,  called  the  Skaguay  and 
White  Pass  Railway. 

The  extension  of  this  railroad  along  the  valley  of  the 
Yukon,  as  contemplated  by  its  projectors,  is  a  question 
that  the  future  will  have  to  determine.  There  is  no 
doubt  that  the  natural  obstacles  of  the  interior  can  be 
overcome  if  the  commercial  importance  will  justify  the 
expense  that  would  be  incurred. 

Another  interesting  feature  of  railroad  building  in 
Alaska  is  the  organisation  of  a  company  for  the  purpose 
of  constructing  a  railroad  from  a  point  about  sixty  miles 
north  of  St.  Michaels  to  the  Yuko",  River,  at  the  mouth 
of  what  is  known  as  Kaltag  Riv*  1. 

The  survey  runs  from  the  mouth  of  the  Unalaklik 
River,  following  this  stream  along  the  south  bank,  and 
crossing  a  short  divide  to  the  Kaltag  River,  which  stream 
it  follows  to  the  Yukon.  The  distance  from  the  initial 
point  to  its  proposed  terminus  is  only  eighty  miles,  and 
it  has  an  easy  and  natural  grade  the  entire  distance.  The 
route  follows  the  trail  used  by  the  Yukon  River  Indians 


■ 

■  Vi\ 

In 

■  .  ■  ■  '  -,  ^"  ' 

■  ( ■'.  ■' 

(■ 


h 


'i  i 


i-^L  ^ 


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ITT 


3© 


ALASKA 


Hit 


W: 


I 


<i!ii)lii; 


w  i 


for  many  years  in  making  the  overland  journey  to  the 
coast  of  Bering  Sea,  and  by  reference  to  the  map  it  will 
be  seen  that  this  route  saves  over  five  hundred  miles  of 
river  travel. 

The  Yukon  River  at  its  mouth  is  very  shallow,  and  the 
navigation  of  this  stream  for  the  first  four  or  five  hundred 
miles  is  attended  with  great  difficulties  on  account  of  its 
uncertain  channel.  As  all  Yukon  River  boats  start  from 
St.  Michaels,  eighty-five  miles  of  ocean  travel  must  be 
made  from  this  point  to  the  mouth  of  the  river.  There 
are  no  mines  or  important  business  points  from  the  mouth 
of  the  river  to  Nulato,  and  if  this  long  portion  of  the  trip 
could  be  dispensed  with,  it  would  be  a  great  saving  of 
expense. 

The  building  of  this  railroad  would  mean  the  saving  of 
six  or  eight  days  of  travel  to  the  Klondike  after  leaving 
the  steamer  on  the  Bering  Sea  side,  and  undoubtedly 
cheapen  the  cost  of  supplies  at  the  mining  camps,  which 
is  a  matter  of  great  importance. 

Alaska  offers  many  inducements  for  railroad  building. 
The  physical  contour  of  the  country,  especially  in  the 
interior,  presents  few  obstacles,  and  the  numerous  valleys 
afford  natural  avenues  for  the  construction  of  these  great 
highways.  The  many  tributaries  of  the  Yukon  will  yet 
hear  the  snorting  of  the  iron  horse,  and  the  vast  coal 
fields,  mountains  of  silver  and  iron  ore,  as  well  as  many 
other  natural  resources  of  this  country,  will  be  opened 
up  by  the  enterprise  of  the  twentieth  century.  The  in- 
domitable energy  and  power  of  man  will  yet  lay  this  vast 
country  under  tribute  and  cause  it  to  yield  a  golden 
harvest. 


m 


i  1 


ii 

1  m\i 

ijil 

i  iii 

i!h 

i\m 

i   ' 

ii 


-sLki 


TOPOGRAPHY 


3» 


Alaska  is  the  only  frontier  left  in  our  great  country  to- 
day. Though  in  time  it  may  contain  many  thousand 
people,  yet  it  will  never,  on  account  of  its  climatic  con- 
ditions, maintain  a  large  permanent  population.  Towns 
and  villages  may  spring  up,  but  not  one  of  them  will 
develop  into  a  metropolis  of  any  considerable  size,  for  its 
inhabitants  will  always  be  transient.  It  is  a  conspicuous 
fact  that  every  man,  woman,  or  child  who  goes  to  Alaska 
looks  anxiously  forward  to  the  time  when  he  can  return 
to  civilisation. 


i    ■■    ( 


il 


'■('.: 


wm 


;  vi 


I 


■■sal 


Jlht[ 


II 


CHAPTER   III 


CLIMATE  AND   AGRICULTURE 


i 

1 

j      ! 

1 

1 

r   ^i^ii 

.{ 

'' 

THE  beneficent  Japan  current  influences  the  whole 
country,  even  as  far  north  as  the  Kuskoquim  River, 
and  has  th-j  effect  of  soothing  the  cHmate  of  the  North 
Bering  seacoast. 

Precipitation  is  very  great  in  the  southern  coast  country. 
The  air  is  cool  during  the  pleasantest  time  of  the  year,  in 
the  long  summer  days  when  the  sun  shines  most.  As  a 
rule,  it  is  clear  but  few  days  in  the  year;  usually,  how- 
ever, in  June  and  July  the  sun  pierces  the  deep  and 
heavy  clouds  that  settle  over  the  mountains,  and  brightens 
up  the  landscape.  When  the  sun  is  obscured,  it  is  liable 
to  rain  for  days,  and  sometimes  for  two  or  three  weeks 
at  a  time.  But  rains  here  are  not  so  chilly  as  in  most 
countries  where  cloudy  or  rainy  weather  prevails  for 
long  periods,  but,  as  a  rule,  are  warm. 

The  average  rainfall  along  the  coast  is  not  far  short  of 
one  hundred  inches  a  year,  and  at  Unalaska,  in  1884,  one 
hundred  and  fifty-five  inches  was  recorded. 

The  fall  of  snow  in  the  coast  country  is  also  consider- 
able. At  times  it  covers  the  earth  to  a  depth  of  three 
feet  on  a  level,  but  is  usually  damp,  and  a  snow-storm  is 
apt  to  turn  into  rain  in  a  few  hours,  causing  the  huge 

38 


I 

1 


CLIMATE  AXD  AGRICULTURE 


33 


'..III 


banks  and  drifts  to  disappear.  The  mercury  rarely  falls  to 
zero  in  any  part  of  the  southern  coast  country  ;  it  is  more 
likely  to  register  above  freezing  point  than  below  during 
the  greater  part  of  the  winter. 

The  climate  is  much  drier  in  the  interior,  rain  occurring, 
as  a  rule,  only  in  the  spring  and  summer.  Severe  showers 
are  sometimes  accompanied  by  fierce  thunder  and  light- 
ning, which  rarely  is  known  on  the  coast. 

No  other  section  of  this  continent  presents  such  a  di- 
versity of  climate  as  Alaska.  The  heat  of  the  summer  in 
the  interior  is  sometimes  intense,  often  registering  over 
one  hundred  degrees  in  the  shade,  and  it  has  been  known 
to  burst  a  spirit  thermometer  after  graduating  up  to  one 
hundred  and  twenty.  Summer  heat,  however,  is  quickly 
followed  by  winter  cold,  and  the  mercury  will  fall  to  fifty 
or  sixty  degrees  btlovv  zero.  On  one  occasion,  at  Fort 
Yukon,  it  is  known  to  have  reached  seventy  degrees 
below  zero.  The  winter  begins  about  the  first  of  Octo- 
ber and  lasts  until  the  first  of  June.  The  mean  temper- 
ature during  the  months  of  December,  January,  and 
I'ebruary  is  about  twenty-four  degrees  below  zero.  This 
cold  weather  and  long  period  of  winter  extends  to  within 
a  few  miles  of  the  coast. 

Notwithstanding  the  marked  variations  in  the  climate, 
Alaska  is  essentially  a  healthy  country.  The  only  pre- 
vailing diseases  are  those  of  a  bronchial  nature,  and  in 
most  cases  these  troubles  can  be  directly  traced  to  im- 
prudent exposure. 

The  snow  of  the  interior  partakes  much  of  the  charac- 
ter of  frost,  sifting  slowly  down  in  intenselj'  cold  weather 
until  it  lies  several  inches  deep,  light  and  fluffy;  but  at 

3 


*fi 


;l 


'  <l 


HI 


VvX 


'v\ 


'Ill'l 


34 


ALASKA 


I 


I  III  ii(  i 


times,  in  warm  weather,  it  thaws  and  settles  into  a  hard 
crust,  affording  excellent  surface  for  sledding. 

The  great  precipitation  and  humidity  of  the  atmosphere 
in  Southern  Alaska  cause  the  entire  coast  region  to  be 
clothed  in  a  mantle  of  perennial  green.  Vegetation  is 
dense,  and  the  forests  magnificent.  The  soil  is  rich, 
though  in  the  heavily  timbered  section  it  is  shallow ;  and 
from  the  most  eastern  point  of  the  Territory  to  Kadiak, 
root  crops  are  easily  grown.  Radishes,  lettuces,  carrots, 
onions,  cauliflower,  peas,  turnips,  cabbage,  beets,  celery, 
and  potatoes  yield  prolifically.  On  one-sixth  of  an  acre  at 
Sitka,  eighty  bushels  of  potatoes  have  been  raised.  It 
was,  however,  a  plot  of  ground  that  had  been  formerly 
used  by  the  Russians  as  a  garden  and  was  carefully  pre- 
pared. Strawberries  grow  with  the  greatest  spontaneity, 
and  have  a  flavour  equal  to  those  of  southern  latitudes. 
Some  extensive  fields  of  strawberries  are  found  under  the 
very  shadow  of  the  glaciers,  both  at  Glacier  Bay  and  at 
Yakutat.  Potatoes  are  grown  in  most  of  the  native  vil- 
lages along  the  coast  country.  No  system  of  planting  is 
followed,  the  rule  being  simply  to  bury  a  whole  potato  in 
the  ground  and  when  the  vines  appear  above  the  surface 
thin  out  if  necessary;  dirt  is  then  heaped  in  a  soft  hill 
with  but  little  of  the  care  given  this  crop  by  practical 
farmers.  The  potatoes  grown  here  have  an  excellent 
flavour,  but  are  inclined  to  be  watery.  The  cultivation 
of  the  soil  by  the  natives  is  of  the  most  primitive  char- 
acter, and  that  by  the  whites  is  carelessly  done. 

Oats,  barley,  and  wheat  have  been  grown  on  the  Stikccn 
River,  where  the  climate  is  colder  and  dryer.     The  pre- 
cipitation on  the  coast  is  so  great  that  it  is  doubtful  ii 


CLIMATE  AND  AGRICULTURE 


35 


cereals  could  mature,  except  in  a  dry  season.  They  grow 
very  rapidly,  and  before  they  can  mature  are  cut  down 
by  frosts  or  mould  through  dampness.  Silos  and  ensilage 
would  undoubtedly  be  a  success  here.  Cattle  prefer  the 
hay  of  the  country  to  that  imported,  and  if  the  two  are 
fed  to  them  mixed,  they  will  separate  the  native  hay  and 
cat  it  first. 

As  soon  as  the  snow  has  disappeared  in  the  spring, 
masses  of  herbage  spring  into  life,  and  quickly  blossom. 
Fruits  rapidly  mature  and  harvest  closely  foUowb  seed- 
time. It  is  a  surprising  fact  that  not  only  on  the  coast, 
but  also  in  the  interior,  small  fruits,  especially  ra.-.pber- 
ries,  blueberries,  cranberries,  and  red  currants  everywhere 
abound.  When  the  sun  shines  continually  fcr  twenty- 
four  hours  vegetable  life  is  extremely  rapid,  notwith- 
standing the  shortness  of  the  season. 

The  capability  of  the  soil  of  Alaska  under  a  proper 
system  of  cultivation,  both  on  the  coxst  and  in  the  in- 
terior, has  not  yet  been  fully  demonstrated.  It  is  hoped 
that  agricultural  experimental  stations  will  be  established 
by  the  Government  in  the  different  parts  of  the  Territory, 
say — one  at  Chilkat,  one  at  Kadiak,  one  at  Sitka,  and 
one  in  the  interior.  If  this  is  done,  intelligent  and  prac- 
tical experiments  with  the  various  grains,  roots,  and 
grasses  suitable  to  these  latitudes  can  be  made.  In  the 
spring  of  1894,  the  author  had  the  honour  of  appearing 
before  the  House  Committee  on  Agriculture  in  support 
of  establishing  stations  as  above;  a  bill  appropriating 
$15,000  for  the  purpose  was  unanimously  reported,  but 
it  met  with  the  usual  fate  of  Alaskan  measures — was 
never  reached  on  the  calendar. 


:t    ;:  J, 


PI 


36 


ALASK'A 


In  1897,  however,  Congress  appropriated  $5000,  and  in 
1898,  Sio.ooo  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  on  investiga- 
tions to  demonstrate  the  agricultural  possibilities  of 
Alaska.  The  results  were  so  encouraging  that  on  Jan- 
uary 13,  1899,  the  Secretary  of  Agriculture  transmitted  a 
report  to  Congress  in  which  he  says : 

The  investigations  have,  in  my  judgment,  shown  the  desir- 
ability and  feasibility  of  establishing  agricultural  experimental 
stations  in  Alaska,  and  I  therefore  recommend  that  definite 
provision  be  made  by  Congress  for  the  maintenance  of  such 
stations  in  that  Territory  on  a  permanent  basis,  as  is  done 
elsewhere  in  the  United  States. 


The  illustration  showing  the  results  of  experiments 
made  in  1898  at  Sitka,  demonstrates  that  the  conditions 
in  the  southern  coast  country  are  favourable  for  certain 
kinds  of  crops,  and  the  same  results  will  doubtless  be 
obtained  in  the  interior  when  investigation  extends  to 
that  region. 

Stock  raising  in  Alaska,  also,  must  first  be  investigated. 
Along  the  coast  the  chilly  air  of  fall  and  winter  is  very 
trying,  and  cold  rains,  snow,  sleet,  and  severe  winds  are 
all  encountered.  Experiments  heretofore  tnade  have  not 
proved  entirely  satisfactory.  Foot-rot  in  sheep  has  in- 
terfered with  this  industry  to  some  extent,  but  e.xperi- 
enced  stockmen,  familiar  with  the  interior  of  the  Territory, 
are  confident  that  it  jresents  excellent  opportunities  for 
the  successful  raising  of  cattle;  and  believe  it  is  possible 
that  the  great  interior  may,  within  a  very  few  years,  be- 
come a  feeding-ground  for  tens  of  thousands  of  sheep 
and  cattle. 


f! 


' .   i' 


«?. 


OATS,  BARLEY,  FLAX,  POTATOES,    GRASSES,  AND  CLOVER  GROWN  BY  THE 
DEPARTMENT  OF  AGRICULTURE  AT  SITKA,   1898. 


t"* 


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!  ♦ 

it 

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CLIMATE  AND  AGKICULTUHE 


17 


The  tundra  moss-covered  regions,  suitable  for  reindeer 
grazing,  prevail  throughout  the  whole  western  coast 
country,  and,  in  the  interior,  for  many  miles,  nutritious 
grass  and  moss  are  everywhere  found  in  abundance. 


I "  t 


A% 


fi    L 


'a 


I 


I 


ill     b1 


CHAPTER  IV 


MINERAL  AND   TIMBER 


THE  first  discovery  of  gold  in  South-east  Alaska  was 
near  Sitka,  in  the  year  1873.  It  excited  much  in- 
terest in  the  small  settlements  throughout  the  south- 
eastern coast,  and  prospecting  soon  commenced  in  earnest. 
Miners  from  the  old  Cassiar  region  in  British  Columbia, 
and  North-west  Territory,  began  to  push  forward  into 
Alaska,  and,  in  the  summer  of  1880,  gold  was  discovered 
in  the  vicinity  of  Juneau.  From  this  date  may  be  reck- 
oned the  developments  that  have  reached  such  large  pro- 
portions and  drawn  the  attention  of  the  whole  mining 
interests  in  America  to  our  Alaska  possessions. 

The  little  Indian  settlement  at  the  head  of  Gastineau 
Channel,  which  had  rarely  seen  a  white  man,  was  soon 
enlivened  by  the  tents  and  rude  huts  of  the  miners, 
which  were  scattered  along  the  coast  for  many  miles; 
and  back  into  the  interior  went  prospectors,  singly,  and 
in  partii.'s  of  three  or  more,  in  search  of  gold,  as  very 
strong  indications  led  them  to  believe  it  lay  somewhere 
in  this  vicinity. 

J  .^eph  Juneau  was  the  first  man  to  demonstrate  the 
ex '^'-  nee  of  gold  in  this  district  in  any  considerable 
quantities.     During   the   early   days   of   the   settlement 

38 


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-m\ 


THE  TREADWELL  LEDGE. 


MINERAL   AND    TIMBER 


39 


there  seemed  a  disposition  to  bestow  honour  upon  one 
Richard  Harris,  a  partner  of  Juneau,  by  naming  the  first 
mining  town  after  him.  So  the  town  was  first  called 
Harrisburg,  subsequently  named  Rockwell,  in  honour 
of  one  of  the  officers  of  the  United  States  steamer  y^w/fj- 
to'tvn,  then  located  at  Sitka;  but  the  inhabitants  finally 
determined  to  give  it  the  name  Juneau,  which  it  now 
bears. 

About  the  time  of  the  first  gold  excitement  at  Juneau, 
the  report  was  circulated  that  gold  had  been  found  on 
the  top  of  a  mountain  about  two  miles  across  the  bay, 
and  it  was  learned  that  a  miner,  known  in  camp  by  the 
name  of  "  French  Pete,"  had  staked  off  a  claim.  Mr. 
John  Treadwell  was  at  this  time  prospecting  in  the  region, 
and  investigated  this  location ;  being  convinced  that  it 
would  prove  good  property,  he  purchased  it  for  the  sum 
of  $400.  By  untiring  energy  and  persistent  efforts  he 
developed  the  property,  forging  his  way  almost  inch  by 
inch.  He  erected  first  a  five-stamp  mill.  The  result  was 
so  promising  that  he  found  little  trouble  in  organising  a 
company  with  capital  sufficient  to  erect  a  one-hundred- 
and-twenty-stamp  mill,  which,  seven  years  after  the  first 
discovery,  was  enlarged  to  two  hundred  and  forty  stamps, 
and  the  largest  mill  in  the  world  was  soon  pounding  out 
gold.  For  the  past  ten  years  there  has  hardly  been  a 
break  in  the  rattle  of  the  machinery  or  the  booming  of 
the  heavy  charges  of  dynamite,  as  they  are  echoed  and 
re-echoed  over  the  channel  to  the  town  of  Juneau.  Day 
and  night  during  this  whole  period,  with  the  exception 
of  the  Fourth  of  July  and  Christmas,  it  has  never  been 
known  to  stop.      In  calling  this  the  greatest  mill  in  the 


!  1 


if 


: 


; 


,1  ; 


m 


m 


40 


ALASK'A 


world,  we  mean  that  it  is  fully  equipped  in  every  depart- 
ment pertaining  to  a  well  regulated  and  efficient  working 
property;  and  although  the  ore  is  known  as  very  low 
grade,  estimated  as  yielding  only  $1.85  in  bullion  to  the 
ton  of  ore,  the  gold  output  from  this  mine  since  the  full 
two  hundred  and  forty  stamps  have  been  in  operation 
has  reached  the  sum  of  $70,000  or  $80,000  per  month. 

While  the  discovery  of  this  rich  ledge  awakened  a 
viidespread  interest  in  Alaska,  it  was  also  the  means  of 
effecting  the  organisation  of  a  company  which  perpetrated 
a  swindle  aggregating  several  hundred  thousand  dollars. 
A  claim  adjoining  the  great  Treadwell  mine,  and  repre- 
sented to  be  fully  as  promising,  was  located,  after  a  sup- 
posed thorough  and  careful  system  of  prospecting. 
German  and  English  capitalists  were  induced  to  take 
hold  of  it;  tunnels  were  run,  machinery  erected,  and 
everything  made  ready  to  start  the  operation  of  a  huge 
plant,  when  it  was  discovered  that  the  claim  had  been 
"  salted."  Work  stopped  at  once,  and  the  mining  world 
was  startled  by  the  announcement  that  the  Bear's  Nest 
mine  in  Alaska  was  a  gigantic  swindle.  This  threw  cold 
water  upon  the  mining  devv,lopment  of  Alaska  for  a 
period  of  three  or  four  years,  and  no  matter  how  promis- 
ing a  claim,  it  could  not  be  negotiated  at  any  price. 
Capitalists  looking  for  investments  were  afraid  to  venture 
into  Alaska.  The  rumour,  too,  became  current  that  the 
Treadwell  mine  was  a  mere ' '  blow-out, "  or  pocket,  where, 
by  a  singular  freak  of  nature,  a  lot  of  gold  had  been 
dumped  in  one  huge  pile,  and  that  it  would  never  be 
found  in  paying  quantities  anywhere  else  in  the  country. 

During  this  time,  however,  a  number  of  men  who  had 


■i 


■    V         ■    ■'f'-^M 


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11 


MINERAL   AND    TIMBER 


41 


followed  mining  camps  from  the  earliest  days  of  Cali- 
fornia up  through  Oregon,  into  the  Cariboo  and  Cassiar 
regions  of  British  Columbia,  finally  drifted  into  Alaska, 
and  believed  they  were  yet  within  the  mineral  belt. 
Every  dollar  they  could  command  was  expended  in  the 
development  of  mining  claims  that  were  staked  out  in 
many  places  along  the  coast  of  South-eastern  Alaska,  and 
the  result  of  their  work  has  shown  that  their  confidence 
was  not  misplaced.  Without  entering  into  a  detailed  or 
tedious  enumeration  of  the  different  camps  or  claims 
which  have  been  prospected  successfully,  it  is  sufficient 
to  say  that  all  through  the  South-eastern  Alaska  coast  to 
the  end  of  the  inland  channel  or  tourist  route,  at  the  very 
gates  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  wherein  lies  Alaska's  capital, 
rich  deposits  of  gold,  silver,  and  galena  ore  are  found. 
To  the  energy  and  steadfast  belief  of  a  few  of  the  old 
settlers  in  Sitka  is  due  in  no  small  degree  the  credit  of 
establishing  the  fact  that  the  gold  belt  of  California  and 
the  Western  Territories  was  not  riven  asunder  when  it 
reached  the  coast  range;  and  when  the  mountains  that 
tower  behind  the  capital  at  Sitka  are  made  to  yield  up 
the  ore  that  lies  buried  in  their  innermost  recesses,  we 
believe  it  will  prove  to  be  as  rich  as  any  yet  discovered 
in  this  country. 

In  several  places  on  Prince  of  Wales  Island,  and  north 
on  Annette  Island,  a  number  of  excellent  locations  have 
been  found  where  free  gold  is  scattered  among  tlie  rocks. 
Within  the  past  few  months  prospectors  have  located 
claims,  the  assays  of  which  indicate  large  and  rich  de- 
posits of  gold.  The  prospectors  for  silver,  four  or  five 
years  ago,  met  with  good  success,  but  on  account  of  the 


W( 


{i  hfcii^lM 


n 


.A 


\'X 


42  ALASKA       • 

depreciation  in  value  of  this  metal  the  search  for  it  has 
been  almost  entirely  abandoned. 

Passing  north  to  a  point  sixty  miles  south-east  of 
Juneau,  at  Sum-Dum,  is  located  the  Bald  Eagle  mining 
claim.  Before  it  was  thoroughly  prospected  it  was  sold 
for  many  thousands  of  dollars.  It  is  thought  by  many 
to  contain  the  richest  ore  of  any  mine  in  Alaska,  and  will 
assay  nearly  one  hundred  dollars  per  ton,  A  ten-stamp 
mill  has  been  in  constant  operation  here  for  the  past 
three  years,  Sum-Dum  Chief  and  several  other  locations 
are  very  promising. 

Northward,  within  four  miles  of  Juneau,  at  Sheep 
Cieek,  the  Silver  Queen  mine  is  located,  and  a  thirty- 
stamp  mill  is  in  operation.  The  ore  is  largely  impreg- 
nated with  silver,  yet  yields  from  $i6  to  $20  per  ton  in 
gold.  Other  claims  here  show  e.xcellent  prospects,  and 
this  will  undoubtedly  before  long  be  the  seat  of  active 
and  extended  operations. 

Within  a  radius  of  four  miles  of  Juneau,  besides  the 
great  Treadwell  mine,  there  are  eight  mills  in  operation. 

Gold  Creek,  which  comes  down  through  the  mountains 
north  of  Juneau,  and  flows  into  the  bay  in  a  rushing  tor- 
rent of  water,  drains  about  four  miles  of  country,  and 
upon  both  sides  the  rugged  mountains  seem  to  be  inter- 
woven by  rich  ledges  of  gold  quartz.  Six  stamp  mills 
are  constantly  at  work  eight  months  of  the  year,  and  the 
coming  season  will  see  the  beginning  of  development  by 
the  erection  of  mills  on  several  other  claims.  Placer 
claims  have  been  successfully  operated  there  for  a  num- 
ber of  years;  and  at  what  is  known  as  the  "  basin,"  many 
thousands  of  dollars  have  been  spent  in  getting  ready  to 


MINERAL   AND    TIMBER 


43 


as 


d 


operate  what  is  the  most  extensive  hydraulic  mine  in 
Alaska. 

Across  the  bay  adjoining  the  great  Treadwell  mine,  at 
what  is  known  as  the  Mexican  mine,  a  one-hundred-and- 
twenty-stamp  mill  is  in  operation.  To  the  east  of  that 
is  the  Ready  Bullion,  with  a  two-hundred-stamp  mill; 
these  two  claims  are  owned  or  controlled  by  the  company 
that  owns  the  Treadwell  mine. 

Towards  Lynn  Canal,  sixty  miles  from  Juneau,  the 
licrner's  Bay  mining  property  shows  indications  that  the 
richness  and  quantity  of  this  ore  will  prove  as  great  as 
any  yet  found.  The  forty-stamp  mill  here  is  in  operation 
most  of  the  year.  On  Admiralty  Island,  at  Funta  Bay, 
also,  is  a  group  of  what  will  probably  prove  one  of  the 
richest  mining  camps  in  the  whole  of  South-cast  Alaska. 
A  number  of  ledges  arc  found  that  contain  rich  ore  and 
rock,  which,  when  pounded  out  from  any  of  these  ledges, 
yield  in  every  instance  exceptionally  rich  deposits  of  gold 
in  the  bottom  of  the  pan. 

At  Glacier  Bay  there  are  many  strong  indications  of 
silver,  the  veins  being  easily  traced  along  the  sides  of  the 
mountains,  which  are  entirely  nude  of  vegetation.  On 
Willoughby  Island,  in  particular,  there  are  rich  galena 
deposits,  and  up  to  the  time  of  the  depreciation  of  silver 
extensive  preparations  were  made  to  develop  several  of 
these  properties.  At  the  extreme  end  of  Glacier  Bay  are 
very  rich  deposits,  in  which  native  silver  has  been  found 
among  galena.  The  owners  are  carefully  doing  their 
assessment  work  each  year  and  waiting  for  silver  to 
appreciate  so  as  to  resume  operations. 

Passing  outside  of  the  waters  of  the  inland  canal  into 


'111. 


'I  I 


It;'  I    - ': 


44 


ALASKA 


the  North  Pacific,  rich  miner.il  indications  are  found 
along  the  coast  at  Lituya  Bay.  Rich  deposits  of  ruby 
and  black  sand  stretch  along  the  coast  for  many  miles 
towards  Yakutat.  The  quality  of  the  gold  found  in  this 
region  is  fine,  but  amalgamates  readily,  and  is  easily 
saved  by  careful  sluicing.  Although  there  has  been  con- 
siderable work  in  this  region  at  placer  mining  during  the 
past  four  or  five  years,  there  is  quite  an  extcnsivL-  range 
of  country  yet  unworked,  or,  for  that  matter,  unpro- 
spected.  Practical  miners  who  have  investigated  this 
portion  of  the  coast  believe  that  a  rich  and  extensive 
mining  section  will  here  be  opened  up. 

Speculation  as  to  the  probability  of  the  Copper  River 
country  being  within  the  gold  district  of  Alaska  has  for  a 
number  of  years  been  more  or  less  rife  among  those  who 
have  been  attracted  to  Alaska.  But  as  yet  nothing  more 
substantial  than  vague  reports  of  rich  finds  have  ma- 
terialised.  The  belief  that  the  Copper  River  Indians 
would  not  permit  prospectors  to  enter  this  territory  has 
doubtless  tended  to  keep  this  region  in  the  background, 
but  the  past  season  witnessed  a  large  influx  of  prospect- 
ors to  that  region,  and  before  the  close  of  the  present 
year  good  reports  may  be  expected. 

From  the  reports  of  Schwatka  and  others  who  pro- 
spected this  stream  some  years  ago,  there  seem  s  to  be  little 
doubt  that  gold  exists  here  in  considerable  quantities, 
and  it  seems  fair  to  presume  that  a  region  surrounded  in 
all  directions,  as  Copper  River  is,  by  gold-producing 
country,  must  also  yield  its  share  of  the  yellow  dust. 

Copper  River  is  navigable  but  a  few  miles  above  its 
mouth  for  small  boats  only.     One  of  the  most  extensive 


^iJ 


A//X£A\l/.   AXn    TIMBER 


45 


glaciers  in  Alaska  is  encountered  sixty  miles  above  its 
mouth,  and  a  few  miles  farther  on  is  a  canyon  over 
twenty  miles  long,  whose  grandeur  rivals  the  Grand  Can- 
yon of  the  Colorado.  The  water  plunges  through  in 
frightful  torrents  as  it  thunders  down  to  the  sea. 

An  indication  that  the  lower  (,iid  of  Copper  River  is 
not  a  practicable  route  for  small  boats  is  the  fact  that  the 
upper-river  natives  do  most  of  their  trading  cither  at 
stores  on  Valdez  Inlet,  an  arm  of  Prince  William  Sound, 
or  at  Knik  or  Sushitna  Rivers,  emptying  into  Cook  Inlet. 

The  early  Russian  settlers  are  known  tc  have  worked 
at  placer  mining  at  Cook  Inlet,  but  with  indifferent  suc- 
cess. The  summer  of  1895  found  some  two  hundred 
prospectors  there.  They  were  operating  mostly  on  the 
main  streams  and  branches  of  Six-Mile  and  Resurrection 
Creek  which  empty  into  Turnagain  Arm,  a  branch  of 
the  inlet.  Gold  in  paying  cpiantities  was  soon  found  in 
several  places,  and  the  valleys  were  immediately  staked 
out.  Some  of  the  claims  proved  to  be  very  rich.  That 
of  the  Polly  Mining  Company  was  believed  at  the  time 
to  be  capable  of  yielding  one  hundred  dollars  per  day  for 
each  man  employed. 

In  the  spring  of  1896  a  rush  to  this  region  began  with 
great  vigour.  Every  sailing  schooner  and  several  un- 
seaworthy  steamers  were  pressed  into  service  to  convey 
the  Argonauts  to  the  new  Eldorado,  About  fifteen  hun- 
dred men  succeeded  in  reaching  Sunrise  City,  located  at 
the  mouth  of  Six-Mile  Creek.  The  men  scattered  out, 
some  to  obtain  work,  and  others  in  large  groups  traversed 
the  shores  of  Six-Mile,  Mills,  Link,  Resurrection.  Glacier, 
and  other  creeks,  but  found  all  available  ground  staked 


■■  ■  \ 

t 

i      ^   i 

: 

>  t  ■ 
■ 

r\ 


1\ 


46 


ALASh'A 


off.  Most  of  the  men  being  inexperienced  in  prospecting 
returned  in  disgust  to  Sunrise  City  and  on  to  their  homes 
at  the  first  opjjortunity.  About  three  hundred  remained 
over  the  winter,  and  these  made  good  wages.  The  dig- 
gings yielded  about  four  dolhirs  to  six  dollars  per  day  per 
man  as  a  general  average.  A  number  of  miners  have 
been  known  to  return  with  $3000  to  S4000,  and  a  few 
with  $15,000  to  $20,000. 

The  advantage  of  mining  in  this  locality  is  that  tlie 
cost  of  living  is  not  so  high  as  at  the  interior  camps  of 
Alaska.  The  Cook  Inlet  country  will  probably  be  heard 
of  most  hereafter  as  the  scene  of  hydraulic  operations, 
some  very  extensive  plants  being  in  the  course  of  erec- 
tion, and  as  many  as  8000  acres  of  hydraulic  placer  ground 
are  held  by  a  single  corporation. 

For  the  past  four  or  five  years  prospecting  has  been 
c.irried  on  at  Unga,  on  the  island  of  that  name,  and  the 
work  has  been  thorough  and  extensive.  A  ten-stamp 
mill  was  first  erected,  and  two  years  ago  the  capacity 
increased  to  forty  stamps,  and  the  Alaska  Commercial 
Company,  which  owns  the  property,  feels  satisfied  that  it 
has  a  mine  which  it  will  take  many  years  to  exhaust,  and 
that  it  will  prove  a  paying  investment.  This  section  of 
Alaska  has  every  indication  of  rich  mineral  deposits,  but 
when  it  is  considered  that  the  white  settlements  are  very 
scarce,  the  means  of  communication  with  the  outside 
world  uncertain,  and  the  cost  of  provisions  and  supplies 
very  great,  it  is  no  wonder  that  so  little  has  been 
done  and  so  little  known  of  the  resources  of  this  vast 
country. 

Some  fourteen  years  ago,  on  a  branch  of  Fish  River 


MIX  EN  A  I.   AXD    TIM  HER 


47 


which  empties  into  Golofniii  Hay,  Norton  Sound,  indica- 
tions of  rich  silver  deposits  were  found.  The  disc(/Vcrer 
returned  to  San  Francisco  with  a  few  samples  of  the  ore, 
the  assay  of  which  proved  to  be  very  rich.  A  schooner 
was  fitted  out  and  sent  there  the  followinj^  season,  and  in 
due  time  was  loaded  down  with  the  ore;  but  soon  after 
leaving  the  bay  a  severe  storm  was  encountered,  and  when 
last  seen  by  the  natives  on  shore  she  was  labouring  m  a 
heavy  sea,  and  nothing  more  was  ever  heard  of  her.  Sub- 
sequently another  vessel  was  fitted  out  and  considerable 
ore  was  taken  to  San  Francisco,  which  proved  so  rich  that 
a  company  was  organised,  and  in  1891-92  §60,000  was 
expended  on  the  mine.  Another  large  quantity  of  ore 
was  shipped  to  San  Francisco,  which  proved  to  be  as  rich 
as  any  heretofore  taken  from  this  mine,  but  on  account 
of  difficulty  among  the  members  of  the  company  work  on 
the  property  was  abandoned.  It  is  understood,  however, 
that  the  quality  and  quantity  of  ore  found  here  are  suffic- 
ient to  pay  a  handsome  profit  for  its  shipment  to  San 
Francisco,  even  at  the  present  price  of  this  metal.  It  is 
expected  that  operations  will  be  resumed  at  this  mine  the 
coming  season. 

The  country  about  Golofnin  Bay.  although  known  for 
several  years  to  contain  silver  and  galena  deposits,  was 
not,  until  the  spring  of  189S,  supposed  to  conta..i  placer 
gold  diggings.  In  the  fall  of  1897,  four  men  from  San 
Francisco,  equipped  with  a  year's  supply  of  provisions, 
arrived  there,  and  went  up  the  Neukluk  River,  a  branch 
of  Fish  River,  about  sixty-five  miles  from  Golofnin  liay. 
They  commenced  prospecting  in  the  early  spring,  and 
found,  on  what  they  named  Ophir  Creek,  rich  deposits  of 


:- 


s  : 


I- 1 

h  I. 


.11 


In 


ALASKA 


placer  gold.  On  a  stream  four  miles  distant,  which  was 
named  Mclsing  Creek  after  one  of  the  party,  rich  dig- 
gings were  also  found. 

On  account  of  high  water,  they  were  not  able  to  reach 
bedrock  during  the  past  summer,  but  from  the  loose  sur- 
face gravel  over  a  dollar  in  gold  was  taken  out  in  Ui.  ny 
places  from  a  single  pan  of  dirt. 

They  continued  their  prospecting  during  the  se.son, 
following  the  river  to  its  source,  and  many  creel  :,  were 
found  as  rich  as  the  two  referred  to  above. 

The  news  of  this  discovery  quickly  spread  to  St. 
Michaels,  and  by  the  first  of  September,  1898,  forty  or 
fifty  men  had  arrived  at  this  camp. 

Among  the  number  of  companies  that  were  organised 
in  Chicago  for  the  purpose  of  engaging  in  mining  in 
Alaska,  in  the  spring  of  1898,  was  one  known  as  the 
Dusty  Diamond  Company.  Fifty  members  comprised 
the  company,  and  fifty  thousand  dollars  was  invested  in 
a  river  boat,  dredging  and  mining  machinery,  and  sup- 
plies; thus  equipped,  they  started  for  some  point  to  be 
determined  in  the  future.  When  about  to  leave  St. 
Michaels  during  August  last,  reports  were  rife  of  rich 
strikes  on  the  Neukluk  River.  At  once  they  changed 
their  course  and  started  for  che  new  diggings. 

A  committee  of  two  members  of  this  company  was 
sent  <ihcad  in  a  small  boat,  the  others  to  follow  with  sup- 
plies. The  .'luthor,  who  had  heard  through  Eskimos  one 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  farther  north  that  white  men 
"  had  found  money  in  the  ground,"  started  at  once  for 
this  camp,  reaching  there  about  the  same  time  as  the 
representatives  of  the  company. 


30' 
JKLUK  RIVER  QOLD-FIELDS. 


11.? 


■M     •  II 


i 

I 

ft 

1 

" 

I<»7 


30  166°  ''        30' 

GOUOFNIN  BAY  AND  NEUKLUK  RIVER  GOLD-FIELDS. 


mTT 


mi  %-: 


MIX  ERA!.    AXD    TIMIU-.R 


49 


One  of  the  claims  on  Ophir  Creek  owned  by  the  four 
men  who  discovered  gold  in  this  country  was  prospected 
b\  us  jointly,  and  as  high  as  $i.20  to  the  pan  was  found 
in  the  bed  of  the  creek.  Negotiations  were  effected  by 
the  company  to  work  this  claim  on  shares,  and  work  was 
immediately  started  to  turn  the  channel  of  the  creek,  and 
in  less  than  two  months  §48,000  is  said  to  have  been 
taken  from  this  claim. 

Mining  in  tliis  country,  as  in  the  Klondike,  will  have 
to  be  done  principally  in  the  winter  on  account  of  the 
quantity  of  water  that  stands  in  the  depressions  among 
the  tundra,  and  the  many  streams  which  are  everywhere 
found,  making  it  impossible  to  reach  bedrock  except 
when  the  ground  is  frozen.  The  burning  process  will  be 
resorted  to  and  the  pay  dirt  brou^;lit  to  the  surface  and 
sluiced  after  the  frost  is  q\x\  \\\  the  spring. 

The  country  drained  by  the  Neukluk  River  is,  from  its 
general  appearance  and  what  is  already  known  of  its  min- 
eral deposits,  one  of  the  niovt  promising  camps  yet  found 
in  Ala.ska.  It  is  an  idea!  mining  country,  too,  for  it  can 
be  reached  as  quickly  from  civilisation  as  St.  Michaels, 
and  in  summer  is  a  veritable  garden.  Vegetation  is 
everywhere  prolific,  flowers  of  many  varieties  and  tints 
are  found  among  the  Arc^L  moss,  grasses  of  different 
varieties  abound  amotig  the  alder  and  willow  bushes,  and 
cranberries,  salir.  jn  berries,  and  huckleberries  of  rare 
flavour  grow  spontaneously  among  the  tundra  scattered 
over  these  Arctic  plains.  Here  and  there  along  the 
banks  of  the  Neukluk  and  many  of  its  tributaries,  groves 
of  spruct-  and  hemlock  afford  abundant  material  for  fuel, 
and  salmon  abound  m  the  streams  in  vast  quantities. 


T'-V 

1     \ 

■         1 

*       t' 

I  n 


i 


ff^ 


1 


! 


50 


ALASA'A 


Lieutenant  Stoney,  who  was  sent  by  the  Government 
some  years  ago  to  explore  the  region  of  Kotzcbue  Sound, 
spent  two  or  three  years  there,  and  found  gold  along  the 
Selawik  and  liuckland  Rivers. 

In  the  summer  of  ih.j^,  two  minerr  from  the  Yukon 
made  their  way  to  the  Koyukuk  River,  following  down 
this  stream  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Selawik  River  which 
they  prospected  to  its  mouth.  It  was  late  in  the  season 
when  they  reached  the  Selawik  and  their  investigations 
were  hurriedly  made.  They  found  fine  gold  in  every 
instance. 

In  the  summer  of  1896,  the  author  obtained  coarse 
gold  to  the  amount  of  $22  from  two  different  Eskimos 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Selawik  River,  which  they  found 
on  that  stream.  In  the  summer  of  1897,  Eskimos 
brought  to  the  coast  samples  of  quartz  showing  free 
gold,  and  Captain  Coghlan,  of  the  steam  whaling  ship 
Thrasher,  reported  that  Eskimos  came  aboard  his  vessel 
shortly  after,  bringing  gold  from  the  same  region. 

The  report  brought  to  San  Francisco  by  Captain 
Coghlan  gave  rise  during  the  past  year  to  widespread 
interest  in  that  section  of  Alaska,  and  several  expeditions 
reached  Kotzebue  Sound  about  the  middle  of  July,  and 
over  six  hundred  men  started  up  the  Kowak  and  Selawik 
Rivers.  The  season  was  anything  but  favourable  for 
prospecting,  high  water  delaying  tiicir  progress  up  the 
streams,  and  many,  becoming  discouraged  and  disheart- 
ened, returned  to  their  homes  with  nothing  but  their 
experience.  The  few  that  remained  had  barely  time  to 
reach  the  upper-river  region  before  winter  set  in,  and  no 
reliable  reports  can  be  expected  from  this  section  until 


M( 


i 


MIXERAL   AXD    TIM  HER 


51 


the  corning  summer.  There  is  no  doubt  that  gold  exists 
as  far  north  as  the  headwaters  of  these  two  streams,  but 
it  remains  for  the  future  to  determine  to  what  extent. 

In  ahnost  every  mining  district  of  Alaska,  black  sand 
is  found  in  greater  or  less  quantities,  and  this  is  particu- 
larly true  of  the  interior.  Black  sand  is  generally  con- 
sidered a  sign  of  good  diggings,  but  in  many  instances  it 
is  found  in  such  quantities  as  to  interfere  with  slui'^ing. 
On  account  of  its  great  specific  gravity,  it  settles  among 
the  riffles  of  the  sluice-box,  and  when  the  cleaii-up  is 
made  it  is  very  hard  to  separate  it  from  the  gold,  even 
with  careful  panning. 

The  tailings  on  many  claims  contain  large  quantities  of 
black  sand,  and  not  until  recently  was  it  supposed  to 
have  any  value. 

Ncw.i  comes  from  Dawson,  under  date  of  December  5, 
1S98,  that  a  metallurgist  of  national  prominence  made  a 
careful  assay  of  some  black  sand  taken  from  a  sluice-box 
where  it  had  settled  among  the  riffles,  and  it  was  found 
to  contain  a  large  per  cent,  of  platinum.  In  one  ton  of 
the  black  sand  there  were  ninety-six  ounces  of  platinum, 
■■•.hich  at  a  value  of  $8  per  ounce  gave  the  supposed  black 
sand  a  value  of  $768.  To  secure  the  ton  of  black  sand, 
however,  one  thousand  tons  of  gravel  had  to  be  washed, 
but  as  this  could  be  done  at  the  expense  of  a  few  cents  a 
yard,  mining  for  platinum  could  be  carried  on  at  a  great 
profit  without  considering  the  value  of  the  gold  found  in 
the  gravel,  which  in  the  sample  ton  in  the  above  assay 
yielded  §102  to  the  ton. 

If  this  report  is  reliable,  and  it  seems  to  be,  for  Consul 
McCook  stationed  at  Dawson  reported  the  result  as  above 


\  ^  ■  [■ 


^  0 

:;  1 

1 

ii 


52 


ALAS/^A 


to  the  Government  at  Washington,  locations  heretofore 
abandoned  on  account  of  excessive  deposits  of  black  sand 
may  be  reopened  and  yield  lu'.ndsome  dividends. 

South-eastern  Alaska  is  well  timbered,  the  prevailing 
varieties  bein'^  spruce  and  hemlock,  red  and  yellov  cedar. 
The  spruce  and  hemlock  found  here  are  usually  of  large 
size,  often  a  hundred  feet  high  and  six  and  eight  feet  in 
diameter.  The  yellow  cedar  is  a  beautiful  wood,  suscep- 
tible of  high  polish,  and  is  especially  adapted  for  manu- 
facture of  furniture.  The  yellow  cedar  grows  many  feet 
in  heigh';,  straight  and  clear,  without  any  defect  whatso- 
ever. The  wood,  when  polished,  presents  a  beautiful 
yellowish  hue,  and  is  hard  and  compact  though  easily 
worked.  Little  is  known  of  the  extent  of  the  yellow 
cedat,  but  no  doubt  explorations  will  discover  consider- 
able areas  of  this  valuable  wood.  From  Sitka  westward 
the  forests  become  scrubby  and  the  timber  small  in  size, 
and  entirely  disappear  twenty  miles  west  of  there,  but 
alder  and  willow  arc  found  in  many  places.  The  timber 
line  extends  to  a  height  of  about  fifteen  hundred  feet. 
The  timber  along  the  lower  portion  of  the  Yukon  is 
composed  principally  of  willow,  alder,  and  Cottonwood. 
Towards  Norton  Sound  it  grows  to  a  fair  size.  Spruce 
is  also  found,  as  a  rule,  on  most  streams  emptying  into 
the  Yukon  River  and  Bering  Sea.  The  rivers  entering 
the  Arctic  as  far  as  sixty-seven  degrees  north  latitude  are 
more  or  less  timbered  with  the  same  variety.  Along 
Wood  River  there  are  some  fine  groves  of  large  spruce 
timber,  and  back  in  the  interior  and  along  the  banks  of 
the  rivers  and  on  level  stretches  of  country  fir  timber  is 
also  found  to  considerable  extent.     Dwarf  spruce,  cotton- 


MINERAL   AXD    TIMBER 


S3 


wood,  alder,  and  willow  are  also  found  in  the  Nushaf,'ak 
and  Kuskoquim  regions.  1  he  willow  usually  found 
along  the  coast  west  of  Mt.  St.  Klias  is  scrubby,  but  in 
the  moraine.}  of  that  mountain  and  along  the  delta  of  the 
Copper  River  it  grows  to  a  height  of  fifteen  or  twenty 
feet.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  Noatuk  River,  in  sixty-seven 
degrees  north  latitude,  spruce,  birch,  and  cottonwood  are 
found  of  a  stunted  growth,  fit  only  for  firewood  and  the 
construction  of  log  houses. 

In  the  Yukon  country,  from  Five  Fingers  all  the  way 
to  Koserefski  Mission,  on  the  Yukon,  the  timber  growing 
along  the  banks  is  principally  willow,  alder,  and  spruce, 
the  latter  being  the  prevailing  variety.  It  is  generally 
scrubby,  but  many  good-sized  trees  are  found.  The 
islands  in  the  river  from  F"ivc  Fingers  to  the  mouth  of 
the  Yukon  are  generally  well  timbered,  the  larger  islands 
being  better  wooded  than  the  mainland. 

The  coal  resources  of  Alaska  are  lying  dormant  because 
the  time  does  not  seem  to  have  arrived  for  the  necessity 
of  the  opening  up  of  the  mines.  A  number  of  small 
veins  or  seams  have  been  found  on  several  of  the  islands 
in  the  south-eastern  Alaskan  country.  Those  which 
perhaps  so  far  have  attracted  the  most  attention  are  on 
Chicagoff  Island  near  Killisnoo,  where  every  indication 
promises  an  extensive  deposit.  All  the  coal  found  in 
Alaska  is  bituminous  and  of  a  very  good  quality.  De- 
posits have  been  found  on  the  headwaters  of  the  Chilkat 
River,  Lituya  Bay,  Cook  Inlet,  Unga  Island,  and  Port 
Mollar.  The  most  extensive  coal  fields  or  deposits  are 
in  the  Cook  Inlet  country,  cropping  out  on  the  beaches 
and  along  many  of  the  streams.     Unga  Island  has  three 


r  r 

' 

'  \ 

\ 

V'\ 

f 

■    1 

1  i 

\     \ 

it 


4.1 


f^ 


34 


ALASKA 


distinct  veins  of  coal  extending'  a  distance  of  two  miles 
upon  the  sides  of  the  mountains,  each  of  them  beinjj 
several  feet  thick.  Some  work  has  been  done  here  within 
the  last  few  years  and  Government  vessels  have  experi- 
mented with  the  coal,  but  find  it  contains  a  considerable 
amount  of  ashes  and  clinker.  Doubtless  when  a  f^reater 
depth  is  reached  it  will  improve  in  quality.  North  of 
Unga  island,  about  ten  miles  inland  from  Stepovak  liay, 
is  a  trail  or  portage  about  ten  miles  lonjj;  leading  to  Her- 
endeen  Bay,  at  Port  Mollar,  on  the  Bering  Sea  side.  An 
excellent  quality  of  coal  is  found  here  in  large  quantities. 
The  Alaska  Commercial  Company,  the  principal  owner 
of  the  mine,  has  shipped  considerable  coal  to  its  station  at 
Unalaska;  and  its  quality,  both  for  steaming  and  house 
purposes,  is  found  to  be  superior  to  that  found  at  Unga. 
Extensive  coal  fields  exist  at  Cape  Lisburne,  on  the 
Arctic  side,  extending  for  tliirty  or  forty  miles  parallel 
with  the  coast  and  for  a  number  of  miles  back  into  the 
interior.  It  is  of  a  lignite  character,  and  the  Government 
vessels  Corzcin  and  TJictis  have  taken  coal  for  steaming 
purposes  from  here,  and  have  found  an  e.xcess  of  ash  and 
clinker,  which  seems  to  be  the  general  fault  with  all  coal 
thus  far  discovered  in  Alaska.  Strong  indications  of 
petroleum  are  found  back  from  the  coast  a  few  miles, 
in  this  Arctic  region,  and  also  between  Icy  Bay  and 
Cape  Yaktaga.  On  the  North  Pacific  coast,  west  of 
Yakutat  Bay,  there  are  extensive  deposits  or  indications 
of  petroleum.  Practically  all  the  coal  used  by  vessels 
navigating  Alaskan  waters  and  in  the  quartz  mills  and 
towns  of  Alaska  is  brought  from  the  Puget  Sound  country 
and  British  Columbia.     It  is  bought  at  the  mines  for  about 


MINERAL  AND    TIMBER 


S5 


three  dollars  per  ton,  and  the  expense  of  shi'ppinfj  to  the 
Southern  Alaska  ports  is  five  or  six  dollars  per  ton.  The 
expense  of  opening;  up  a  coal  mine  is  so  jjrcat  that  until 
there  is  a  large  demand  in  Alaska  it  is  doubtful  if  any  of 
the  mines  will  be  worked. 


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3 


CHAPTER  V 


FISHERIES 

'HE  fish  industry  of  Al- 
aska   is    destined    to 
assume  immense  propor- 
tions. 

Upon  the  authority 
of  Professor  Bean,  of 
the  United  States  Fish 
Commission,  more  than 
one  hundred  varieties 
of  fish  are  found  in  the 
Alaskan  waters.  Salmon,  rank- 
ing first  in  importance,  is  found  in  great  numbers  in  the 
streams  from  the  lower  extremity  of  South-east  Alaska  to 
the  Arctic  Ocean.  The  most  favoured  varieties  are  those 
known  as  the  red  or  silver  salmon,  weighing  from  eight  to 
twelve  or  fifteen  pounds  each,  and  the  king  salmon,  often 
weighing  as  high  as  fifty  pounds.  The  latter  variety  is 
found  only  in  a  few  localities  in  South-east  Alaska  and  in 
the  Yukon,  many  miles  above  its  mouth.  It  is  said  that 
specimens  have  been  cau^^ht  in  this  river  weiglung  over 
one  hundred  and  twenty  pounds. 

The  first  salmon  cannery  in  Alaska  was  erected  in  1878, 

56 


I 


FISflERTES 


57 


and  at  the  present  time  there  are  thirty-six  ;  most  of  them 
are  in  operation  each  season. 

The  growth  of  this  industry  was  extremely  rapid,  can- 
neries being  constructed  at  a  cost  of  from  fifty  thousand 
to  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  dollars  each. 
Enormous  profits  gave  rise  to  much  speculation,  but  it 
was  found  that  the  supply  of  canned  salmon  when  the 
canneries  were  run  at  their  fullest  capacity,  was  too  great 
for  the  demand. 

In  1892,  a  combination  or  trust  was  formed,  which  re- 
sulted in  closing  down  several  canneries,  but  the  owners 
cam ,  into  a  general  pool  and  received  a/r^  rata  interest 
in  the  proceeds  arising  from  the  packs  of  the  canneries  in 
operation.  Some  of  these  canneries  have  a  capacity  of 
from  forty  thousand  to  sixty  thousand  cases  each  year, 
and  when  it  is  understood  that  a  single  case  contains  four 
dozen  one-pound  cans,  and  that  in  the  year  1898  the 
combined  pack  of  all  the  canneries  was  over  950,000  cases, 
an  idea  can  be  formed  of  the  vast  number  of  salmon 
caught. 

It  is  unusual  for  more  than  one  establis'.mient  to  be 
found  on  any  salmon  stream,  but  at  Karluk,  on  the  north- 
west sideof  Kadiak  Island,  on  a  small  stream  not  exceeding 
sixty  feet  wide  at  its  mouth,  there  are  fi\  e  canneries,  and 
the  supply  of  salmon  seems  inexhaustible.  The  river  at 
its  mouth,  and  for  a  long  distance  out  into  the  salt  water, 
during  the  spawning  season,  when  the  salmon  are  on 
their  way  to  the  lakes  above  for  the  purpose  of  depositing 
their  eggs,  seems  to  be  fairly  swarming  with  these  fish. 
They  fill  the  water  to  such  extent  as  to  almost  dam  it  up, 
and  those  below,  in  their  eagerness  to  ascend  the  river. 


1 


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ili 


1:.  .1;^  \\ 


58 


ALASKA 


crowd  those  on  top  so  that  their  fins  and  part  of  their 
body  are  exposed  to  view.  Tlie  first  season  tlie  author 
beheld  the  sight,  he  thought  an  appropriate  name  for  this 
stream  would  be  the  "  River  of  Life." 

While  it  will  not  be  fair  to  charge  these  canning  com- 
panies with  being  directly  antagonistic  to  the  settlement 
and  development  of  Alaska,  it  is  true  that  their  influence 
has  always  been  exerted  in  that  direction.  It  has  been 
the  practice  of  these  corporations  to  bring  all  their  help 
from  outside  the  territory.  Not  only  are  their  fishermen 
brought  from  the  Pacific  coast  States,  but  the  entire 
canning  force — and  each  establishment  employs  from 
forty  to  seventy-five  men — are  Chinamen.  There  are 
two  exceptions,  however,  where  the  natives  do  most  of 
the  work  of  canning  salmon,  namely,  at  Klawak  and 
New  Metlakahtla. 

It  requires  no  special  skill  to  catch  salmon,  yet  it  has 
been  the  custom  of  these  canneries  to  bring  white  men 
into  the  country  in  the  spring  for  the  purpose,  and  take 
them  back  to  their  home  when  the  fishing  season  ended. 
It  has  been  also  the  practice  to  pay  the  men  for  their 
season's  work  after  they  have  reached  their  homes,  thus 
not  only  taking  the  product  of  the  streams  away  without 
paying  a  dollar  for  it,  but  depriving  the  Territory  of  the 
benefit  resulting  from  the  labour  therein,  which  would 
contribute  in  no  small  way  to  the  support  and  upbuilding 
of  the  country.  If  these  industries  would  employ  white 
men  altogether,  it  would  bring  into  the  country  many 
who  might  identify  themselves  with  it  in  some  way  dur- 
ing the  months  the  canneries  are  idle.  Again,  in  the 
packing  of  salted  salmon,  the  interests  of  the  country  are 


li. 

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I 


FISHERIES 


59 


not  considered.  Fciiy  seven  thousand  barrels,  each 
weighing  two  hundred  pounds,  are  prepared  for  the 
market  each  year. 

In  the  preparation  of  salmon  an  enormous  quantity  of 
boxes  are  used,  but  the  sawmills  of  the  Territory  are  not 
patronised ;  for  the  material  is  imported  and  the  boxes 
are  put  togetlwr  as  they  are  needed,  though  they  might 
be  manufactured  in  the  country  of  as  good  quality  of 
timber  at  less  cost  than  they  are  furnished  under  the 
present  system. 

South-east  Alaska  is  covered  with  a  dense  growth  of 
spruce,  hemlock,  and  cedar,  which  should  be  a  source  of 
income  and  a  means  of  employment  for  a  large  number 
of  men,  but  it  is  lying  dormant  because  one  of  the  great 
industries  of  the  Territory  does  not  deem  it  proper  to 
encourage  manufactures  within  its  borders. 

The  liberty  these  canneries  take  in  catching  fish  with- 
out restriction  is  a  feature  of  this  subject  which  is  liable 
to  be  of  great  importance  to  the  people  who  will  in  time 
inhabit  Alaska,  as  well  as  to  the  many  thousands  of 
natives,  who  have  from  the  earliest  periods  subsisted 
upon  fish  food.  Restriction  should  have  been  imposed 
upon  them  a  number  of  years  ago.  Some  of  the  can- 
neries have  erected  traps  at  the  mouths  of  the  different 
streams,  and  few  salmon  are  permitted  to  escape.  It 
will  not  be  difificult  to  understand,  therefore,  that  in  a 
few  years  streams  thus  obstructed  must  become  ex- 
hausted, unless  some  means  are  adopted  to  prevent  this 
wholesale  destruction. 

The  Alaskan  codfish  industry  promises  to  become  exten- 
sive in  the  near  future.     Cod  are  found  in  large  quanti- 


6o 


ALASK'A 


ties  along  the  Aleutian  chain  of  islands,  as  far  west  as 
the  Alexandria  Archipelago,  and  in  a  general  way  they 
may  be  said  to  exist  along  the  whole  southern  coast  of 
Alaska. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  Kadiak  group  of  islands,  and  still 
farther  south  to  the  Simeonoff,  and  at  the  Shumagin 
group,  about  the  islands  of  Magipogf  and  Unga,  cod  are 
found  in  great  abundance.  In  Bering  Sea,  to  the  east  of 
Unimak  Pass,  and  towards  the  lower  Siberian  shore,  they 
are  also  found  in  large  quantities.  Two  San  Francisco 
firms  are  the  only  parties  extensively  engaged  in  the 
catching  and  shipment  of  cod  at  the  present  time,  and 
they  seem  to  have  developed  the  business  suflficiently  to 
meet  the  demand,  for  they  have  a  number  of  vessels  each 
season  employed  in  the  traffic.  Two  companies  from 
Puget  Sound  are  also  engaged  in  cod-fishing  in  Bering 
Sea,  but  as  yet  to  a  very  limited  extent. 

The  manner  of  fishing  is  usually  from  dories.  The 
fishermen  are  paid  at  the  rate  of  $25  for  every  thousand 
fish  caught,  and  they  are  to  ni.visure  at  least  twenty-six 
inches  in  length.  If  smaller  fish  are  accepted,  say  meas- 
uring from  twenty-four  to  twenty-L>ix,  two  fish  are  counted 
as  one.  So  it  will  be  seen  that  these  fish  are  caught  with 
considerable  ease  and  in  great  quantities  in  order  to  pay 
the  fishermen  fifty  dollars  per  Uionth,  the  smallest  amount 
they  expect  to  make  from  the  cruise. 

Next  in  importance  to  the  cod  ranks  the  halibut,  which 
is  found  in  vast  quantities  in  the  waters  of  the  inland 
channel,  among  the  more  shallow  waters  of  the  North 
Pacific,  and  in  some  portions  of  Bering  Sea.  They  often 
weigh  two  hundred   or  more  pounds,   and   one  of  the 


FISHERIES 


6l 


pleasures  of  tourists  is  catching  these  fish  from  the  deck 
of  the  steamer  while  lying  at  some  station. 

The  halibut  is  a  staple  article  of  diet,  both  fresh  and 
dried,  with  the  natives,  and  it  is  said  that  the  Alaskan 
halibut  will  compare  favourably  with,  if  they  do  not 
excel,  those  caught  on  the  Atlantic  coast. 

A  fishing  concern  in  Sitka  has  recently  put  up  a  limited 
amount  of  smoked  halibut,  and  it  has  proven  a  most  de- 
licious article  of  food.  Very  little  effort  has  yet  been 
made  to  force  the  sale,  but  the  curing  of  halibut  in  this 
way  may  ultimately  prove  one  of  the  leading  industries 
of  this  country. 

There  are  immense  schools  of  herring  in  most  of  the 
inland  waters  or  estuaries  of  Alaska,  and  they,  too,  form 
an  important  element  of  the  food  supply  of  the  natives. 
The  greatest  supply  is  found  at  Killisnoo,  on  the  west 
side  of  Admiralty  Island,  where,  some  fourteen  years 
ago,  the  largest  fish-oil  plant  in  the  world  was  erected. 
Herring  are  caught  by  means  of  seines,  and  a  single  haul 
of  twenty-five  hundred  barrels  has  been  taken.  After 
the  oil  is  pressed  from  the  fish,  the  refuse  is  put  up  as  a 
fertiliser  and  shipped  principally  to  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

The  oolakon,  or  candle-fish,  are  also  found  in  the  inland 
channels,  and  in  some  localities  of  the  North  Pacific 
coast.  They  are  a  species  of  smelt,  and  are  about  eight 
inches  long  and  almost  round.  They  are  so  oily  that, 
after  being  dried,  they  can  be  lighted  and  will  burn  com- 
pletely up,  throwing  a  glimmer  like  a  candle,  as  their 
name  implies.  The  natives  use  the?c  fish  in  greater 
numbers  perhaps  tlian  any  other  variety.  When  boiled, 
they  have  a  delicious  flavour,  and  are  tender  and  delight- 


!   ,      t 


I  I 


62 


ALASA'A 


fully  sweet.  The  oil  is  considered  a  raie  delicacy  by  the 
natives,  and  quite  an  industry  is  carried  on  with  those 
living  in  localities  far  remote  from  this  fish  supply. 

Most  of  the  varieties  of  fish  found  on  the  Pacific  coast, 
together  with  clams,  mussels,  and  crabs,  are  found  in  great 
abundance  in  all  the  waters  of  Alaska,  but  oysters  do  not 
exist,  probably  on  account  of  the  low  temperature  of  the 
water. 


1^1 


II 


CHAPTER  VI 


LAND   AND   SEA   ANIMALS 


LASKA,   in  a   peculiar  sense, 

is   the   home   of    fur-bearing 

imals.      It   abounds  in  "  fish, 

,  and  ^owl."     The  bays  and 

ilets  teem  with  aquatic  birds 

and  animals,  and  the  land  is 

the  home  of  the  bear,  wolf, 

deer,  cariboo,  moose,  fox, 

\^  wolverine,  and  many  oihers 

'■.;'.')i>,  widely  distributed. 

Early  in  the  history  of 
the  Russian  occupancy  of  Alaska,  the  sea-otter-skin 
traffic,  which  for  a  long  time  had  no  competitor,  began 
to  find  a  rival  of  magnitude  in  the  fur-seal  trade. 

In  1787,  the  year  succeeding  the  discovery  of  the  Pri- 
bilof  group  of  islands,  over  five  hundred  thousand  fur 
seals  were  killed  by  Russian  hunters,  and  the  figures  have 
even  been  placed  as  high  as  two  millions.  Whether  the 
latter  figures  are  exaggerated  or  not,  it  is  true  that 
twenty  years  from  that  time  the  fur  seal  had  almost 
entirely  disappeared  from  these  islands.  More  than  half 
of  the  skins  taken  on  the  Pribilof  Islands  were  thrown 

63 


v;   tl 


i  n 
'  1 


|:  |j|j|^||||;H^ 

B/i^^B 

f 

mi 
■  '  '  I'  ■ 

,  V 

■k 

tM 


:||l 

lii' 

i 

p 

li; 

i      1 

Mi 

64 


ALASA'A 


into  the  sea  in  an  advanced  stage  of  decomposition, 
because  of  careless  curing,  and  the  waters  were  so  poisoned 
as  to  drive  away  the  seals  for  several  successive  seasons. 

Chinese  merchants  trading  on  the  Siberian  frontier 
placed  a  high  value  upon  these  skins,  and  frequently  re- 
fused to  exchange  teas  with  the  Russian  traders  for  any 
other  commodity.  When  the  Russian-American  Com- 
pany obtained  exclusive  control  of  the  Russian  posses- 
sions in  America,  the  fur  seals  were  so  nearly  destroyed 
that  for  a  time  the  new  company's  traffic  was  quite  in- 
significant. A  prompt  and  efficient  remedy  was  at  once 
applied,  by  prohibiting  the  killing  of  seals  for  five  years, 
from  1807  to  18 12.  At  the  expiration  of  that  time  the 
shy  animals  had  returned,  sufficiently  recuperated  to 
afford      continuous  and  reliable  source  of  revenue. 

The  art  of  plucking  and  dyeing  seal  skins  was  invented 
by  the  Chinese.  The  exact  date  when  this  process  was 
adopted  by  the  English  is  unknown,  but  it  occurred  some 
time  during  the  first  half  of  the  nineteenth  century,  as  a 
regular  demand  for  seal  skins  can  be  traced  from  that 
time.  Shipments  directly  to  New  York  and  London 
were  inaugurated  about  1850,  and  these  shipments  con- 
tinued at  the  rate  of  from  twenty  thousand  to  sixty  thou- 
sand skins  per  annum,  until  the  transfer  of  the  Russian 
possessions  to  the  United  States,  which  occurred  in  1867. 

When  the  question  of  acquiring  Russian  America  was 
discussed  in  Congress,  no  particular  stress  was  laid  upon 
the  prospective  value  of  the  fur-seal  industry,  though  it 
was  known  to  be  one  of  the  principal  sources  of  revenue 
to  the  Russian-American  Company.  During  the  last 
decade  of  Russian  ownership,  the  agents  in  charge  of  the 


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5 


e 


u 


LAND  AXD   SEA    AXIMALS 


65 


Pribilof  Islands  reported  each  year  that  the  fur  seals  were 
increasing  in  such  numbers  that  the  rookeries  were 
crowded  beyond  their  capacity.  Each  report  was  ac- 
companied by  urgent  requests  to  be  permitted  to  kill 
more  seals,  to  make  room  for  the  increasing  millions. 
The  fact  that  it  was  possible  to  continue  the  slaughter  at 
the  rate  of  one  hundred  thousand  per  annum  for  twenty 
years  after  our  purchase,  seems  to  prove  that  when  the 
United  States  acquired  these  valuable  islands  the  indus- 
try was  in  as  prospfirous  condition  as  when  discovered  by 
Pribilof  in  1786. 

The  radical  restrictions  of  late  years  limiting  the  num- 
ber of  seals  to  be  killed  annually  to  one  hundred  thou- 
sand were  based  upon  careful  observations  and  estimates; 
but  the  indiscriminate  slaughter  inaugurated  within  the 
past  few  years  by  sealing  vessels  from  British  Columbia, 
which  encountered  the  migrating  animals  on  their  way  to 
the  breeding-grounds,  and  killed  males  and  females  alike, 
has  fully  justified  the  still  more  radical  restrictions  since 
made. 

The  only  hauling  or  breeding  grounds  of  the  fur  seal 
known  in  Alaska  are  upon  the  islands  of  St.  Paul  and 
St.  George.  On  the  Otter  Islands  these  animals  occa- 
sionally haul  up,  but  do  not  breed.  The  Pacific  and 
Antarctic  Oceans  have  been  scoured  by  sealers  and  emis- 
saries of  trading  firms,  in  search  of  supposed  "  winter 
homes  "  of  the  fur  seal;  but  at  the  present  day  the  fact 
seems  to  be  established  that,  after  leaving  their  confined 
breeding-places,  they  scatter  over  the  broad  Pacific  to 
locations  where  extensive  elevations  of  the  bottom  of  the 
sea  enable  them  to  subsist  upon  fish  until  the  instinct  of 

5 


i; 

t 

■  ■  i  \ 

V 

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\A 


\  i\ 


f  :      i 


66 


ALASKA 


reproduction  calls  them  again  from  all  directions  to  their 
common  rendezvous. 

The  killing  of  fur  seals  is  done  altogether  on  land,  and 
has  been  reduced,  through  long  observation  and  practice, 
to  a  science.  Under  the  present  lease  the  company  has 
been  restricted  to  kill  only  7500  each  year  until  1896. 
when  the  number  was  increased  to  30,000,  and  in  1897 
and  1898  only  about  20,000  were  killed  each  year.  The 
only  individuals  permitted  to  do  the  work  are  the  able- 
bodied  Aleutian  hunters  now  living  on  the  islands,  whose 
ancestors  were  brought  from  the  Aleutian  Islands  by  the 
Russian  Government.  Life-long  practice  has  made  them 
expert  in  using  their  huge  clubs  and  sharp  skinnint,^ 
knives,  both  instruments  being  manufactured  expressly 
for  this  purpose.  These  men  are  proud  of  their  skill 
as  sealers,  and  will  not  demean  themselves  by  doing  any 
other  kind  of  work. 

The  labour  connected  with  the  killing  of  seals  may  be 
divided  into  two  distinct  processes :  the  separation  of  the 
seals  of  a  certain  age  and  size  from  the  main  body  and 
their  removal  to  the  killing  ground  ;  and  the  final  process. 
of  making  another  sorting  among  the  select,  and  killinjj; 
and  skinning  them.  A  damp,  cloudy  day  is  especially 
desirable  for  both  driving  and  killing. 

The  young  male  seals,  to  the  age  of  four  years,  invari- 
ably segregate  themselves  in  the  rear  of  the  so-called 
rookeries — or  groups  of  families — that  line  the  seashore; 
and  the  experienced  native  crawls  in  between  the  families 
and  these  "  bachelors."  This  is  accomplished  without 
difficulty,  and  the  animals  are  driven  inland,  in  droves  of 
from  one  to  three  thousand  each,  very  slowly,  lest  the 


i;    i. 


:]:l 


a 


foul 
allc 


stril 
Otll 
stal 


raij| 
co\ 
CaJ 
tlu 


T1 


LAND  AND  SEA   ANIATALS 


67 


animals  become  overheated  and  injure  the  quality  of 
their  skins.  When  the  slaughter  ground  is  reached, 
twenty  or  thirty  seals  are  separated  from  their  fellows,  in 
quick  succession  surrounded  by  their  executioners  armed 
with  clubs,  and  the  killing  begins.  The  experienced  eye 
of  the  Aleut  quickly  discovers  if  the  seal  is  either  under 
or  above  the  specified  age  or  size,  and  if  such  an  one  be 


found,  he  is  dismissed  with  a  gentle  tap  on  the  nose,  and 
allowed  to  make  his  way  to  the  shore  and  escape. 

The  men  with  clubs  proceed  from  one  group  to  another, 
striking  the  seals  violently  on  the  head  to  stun  them. 
Others  immediately  follow  with  long,  sharp  knives,  and 
stab  each  stunned  seal  to  the  heart,  to  insure  immediate 
death.  Then  the  skinners  come,  and  with  astonishing 
rapidity  divest  the  carcasses  of  their  rich  and  valuable 
covering,  leaving,  however,  the  head  and  flippers  intact. 
Carts,  drawn  by  mules,  follow  the  skinners,  and  into 
these  the  pelts  are  thrown  to  be  carried  away  to  the  salt- 


!|| 


11 


I 


! 


i:     ,  1: 


m\ 


"  \\ 


I  '1 


'1 


68 


ALA  SKA 


houses,  and  salted  down  for  the  time  being  like  fish  in 
barrels.  Later,  after  pressure  is  applied,  they  are  rolled 
in  bundles  of  two  each,  with  the  fur  inside,  securely 
strapped,  and  are  then  ready  for  shipment.  The  wives 
and  daughters  of  the  sealers  linger  around  the  bloody 
field  and  reap  a  rich  harvest  of  luscious  blubber,  carrying 
it  away  on  their  heads  and  shoulders,  the  oil  dripping 
down  over  their  faces  and  garments. 

The  conference  over  the  fur-seal  controversy  between 
Great  Britain  and  the  United  States  in  Paris,  in  1893,  re- 
sulted disastrously  to  us.  The  contention  made  by  the 
United  States  that  Bering  Sea  was  a  closed  sea,  and  there- 
fore our  private  water,  was  set  aside  by  this  commission, 
and  we  had  to  yield  the  point  that  we  could  not  protect 
the  seals  in  the  open  water  of  the  sea,  without  other 
nations  joining  with  us. 

Accordingly,  a  limit  of  sixty  miles  from  the  islands 
was  established,  and  any  vessel  detected  hunting  seals 
within  this  district  was  confiscated.  The  hunting  of  seals 
was  restricted  to  spears,  and  vessels  caught  with  firearms 
of  any  description  aboard  were  seized. 

The  United  States  Government  for  four  years  prior  to 
1898  had  six  revenue  cutters  patrolling  the  sea  each  sum- 
mer, while  Great  Britain  had  been  represented  most  of 
the  time  by  a  single  man-of-war. 

From  the  first  year  that  these  regulations  were  adopted, 
the  number  of  American  sealers  has  decreased  and  those 
of  Great  Britain  increased,  so  that  n*;,e-tenths  of  the  ves- 
sels engaged  in  sealing  in  1897  sailed  under  the  flag  of 
Great  Britain. 

As  a  matter  of  fact,  England  derived  the  most  benefit 


i^iL^ 


LAND  AND   SEA   ANIMALS 


69 


from  this  industry.  The  seals  killed  at  the  seal  islands 
are  shipped  to  London,  where  they  are  dressed  and  tanned 
by  what  is  supposed  to  be  a  secret  process.  Nine-tenths 
of  all  skins  taken  in  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  Bering  Sea  by 
pelagic  sealers  were  shipped  to  London  and  sold ;  so 
that,  practically,  England  is  the  only  country  deriving  any 
benefit  from  these  islands  so  far  as  concerns  the  skin  in 
the  raw  state. 

Ever  since  the  question  arose  as  to  what  should  be 
done  to  protect  the  seals  from  utter  extermination,  there 
has  been  no  doubt  that  vigorous  measures  should  be 
adopted  to  protect  them.  British  Columbia  alone  has 
taken  the  opposite  view,  and  the  secret  of  her  opposition 
to  this  measure  has  been  that  it  was  an  industry  engaged 
in  largely  by  Canadians;  and  this  opposition  has  wielded 
great  influence  with  the  British  Government,  otherwise 
they  would  doubtless  have  joined  with  the  United  States 
in  absolutely  suppressing  pelagic  sealing  immediately 
after  the  decision  of  the  Paris  Tribunal. 

Three  years  ago,  the  late  Mr,  Dingley  of  Maine  intro- 
duced a  bill  in  the  House  which  passed  that  body  but 
never  reached  the  Senate  for  action.  It  provided  that  if 
England  did  not  at  once  join  with  the  United  States  to 
suppress  the  killing  of  seals  in  the  open  waters  of  Bering 
Sea  and  the  Pacific,  the  United  States  would  proceed 
to  kill  oft  every  seal  upon  the  islands,  and  this  would 
have  resulted  in  their  utter  and  complete  extermination. 

Many  seals  are  caught  upon  the  Japan  coast  in  the 
spring  of  the  year,  and  Russia  owns  an  island  in  West 
Bering  Sea  where  seals  go  annually  to  breed. 

The  lease  of  the  fur-seal  islands  now  lield  by  the  North 


(i  , 


;.^^r 


i,:; 


m 


I  i 


I         :>l 


I    'M 


70 


ALAS/CA 


\^ 


If 


American  Commercial  Company  will  not  expire  until 
1910,  during  which  time  this  monopoly  will  undoubtedly 
make  millions  of  dollars. 

In  the  spring  of  1898  Congress  passed  a  law  absolutely 
prohibiting  the  importation  into  the  United  States  of 
raw  or  dressed  fur-seal  skins.  This  has  had  the  effect  of 
almost  entirely  destroying  the  practice  of  hunting  seals 
by  both  the  American  and  British  vessels,  but  the  price 
of  fur-seal  garments  has  as  yet  advanced  but  little  as  a 
result  of  this  prohibitive  measure.  This  law  will  certainly 
result  in  an  increase  of  the  fur-seal  animals,  and  it  is  to 
be  hoped  that  it  will  not  be  repealed  until  the  United 
States  and  Great  Britain  can  mutually  agree  upon  some 
measure  that  will  prevent  the  extinction  of  this  beautiful 
animal,  which  was  so  seriously  threatened  before  the 
adoption  of  this  stringent  measure. 

Whether  one  effect  of  this  law  will  be  to  destroy  the 
popular  demand  for  fur-seal  garments  in  the  United 
States,  where  they  are  more  used  than  in  any  other 
country,  remains  to  be  seen,  but  in  all  probability  it  will 
always  remain  the  choice  fur,  as  it  has  no  other  rival  in 
beauty  and  comfort,  unless  it  be  the  sable,  which  is  too 
scarce  and  too  expensive  to  be  universally  popular. 

The  sea  otter  seems  to  exist  chiefly  on  a  line  parallel 
with  the  Japanese  current,  from  the  coast  of  Japan  along 
the  Kurile  Islands  to  the  coast  of  Kamtchatka,  and  thence 
westward  along  the  Aleutian  chain,  the  southward  side 
of  the  Alaska  peninsula,  the  estuaries  of  Cook  Inlet  and 
Prince  William  Sound,  thence  eastward  and  southward 
along  the  Alaska  coast,  the  Alexander  Archipelago,  lirit- 
ish  Columbia.  Washington,  and  Oregon.     But  it  is  be- 


r^ 


LAND  AND  SEA   ANIMALS 


71 


coming  scarcer  each  year,  owing  to  the  recklessness  with 
which  it  has  been  hunted  and  killed.  Three  distinct 
times  during  the  existence  of  the  Russian-American 
Company  their  agents  in  the  Kurile  Islands  have  reported 
the  sea  otter  extinct,  but  each  time  it  has  appeared  again, 
after  a  few  years'  respite  from  hunting.  They  change 
from  one  feeding  ground  to  another.  At  the  present 
date,  about  the  Kurile  Islands  and  Kamtchatka,  few  z  :c 
killed  annually,  and  Attu  Island,  and  several  smaller 
islands,  which  formerly  furnished  many  hundred  sea- 
otter  skins  every  year,  now  produce  less  than  a  dozen 
skins  in  the  same  time.  The  outl\-ing  reefs  of  Atka, 
also,  once  furnished  an  abundant  supply  of  these  skins, 
but  are  now  entirely  deserted.  From  the  island  of 
Unimak  eastward,  however,  sea  otter  has  become  more 
plentiful,  and  within  a  radius  of  fifty  miles  of  the  island 
about  five  hundred  are  taken  annually.  But  the  hunting 
is  carried  on  recklessly  by  whites  and  natives  alike,  with 
firearms,  in  direct  violation  of  the  law.  They  are  still 
found  in  the  waters  of  the  Kadiak  Archipelago,  as  well 
as  in  the  southern  portion  of  Cook  Inlet. 

The  land  otter  is  one  of  the  most  widely  distributed 
fur-bearing  animals  in  Alaska,  unless  we  except  the  fox. 
The  land  otter  is  found  on  the  whole  coast  of  Alaska, 
from  the  southern  boundary  to  Norton  Sound.  Within 
the  Arctic  circle  it  is  confined  to  the  upper  portions  of 
the  rivers  emptying  into  Kot/.ebue  Sound  and  the  Arctic 
Ocean  ;  and  it  is  also  found  along  the  whole  course  of  the 
Yukon,  and,  so  far  as  known,  in  nearly  all  parts  of  the 
Alaska  peninsula,  the  Kadiak  Archipelago,  and  the  coast 
from  Mt.  St.  Elias  to  the  southern  boundary'. 


1  ' ' 
1  . 1 


11 


t 


5 


I       ! 


"fTWW 


I 


'i 


72 


ALASK'A 


There  has  been  a  great  decline,  both  in  the  supply  and 
demand  for  beaver,  during  the  last  fifty  years.  Once  it 
was  the  most  important  among  the  fur-bearing  animals 
of  continental  Alaska.  This  animal  has  frequently  suf- 
fered from  the  excessive  and  prolonged  cold  of  the  Arctic 
winter,  in  the  interior  country  ntrth  of  Cook  Inlet  and 
the  Yukon.  The  ice  in  the  river  and  lakes  has  formed  so 
rapidly,  and  to  such  a  thickness  at  times,  that  the  animals 
found  it  impossible  to  keep  open  the  approaches  to  their 
dwellings  under  water,  and  died  of  starvation  before 
spring.  Hundreds  of  putrefying  carcasses  have  been 
found  by  natives  in  the  beaver  lodges.  Old  beaver-dams 
scattered  over  the  continental  portion  of  Alaska  testify 
to  the  former  abundance  of  the  animal.  Though  now 
hundreds  are  taken  where  formerly  thousands  were 
captured,  and  notwithstanding  the  demand  has  lessened, 
the  number  of  animals  has  not  increased. 

When  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  were  lords  of  the 
entire  North-west  American  continent,  the  skins  of  these 
animals  represented  the  value  of  an  English  shilling,  and 
were  used  and  accepted  as  common  currency.  The  pre- 
sent price  of  a  beaver  skin  of  average  size,  in  Alaska,  is 
from  six  to  twelve  dollars.  The  Indians  of  the  interior 
and  a  few  of  the  Eskimo  tribes  look  upon  the  flesh  of  the 
beaver  as  a  great  delicacy.  It  is  a  dish  which  they 
always  set  before  honoured  guests,  and  is  also  much  used 
in  festivities.  The  long  incisors  of  the  beaver  are  made 
into  chisels,  small  adzes,  and  other  tools,  for  the  working 
of  wood  and  bone. 

The  brown  bear,  a  huge,  shaggy  animal,  is  found  in 
nearly  every  section  of  the  Territory.     The  northern  limit 


LAND  AND  SEA  ANIMALS 


73 


of  it:«  habitat  is  about  sixty-seven  degrees  north  latitude. 
It  prefers  an  open,  swampy  country  to  the  timber.  The 
brown  bear  is  an  expert  fisher,  and  during  the  salmon 
season  it  frequents  all  the  rivers  and  their  tributaries 
emptying  into  Bering  Sea  and  the  North  Pacific.  At  the 
end  of  the  annual  salmon  run,  it  retreats  to  the  tundra, 
where  berries  and  small  game  are  plentiful.  This  animal 
has  been  called  the  road-maker  of  Alaska,  for  not  only 
are  swampy  plains,  leading  to  the  easiest  fording  places 
of  streams  and  rivers,  intersected  by  his  paths,  but  the 
hills  and  ridges  of  mountains  are  also  marked  by  his  foot- 
steps. The  largest  specimens  are  found  at  Cook  Inlet. 
On  its  west  side  they  can  be  seen  in  herds  of  twenty-five 
or  thirty.  From  the  fact  that  their  skins  are  not  very 
valuable,  and  also  that  they  are  of  fierce  disposition, 
they  are  little  hunted.  Before  attempting  to  kill  one, 
the  native  hunter  invariably  addresses  a  few  compliment- 
ary remarks  to  his  intended  victim. 

The  Thlinkits  have  a  tradition,  told  them  by  the  sha- 
mans, that  the  brown  bear  is  a  man  who  has  assumed  the 
shape  of  an  animal.  The  tradition  relates  that  this  secret 
of  nature  first  became  known  through  the  daughter  of  a 
chief.  The  girl  went  into  the  woods  to  gather  berries, 
and  incautiously  spoke  in  terms  of  ridicule  of  a  bear, 
whose  traces  she  observed  in  her  path.  In  punishment 
for  her  levity,  she  was  decoyed  into  the  bear's  lair  and 
there  compelled  to  marry  him  and  assume  the  form  of  a 
bear  herself.  After  her  husband  and  her  ursine  child 
had  been  killed  by  her  Thlinkit  brethren,  .le  returned 
to  her  home  in  her  former  shape  and  related  her  advent- 
ures.    In  deference  to  this  generally  received  supersti- 


'! 


')| 


74 


ALASKA 


tion,  when  the  natives  run  across  bear  tracks  in  the  woods, 
they  immediately  say  the  most  charming  and  compli- 
mentary things  of  bears  in  general,  and  their  visitor  in 
particular. 

The  black  bear  generally  confine?  himself  to  timbei 
and  mountain  regions.  He  e.xiscs  on  a  few  islands  in 
Prince  William  Sound,  and  on  Kadiak  Island,  and  is 
found  on  rivers  emptying  into  the  Arctic,  and  is  plentiful 
southward  to  the  valley  of  the  Yukon.  The  skins  com- 
mand high  prices,  and  are  increasing  in  value  yearly. 
The  animals  are  shy,  and  great  ':ill  and  patience  are  re- 
quired to  hunt  them.  Like  brown  bear,  they  are 
expert  fishers,  wading  into  the  streams  and,  as  a  salmon 
comes  along,  they  strike  with  dextrous  paw  and  land  their 
fish  on  the  bank,  where  it  furnishes  a  toothsome  feast. 
Unlike  the  brown  bear,  however,  the  natives  do  not  fear 
them  in  the  least.  The  glossiest  and  largest  of  black- 
bear  skins  come  from  the  St.  Elias  Alpine  range  and 
Prince  VV^illiam  Sound,  but  the  black  bear  never  attains 
the  size  of  his  brown  relative. 

The  red  fox  's  found  in  every  section  of  Alaska.  In 
fact,  this  animal  seems  omnipresent.  It  varies  in  size 
and  in  the  quality  of  its  fur  from  a  specimen  as  large  as 
the  high-priced  Siberian  fire-fox,  to  the  ^mall,  yellow- 
tinged  creature  that  rambles  furtively  over  the  rocky 
islands  of  the  Aleutian  chain.  Like  a  poor  relalion,  he 
mingles  persistently  with  his  aristocratic  cousins,  the 
black  and  silver  foxes,  always  managing  in  course  of  time 
to  deteriorate  the-  blood  and  tarnish  the  coat  of  his  richer 
relative.  His  diet  is  heterogeneous,  fish,  flesh,  and  fowl 
being  equally  satisfactory  to  his  taste ;  nor  does  he  dis- 


111! 


LAND  AXD   SEA   ANIMALS 


75 


dain  shellfish,  mussels,  or  the  CL^gs  of  aquatic  birds.  He 
is  rarely  hunted  or  trapped  by  the  natives,  from  the  fact 
that  his  fur  is  cheap,  and  they  never  eat  his  flesh,  except 
when  driven  to  it  from  famine. 

The  king  of  the  vulpine  family  is  the  black  fo.\.  In 
the  mountain  fastnesses  of  the  interior,  and  on  the  head- 
waters of  the  large  rivers  he  is  found  in  his  prime.  He 
is  of  large  size,  with  long,  soft,  silky  fur.  He  is  also 
found  along  the  boundaries  between  Alaska  and  Ikitish 
Columbia,  in  the  country  of  the  Cliilkats,  the  Takus,  the 
upper  Copper  River,  upper  Yukon,  Tanana,  and  Kusko- 
quim  Rivers.  In  the  last  named  regions,  skins  may  be 
bought  from  ten  to  fifteen  dollars  each,  but  in  South-east 
Alaska,  where  competition  is  strong,  eighty  and  one  hun- 
dred dollars  each  is  frequently  paid  for  them.  Black 
foxes  are  also  found  on  the  seacoast,  on  the  shores  of 
Norton  Sound,  in  the  interior  of  Kotzebue  Sound,  along 
the  Yukon,  and  on  the  Colville  River.  They  are  quite 
plentiful  on  Kadiak  Island  and  most  of  the  Aleutian 
Islands ;  but  they  have  been  transported  by  man's  agency 
to  many  of  these  points. 

Along  the  south-western  coast  there  are  many  islands, 
removed  from  the  shore  a  few  miles,  uninhabited  and 
never  visited  by  natives.  In  a  number  of  instances  white 
men  have  gathered  a  few  pairs  of  blue,  black,  and  silver 
foxes,  when  young,  from  the  natives,  and  taken  them  to 
these  islands  and  turned  them  adrift.  They  arrange  with 
the  natives  to  carry  food  to  them  at  stated  periods,  and 
they  become  in  a  measure  tame.  They  increase  very 
rapidly,  and  in  three  or  four  years  become  a  source  of 
profitable  industry  for  the  projectors  of  the  enterprise. 


II: 


\'\ 


III 


m\\ 


76 


A  LAS  A' A 


On  the  seal  islands  the  propagation  of  the  blue  fox  has 
been  carried  on  under  the  protection  of  the  Government 
for  some  years,  only  a  cerc^  n  number  being  killed  each 
year.  The  blue  fox  was  first  discovered  on  the  Aleutian 
Islands  in  1741.  It  has  been  protected  against  intermix- 
ture with  other  and  inferior  foxes,  and  the  skins  are  of 
the  finest  quality  and  command  a  price  ranging  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  dollars  in  the  market. 

The  cross  fox  when  killed  in  its  prime  is  one  of  the 
prettiest  of  the  fox  family.  Its  fur  is  long  and  thick  and 
often  resembles  in  appearance  the  silver-grey  fox.  The 
market  value  is  from  eight  to  fifteen  dollars. 

Almost  the  only  high-priced  fur  found  in  the  Yukon 
basin  is  the  silver  fox,  and  it  forms  a  most  important 
element  in  the  trade  of  that  region. 

The  white  fox  is  found  along  the  continental  coast  of 
Alaska,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Kuskoquim  River  north- 
ward to  Point  Barrow.  Its  fur  is  snowy  white,  soft  and 
long,  but  is  not  durable;  hence  it  does  not  command  a 
high  price  in  the  market.  The  white  fox  is  fearless,  and 
will  enter  villages  and  dwellings  in  search  of  food,  or  out 
of  mere  curiosity.  It  will  eat  anj'thing  to  satisfy  hunger, 
and  in  the  depth  of  winter  the  natives  find  it  unsafe  to 
leave  any  article  of  clothing,  dog  harness,  or  boat  material 
where  these  thieving  little  animals  can  find  them. 

The  marten,  usually  called  by  fur  dealers  Hudson  Bay 
sable,  are  very  numerous  in  the  interior  and  in  Northern 
Alaska.  They  are  about  the  same  size  and  shape  as  the 
mink,  but  the  fur  is  much  longer  and  of  a  finer  texture. 
They  are  usually  of  a  lightish  brown  or  yellow  tint,  but 
are  sometimes  found  very  dark,  and  occasionally  one  is 


LAND  AND   SEA    ANIMALS 


lit 


17 


frund  almost  black;  there  being  little  difference  between 
it  and  the  much-prized  Russian  sable. 

Mink  are  plentiful  on  the  coast,  but  not  on  the  islands, 
excepting  those  of  Prince  William  Sound.  They  are  also 
abundant  on  the  Yukon  and  many  other  rivers.  The 
spell  of  fashion  has  made  this  skin  of  but  little  value ; 
but  within  the  past  two  years  it  has  become  more  popu- 
lar, and  in  a  few  years  it  may  be  as  fashionable  as  when, 
a  score  or  more  years  ago,  it  was  the  pride  of  every 
woman  to  possess  a  cape  made  from  the  fur  of  these 
pretty  animals. 

The  polar  bear  is  found  only  on  the  Arctic  coast  where 
there  are  large  bodies  of  ice.  With  the  moving  ice  fields 
he  enters  and  leaves  the  waters  of  Bering  Sea.  From 
fifty  to  one  hundred  of  these  animals  are  killed  yearly, 
principally  by  the  natives.  It  sometimes  happens,  when 
a  whale  that  has  been  struck  by  a  harpoon  and  not  killed 
in  time  dies  and  is  washed  ashore,  the  polar  bears  will 
come  from  all  directions,  drawn  by  the  scent  of  the  car- 
cass, and  feed  on  the  blubber.  Natives  then  come  upon 
them  with  their  crude  weapons  and  slay  them  in  large 
numbers. 

The  lynx  is  found  in  the  wooded  mountains,  and 
wolves,  both  grey  and  white,  are  plentiful,  but  rarely 
killed. 

Muskrats  abound  all  over  Alaska,  and  rabbits  and  mar- 
mots are  killed  for  their  flesh ;  the  nativ^es  use  the  skins 
of  the  former  for  clothing.  Especially  is  this  true  in  the 
Arctic  region,  as  the  reindeer,  the  animal  that  formerly 
supplied   them    with    skins    for   clothing,    are   fast   dis- 


appearm 


iji! 


'  r  I    ll 


i* 


\     %\ 


78 


ALASK-A 


Wolverines  are  plentiful  on  the  upper  Yukon  and  the 
lake  sections.  The  skins  are  rarely  exported,  as  a  ready 
market  is  found  among  the  inhabitants  of  the  coast  region 
of  the  Yukon  and  Kuskoquim,  who  prefer  this  shaggy, 
piebald  fur  to  any  other  trimming  for  their  wearing  ap- 
parel. This  skin  is  very  highly  prized  among  the  Eskimo, 
for  it  serves  as  an  excellent  protection  for  their  faces 
against  the  severe  blasts,  when  sewed  around  their  hoods. 

Deer  are  very  abundant,  especially  in  South-east  Alaska, 
where,  in  winter,  they  are  recklessly  slaughtered  for  their 
hides,  when  driven  to  the  coast  by  long-continued  snow. 
So  reckless  has  this  slaughter  become  that  there  is  great 
danger  of  their  being  exterminated,  unless  Congress 
passes  a  law  prohibiting  the  exportation  of  deer  hides 
from  the  Territory  for  a  number  of  years.  Deer  form  a 
large  supply  of  food  for  the  natives  of  South-east  Alaska ; 
and  the  wanton  manner  in  which  they  are  killed  bids  fair 
to  eliminate  a  food  product  of  vast  importance.  They 
are  hunted,  in  the  rutting  season,  by  a  call  made  from  a 
blade  of  grass  placed  between  two  strips  of  wood,  which 
produces  a  very  clever  imitation  of  the  cry  of  the  deer. 
This  call  leads  them  to  the  ambushed  hunter;  and  so 
deceptive  is  it  that  it  is  not  unusual  to  get  a  second  shot 
should  the  first  fail.  The  wolves  play  great  havoc  with 
the  deer;  and  it  is  remarkable  that  they  exist  in  such 
numbers  among  so  many  ruthless  enemies. 

Moose,  cariboo,  and  deer  are  found  in  the  upper  Yukon 
country,  and  especially  on  the  White  River  moose  arc 
reported  by  the  natives  to  be  plentiful  and  of  large  size. 

The  deer  of  the  Arctic  and  subarctic  regions  have  been 
confounded  with  the  reindeer  of  other  localities.     While 


TT 


LAND  AND   SEA    ANIMALS 


79 


they  certainly  belong  to  the  same  family,  they  are  what  is 
called  the  barren  ground  cariboo,  which  differs  from  the 
upland  cariboo  and  domesticated  reindeer,  being  smaller 
in  body  and  horns. 

The  mountain  sheep  and  goat  are  found  along  the 
highest  mountains  of  the  coast  and  in  the  interior,  in 
droves  of  twenty  or  more.  They  seem  to  prefer  the 
highest  altitudes  and  most  precipitous  steeps.  Their 
wool  is  long  and  fine,  and  when  nicely  cleansed  and  tanned 
makes  beautiful  rugs.  The  horns  of  the  sheep  are  made 
into  bowls  and  ladles  by  the  natives;  and  many  rare  and 
beautiful  pieces  worked  up  in  this  way  find  ready  pur- 
chasers in  tourists. 

Bald  and  grey  eagles  are  numerous  throughout  South- 
east Alaska,  and  are  also  found  to  some  extent  in  the 
interior  wherever  there  is  large  timber.  The  natives  kill 
them  in  large  numbers  and  pluck  the  feathers,  leaving 
nothing  but  the  down.  When  cleansed  the  skins  are 
sewed  together,  about  thirty  of  them  being  required  to 
make  a  robe,  which  is  at  once  rich  and  beautiful. 

Humming-birds  in  large  numbers,  having  the  delicate 
plumage  of  those  found  in  warmer  climates,  flit  from 
bush  to  bush  in  South-east  Alaska.  Native  boys  tie  small 
pieces  of  red  flannel  on  a  limb,  and  cover  them  thickly 
with  pitch.  The  bright  colour  attracts  the  tiny  birds, 
who  alight  on  the  flannel.  Their  little  feet  adhere  so 
tenaciously  to  the  pitch  that  they  cannot  extricate  them- 
selves, so  they  become  an  easy  prey  to  the  youngsters 
u'ho  trap  them,  only  to  worry  them  to  death  with  savage 
cruelty. 

In  all  the  waters  of  Alaska,  whether  in  the  south-eastern 


J 


r    i  j] 


1  ■  i 


li 


80 


ALASKA 


country,  the  interior,  or  Arctic  rcj^ions,  ducks  and  geese 
in  every  variety  are  found  in  vast  numbers.  Alaska  ap- 
pears to  be  especially  adapted  as  a  natural  breeding 
ground.  The  smaller  varieties  of  land  and  timber  birds 
are  as  numerous  as  the  water  fowl,  and  the  graceful 
swan  are  found  in  large  numbers  in  many  parts  of  the 
Territory. 

In  Arctic  Alaska  the  disappearance  of  the  snow  and  ice 
is  immediately  followed  by  the  arrival  of  birds  from  the 
south  in  large  numbers,  and  in  a  few  weeks  the  Eskimos 
revel  in  the  variety  and  number  of  eggs  found  among  the 
grass  and  tundra.  Besides  the  wholesale  robbing  of  nests 
for  eggs,  the  young  fledglings  are  eaten  by  the  Eskimos 
with  a  keen  relish.  Their  stay  is  brief,  however,  for 
none,  save  the  most  hardy  of  the  Arctic  birds,  remain  to 
pass  the  long  months  of  winter  in  this  region. 

The  species  of  whale  known  as  the  beluga  or  white 
grampus  is  native  in  the  deep  waters  and  has  been  known 
to  ascend  some  of  the  larger  rivers.  The  skin  of  this 
mammal  is  employed  by  the  natives  in  the  manufacture 
of  rope,  straps,  and  soles  of  boots. 

The  hair  seal  is  found  in  great  numbers  in  the  waters 
throughout  the  whole  Territory,  and,  as  is  well  known, 
constitutes  the  principal  food  supply  of  the  natives,  and 
especially  is  this  true  among  those  living  in  the  far  north. 
They  delight  to  frequent  the  waters  of  Glacier  Bay,  and 
the  natives  hunt  them  much  easier  among  the  bergs  of 
ice  than  in  the  waters  of  the  ocean.  A  white  cloth  is 
spread  over  the  bow  of  the  canoe,  giving  it  the  appear- 
ance of  a  piece  of  ice,  and  the  natives,  dressed  in  jacket 
and  hat  of  the  same  material,  paddling  among  the  ice. 


LAND   AND   SEA    ANIMALS 


8i 


are  thus  enabled  to  get  within  easy  range  of  their  prey- 
before  it  detects  the  deception. 

The  walrus,  a  native  of  Bering  Sea  and  the  Arctic, 
travels  in  herds,  and  in  the  long  days  of  summer  may  be 
seen  in  large  numbers  lying  lazily  on  the  ice.  The  skin 
of  this  animal  is  used  by  the  natives  as  covering  for  their 
boats,  and  the  tusks  are  worked  up  into  implements  of 
the  chase  and  hunt,  but  this  animal  is  rapidly  being 
exterminated. 

Black  whale  are  found  in  all  the  deep  waters,  and  may 
be  seen  sporting  even  in  the  inland  passages.  It  is  not 
uncommon  for  schools  of  this  animal  to  be  seen  from  the 
deck  of  the  tourist  steamers. 

Whale  may  be  considered  as  one  of  the  resources  of 
Alaska,  and  in  the  northern  region  they  have  for  ages 
formed  the  principal  food  supply  of  the  Eskimos. 

The  species  of  whale  known  as  black  whale  has  little 
commercial  value,  and  are  caught  by  the  whites  only  for 
the  little  oil  that  may  be  obtained  from  them.  Its  pre- 
sent market  value  does  not  justify  the  expense  incurred  in 
their  capture  and  the  trying  out  of  the  blubber  aboard 
the  vessel. 

Whalebone  is  found  in  the  black  whale,  but  is  short, 
coarse,  and  of  little  or  no  value.  The  kind  used  so  much 
in  the  manufacture  of  corsets,  whips,  and  other  articles 
is  found  only  in  the  right  and  bowhead  whale.  From 
two  hundred  to  two  thousand  pounds  of  bone  are  found 
in  a  single  whale,  according  to  its  size,  and  its  market 
value  is  about  three  dollars  per  pound.  Five  years  ago 
it  reached  as  high  as  six  dollars  per  pound,  but  this 
was  the  result  of  a  corner  in  the  market,  and  the  price 

6 


\<: 


i 


82 


A  LAS  A' A 


quickly  dropped  to  three  dollars,  where  it  has  remained 
ever  since. 

In  the  past  few  years  many  substitutes  have  been  in- 
vented designed  to  take  the  place  of  whalebone,  and 
while  what  is  known  as  featherbone  answers  an  excellent 
purpose,  nothing  has  yet  been  found  that  is  so  light  and 
flexible  as  the  bone  of  the  whale. 

Whalebone  is  found  in  the  upper  jaw,  and  extends 
backward  on  both  sides  of  the  mouth.  It  grows  in  layers 
from  six  to  sixteen  inches  wide  at  the  butt,  gradually 
tapering  off  to  a  point,  and  is  from  two  to  twelve  feet 
long,  according  to  the  size  of  the  whale. 

On  account  of  the  high  price  of  bone,  the  hunting  of 
whale  for  the  past  ten  years  has  been  done  principally 
with  steam  vessels,  and  it  has  been  prosecuted  with  such 
vigour  that  they  have  been  driven  almost  entirely  out  of 
Bering  Sea,  and  are  now  found,  as  a  rule,  only  after  pass- 
ing through  Bering  Strait.  The  close  pursuit  of  the 
whale  has  resulted  in  their  seeking  the  region  near  the 
Mackenzie  River  as  a  rendezvous  or  feeding  ground,  and 
of  late  vessels  winter  in  this  region  in  order  to  be  ready 
for  the  whale's  appearance  in  these  waters  the  following 
summer. 

Within  the  next  few  years,  if  the  pursuit  of  the  whale 
continues,  they  are  destined  to  utter  annihilation.  The 
past  fifty  years  has  witnessed  the  transfer  of  the  whaling 
fleet  from  the  Atlantic  and  eastern  Arctic  Oceans  to  the 
other  side  of  the  continent,  but  an  occasional  whale  is 
caught  in  those  waters  and  in  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Horn. 

Less  than  twenty  vessels  are  now  engaged  in  whaling, 
while  ten  years  ago  over  fifty  were  following  the  hazard- 


m 


LAND   AND   SEA    ANIMALS 


83 


ous  vocation  of  hunting  these  animals  among  the  ice. 
Not  a  season  passed  without  the  loss  of  one  or  more 
vessels,  and  in  the  summer  of  1877  over  twenty  were 
wrecked  in  the  ice  above  Bering  Strait.  This  catastrophe 
led  to  the  establishment  of  a  rescue  station  by  the  Gov- 
ernment at  Point  Barrow,  the  most  northern  point  of 
Alaska.  It  was  provisioned  with  supplies  sufficient  to 
last  one  hundred  men  a  year,  but,  as  the  cost  of  main- 
taining the  station  was  considerable,  it  was  abandoned 
two  years  ago. 

It  may  be  interesting  while  noting  some  of  the  re- 
sources of  Alaska  to  mention  the  value  of  some  of  its 
exports  since  the  United  States  acquired  possession.  It 
will  serve  to  show  that  the  vast  and  varied  resources  of 
our  great  northern  possessions  are  worthy  of  more  than  a 
passing  word.  The  following  table,  carefully  compiled 
from  official  records,  will  show  that  the  purchase  of 
Alaska  was  not  only  a  shrewd  piece  of  diplomatic  sagac- 
ity, but  that  Seward's  "  ice-box"  has  proven  a  most 
profitable  investment : 

Furs $54,000,000 

Canned  Salmon 13,000,000 

Whalebone 11 ,000,000 

Gold  and  Silver 20,000,000 

Whale  Oil 3,500,000 

Codfish 2,000,000 

Salted  Salmon i  ,000,000 

Ivory 175.000 

Total $104,675,000 


kr<'  n 


i   V:   ;      , 

i                [ 

'            I 

MM 

i  n 


CHAPTER  VII 


REINDEER 


NINE  years  ago  the  United  States  revenue  cutter 
Bear,  which  was  detailed  by  the  Government  to 
patrol  the  Arctic,  to  render  assistance  to  the  whaling 
vessels  if  they  should  be  nipped  in  the  ice,  had  occasion 
to  pass  within  sight  of  a  little  island  in  North  Bering 
Sea,  about  ♦'-^rty  miles  from  the  coast,  known  as  King's 
Island.  The  man  on  the  lookout  noticed  a  boat  loaded 
with  Eskimos  put  off  from  the  island  and  paddle  toward 
the  vessel.  .  As  soon  as  it  came  alongside,  the  occupants 
made  known  to  the  captain  that  they  were  in  a  starving 
condition.  An  officer  was  at  once  sent  ashore,  and  soon 
returning  he  reported  that  the  people  were  so  reduced 
for  food  that  they  had  been  living  for  some  weeks  on 
their  Eskimo  dogs.  There  are  about  three  hundred 
Eskimos  on  this  island,  and  they  live  in  huts  dug  into 
the  side  of  a  mountain,  gaining  an  entrance  and  passing 
from  one  to  another  by  means  of  pole  ladders.  Though 
difficult  of  access,  the  location  of  the  huts  affords  protec- 
tion from  the  severe  winds  and  cold  of  the  long  winter. 
For  eight  months  in  the  year  the  ice  absolutely  prevents 
the  natives  from  having  any  communication  with  those 
on  shore,  and  they  only  come  in  contact  with  them  when 

84 


I 


ESKIMO  VILLAGE  ON  KING'S  ISLAND,  NORTH  BERING  SEA. 


!    fl 


and 
out  rJ 
exteri 
Arctfi 
thev 


REINDEER 


85 


they  venture  across  the  water  in  their  skin  boats  during 
the  brief  summer. 

A  few  years  ago  the  walrus  existed  in  large  numbers 
throughout  all  this  region.  The  whalers  on  their  way 
north  have  hunted  them  so  closely  that  they  have  prac- 
tically exterminated  them.  The  walrus  travel  in  herds, 
hauling  out  on  the  ice,  sleeping  and  basking  in  the  sun, 
and  in  this  condition  become  an  easy  prey  to  the  white 
man  with  his  breech-loading  rifle.  They  are  hunted  by 
the  whalers  simply  for  their  ivory  tusks,  a  pair  of  them 
weighing  from  two  to  twenty  pounds,  and  having  a 
value  of  only  about  fifty  cents  per  pound.  The  natives 
use  the  ivory  of  the  walrus  in  the  manufacture  of  many 
of  their  implements  of  the  hunt  and  chase,  the  skin  for 
tents  and  coverings  for  their  boats  and  canoes,  and  eat 
the  flesh  and  oil,  which  they  consider  a  delicacy. 

Five  or  six  years  ago  it  was  not  an  uncommon  thing 
for  a  party  of  Eskimos  to  put  out  in  a  skin  boat,  and  with 
their  crude  harpoons  and  spears  capture  a  whale;  but  the 
American  whalers  have  so  closely  pursued  them,  that 
now  they  are  only  found  a  long  distance  north  of  the 
last  settlement.  During  the  spring  of  1897  but  one 
whale  was  caught  by  the  Eskimos  for  many  miles  north 
and  south  of  Bering  Strait. 

Since  the  advent  of  the  whalers  many  natives  have 
bought  muzzle-'^^uing  rifles  and  ammunition  from  them, 
and  have  hunted  the  wild  reindeer,  killing  them  of?  with- 
out regard  to  age  or  sex,  until  they,  too,  are  practically 
exterminated.  A  few  years  ago  they  roamed  all  through 
Arctic  Alaska  in  large  herds,  but  in  the  past  few  years 
they  have  been  seldom  killed  by  these  people.     Thus  it 


i  i' 


1  \\ 


y\\ 


86 


ALASKA 


will  be  seen  that  the  greed  of  the  white  man  has  robbed 
these  people  of  two  of  their  principal  food  supplies,  until 
to-day  they  are  left  in  almost  a  starving  condition,  being 
obliged  to  depend  almost  entirely  upon  the  hair  seal  -Am] 
small  fish  for  their  food  supply. 

On  receipt  of  the  report  of  the  cruise  of  the  revenue 
cutter  at  Washington,  the  Government  became  interested 
in  the  starving  Eskimos,  and  an  appropriation  was  made 
for  the  purpose  of  transporting  reindeer  from  Siberia, 
where  they  exist  in  immense  herds;  the  purpose  con- 
templated being  to  establish  stations  in  different  parts  of 
Arctic  Alaska,  instruct  the  Eskimos  in  the  manner  of 
rearing  them  as  the  natives  do  in  Siberia,  and  when  they 
have  acquired  this  knowledge,  distribute  the  deer  among 
them,  so  that  in  the  future  they  will  have  an  unfailing 
food  and  clothing  supply. 

The  author  was  selected  by  the  Government  to  estab- 
lish a  reindeer  station  at  Port  Clarence,  and  in  the  sum- 
mer of  1892,  170  of  these  animals  were  brought  over  from 
the  Siberian  coast  and  the  station  duly  organised.  The 
increa:;t  '.>{  the  first  year  was  nearly  fifty  per  cent.,  and 
other  j'ir.deer  have  been  brought  over  each  year  since. 
There  are  about  1 500  reindeer  belonging  to  the  Govern- 
ment now  in  this  region,  distributed  as  follows :  Cape 
Prince  of  Wales,  350;  Port  Clarence,  550;  Cape  Nome, 
175;  Golofnin  Bay,  300. 

Arctic  Alaska  is  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  raising  of 
reindeer.  It  consists  of  vast  areas  of  tundra  and  moss 
which  furnishes  the  reindeer  with  an  article  of  food  espe- 
cially adapted  for  their  sustenance.  There  is  little  doubt 
that  the  reindeer  industry  will  in  the  near  future  assume 


wwttX^S^      w^^H9^nHfl^l^B^v 

im^Si^^^ 

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^^^^v^%^, 

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1IWIe||B[i 

r«  iv  Tf-^td 

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I  n 


liEINDEER 


87 


considerable  proportions,  and  private  companies  will  em- 
bark in  the  business  of  raising  this  animal  in  these  regions 
for  commercial  purposes,  the  same  as  stock-raising  is  fol- 
lowed in  the  grazing  regions  in  many  of  the  States  of  the 
Union.  Its  flesh  is  excellent  and  as  palatable  as  the 
venison  usually  found  in  the  market,  and  the  hides,  if 
cured  in  the  proper  season,  are  well  adapted  to  many 
purposes  of  commerce. 

The  colour  of  the  fur  of  the  reindeer  is  varied.  Per- 
haps the  most  common  is  seal-brown,  and  when  free  from 
other  shades  it  is  decidedly  rich  in  appearance.  The 
fur,  for  such  it  may  properly  be  called,  after  it  has  taken 
on  its  summer  coat  is  soft  and  glossy,  and  about  the 
length  of  that  of  the  fur  seal.  When  taken  at  this 
season,  if  properly  dressed  it  sheds  very  little.  The 
skin  is  soft  and  pliable,  and  but  little  thicker  than  that  of 
the  fur  seal.  The  reindeer  skin  was  at  one  time  the  only 
one  used  by  the  natives  for  their  clothing  and  tents,  but 
now  the  hair  seal  and  ground  squirrel  skins  play  an  im- 
portant part.  Reindeer  skins  have  become  a  matter  of 
luxury  with  the  natives,  and  only  those  who  deny  them- 
selves other  things  that  they  need  for  their  comfort  wear 
reindeer  clothing.  In  the  country  about  Kotzebue  Sound 
occasionally  a  skin  is  secured  from  a  wild  reindeer,  but  is 
so  rare  that  it  assumes  somewhat  of  the  nature  of  a  curi- 
osity. Thus  it  will  be  seen  that,  practically,  all  the  rein- 
deer skins  used  by  the  Alaska  Eskimos  come  from  Siberia. 

The  result  of  the  first  year's  experimenting  with  rein- 
deer ill  Arctic  Alaska  demonstrated  that  the  country  was 
even  better  adapted  to  the  propagating  of  these  beautiful 
animals  than  their  native  heath,  Siberia. 


.     , 

\'\ 

1 
1 
1  . 

i: 

i 

i! 


Hih  M 


i 


88 


ALASA'A 


The  expenditure  by  the  Government  of  the  few  thou- 
sand dollars  invested  in  this  project  has  resulted  in  an 
increase  of  nearly  fifty  per  cent.,  and  justifies  the  im- 
portation from  Siberia  of  large  herds  of  this  little  animal 
and  the  distribution  of  them  as  fast  as  possible  through- 
out this  Arctic  waste. 

Essential  as  reindeer-fur  clothinrr  is  to  the  miners  of 
the  interior,  equally  necessary  is  'nis  ''xiL  animal  as  a 
beast  of  burden,  for  it  will  solve  the  i.ciy  >  .  of  transport- 
ation to  and  from  the  stations  and  n  Jning  camps.  Al- 
though a  full-grown  reindeer  will  not  exceed  in  weight 
two  hundred  and  fifty  pounds,  a  single  animal  will  haul 
on  a  sledge  as  much  as  a  team  of  six  dogs  on  good  roads ; 
by  this  is  meant,  on  crust  or  frozen  ground.  In  deep 
snow,  if  soft,  they  quickly  become  fatigued  and  dis- 
couraged, but  if  light  and  fluffy,  which  is  the  character 
of  the  snow  generally  in  the  interior,  they  can  carry  their 
load  all  day  long  much  the  same  as  oxen,  slow  but  sure. 
They  are  not,  as  is  generally  supposed,  a  specuy  anwnal 
for  a  long  distance.  One  day  after  another,  \hi-t ,'  miles 
would  be  their  average  time.  They  arc  genJe  J  intel- 
ligent, and  soon  learn  to  know  uhat  is  expcc^'^'d  c  tb' :r.. 
They  can  be  utilised  as  pack  or  saddle  animals,  but  for 
either  purpose  the  load  must  rest  on  their  shoulders. 

In  riding,  the  position  is  an  awkward  one,  for  the  feet 
nearly  touch  tlie  ground,  and  the  practice  should  only  be 
indulged  in  when  the  roads  are  good,  or  \/  rest  one  who 
may  have  become  tired  from  a  long  tran;','*. 

A  reindeer  is  at  the  right  age  to  break  t.:  !  .uness  when 
two  years  old.  He  is  r:cst  tractable  when  a  gelding, 
and  the  argumen-  in  favour  of  the  horse  when  a  gelding 


;\7, 


REINDEER 


89 


being  better  for  work  will  apply  to  reindeer,  although 
there  seems  to  be  no  good  reason  why  bulls  could  not 
be  as  effectually  broken  and  as  easily  handled.  The 
same  can  be  said  of  females,  but  the  occa-ior.  would  sel- 
dom occur  when  one  ot  this  sex  would  be  required  for 
work,  and  her  best  sphere  in  life  is  doubtless  for  breeding 
purposes. 

The  favourite  manner  of  driving  reindeer  is  two  abreast, 
and  the  device  for  harnessing  them  is  simple  in  the  ex- 
treme, consisting  of  head-stall,  breast-strap  to  which  the 
tugs  are  attached,  and  belly-band.  There  is  no  tongue 
or  shafts  to  the  sled,  and  a  single  line  from  the  side  of  each 
deer  with  a  connection  from  one  to  the  other  is  the 
device  for  guiding  them.  In  freighting,  a  single  deer 
hitched  to  a  sled,  the  driver  walking  alongside,  and  a  half- 
dozen  other  deer,  each  hauling  a  sled,  following  behind, 
are  easily  controlled  by  one  man. 

The  great  disadvantage  in  the  use  of  horses  and  cattle 
in  this  region  is  that  feed  must  be  provided  for  them, 
oftentimes  at  great  expense,  while  reindeer  pick  their  own 
food.  When  the  day's  work  is  done,  the  deer  are  loos- 
ened from  their  harness,  and  lassoed  to  a  frozen  mound 
of  earth ;  then  they  paw  away  the  snow  with  their  fore- 
feet and  eat  the  moss.  Then,  too.  cattle  and  horses 
must  be  provided  with  water,  and  in  this  region  most  of 
the  time  ice  must  be  melted  to  secure  it,  while  reindeer 
quench  their  thirst  by  eating  snow. 

Congress  seems  to  have  awakened  at  last  to  the  im- 
portance of  prosecuting  vigorously  the  propagation  of 
reindeer  in  Alaska,  for  on  the  3rd  of  March  last  an  ap- 
propriation of  $25,000  was  made  for  this  purpose. 


' 


90 


ALASK'A 


Tlic  first  efforts  made  to  introduce  reindeer  in  Alaska 
for  the  purpose  of  providing  food  and  clothing  for  the 
starving  Eskimos  were  met  with  severe  criticism,  and 
this  has  continued  since  the  establishment  of  the  first 
station  at  Port  Clarence  in  1892.  Additioua'  zest  was 
added  to  this  opposition  by  the  failure  of  the  attempt  to 
import  reindeer  from  Lapland,  for  the  purpose  of  reliev- 
ing the  supposed  starving  miners  in  the  Klondike  in  the 
early  spring  of  1898. 

While  this  project  wasi  a  failure,  little  else  could  be 
expected  when  the  transportation  of  these  animals  for 
several  thousand  miles  is  considered,  first  by  ocean 
steamer  to  New  York,  then  by  rail  across  the  continent, 
this  being  followed  again  by  steamer  from  Seattle  to 
Lynn  Canal.  It  was  no  wonder  that  they  arrived  in  a 
weakened  condition  at  the  point  where  the  overland 
journey  to  the  Klondike  was  to  begin;  indeed,  the  won- 
der is,  that  a  single  reindeer  was  living  when  landed  in 
Alaska. 

A  counteracting  argument  against  the  importation  of 
reindeer  into  Alaska,  is  the  successful  result  of  the  driving 
of  four  hundred  and  fifty  reindeer  over  four  hundred 
miles  from  Unalaklik  to  Point  Barrow,  for  the  relief  of  the 
imprisoned  shipwrecked  sailors,  which  was  accomplished 
in  1898  in  the  dead  of  an  Arctic  winter  through  a  country 
a  part  of  which  was  never  before  travelled  by  whites. 

The  practicability  of  reindeer  for  transportation  in 
Alaska  has  no  warmer  advocates  than  Lieutenants  Jarvis 
and  Bertholf  and  Surgeon  Call  of  the  revenue  cutter 
In'ar,  and  Mr.  W.  T.  Lopp,  missionary  at  Cape  Prince 
of  Wales,  who  composed  this  expedition ;  and  the  serv- 


REIXDEER 


91 


ices  of   these   men   who   braved  the  terrors  of  such  an 
undertaking  during  the  trying  and  dangerous  tramp  of 
four  months,  are  well  worthy  the  bestowal  of  the  gold 
medals  they  have  received  for  their  bravery. 

The  Eskimo  dog  in  Alaska  is  the  Eskimo  beast  of 
burden.  He  is  a  creature  of  great  sagacity  in  his  way, 
and  does  not  possess  the  worthless  traits  of  the  cur 
usually  found  among  Indians  in  more  temperate  climates. 
He  is  cared  for  with  the  indulgence  shown  a  child,  and 
while  the  nature  of  the  Eskimo  is  to  be  brutal  to  all 
creatures  not  human,  his  dog  is  fed  regularly,  and  the 
last  fish  is  shared  with  the  animal,  whether  on  a  journey 
or  at  home.  While  the  Eskimo  prizes  his  dog  highly,  it 
is  not  because  he  is  actuated  by  feelings  of  affection,  for 
this  animal  is  not  looked  upon  in  the  light  of  a  com- 
panion, and  is  never  caressed  or  petted. 

The  Eskimo  dog  is  doubtless  part  wolf,  for  many  of 
his  characteristics  are  wolfish  in  nature.  He  looks  like  a 
wolf,  he  howls  like  a  wolf,  never  barks,  his  hair  is  more 
like  fur,  and  he  is  in  his  natural  clement  when  lying  on 
the  top  of  snow  with  no  protection  from  the  severe  blasts 
of  the  Arctic  winter,  and  seems  thoroughly  comfortable 
when  exposed  to  the  fury  of  a  storm.  He  lies  curled  up 
like  a  ball  and  sleeps  as  soundly  as  though  on  a  bed  of 
furs.  He  is  strong  and  powerful,  and  when  six  or  eight 
of  them  are  hitched  together  it  is  wonderful  what  loads 
they  can  handle.  Twenty-five  or  thirty  miles  a  day  is  a 
fair  average  for  a  dog  team,  and  on  a  good  road,  hitched 
one  ahead  of  the  other,  they  make  a  pretty  team.  They 
are  persistent,  and  when  unable  to  haul  a  heavy  load,  will 
jump  up  and  down  with  a  broken  chorus  of  howls  mani- 


' 


m  mi 


92  ALASKA 

festing  their  impatience  to  go,  and,  when  they  settle  down 
to  an  earnest  pull,  never  give  up  until  they  have  ex- 
hausted all  their  strength.  An  Eskimo  dog  team  is  an 
expensive  luxury  in  the  interior  of  Alaska,  for  dried  fish 
is  their  food,  and  on  a  long  journey  the  bulk  of  the  load 
must  be  made  up  of  food  for  the  team. 

The  St.  Bernard  and  Newfoundland  dogs  are  not,  as  is 
generally  supposed,  profitable  dogs  for  this  country. 
Though  they  can  haul  heavy  loads,  they  are  not  adapted 
to  the  long,  severe  winters  of  this  latitude.  They  do  not 
take  kindly  to  fresh  or  dried  fish,  hence  the  master  must 
share  his  food  with  his  team,  thus  making  it  an  expen- 
sive one  to  keep.  But  the  great  objection  to  these  dogs 
is  that  their  feet  become  sore  on  a  journey,  on  account 
of  the  snow  filling  in  between  the  toes  and  freezing,  thus 
soon  disablin<i  them. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

ESKIMO   HABITS  AND   CUSTOMS 

WHENCE  came  the  Alaska  Eskimo  is  a  question 
that  will  probably  never  be  satisfactorily  determ- 
ined, as  no  record  or  written  history  furnishes  a  clue, 
but  the  consensus  of  opinion  seems  to  point  to  an  Asiatic 
origin. 

Professor  Dall,  in  his  report  on  the  distribution,  origin, 
etc.,  of  the  native  races  of  the  northwestern  territory, 
believes  the  natives  of  Alaska  were  once  the  inhabitants 
of  the  interior  of  America,  and  that  they  were  forced  to 
the  west  and  north  by  tribes  of  Indians  from  the  south. 
He  can  in  no  way  connect  them  with  the  Japanese  or  the 
Chinese,  either  by  dress,  manner,  or  language. 

Mr.  L.  M.  Turner,  who  spent  a  number  of  years  among 
the  Aleutian  Islands  and  on  the  East  Bering  coast  as  far 
north  as  Norton  Sound,  reports  to  the  Smithsonian  In- 
stitute, that  the  Innuits  or  Eskimo  without  do  bt  popu- 
lated this  country  from  the  coast  of  Greenland,  and  that 
he  found  no  trouble  in  tracing  a  relationship,  and  proof 
that  the  migration  was  from  the  east  to  the  west. 

Professor  OtisT.  Mason,  of  the  same  institution,  takes 
the  position  that  the  emigration  came  from  Asia  to  this 
continent,  and  that  the  Alaska  Eskimos  are  undoubtedly 
of  Mongolian  origin. 

93 


I     i 


(•  II 


94 


ALASKA 


The  first  thought  that  strikes  one  when  he  looks  upon 
an  Alaska  Eskimo  for  the  first  time  is,  "  how  striking 
the  resemblance  to  the  Japanese,"  and  the  longer  he  as- 
sociates with  them,  the  more  strongly  he  is  impressed 
with  the  idea  that  at  some  time,  though  very  remote, 
there  has  been  a  connecting  link  between  these  two 
peoples. 

Their  stature,  colour  of  hair,  shape  of  eyes,  olive  com- 
plexion, and  small  hands  and  feet  all  bear  a  striking 
resemblance  to  the  Japanese.  Many  of  their  character- 
istics are  similar,  as,  for  instance,  their  sunny  and  happy 
disposition  ;  the  most  marked  characteristic  perhaps 
being  their  innate  faculty  of  imitation  which  is  so  con- 
spicuous among  the  Japanese. 

The  usually  accepted  theory  that  some  time  in  the  past 
the  Japanese  worked  their  way  northward  through  Si- 
beria and  thence  across  the  narrow  waters  dividing  tlie 
two  continents  at  Bering  Strait  and  populated  the  Arctic 
regions,  does  not  seem  altogether  a  plausible  one.  The 
strongest  argument  against  it  is,  that  since  the  Arctic  is 
a  region  c'  desolation,  a  wild,  bleak  expanse  of  ice  and 
snow,  there  was  little  inducement  for  the  Japanese  to 
migrate  to  such  inhospitable  shores. 

It  seems  a  more  reasonable  theory  that  sometime  in 
the  world's  history,  what  is  now  known  as  the  polar 
regions  was  a  tropical  country,  and  when  the  change 
came  the  inhabitants  emigrated  southward,  perhaps 
crossing  Bering  Strait,  leaving  a  remnant  of  their  people 
in  the  north,  who  are  the  Eskimos  of  to-day. 

Little  Artmarhoke,  one  of  the  Eskimo  twins  whose 
picture    appears    elsewhere    in    this    chapter,    is    a    fair 


ESA'/.UO  HABITS  AXD   CUSTOMS 


95 


illustration  of  the  resemblance  the  Eslcimo  bear  to  the 
Japanese.  The  resemblance  is  effectually  shown  in  the 
picture,  in  which  this  little  Eskimo  has  exchanged  her  fur 
clothing  for  a  loose  jacket  and  skirt,  which,  together 
with  the  simple  arrangement  of  her  hair  to  the  style  worn 
by  these  people,  has  transformed  her  into  a  veritable 
little  Jap. 

Another  interesting  point  in  connection  with  the  Eski- 
mo is  that  they  are  found  in  every  part  of  the  Arctic 
region  explored  by  the  white  man,  from  Smith  Sound  in 
Greenland  to  nearly  the  western  limits  of  Siberia;  thus 
these  people,  whose  numerical  strength  aggregate  but  a 
few  thousand,  inhabit  a  greater  extent  of  country  from 
east  to  west  than  any  other  people  on  the  globe,  with  the 
single  exception  of  the  Anglo-Saxon. 

The  Eskimos  of  Arctic  Alaska  do  not  live,  as  many  sup- 
pose, in  snow  houses.  They  live  in  huts  built  under- 
ground. Usually  more  than  one  family  occupy  a  single 
hut,  and  often  ten  or  fifteen  persons  live  for  eight  months 
in  the  year  in  a  single  apartment  that  is  barely  large 
enough  for  two  persons. 

Their  huts  are  built  b}^  digging  a  hole  in  the  ground 
about  six  feet  deep,  and  large  bones  of  whale  or  logs  from 
driftwood  are  stood  up  side  by  side  all  around  the  hole. 
On  the  tops  of  these  are  laid  logs  that  rest  even  with  the 
top  of  the  ground.  Stringers  are  then  laid  across  them 
and  other  logs  are  laid  on  these,  then  moss  and  dirt  are 
covered  over,  leaving  an  opening  about  two  feet  square, 
over  which  is  stretched  a  piece  of  walrus  entrail  that  is  so 
transparent  that  light  comes  through,  \thich  answers  the 
purpose  of  a  window. 


i    i 


A 


|L  tl 
^1 


96 


A  LAS  A' A 


I    J 


An  entrance  into  the  hut  is  made  through  an  apart- 
ment constructed  similar  to  the  hut,  in  the  top  of  which 
a  hole  is  left  large  enough  to  admit  a  person,  and  by 
means  of  a  sort  of  step-ladder  he  reaches  the  bottom. 
From  this  is  a  passageway,  usually  about  two  feet 
square,  through  which  he  must  crawl  on  his  hands  and 
knees  to  reach  the  living-room  of  the  hut,  perhaps  fifteen 
or  twenty  feet  away.  At  the  end  of  the  passage  leading 
into  the  hut  is  a  skin  which  is  pushed  aside  when  one 
enters  or  goes  out.  When  this  is  closed  over  the  hole, 
the  apartment  is  practically  air-tight,  and  when  occupied 
by  a  dozen  or  more  persons  the  air  soon  becomes  so  foul 
that  one  side  of  the  little  skin  window  has  to  be  pulled 
up  to  let  it  escape.  Occasionally  a  hut  is  found  where 
the  occupants  appreciate  the  value  of  fresh  air  and  have 
inserted  a  wooden  spout  in  the  roof  through  which  the 
impure  air  is  allowed  to  escape. 

No  tables  or  chairs  are  ever  used  by  the  Eskimos,  and 
the  only  article  found  in  the  way  of  furniture  is  their 
stove,  or,  more  properly  speaking,  lamp.  They  are  all 
of  one  pattern,  usually  of  wood,  but  sometimes  of  stone, 
and  are  shaped  the  same  as  a  circular  board  would  be  if 
cut  in  halves.  The  centre  of  the  lamp  is  hollowed  out 
to  a  depth  of  perhaps  a  half-inch,  thus  leaving  a  ridge. 
Along  this  ridge  is  spread  a  sort  of  cotton,  gathered  from 
a  wild  shrub  in  summer.  This  answers  for  a  lamp  wick, 
and  when  saturated  with  seal  oil  will  burn  a  long  time 
before  being  consumed.  The  lamp  is  placed  on  two 
wooden  pins  driven  into  the  logs  on  one  side  of  the  hut. 
and  above  the  lamp  is  driven  another  wooden  pin,  on 
which  is  placed  a  piece  of  seal  blubber,  just  far  enough 


ARTMARHOKE  DRESSED  AS  A  JAPANESE. 


fro 
fur 

oil 
tin 
hu 
an( 

th: 
lea 
th( 
mc 
cai 
iiK 

an 

nil 

T 

w 

th 

a 

St 


ESA'fMO  HABITS  AXD   CUSTOMS 


97 


from  tlie   flame   to  cause  the  oil  to  drip  sufficiently  to 
furnish  fuel  for  the  lamp. 

The  Eskimos  may  be  truly  said  to  burn  the  midnight 
oil,  for  their  lamps  are  never  suffered  to  go  out  from  the 
time  they  arc  lighted  in  the  fall  until  they  abandon  their 
huts  for  the  tent  in  summer.  This  is  their  only  stove, 
and  for  heating  purposes  is  excellent. 

The  Eskimos  are,  as  a  rule,  industrious.  It  is  seldom 
that  a  lazy  person  is  seen  among  either  aex.  They  early 
learn  that  an  existence  is  only  to  be  had  by  applying 
themselves  to  some  task,  and  the  older  they  grow  the 
more  they  are  impressed  with  the  knowledge  that  they 
can  satisfy  the  cravings  of  an  empty  stomach  only  by 
industrious  labour. 

The  preparation  of  skins  requires  ceaseless  exertion, 
and  >vhen  they  are  ready  to  be  made  up,  sinew  thread 
must  be  braided  and  twisted,  which  in  itself  is  an  art. 
This  is  one  of  the  first  things  a  young  girl  is  taught,  and 
while  she  is  yet  almost  an  infant  is  capable  of  preparing 
thread  from  deer  or  whale  sinew  witli  .ill  the  dexterity  of 
a  woman.  Most  women  are  expert  sewers,  and  their 
stitches  are  often  as  even  and  regular  as  could  be  made 
by  a  machine. 

L  skimo  women  have  long  since  learned  the  advantage 
of  the  needle  of  civilisation  over  the  ivory  awl  used  by 
their  great-grandmothers.  Our  thimble,  too,  finds  a 
place  in  their  workbag,  and  is  esteemed  a  great  improve- 
ment over  the  piece  of  sealskin  cut  to  slip  over  the  finger, 
which  they  formerly  used,  but  they  discard  our  cotton 
and  linen  thread  as  vastly  inferior  to  sinew  thread  in 
working  upon  skins. 

7 


!     1 

i     I 


u 


98 


ALASKA 


Probably  in  the  fact  that  the  Eskimos  are  obliged 
to  put  an  endless  amount  of  labour  into  nearly  every- 
thing they  make,  lies  the  secret  of  their  everlasting 
patience.  They  will  scrape  at  a  skin  a  long  time  before 
scarcely  any  impression  is  made  upon  it,  and  rub  and  pull 
at  one  when  it  is  hard  and  stiff,  b''t  finally  the  skin  be- 
comes soft  and  pliable  under  their  delicately  formed 
hands,  which  seem  poorly  adapted  to  such  work. 

Their  hands  are,  without  exception,  small  and  prettily 
shaped.  Among  those  women  who  are  large  and  tall 
their  hands  are  unusually  small  and  shapely.  The  same 
is  true  of  their  feet.  The  complexion  of  the  Eskimos  is 
also  of  a  character  that  one  would  scarcely  expect  to  find 
among  people  who  are  brought  so  much  in  contact  with 
the  elements.  Although  the  colour  of  their  skin  borders 
strongly  on  the  olive  order,  it  seems  soft  and  clear. 

In  eating,  the  Eskimos  all  sit  around  in  a  circle,  and 
the  food  is  placed  on  the  floor  in  the  centre  of  the  group. 
No  meal,  whether  it  be  of  dried  or  frozen  fish,  seal  or 
whale  meat,  is  ready  to  be  eaten  until  a  vessel  containing 
seal  oil  is  at  hand.  This  is  placed  in  a  position  easily 
reached  by  those  eating,  and  before  taking  a  bite  of  any- 
thing it  is  first  dipped  into  the  oil,  or  two  or  three  fingers 
are  thrust  into  it,  and  then  placed  in  the  mouth  and 
sucked.  Such  a  thing  as  a  spoon  is  rnrely  ever  used  by 
them,  and  it  is  doubtful  if  many  of  them  would  under- 
stand its  use  if  they  had  one. 

It  is  when  a  household  of  Eskimos  are  gathered  about 
the  floor  partaking  of  their  food  that  their  natural  dispo- 
sition to  mirth  is  given  full  sway,  and  every  meal,  whether 
in    their   huts    or    when    camping    out,     partakes    nnne 


■obliged 


eveiy- 

Irlasting 

before 

ind  pull 

Iskin  be- 

formcd 

prettily 
and  tall 
'he  same 
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:t  to  find 
tact  with 
II  borders 
ear. 

ircle,  and 
he  group, 
ih,  seal  or 
lontaining 
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te  of  an\- 
ree  fingers 
louth  and 
r  used  by 
jid  under- 
red  about 
iral  dispo- 
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mi 
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nii 
to 

o 
fc 
a 
tl 


ESKIMO  HA  BITS  AXD    CUSTOMS 


99 


of  the  nature  of  a  family  reunion  than  an  every-day  oc- 
currence. They  are  naturally  given  to  jest  and  laughter, 
and  a  continual  hubbub  reigns  until  the  last  morsel  is 
eaten.  This  predisposition  toward  good  nature  is  always 
present.  A  surly  Eskimo  is  rarely  seen,  and  whether  it 
rains  or  shines,  or  the  wind  blows  a  blizzard  from  the 
North  Pole,  they  are  the  same  happy  and  apparently 
contented  people. 

The  Eskimos  have  but  one  standard  measure,  and  that 
is  the  fathom.  It  means  as  much  as  a  man  can  span  by 
holding  his  arms  out  at  right  angles  to  his  body,  and  this 
measures  about  six  feet.  When  buying  calico  or  drilling  of 
the  whites,  or  measuring  the  dimensions  of  a  boat  or  log, 
or  for  any  other  purpose,  it  is  always  so  many  fathoms. 

If  a  woman  wants  to  make  a  present,  the  only  thing 
that  suggests  itself  to  her,  and  in  fact  the  only  thing  she 
ever  gives  to  a  lovi  ,  is  a  tobacco  pouch.  These  they 
make  of  reindeer  or  squirrel  skin  in  various  styles,  and 
decorate  them  w^ith  beads  or  some  fancy-coloured  fur, 
such  as  the  ermine,  either  in  its  elelicate  yi  low  tinge  of 
summer  or  the  pure  white  it  assumes  in  winter. 

The  Eskimos  still  cling  to  the  primitive  manner  of 
making  fire  with  flint  or  by  rubbing  two  pieces  of  wood 
together. 

They  carry  these  articles  in  a  little  bag.  in  the  bottom 
of  which  are  little  wads  of  the  same  fibrou  material  used 
for  wicks  for  their  oil  lamps,  and  which  is  gathered  from 
a  wild  bush  in  the  fall  of  the  year.  In  making  a  light, 
they  take  a  small  piece  of  this  cotton,  which  has  pre- 
viously been  rolled  in  wood  ashes,  and  holding  it  be- 
tween the  thumb  and  flint,  strike  the  flints  together,  and 


i:  ■     n 


lOO 


ALASKA 


the  sparks  emitted  ignite  the  cotton,  which  is  blown  into 
a  flame.  It  is  a  crude  way  of  getting  a  fire  started,  but 
is  one  of  the  most  simple  and  interesting  of  their  customs, 
for  it  comes  from  a  period  of  time  when  the  Eskimos  had 
to  depend  upon  their  own  resources  for  obtaining  a  fire, 
and  before  they  knew  anything  about  the  usefulness  of 
the  match  of  civilisation. 

The  Eskimos  are  complete  slaves  to  tobacco,  and  it  is 
seldom  that  one  is  seen  who  does  not  use  it  in  one  form 
or  another.  All  the  men  and  most  of  the  women  smoke, 
while  a  child,  after  it  reaches  the  age  of  five  or  six  years, 
appears  not  to  be  a  true  representative  of  his  race,  if  he 
cannot  smoke  a  pipe  or  chew  tobacco. 

While  nearly  all  the  women  smoke,  they  take  to  chew- 
ing more  naturally,  and  they  do  it  so  quietly  that  one 
would  not  suspect  it  from  their  actions.  They  never 
spit,  and  only  crunch  it  occasionally,  preferring  to  suck  it 
or  allow  it  to  lie  quietly  in  the  mouth,  and,  as  spittle  ac- 
cumulates, swallow  it.  They  cn.nnot  understand  why  a 
white  man  spits  when  chewing  or  smoking,  for  they  seem 
to  find  pleasure  in  the  habit  only  from  swallowing  the 
juice.  If  a  native  is  chewing  and  wants  to  eat  he  carefully 
takes  the  quid  of  tobacco  from  his  mouth  and  puts  it  on 
top  of  his  ear.  From  this  place  it  is  afterwards  taken  to  be 
again  put  in  his  mouth,  and  this  process  is  repeated  until 
he  has  gotten  all  the  substance  he  can  from  the  tobacco. 
It  is  then  carefully  put  away  in  his  tobacco  pouch,  to 
eventually  find  its  way  to  his  pipe,  and  the  end  of  that 
tobacco  is  not  reached  until  it  is  wafted  away  in  clouds 
of  smoke.  An  Eskimo  who  is  without  tobacco  is  as 
wretched  as  a  confirmed  drunkard  without  his  whiskev, 


-yr 


%■•■ 
*  -' 


ESKIMO  HABITS  AXD    CUSTOMS 


lOI 


rn  into 
Id,  but 
Istoms, 
|os  had 
a  fire, 
bess  of 


and  he  will  go  to  as  great  extremes  to  secure  it  as  he 
would  to  procure  food  for  himself  and  family.  It  is  the 
first  thing  he  asks  for  when  a  white  man  approaches  him, 
and  the  first  article  he  wants  to  trade  for  when  he  has 
furs  to  sell. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  the  Eskimos  smoked  and 
chewed  long  before  they  obtained  tobacco  from  the 
whites,  for  even  now  one  is  occasionally  seen  using  a 
substitute  made  from  a  root  found  in  the  country. 

The  Eskimos  have  two  kinds  of  water  craft, — the 
oomiak,  or  skin  boat,  and  the  kyak,  or  canoe.  The 
oomiak  is  a  curiously  constructed  affair,  and  when  stand- 
ing on  the  beach  looks  lumbering  and  awkward  and  as  if 
it  would  not  carry  a  heavy  load  or  ride  much  of  a  sea; 
yet  as  many  as  thirty  or  forty  persons  often  get  in  one, 
and  when  thus  loaded  it  will  ride  in  rough  water  with 
remarkable  buoyancy.  The  usual  size  of  the  oomiak  is 
about  thirty-five  feet  long,  six  feet  beam,  about  four  feet 
deep  in  the  middle,  and  comes  almost  to  a  point  at  both 
ends.  It  is  built  something  after  the  shape  of  a  dory. 
The  framework  is  made  of  pieces  of  timber,  the  heaviest 
of  which  are  about  three  inches  square.  These  are  placed 
lengthwise  in  the  bottom  of  the  boat,  and  across  them  are 
lashed  small  strips  by  means  of  seal  thongs,  each  joint 
being  made  to  fit  closely. 

When  the  timbers  are  firmly  lashed  together  they  are 
very  strong,  and  a  heavy  sea  striking  the  side  of  the  boat 
will  not  cause  it  to  yield  at  a  single  joint.  When  the 
framework  is  finally  ready,  walrus-  or  sealskin  is  stretched 
over  it,  the  pieces  sewed  together  and  pulled  as  tightly 
as  possible,  and  then  lashed  to  the  top-rail.     When  the 


■i  \ 


\\    \\\ 


■vi 


■'l\ 


i 


i'    ■■ 


-i 


Pacific  N.  W.  History  Dept. 

PROVINCIAL  LIBRARY 
VIOTORIA,  t.  0. 


102 


Af.ASk'A 


skin  is  in  place  scarcely  a  drop  of  water  can  penetrate 
through  the  seams.  Over  the  top-rail  about  two  feet  of 
the  skin  is  allowed  to  hang  loosely  on  the  inside,  the 
whole  length  of  the  boat,  and  when  sailing  in  rough 
weather,  slats  are  raised  between  the  skin  and  frame,  the 
loose  skin  pulled  up,  thus  giving  about  two  feet  more  of 
surface  above  the  sea,  and  if  carefully  managed  scarcely 
a  drop  of  water  can  reach  the  inside  in  the  roughest 
weather.  The  oomiak  has  no  keel,  and  therefore  cannot 
beat  or  tack  against  the  wind,  and  the  only  thing  to  do 
if  it  blows  too  hard  is  to  seek  the  first  landing  that 
can  be  made. 

There  is  generally  but  one  mast  to  the  oomiak,  and 
this  stands  about  one-third  of  the  length  back  from  the 
bow,  and  when  there  is  no  wind  it  is  taken  down  and  laid 
in  the  boat.  Sometimes,  when  the  wind  is  fair,  a  second 
but  smaller  mast  is  placed  about  the  same  distance  from 
the  stern  of  the  boat,  but  they  are  only  used  in  the 
largest  oomiaks.  The  lower  end  of  the  mast  is  inserted 
in  a  slot  between  timbers  in  the  bottom  of  the  boat,  and 
guys  extend  from  near  the  top  to  both  sides  and  also  to 
both  bow  and  stern. 

One  not  accustomed  to  the  oomiak  is  in  constant  dread 
of  moving  about,  for  fear  that  if  he  should  step  between 
the  framework  he  will  make  a  hole  in  the  skin,  for  the 
water  is  plainly  seen  through  it.  The  natives  pay  little 
attention  to  where  they  step  in  going  from  one  part  of  tlie 
boat  to  another,  and  although  their  feet  will  depress  the 
skin  two  or  three  inches,  there  is  no  danger  of  its  givin'^ 
way.  and  the  very  spot  they  are  standing  on  would 
doubtless  hold  up  a  ton. 


ESKIMO  BOY,   ESKIMO  HUT,  ESKIMO  Q:RLS,    ESKIMO  FAMILY, 
ESKIMO  SPEARING   WALRUS 


n 


:  fl 


ri'f 


• ' 


ii..©:::  ■     A 


'     SI 


are 
res 
/ 
recc 
doe 


fail! 
gen 
to 
hul 


ESKIMO  //A BITS  AND  CUSTOMS 


'03 


Nansen  says  the  kyak  of  the  Eskimos  is  the  most  re- 
markable craft  known.  It  is  similar  in  construction  and 
style  to  the  skin  canoe  or  bidarka  found  among  the 
natives  along  the  southern  coast  of  Alaska.  It  is  not 
much  used  by  the  coast  Eskimos,  as  they  do  most  of 
their  travelling  by  water  in  the  oomiak,  but  those  in  the 
interior  use  it  to  greater  extent  in  navigating  on  the 
rivers  and  lakes,  on  account  of  its  extreme  lightness,  a 
single  kyak  weighing  about  twenty-five  pounds.  They 
are  generally  the  single-hatch  kyak,  but  occasionally 
one  is  found  with  two  or  three  hatches  and  capable  of 
carrying  as  many  persons. 

The  snow-shoes  of  the  Eskimos  are  similar  to  those 
used  in  all  cold  countries.  They  are  always  carried  on 
the  sled  when  travelling  and  are  much  needed  when  the 
snow  is  falling  in  the  spring.  They  are  especially  useful 
when  hunting  seal  on  ice,  for  the  wearers  are  thus  en- 
abled to  cross  broken  cakes  of  ice  without  danger. 

The  Eskimos  are  decidedly  dcrnc-iic  in  their  habits. 
The  men  are  usually  considerate  of  their  wives  and  the 
affection  of  parents  for  children  is  vf,r\'  marked.  Children 
are  seldom  punished,  and  if  so,  lightly.  They  usually 
respond  quickly  to  a  command  and  are  very  obedient. 

An  invalid  is  an  object  of  great  solicitation  and  often 
receives  contributions  of  food  from  those  whose  supply 
does  not  justify  the  gift. 

Occasionally  a  man  will  whip  his  wife  for  some  real  or 
fancied  wrong.  This  practice  appears  to  be  a  sort  of 
generally  established  riglit  that  the  husband  is  entitled 
to  indulge  in,  and  the  woman  seems  to  think  more  of  her 
huband  after  the  punishment. 


!.! 


(   I 


'  t 


104 


ALASKA 


Should  a  man  and  woman  separate,  he  takes  possession 
of  all  her  personal  belongings,  even  stripping  her  of 
clothing  that  may  be  useful  to  a  second  wife. 

The  women  have  various  ways  of  adornment.  They 
sometimes  have  the  middle  latch  of  the  nose  pierced, 
through  which  pieces  of  ivory  arc  suspended.  They 
also  pierce  the  ears  above  the  end  and  pass  two  or 
three  strings  of  beads  from  one  ear  to  the  other  under 
the  chin.  Their  ambition,  however,  is  to  wear  rings 
and  bracelets  of  brass  or  copper,  which  they  value  as 
we  do  gold. 

A  mark  whic'^  serves  as  a  good  means  of  determining 
sex  is  worn  by  the  females.  It  consists  of  three  or  five 
lines  about  an  eighth  of  an  inch  wide  on  the  chin.  In- 
stead of  pricking  it  in,  a  sharp  in^^trument  is  drawn  over 
the  skin  until  blood  comes,  and  wood  ashes  are  then 
rubbed  in,  and  when  it  heals  it  leaves  marks  like  tattoo- 
ing. This  practice  is  universal,  and  is  usually  put  on 
when  a  girl  reaches  the  age  of  eight  years. 

The  men  seldom  tattoo  their  arms  and  hands.  Their 
only  peculiarities  of  dress  are  shaving  the  crown  of  the 
head  and  wearing  the  labret.  An  aperture  is  punctured 
in  either  side  of  the  lower  lip  with  much  care  and  some 
pain,  to  insert  the  labret,  which  is  usually  made  of  highly 
polished  ivory  with  a  colored  bead  in  the  centre,  and  is 
from  half  an  inch  to  an  inch  in  diameter. 

The  only  difference  in  the  style  of  the  clothing  worn 
by  men  and  women  is  the  shape  of  the  artiger,  or  coat, 
and  trouser  i.  The  artiger  ot  the  women  has  a  slit  at  both 
sides  frorr.  the  bottom  to  the  hips;  that  of  the  nij  n  is 
the  same  length  all  around.     The  trousers  of  the  women 


i 


A  TYPICAL  ALASKA  ESKIMO  GIRL 


'   If 

I  L  I 


'!    f 


!    ; 


'i 


■  I 


ESKIMO  HABITS  AXD   CUSTOMS 


105 


line 


have  the  foot-gear  sewed  to  tliein ;  those  of  the  men  are 
cut  off  at  the  knee  or  ankle.  When  a  woman  is  bundled 
up,  with  the  hood  of  her  artiger  drawn  closely  around  her 
face,  the  tattoo  marks  are  covered,  and  the  only  way  to 
distinguish  her  sex,  is  by  the  shape  of  her  artiger. 

A  most  ingeniously  contrived  garment  is  the  Eskimo 
rain-coat.  It  is  made  from  the  intestines  of  the  hair 
seal  and  walrus.  Strips  about  three  inches  wide  are 
sewed  together  with  thread  made  from  the  sinew  of  the 
reindeer,  stripped  in  shreds  and  woven  into  this  remark- 
able thread.  This  Eskimo  mackintosh  is  exceedingly 
light,  not  weighing  more  than  four  ounces,  and  is  large 
enough  to  cover  the  head  and  body  as  low  as  the  knees. 
Clad  in  it,  one  is  as  thoroughly  protected  from  rain  as  he 
would  be  in  the  mackintosh  of  civilisation. 

Plurality  of  wives  is  a  practice  that  i-;  by  no  means 
common,  and  when  it  does  occur  it  is  among  men  who, 
by  virtue  of  their  possessing  more  property  than  their 
neighbours,  are  able  to  support  more  than  one  wife. 
When  the  custom  prevails,  there  appears  to  be  no  dis- 
turbing or  quarrelsome  disposition,  and  if  there  is  any, 
the  aggrieved  woman  bottles  her  wrath ;  doubtless  from 
fear  that  she  will  be  turned  out  to  shift  for  herself,  which 
is  more  to  be  dreaded  than  any  pang  of  envy  or  jealousy 
she  might  experience. 

The  Arctic  Alaska  Eskimo  is,  physically,  a  fine  speci- 
men of  the  human  race.  While  as  a  rule  they  will  not 
average  over  five  feet  six  or  eight  inches  in  height,  oc- 
casionally a  six-footer  is  found.  They  are  not  by  any 
means  dwarfish  in  stature  or  slow  and  sluggish  in  their 
movements;  neither  are  they  dull  and  stupid  intellect- 


\  . ,, 


^f 


io6 


ALASA'A 


li 


ually.  The  casual  observer  might  think  them  so,  for 
they  appear  subdued  and  reserved  when  among  the 
whites;  but  when  away  from  them  and  left  to  act  freely, 
they  are  bright,  cheerful,  and  intelligent. 

A  stout  or  corpulent  Eskimo  is  never  seen.  Their 
whole  life  is  one  which  calls  into  play  every  muscle  of 
the  body,  and  they  are  distinctly  an  athletic  race.  Not 
a  pound  of  superfluous  flesh  is  on  their  closely  knitted 
frames,  and,  while  their  hands,  lower  limbs,  and  feet  are 
very  small,  their  chests  and  shoulders  are  grandly  de- 
veloped, and  their  arms  are  muscular  and  sinewy. 

They  are  very  fond  of  athletic  sports,  and  football  and 
jum[)ing  are  practised  by  them  to  a  considerable  extent. 
They  indulge  in  many  exercises  that  test  their  strength, 
such  as  pulling  each  other's  arms  when  locked  together, 
wrestling,  lifting  each  other  or  heavy  weights,  and  many 
such  exercises  that  will  bring  into  play  every  muscle. 
Many  of  them  excel  in  jumping  and  kicking,  and  occa- 
sionally one  is  found  who  can  kick  with  both  feet  higher 
than  his  own  liead,  a  performance  that  few  white  athletes 
can  accomplish. 

When  dancing,  one  or  more  of  the  men  beat  upon  a 
drum  made  by  stretching  a  piece  of  walrus  entrail  over 
a  hoop,  and  tliis  serves  as  a  time-marker  for  the  partici- 
pants in  the  dance,  to  which  the  grotesque  throwing 
about  of  the  arms  and  twisting  of  their  bodies  are  made 
to  add  a  pantomimic  accompaniment.  During  all  this 
time  they  jumj)  and  whirl  about  in  the  most  violent 
manner,  and  only  stop  from  sheer  exhaustion.  Tlie 
dr.im  is  the  only  musical  instrument  used  by  the  Eski- 
mos.    They  are  all  very  fond  of  song,  and  the  blending 


ESA-IAfO   HABITS  AXD   CUSTOMS 


107 


Ifor 

the 

fly. 

leir 

of 

lot 

ttcd 

are 

de- 


of  their  voices  gives  a  harmony  that  becomes  more  pleas- 
ing to  the  ear  the  oftener  it  is  heard. 

The  Eskimos  have  no  creed  or  dogmas  of  reHgion — no 
God  or  idols,  but  they  are  always  guided  by  the  mys- 
terious, and  have  many  symbols  and  signs  of  good  and 
evil;  their  life  is  one  continuous  round  of  superstitious 
belief. 

There  are  about  2o,cxx)  Eskimos  in  Arctic  Alaska  who 
are  the  most  intelligent,  good-looking,  and  amiable 
natives  found  on  the  continent.  These  blubber-eating 
savages,  as  they  are  often  denominated,  are  now  on  the 
verge  of  starvation  as  the  result  of  the  avarice  of  com- 
merce in  the  wholesale  massacre  and  extermination  by 
the  whites  of  the  walrus  and  whale,  which,  from  time 
immemorial  have  been  the  two  chief  articles  of  diet  of 
these  people.  It  is  well  worth  an  effort  on  the  part  of 
the  Government  to  rescue  the  Alaska  Eskimos  from 
starvation,  and  the  project  of  distributing  reindeer  among 
them  to  provide  them  with  food  and  clothing  is  the  best 
missionary  work  the  Government  can  undertake ;  for  while 
it  encourages  them  to  cultivate  a  vocation  it  will  also 
relieve  the  nation  of  the  obloquy  of  having  wards  un- 
cared  for  and  neglected. 


i- 


r-i  -.  r. 


]'[\ 


'  H 


1  ,  !, 


i ;  ? 


I    M 


CHAPTER  IX 


ALASKA   INDIANS 


WHAT  we  have  said  of  the  origin  of  the  Eskimos  of 
Alaska  and  their  relationship  to  the  Japanese 
may  be  applied  with  equal  force  to  the  Indians  of  Alaska. 

In  their  personal  appearance,  there  is  very  little  resem- 
blance to  the  North  American  Indians,  but  there  is  a 
most  striking  one  to  the  Japanese.  The  same  imitative 
quality  that  is  so  prominent  among  the  Eskimos  is  per- 
haps the  most  distinguishing  characteristic  also  of  the 
Alaska  Indians.  The  resemblance  between  the  so-called 
Indians  of  Alaska  and  the  Eskimos  is  so  strong,  that  if 
the  Indian  should  exchange  his  usual  garb,  that  of  Euro- 
pean clothing  or  a  blanket,  with  the  Eskim.o  for  his  fur 
clothing,  it  would  be  difficult  to  determine  that  either 
was  not  what  his  dress  would  seem  to  indicate. 

While  it  is  true  that  both  the  Indians  and  Eskimos  are 
small  in  stature,  many  of  the  former,  notably  the  Copper 
River,  Kuskoquim,  and  Tanana  River  Indians  are  tall 
and  sinewy;  and  it  is  not  uncommon  among  the  Eskimos 
to  find  many  of  them  five  feet  eight  inches,  five  feet  ten 
inches,  and  even  si.x  feet  in  height. 

Among  the  coast  or  Southeast  Alaska  Indians,  there 
are  but  four  or  five  distinct  lanugages,  the  Thlinkit  being 

luS 


11^ 


ALASKA    INDIANS 


109 


:  I- 


the  most  generally  used.  But  all  through  this  region  and 
extending  as  far  west  as  Yakutat,  and  into  the  interior 
to  the  headwaters  of  the  Yukon,  what  is  known  as  Chi- 
nook, a  jargon  originated  by  the  early  settlers  during  the 
palmy  days  of  the  Hudson  Bay  trading-posts  is  generally 
used.  It  contains  but  a  few  hundred  words,  many  of 
them  more  striking  than  elegant.  Beyond  these  points 
the  Chinook  jargon  is  never  used. 

The  aborigines  of  any  country  are  quick  to  adopt  the 
vices  of  the  white  man,  but  much  slower  in  assuming  his 
virtues.  This  is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  as  usually  the 
whites  with  whom  they  first  come  in  contact  are  not  of 
a  class  whose  virtues  are  conspicuous,  and  the  unsuspect- 
ing native  has  the  smooth  paths  of  vice  pointed  out  more 
often  than  the  steep  and  rugged  road  of  virtue.  The 
aborigines'  love  of  intoxicants  is  great,  and  he  will  do 
almost  anything  to  procure  them. 

When  the  Russians  first  occupied  the  country,  they 
taught  the  natives  to  make  quass,  a  cooling  and  compara- 
tively harmless  drinic,  concocted  of  rj-e  meal  mixed  with 
water  which  they  placed  in  a  cask  until  fermented.  Lat- 
terly the  natives  learned  to  add  sugar,  flour,  dried  apples, 
and  a  few  hops,  pu^^ting  the  whole  into  a  cask  until 
cleared  by  fermentation.  A  strong  intoxicant  is  the 
r':^3ult.  Another  home-brewed  intoxicant,  called  hoochi- 
noo,  is  made  of  fermented  molasses  and  flour,  and  is  a 
vile  kind  of  liquor.  When  imbibed,  it  fairly  crazes  the 
natives,  fitting  them  for  any  deeds  of  violence  or  vicious- 
ness.  They  are  fond  of  Jamaica  ginger,  lemon  extract, 
I'lorida  water,  cologne,  or,  in  fact,  anything  having  fra- 
grance or  a   '  tang." 


!'l 


It 


T! 


M 


no 


ALASKA 


Totem  poles  are  found  in  every  village  along  the 
southeastern  coast.  There  is  some  difference  of  opinion 
as  to  their  real  significance.  They  are  intended,  in  part, 
to  commemorate  deeds  of  bravery,  or  some  virtue,  in  the 
lives  of  the  departed,  near  whose  graves  they  are  reared ; 
also  to  indicate  the  family  arms  of  the  persons  for  whom 
they  are  erected,  and  whose  habitations  they  adorn. 
Some  tribes  are  represented  by  the  crow  or  the  hawk ; 
others  have  the  bear,  the  whale,  or  the  beaver,  as  their 
distinctive  tribal  emblem.  These  poles  are  elaborately 
carved  from  top  to  bottom,  some  reaching  the  height  of 
fifty  feet,  and  being  three  or  four  feet  in  diameter.  The 
height  signifies  the  importance  of  the  individual.  These 
people  liave  an  oral  mythology  of  the  most  fabulous 
character,  handed  down  from  father  to  son.  Many  of 
the  curious  carvings  on  the  totem  poles  are  designed  to 
tell,  in  story,  some  event  in  the  history  or  tribe  of  the 
individual. 

Despite  the  efTorts  of  missionaries  and  teachers,  and 
the  influence  of  civilisation,  witchcraft  is  still  believed  in 
to  a  greater  or  less  extent.  Evil  .spirits  still  take  posses- 
sion of  the  old,  the  decrepit,  and  the  deformed,  some- 
times of  the  young,  and  these  must  be  exorcised  ;  it  being 
considered  a  matter  of  duty  to  dispossess  the  unfortunate 
of  his  tormentors.  Death  sometimes  results  from  the 
tortures  undergone  by  those  "  bewitched." 

Cremation  was  formerly  practised  throughout  the 
whole  coast  country  of  Alaska,  but  it  is  fast  disappearing 
now,  except  where  it  is  followed  by  tribes  removed  from 
missionary  influences.  It  may  be  here  suggested,  h(iw- 
ever,   that  the  energies   expended  by  missionaries  and 


ALASKA   lA'DIANS 


III 


teachers  in  eradicating  this  custom,  time-honoured  in 
its  antiquity,  might  have  borne  better  fruits  if  spent  in 
other  directions. 

The  dead  are  usually  placed  in  boxes,  not  long  enough 
to  permit  the  whole  body  to  recline  at  full  length,  so  it 
is  jointed  and  placed  in  a  sitting  posture,  and  the  box 
kept  above  ground.  Sometimes  the  location  of  a  grave 
is  on  a  high  point,  where  the  departed  spirit  can  look  out 
upon  his  former  haunts.  Some  of  the  personal  effects  of 
the  deceased  are  often  placed  beside  him. 

The  shamans,  or  doctors,  are  never  cremated,  but  lie 
in  state  four  days — one  day  in  each  corner  of  the  dwell- 
ing,— then  the  corpse  is  conveyed  to  the  dead-house, 
where  it  is  seated  in  an  upright  position,  with  blankets 
and  paraphernalia  to  add  to  its  comfort  in  the  spirit  land. 

Among  the  Thlinkits,  the  name  by  which  most  of  the 
natives  in  South-east  Alaska  are  known,  cremation  was 
formerly  the  favourite  method  of  disposing  of  the  dead. 
The  bodies  of  "witches"  and  slaves  were  disposed  of 
with  great  secrecy,  but  those  of  chiefs  lay  in  state.  The 
people  observed  certain  rites,  then  the  body  was  cre- 
mated, the  totem  pole  erected  to  his  memory,  and  his 
ashes  were  incased  in  the  base. 

There  is  positive  evidence  that  cannibalism  was  prac- 
tised among  these  people  upon  the  death  of  chiefs;  the 
sacrifice  of  slaves  was  common,  that  their  spirits  might 
accompany  them  into  the  spirit  land.  It  is  highly  prob- 
able that  the  bodies  of  these  slaves  were  cooked  and 
eaten.  Medicine  men  have  sometimes  been  known  to 
devour  portions  of  corpses,  believing  that  they  would 
acquire   control   of   the  spirit  and    gain    influence  over 


1 

1 

■■  i' 

f 

1      . 

,  '  \ 

1   p 

i  i 


1    ! 

i 

1 

) 

( 

■ 

'  i 


MHI 


II 


112 


ALASA'A 


demon  spirits.  As  the  giant  tree  yields  to  the  axe  of 
the  woodman,  so  are  most  of  these  practices  and  customs 
giving  way  before  the  advance  of  civilisation. 


INDIAN  DOCTOR. 


The  Alaska  Indians  are  inveterate  gamblers.  The 
favourite  game  is  played  with  a  handful  of  small  sticks 
of  different  colours,   called   by   various  names,    such  as 


;  1 


A/.ASA-.t    IxniAXS 


113 


crab,  whale,  duck,  otter,  etc.  The  phiyer  shuffles  all 
the  sticks  together,  then  places  them  under  bunches  of 
moss.  The  object  is  to  guess  under  which  pile  is  the 
whale  or  the  duck,  etc.  Simple  as  it  looks,  the  natives 
often  lose  all  their  possessions  at  the  game.  This  kind 
of  gambling  is  much  the  same  as  that  called  "  sing- 
gamble  "  among  I'uget  Sound  Indians,  the  latter  of 
whom  accompany  the  shuffling  and  hiding  of  sticks  with 
a  weird  chant. 

They  are  remarkably  expert  in  carving  and  engraving, 
as  the  numerous  totem  poles,  arrowheads,  spearheads, 
and  silver  and  copper  ornaments  prove.  Bullets,  spear- 
heads, and  arrowheads,  as  well  as  ornaments  of  various 
kinds,  are  made  by  the  natives  of  copper,  found  on 
White  River  in  the  interior  country,  and  not  on  Copper 
River,  as  is  generally  supposed.  Baskets  of  ingenious 
design  and  colouring  are  made  from  grasses  and  roots; 
and  the  celebrated  Chilkat  blanket  is  made  from  the 
wool  of  the  mountain  sheep.  Some  of  these  blankets 
are  really  beautiful  in  design  and  workmanship,  many  of 
them  being  sold  for  one  hundred  dollars.  They  are 
woven  on  rude  hand  looms,  and  it  usually  takes  a  native 
woman  six  months  to  complete  one.  The  real  article  is, 
however,  becoming  scarce,  as  most  of  those  now  seen 
contain  an  admixture  of  the  coarse  yarn  of  commerce. 

Before  the  strong  arm  of  the  law  stepped  in,  an  injury 
of  one  native  by  another  could  be  satisfied  by  the  pay- 
ment of  some  article  of  value,  usually  a  blanket.  Even 
murder  could  be  atoned  for  and  forgiven,  if  a  sufficient 
number  of  blankets  were  handed  over  to  the  murdered 
man's  relatives.     The  law  of  "  An  eye  for  an  eye.  and  a 


UA 


il 


1     ■" 


Mi- 


j 

^ ' 

f 

!           ' 

'\ 

-          -     ^ 

■■■t",    ^ 

j 

f 

114 


ALASh'A 


tooth  for  a  tooth,"  was  modified  by  these  people.  An 
innocent  person  might  be  sacrificed,  and  this  was  con- 
sidered an  equivalent  and  taken  as  full  satisfaction  and 
the  murderer  was  allowed  to  go  free. 

The  canoe  of  the  native  is  to  him  a  necessity.  It  is 
made  of  wood  in  South-cast  Alaska;  in  the  far  north,  of 
skins.  In  the  southern  portions  the  wood  selected  is 
usually  the  red  and  yellow  cedar.  Many  of  these  canoes 
have  graceful  lines,  elaborately  carved  prows  and  sterns, 
and  are  frequently  large  enough  to  carry  forty  or  fifty 
men.  They  are  cut  out  of  the  whole  tree,  the  magni- 
ficent yellow  cedar,  which  frequently  grows  to  a  great 
height,  and  is  from  seven  to  ten  feet  in  diameter,  being 
the  best.  The  sides  are  carefully  modelled,  worked,  and 
bent  by  the  use  of  hot  water  so  as  to  have  the  required 
graceful  curve,  and  the  canoe,  when  finished  and  dried, 
always  retains  the  shape  given  to  it  by  the  builder. 

The  paint  used  by  the  natives  to  decorate  their  canoes, 
totems,  and  faces,  is  of  two  colours  only,  red  and  black. 
It  is  made  of  a  kind  of  rock  found  in  the  country,  which 
is  rubbed  over  the  surface  of  a  coarse  stone,  and  as  it  is 
ground  off  water  or  oil  is  mixed  with  it,  and  it  makes  a 
very  excellent  substitute  for  paint.  Brushes  are  made  of 
feathers,  or  the  sinews  of  animals.  The  Eskimos  of  the 
Arctic  find  the  same  kind  of  stone  in  that  region,  and  use 
it  for  painting  or  decorating  their  sleds.  The  Aleuts, 
especially  west  of  Unalaska,  are  artistic  in  their  work 
with  grasses  and  roots,  and  the  delicacy  with  which  they 
weave  and  braid  them  evinces  wonderful  skill, 

It  is  the  practice  of  the  natives  of  South-east  Alaska  to 
blacken  their  faces  in  summer,  by  rubbing  in  soot  mixed 


lit 


•     i  t 

!  f 

■ 

F 

'«, 

;      I 


"^1 


ALASKA    lA'D/AXS 


>«5 


with  seal  oil.  This  is  done  to  prevent  the  sun  blistering 
them  when  travelling  on  the  water.  It  also  acts  as  a 
shade  to  their  eyes,  which  would  otherwise  suffer  from 
the  glaring  reflection  of  the  sun  ,  rays. 

The  houses  of  natives  in  South-east  Alaska  are  con- 
structed of  hewn  boards  or  planks,  and  in  some  of  the 
larger  villages  they  are  built  of  massive  logs,  very  similar 
to  the  log  houses  built  by  whites  in  heavily  timbered 
countries.  In  the  centre  there  is  a  square  opening,  eight 
or  ten  feet  across,  which  is  neatly  filled  with  gravel,  upon 
which  the  fire  is  built.  The  smoke  ascends  to  the  roof 
through  an  opening  made  lengthwise,  with  the  comb 
several  feet  long,  of  boards  or  thin  slabs,  that  can  be 
raised  on  either  side  so  as  to  i  ake  a  perfect  draft,  ac- 
cording to  the  direction  the  wind  is  blowing.  Around 
the  fireplace,  the  floor  is  built  a  few  inches  high,  and 
bunks  are  placed  against  the  sides  of  the  h<iuse  in  such 
number  as  the  occupants  require.  There  is  rarely  more 
than  one  room  in  the  house. 

The  house  of  the  Aleuts,  or  natives  of  the  Aleutian 
Archipelago,  is  called  a  barabara,  and  is  a  sort  of  sod 
house  and  dugout  combined.  The  entrance  is  usually 
by  a  dark  and  narrow  opening,  through  which  the  natives 
crawl,  and  which  leads  into  the  main  room. 


IN 


f  i   '  1 


!    i 


I" 


1 


■  i 


CHAPTER  X 

MISSIONARIES   AND   THEIR   WORK 

IT  was  in  1793,  that  Catherine,  Empress  of  Russia,  sent 
missionaries  to  Russian  America  to  instruct  the  nat- 
ives in  religion,  and  at  the  same  time,  also  sent  convicts 
from  Siberia  to  teach  them  agriculture.  The  result  of  this 
strange  admixture  was  that,  in  ten  years,  the  number  of 
natives  was  largely  reduced,  the  outrages  of  unscrupulous 
men  being  so  unspeakable.  The  lives  of  natives  were 
valued  no  more  than  those  of  dogs;  and  the  spirit  and 
life  were  nearly  stamped  out  of  such  as  survived. 

The  Russian  proverb — "  Heaven  is  high  and  the  C/:ar 
distant  " — was  followed  literally,  and  the  indignities 
practised  upon  the  unfortunate  natives  were  without 
limit.  A  few  priests  of  the  Greek  faith  tried  to  stem  the 
tide,  but  succeeded  in  an  indifferent  manner.  Their 
missions  were  established  at  different  points  on  the  coast, 
and  even  in  the  interior.  The  natives,  attracted  by  the 
pomp  and  ceremony  of  the  church,  were  attentive  listen- 
ers and  observers.  Hut  they  understood  very  little,  and 
not  much  information  was  imparted,  aside  from  teaching 
the  Russians  and  half-breed  children  the  rites  of  the 
church.  Indian  attendance  was  not  encouraged  in  the 
Russian  schools. 

116 


AflSS/O.VANIf.S  A. YD    rilf-.lR    WOKK 


ia,  sent 

K 

he  nat- 

m- 

:onvicts 

^K* 

t  of  this 

1 

mbcr  of 

^F^ 

upulous 

^K  ' 

es  were 

■1 

»irit  and 

E 

jd. 

P 

the  C/.ar 

B 

dignities 

H 

without 

p 

stcMTi  the 

H 

•.     Their 

1 

he  coast, 

■ 

;d  by  the 

E 

ve  listcn- 

1 

ittle,  and 

1 

teaching 

1 

es  of  the 

■ 

ed  in  the 

■ 

117 


During  the  Russian  occupancy,  I'inns,  Swedes,  and 
Germans  were  largely  employed  by  the  fur  company, 
and  a  Lutheran  missionary  was  sent  out  to  Sitka  for  their 
benefit,  and  a  mission  established  in  1.S45,  The  Russian 
schools  and  churches,  for  the  most  part,  were  closed  in 
1S67,  when  the  American  flag  displaced  that  of  Russia; 
and  Russians  and  other  Europeans  returned  to  their  re- 
spective countries,  leaving  the  people  "  corrupted  and 
degraded  by  their  influence. "  The  Lutheran  i)reacher 
with  his  flock  also  departed,  United  States  soldiers  were 
placed  in  frontier  posts,  and  a  new  set  of  traders  took 
the  places  of  the  former  ones. 

For  seventeen  years  Congress  neglected  to  provide  any 
form  of  civil  government  for  her  new  possessions;  all 
progress  was  checked,  and  healthful  development  was  at 
a  discount.  This  was  no  doubt  due  to  the  bitter  de- 
nunciations of  the  purchase  of  Alaska,  and  the  ridicule 
heaped  upon  what  was  sneeringly  referred  to  as  "  Seward's 
I""olly."  Alaska  was  considered  by  the  American  people 
as  a  whole  to  be  an  inhospitable  region  of  perpetual  snow 
and  ice;  peopled  by  ignorant,  fierce,  and  degraded  sav- 
ages— notwithstanding  the  statement  which  has  been  so 
often  quoted  from  Mr.  Seward's  speech  on  Alaska: 
"  That  it  must  be  a  fastidious  person  who  complains  of 
a  climate  in  which,  while  the  eagle  delights  to  soar,  the 
humming-bird  does  not  disdain  to  flutter." 

Finally,  the  tales  of  gold  discovery,  coupled  with  the 
work  of  American  and  other  missionaries,  stimulated  our 
Government  into  attempting  an  assumption  of  its  duty. 
It  is  an  undoubted  fact  that  the  present  geographical 
knowledge  of  this  vast  country  has  been  largely  gained 


i    I 


^ 

:    i- 

1  , 

jiU 

\ 

1 

in: 
li:: 


« 


o 

•• 

■    i 

1 

0 

• 

0 

o 

0 

0 

ii8 


A  I.  ASA' A 


through  devoted  missionaries,  and  it  is  also  due  to  this 
class  of  persons  that  the  natives  liave  learned  "  that  the 
white  men  are  not  all  bad,"  a  belief  strf)ngly  implanted 
in  their  minds  from  their  intercourse  -vith  vicious  and 
unscrupulous  persons. 

In  1885,  Congress  first  made  an  ap'-ropriation  for  the 
Alaska  public-school  system,  and  rince  that  time  over 
thirty  schools  have  been  esLTh';.-,hed  at  different  points 
throughout  the  Territory,  and  money  appropria  ed  by  the 
General  Government  is  annually  distributed  among  the 
established  church  denominations,  which  goes  towards 
supporting  their  respective  schools. 

The  first  school  in  Alaska  was  organised  at  Kadiak  by 
Gregory  Shelikoff,  in  1784.  The  first  church  building 
was  also  erected  there;  it  still  exists,  but  the  school  has 
been  extinct  for  a  quarter  of  a  century. 

The  Indian  industrial  t  ;iining  schools  have  proved 
excellent  educational  institutions.  Among  these,  three 
deserve  especial  mention.  They  are  located  at  Sitka. 
New  Metlakahtla,  and  Koserefski.  The  school  at  Sitka  is 
jiartiaily  aided  by  the  Government  and  is  under  the  Pres- 
byterian Hoard  of  Home  Missions,  that  at  Koserefski  is 
under  Roman  Cath(dic  supervision,  and  that  at  New 
Metlakahtla  is  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  William  Dun- 
can, to  whose  work  reference  is  made  elsewhere  in  this 
chapter. 

In  these  schools  the  boys  are  taught  painting,  carpen- 
try, shoemaking,  and  other  trades.  The  girls  are  in- 
structed in  cooking,  baking,  sewing,  and  all  brandies  <if 
plaip.  housekeeping,  the  j)urpose,  in  short,  of  these  schools 
being  to  civilise  and  Christianise  the  native  children. 


^t  the 
anted 
and 

ir  the 

over 

)oints 

)V  the 


I 


I    i\ 


:   i 


li 


I  I:    i 


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1 ' ' '  i' 

fUJ^ 

;                       J 

•'k'". 


1  ^-n 


MISSIONAKI£S  AND    THF.IK    IV  OK  A' 


119 


At  Juneau,  Sitka,  Unalaska,  St.  Michaels,  and  three 
or  four  other  points  along  the  coast,  the  Russian  Church 
is  still  labouring,  especially  with  the  natives,  among  whom 
there  are  a  large  number  of  communicants.  This  church, 
the  first  established  in  ^Alaska,  had  a  few — a  very  few — 
noble  exceptions  among  their  priest.s  who  did  good  work 
for  the  natives.  Ikil  while  they  were  solicitous  for  the 
.spiritual  welfare  of  the  natives,  their  attendance  at  school 
did  not  seem  to  be  desired  or  encouraged. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Church  has  had  in  Alaska,  since 
it  passed  into  the  possession  of  the  United  States,  a 
number  of  earnest  workers  in  their  cause,  principal  among 
whom  are  Father  Barnum,  I'ather  Althoff,  and  I'ather 
Tosi.  Tile  former  has  .spent  a  number  of  years  in  the 
interior,  principally  along  the  T.ower  Yukon ;  I'ather 
Althoff  labouring  in  South-east  Alaska  for  over  si.xteen 
years,  during  which  time  he  founded  at  Junrau  St.  Ann's 
Hospital;  and  Fiitlier  Tosi,  after  twenty-five  years  spent 
in  the  interior,  died  last  year  on  his  way  to  civilisation 
from  his  field  of  labour. 

Thicc  years  ago  the  I'-pIscopal  Church  created  a 
diocese  of  Alaska  presided  over  by  Jiishop  Rowe,  whose 
residence  is  at  Sitka.  Since  assuming  the  charge,  he 
has  made  long  journeys  into  the  interior,  coming  into 
personal  contact  with  the  natives,  and  labouring  earnestly 
in  his  efforts  to  extend  the  influence  of  his  church  among 
these  people. 

The  most  remarkable  and  interesting  missionary  settle- 
ment in  Alaska  is  Mew  Metlakahtla.  Some  forty  years 
ago,  a  young  Englishman  named  William  Duncan  landed 
at  Fort  Simpson,  about  seven  miles  south  of  the  Alaskan 


120 


ALASKA 


boundary.  He  came  alone,  knowing  nothing  of  the 
people  among  whom  he  was  about  to  cast  his  lot,  but  at 
the  early  age  of  twenty-one  solemnly  dedicated  his  life 
to  the  cause  of  raising  from  barbarism  a  race  whose  fre- 
quent acts  of  cannibalism  stamped  them  as  among  the 
most  savage  people  on  the  face  of  the  earth. 

Metlakahtla  was  the  village  that  Mr.  Duncan  estab- 
lished nearly  half  a  century  ago.  There  eight  hundred 
natives  lived  and  prospered.  Taught  by  their  devoted 
friend,  they  sawed  logs,  built  houses,  canned  salmon, 
and  engaged  in  nearly  every  branch  of  business  that 
would  utilise  the  products  of  the  country.  A  church 
edifice,  that  would  do  credit  to  many  a  larger  white 
settlement,  reared  its  spire  heavenward,  and  every  man, 
woman,  and  child  in  the  settlement  regularly  sought 
religious  consolation  there. 

But  a  representative  of  the  Church  of  England  ap- 
peared among  them,  and  insisted  that  that  portion  of  the 
sacrament  wherein  wine  is  administered,  and  which  Mr. 
Duncan  had  ignored,  should  be  observed.  His  reason 
for  not  carrying  out  this  important  tenet  of  the  church 
was  that  he  had  found  his  greatest  trouble  in  teachiiii,^ 
the  natives  to  avoid  intoxicating  drinks;  and  he  reasoneil 
that,  if  he  permitted  wine  at  the  sacrament,  his  people- 
would  not  understand  wh>  they  should  not  indulge  in 
liquor  at  other  times. 

Mr.  Duncan's  prejudice  in  this  matter  was  so  stror  .': 
that  he  saitl  if  his  course  were  not  permitted,  he  would 
take  his  people,  like  the  Pilgrims  of  old,  to  some  plact^ 
where  they  could  exercise  religious  liberty,  untrammelled 
by    church   dogmas,     '."he  church  ruling  was  insistent. 


the 
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MISSIOXAKIES  AXD    TIIEIK    WORK 


121 


and  Mr.  Duncan,  equally  determined,  went  to  Washinj^- 
ton,  sought  President  Cleveland,  and  explained  how  the 
Church  of  England  had  attempted  to  supplant  him  with 
another  minister  among  the  people  to  whom  he  had 
devoted  his  life. 

He  was  assured  by  the  President  that  this  Government 
would  ofTer  an  asylum  where  they  could  enjoy  religious 
freedom ;  and  promised  that  Congress  would  take  action 
looking  to  their  protection.  Accordingly,  on  March  3, 
1 891,  a  bill  was  passed,  setting  aside  Annette  Island  for 
the  use  and  benefit  of  these  natives,  but  immediately 
following  his  visit  to  Washington,  and  upon  the  strength 
of  the  promise  that  his  people  would  be  protected,  they 
abandoned  their  improvements  and  property,  gave  up 
their  comfortable  honjcs,  and  with  only  a  few  household 
goods,  went  out  into  the  wilderness.  On  the  seventh 
day  of  August,  1887,  they  arrived  at  their  present  home, 
naming  it  New  Metlakahtla,  and  under  the  graceful  folds 
of  the  Stars  and  Stripes,  which  they  had  flung  to  the 
breeze,  they  solemnly  transferred  their  allegiance  from 
Canada  to  the  United  States, 

In  the  past  twelve  years,  a  settlement  has  been  built  up 
that  bears  witness  of  wonderful  progress  in  civilisation  by 
these  people.  They  live  in  comfortable  houses,  many  of 
them  handsome  and  homelik':.  Every  branch  of  bu'^iness  is 
represented  as  in  their  old  home,  only  in  a  more  advanced 
scale,  and  the  people  are  self-sustaining,  industrious,  and 
happy.  And  the  secret  of  success  of  this  missionary  set- 
tlement is  its  isolation  from  white  settlements,  and  the 
natives  have  been  compelled  by  strict  discipline  and 
teachings  to  abstain  from  association  with  the  whites. 


i  ! 


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122 


ALASATA 


\ 


Rev.  Hall  Young  and  wife,  formerly  at  Fort  Wranfjel, 
Professor  and  Mrs.  John  A.  Tuck,  of  the  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church,  stationed  at  Unalaska,  Mr.  and  Mrs, 
\V.  T.  Lopp.  Congregational,  at  Cape  Prince  of  Wales, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  I.  Looniis  (iould,  Presbyterian,  at  Jack- 
son, Rev.  and  Mrs.  E.  A.  Austin,  Presbyterian,  at  Sitka, 
have  all  worked  for  a  number  of  years  with  a  devotion 
rarely  equalled. 

The  noble  army  of  martyrs  has  also  been  recruited 
in  Alaskan  borders.  Father  Juvenal,  a  Russian  priest, 
was  killed  at  Cook  Inlet  for  his  interference  with  poly- 
gamy. Archbishop  Seghers,  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church,  was  murdered  on  the  Yukon  by  a  travelling 
companion.  A  teacher  named  Edwards  was  killed  at 
Kake  village  in  1891,  while  attempting  to  enforce  the 
law  in  regard  to  the  landing  of  whiskey;  and  in  the  sum- 
mer of  1893,  Harrison  R.  Thornton,  a  young  missionary 
and  teacher  who,  with  his  wife,  was  stationed  at  Cape 
Prince  of  Wales,  was  cruelly  murdered  by  Eskimos,  for 
which  act  there  was  no  cause  and  which  could  have  been 
prevented. 

Measured  from  a  religious  point  of  view,  the  results 
obtained  through  the  incessant  and  self-sacrificing  labour 
of  the  missionaries  of  Alaska  cannot  be  said  to  be  en- 
tirely satisfactory  to  those  whose  interest  has  been 
awakened  in  the  spiritual  welfare  of  the  natives  of 
Alaska. 

Thousands  of  dollars  have  been  expended  in  the  erec- 
tion of  buildings  and  the  equipment  of  schools  ant! 
churches,  and  in  three  notable  instances,  namely.  Juneau, 
Sitka,  and  Unalaska,  industrial  schools  have  been  main- 


M/SSWXAKJES  AXD    Til  El  K    WOKK 


'23 


tained  for  several  years,  where  children  have  remained 
until  they  learned  some  trade  or  occupation.  While  tluir 
educational  progress  has  been  satisfactory,  they  have 
been  constantly  under  the  influence  of  white  associations, 
coming  in  daily  contact  with  frequenters  of  the  saloon 
and  the  dance-house,  and  many  instances  are  known 
where  young  native  women,  upon  leaving  school,  have 
quickly  fallen  into  a  life  of  dissipation  and  its  accom- 
panying evils. 

The  ou'^stion  has  often  been  asked,  how  good  results 
could  be  expected  in  the  education  of  native  children 
where  the  environments  are  such  that  even  white  boys 
and  girls  could  not  escape  the  allurements  and  tempta- 
tions that  have  proven  a  pitfall  to  so  many  native  child- 
ren  in  Alaska. 

There  is  one,  and  only  one  solution  to  this  problem, 
namely,  the  abandonment  of  these  institutions  and  re- 
moval to  points  away  from  white  associations.  Under 
these  conditions,  they  will  grow  up  and  mature  in  an 
atmosphere  of  right  living  and  good  teachings,  among 
their  own  people.  There  is  nothing  in  common  between 
the  whites  and  natives  of  Alaska,  and  the  happiness  and 
contentment  of  one  are  not  dependent  upon  the  other,  and 
will  not  be  for  several  generations  yet  to  come. 


( 
f 


'     « 


.,;  :.i. 


■■I 


CHAPTER  XI 

PICTURKSQUK    ALASKA 

THE  tourist  route  to  Alaska  extends  from  Seattle  to 
Sitka,  and  lies  over  a  course  which,  for  nearly 
twelve  hundred  miles,  is  almost  entirely  through  narrow- 
channels  bordered  by  high  mountains  that  completely 
prevent  the  sea  from  becoming  rough.  If  an  occasional 
glimpse  of  the  waters  of  the  North  Pacific  Ocean  were 
not  obtained,  when  passing  from  the  shelter  of  one  island 
behind  the  precipitous  shores  of  another,  one  would  never 
realise  that  he  was  enjoying  all  the  pleasures  of  a  sea 
voyage,  with  but  few  of  the  discomforts. 

The  vessels  are  large,  comfortable,  and  convenient, 
and  the  appointments  throughout  are  especially  adapted 
for  the  sort  of  trip  made :  and  every  facility  is  afforded 
for  complete  enjoyment,  and  every  opportunity  given  to 
see  and  learn  all  there  is  to  discover  on  this  greatest  of 
tourists'  routes. 

The  universal  verdict  of  those  who  are  so  fortunate  as 
to  be  able  to  take  a  trip  to  Alaska  is  that  it  is  one  round 
of  charming  surprises,  and  the  scenery  superior  to  that 
found  in  any  other  part  of  the  civilised  world.  The 
masters  of  the  steamers  have  all  been  on  thi:i  route  for 
many  years,  and  they  never  forget,   for  an  instant,   to 

124 


'      B 


PICTURESQUE  ALASKA 


<^5 


afford  the  passengers  every  opportunity  to  see  and  enjoy 
to  the  fullest  extent  all  sights  and  pleasures  possible. 

The  most  favourable  time  for  making  the  trip  is  from 
the  first  of  June  until  the  last  of  August;  yet  a  month 
earlier  or  later  presents  many  opportunities  for  enjoy- 
ment. The  long  period  of  twilight  which  prevails  in 
this  latitude,  in  the  spring  and  fall  months,  strikes  one  as 
strange,  but  an  excellent  view  is  often  obtained  in  this 
subdued  light. 

The  dry  subject  of  enumeration  of  the  articles  needed 
on  this  trip  may  be  abbreviate  I  by  the  simple  suggestion 
that  one  should  carry  such  articles  as  are  usually  needed 
on  a  journey  of  two  or  three  weeks,  being  careful  to  have 
clothing  that  is  warm  and  suitable  for  an  unusually  rainy 
country. 

Seattle,  which  bears  the  illustrious  title  of  the  Queen 
City  of  the  North-west,  is  situated  upon  an  indentation 
of  Puget  Sound,  forming  a  perfect  harbour,  almost  circu- 
lar in  shape,  and  named  Klliott  Hay. 

It  is  a  substantial,  well-built  city,  having  a  population 
of  more  than  seventy  thousand,  and  it  presents  in  every 
wa}-  the  air  and  activity  of  a  live,  bustling,  and  enter- 
prising city.  Although  founded  'way  back  in  the  fifties, 
the  real  growth  of  Seattle  dates  from  18S9,  when  the 
entire  business  portion  of  the  city  was  laid  in  ashes,  and 
almost  every  vestige  of  the  early  ill-built  town  was  swept 
away. 

The  business  streets  are  lined  with  modern  brick  and 
stone  blocks,  elegant  in  construction  ant!  imposing  in 
appearance.  The  city  is  modern  in  every  respect.  It 
has  a  magnificent  .system  of  water-works  and  .sewers,  is 


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126 


ALASKA 


well  lighted  and  has  good  streets,  over  which  there  is  a 
complete  network  of  street  railways  reaching  to  the  dif- 
ferent suburban  towns,  and  to  the  many  beautiful  parks 
and  lakeside  resorts,  for  which  the  city  is  justly  noted 
and  which  are  the  admiration  of  the  tourist. 

Lake  Washington,  the  pride  and  delight  of  Seattleites, 
is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  lying  east  of  the  city,  about 
twenty-five  miles  long,  and  averaging  three  in  width. 
Its  shores  are  dotted  with  summer  residences,  and  its 
bosom  bears  numberless  pleasure  craft  of  varied  form  and 
design,  while  many  steamers  ply  the  lake  for  commercial 
purposes.  The  lake  is  reached  by  four  lines  of  street 
railways, — two  cable  and  two  electric.  Adjoining  Lake 
Washington,  and  but  a  short  distance  north,  is  Lake 
Union,  a  smaller  but  fine  lake,  surrounded  by  pleasant 
homes;  and  still  another  beautiful  sheet  of  water  is  Green 
Lake,  north-east  of  the  city.  All  of  these  lakes  contain 
abundance  of  trout  and  other  fish.  Sixty  miles  away,  to 
the  south,  snow-covered  Mt.  Rainier  raises  its  lofty  head, 
standing  hoary  and  magnificent.  It  overlooks  the  great 
inland  sea  called  Puget  Sound,  and  the  many  cities  and 
villages  that  thrive  upon  its  shores. 

Among  the  numerous  parks  within  easy  distance  of 
Seattle  are  Ravenna,  Woodland,  Madrona,  Leschi, 
Madison  Street,  and  Kinnear,  beautiful  natural  parks 
to  which  art  has  lent  completing  touches.  The  city  has 
excellent  schools,  and  the  different  religious  denom- 
inations are  well  represented,  there  being  fifty-six  places 
of  worship  in  the  city.  There  are  also  two  opera-houses, 
the  Seattle  Theatre  being  one  of  the  finest  on  the  Pacific 
coast.     The  city  is  undoubtedly  the  commercial  metro- 


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PICTURESQUE  ALASKA 


127 


polis  of  the  North-west.  It  is  the  entrepot  for  an  immense 
stretch  of  country  rich  in  lumber,  coal,  and  other  natural 
resources;  the  wonderful  shipment  of  lumber  being  the 
most  important  industry,  although  the  coal  business  is 
large  and  steadily  growing. 

Tacoma,  called  by  its  citizens  the  "  City  of  Destiny," 
is  situated  on  Commencement  Bay  thirty  miles  south  of 
Seattle,  and  is  a  point  often  visited  by  tourists  en  route 
to  Alaska.  Tacoma  is  an  enterprising  city  of  some  forty- 
five  thousand  people,  and  has  had  a  phenomenal  growth. 
It  is  the  second  city  in  size  and  importance  in  the  .State 
and  is  modern  in  all  respects,  having  many  business  enter- 
prises, manufactures,  electric  and  cable  railways,  schools, 
churches,  etc.  South  of  the  city,  about  thirty  miles 
distant,   rises    Mt.    Rainier,   but   in    Tacoma   the   name 

Rainier  "  is  never  heard,  except  from  a  stranger  or 
perhaps  a  Seattle  man.  Here  it  is  lovingly  referred  to 
as  "  Mt.  Tacoma,"  and  the  mountain  with  the  dual  name 
has  been  for  years  the  source  of  much  good-natured 
badinage  between  the  two  rival  cities  of  Puget  Sound, 
as  well  as  a  source  of  amusement  and  sometimes  of  per- 
plexity to  those  not  acquainted  with  the  contention  over 
the  name  of  the  grand  old  sentinel  which  overlooks  the 
great  inland  sea. 

A  journey  of  forty  miles  on  the  waters  of  Puget  Sound 
brings  the  vessel  to  its  first  stop  on  the  route — at  Port 
Townsend — having  a  population  of  thirty-five  hundred 
people.  It  is  most  picturesquely  located,  having  a 
beautiful  harbour  with  water  of  sufificient  width  and  depth 
to  permit  the  largest  ocean  vessels  to  sail  up  to  its 
w  harves.     The  business  portion  of  the  town  lies  princi- 


128 


ALASKA 


pally  along  the  water  front,  the  residences  occupying 
a  level  plateau  fifty  feet  o-  so  above,  .'''Wording  a  charm- 
ing view  of  the  Sound  for  many  miles.  On  a  commanding 
spot  is  a  beautiful  stone  customs  building  just  completed 
by  the  Government  at  a  cost  of  two  hundred  thousand 
dollars,  and  a  half-mile  farther  to  the  west  stands  a 
strikingly  handsome  court-house.  This  is  the  last  port 
of  entry  in  United  States  territory  until  Alaska  is  reached, 
and  all  vessels  clear  here  before  starting  on  their  long 
voyage  to  the  north.  At  present  the  only  communica- 
tion with  the  Puget  Sound  cities  is  by  several  lines  of 
steamers  each  day,  but  there  is  good  prospect  of  the  rail- 
road, now  running  but  a  score  or  so  miles  to  the  south, 
being  extended  so  as  to  afford  direct  railroad  communi- 
cation with  Olympia  and  the  east. 

The  Alaska  boat  usually  takes  on  passengers  in  greater 
or  less  numbers  at  this  port,  discharging  also  freight  and 
passengers  for  San  Francisco  on  its  return  voyage. 

A  delightful  ride  of  three  hours  across  the  Strait  of 
Juan  de  Fuca,  where  sometimes  a  little  motion  of  the 
vessel  is  felt  should  wind  blow  from  the  ocean,  seventy- 
five  miles  to  the  west,  brings  us  to  Victoria,  where  a  wait 
of  an  hour  or  so  affords  opportunity,  for  those  v/ho  are 
desirous  of  doing  so,  to  step  on  English  soil  and  admire 
the  handsome  buildings,  neat  gardens,  and  grass  plats, 
and  to  observe  the  manners  of  a  community  whose  cv- 
er}'  appearance  stamps  them  as  wholly  and  essentially 
English. 

Just  across  the  little  strip  of  water,  to  the  north,  the 
staff  bearing  aloft  the  British  flag  can  be  seen,  and  under 
its   shadow    small   squads  of  marines  are  distinguished 


ipying 
:han'n- 
anding 
ipleted 
ousand 
ands  a 
St  port 
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M 


riCTVRESQUE  ALASKA 


129 


going  through  a  brief  guard  mauceuvre,  while  an  oc- 
casional blast  from  a  bugle  echoes  a  call  across  the 
water  from  the  English  naval  station  of  the  North  Pacific 
at  Esquimalt. 

When  the  steamer  is  again  under  way  the  journey  to 
Alaska  really  begins,  and  the  steady  pufifing  of  the 
engine  and  the  vibration  of  the  ship  are  felt  for  three 
days,  while  the  six  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  before 
reaching  the  first  stopping-place  in  Alaska,  twenty  miles 
across  the  boundary,  arc  travelled. 

It  is  not  unusual,  however,  for  the  steamer  to  put  in 
for  coal  at  Nanaimo,  a  town  about  sixty-five  miles  north 
of  Victoria,  on  the  east  side  of  Vancouver  Island.  Ex- 
tensive deposits  of  a  superior  quality  of  bituminous  coal 
are  here  located,  large  quantities  of  which  are  shipped  to 
San  Frai  isco  and  Alaska.  About  two  thousand  men 
are  employed  in  these  mines,  and  the  coal  is  sold  at  three 
dollars  per  ton.  Three  miles  north  of  Nanaimo,  Depart- 
ure Bay  is  also  frequently  visited  for  coal  by  Alaskan 
steamers.  Vancouver  Island  is  about  three  hundred 
miles  long  by  about  fifty  wide,  and  is  the  largest  of  the 
many  islands  on  the  coast  of  the  North  Pacific,  It  is 
densely  wooded  throughout,  and  its  sides  in  many  places 
are  high  and  precipitous.  The  dense  growth  of  timber 
and  underbrush  is  interspersed  with  many  little  streams 
of  water  which,  flowing  downward,  together  with  the 
deep  indentations  extending  inland,  lend  beauty  and 
variety  to  the  scene. 

One  hundred  miles  through  the  Gulf  of  Georgia,  be- 
tween Vancouver  and  Valdez  Islands,  the  narrow  pass — 
Seymour   Narrows — is   reached.      It  has  a  tremendous 


m 


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130 


ALAS/CA 


^    ; 


current,  and  at  ebb  and  flood  tide  is  a  veritable  mael- 
strom,  with  whose  swift-flowing  waters  the  most  power- 
ful machinery  is  unable  to  cope.  At  low  tide,  a  shattered 
series  of  rocky  ledges  are  seen,  with  torrents  of  water 
rushing  between  and  over  them,  and  the  whirling  caul- 
dron is  enough  to  strike  terror  to  the  heart  of  the  most 
daring  navigator.  The  passage  is  always  made  when  the 
tide  is  nearly  full.  The  captain  of  an  Alaskan  steamer  on 
one  occasion  lost  control  of  his  vessel  here.  It  reeled  and 
staggered  as  the  mad  waters  lashed  against  its  sides  and 
sought  to  drag  it  into  the  boiling  sea.  It  swept  around 
in  the  torrent,  but  finally  drifted  into  less  turbulent 
waters  and  passed  through  without  encountering  any 
damage. 

The  United  States  steamer  Saranac  was  wrecked  here 
in  1875.  She  was  caught  in  the  rush  of  waters,  but 
succeeded  in  reaching  the  shore  of  Vancouver  Island, 
although,  after  her  ofificers  and  crew  had  safely  landed, 
she  was  drawn  into  the  whirlpool  and  sank  out  of  sight. 
The  United  States  steamer  WacJmset,  seven  years  later, 
had  an  exciting  experience  in  these  waters,  but  finally 
stemmed  the  current  and  passed  out,  after  having  a  por- 
tion of  her  keel  swept  off  by  the  fierce  current.  Many 
smaller  vessels  were  partially  or  wholly  wrecked  before 
the  dangers  of  these  Narrows  became  known. 

Johnstone  Strait  for  fifty-five  miles,  and  Broughton 
Strait  for  fifteen  miles — immediately  to  the  north — both 
pass  between  land  more  or  less  abrupt,  and  the  pictur- 
esque scenery  encountered  before  Seymour  Narrows  is 
reached  is  again  presented.  Johnstone  Strait  opens  into 
Queen  Charlotte  Sound,  which  for  fifty  miles  presents 


r/CTUA'ESQ  UE  A  LA  SKA 


>3I 


an  expanse  of  water  fifteen  miles  or  so  across,  until  it  in 
turn  meets  the  waters  of  Hecate  Strait.  The  broad  ex- 
panse of  the  ocean  is  seen  only  while  the  ship  is  speeding 
over  the  thirty-five  miles  intervening,  before  she  enters 
the  landlocked  shores  of  Fitz-Hugh  Sound.  From  here 
to  the  end  of  the  inland  channel  at  Sitka,  the  open  waters 
of  the  ocean  are  not  encountered,  with  the  exception  of 
fifteen  miles  at  Milbank  Sound,  and  again  at  Dixon  En- 
trance, where,  in  a  south  wind,  the  water  may  become 
rough  for  an  hour  or  so,  to  add,  as  it  were,  a  little  spice 
to  the  smooth  sailing  which  might  otherwise  become 
monotonous. 

Beginning  here,  the  route  is  one  continuous  chain  of 
labyrinthian  passages,  winding  hither  and  thither  through 
narrow  defiles,  with  mountains  rising  many  hundred  feet 
on  both  sides,  covered  from  base  to  peak  with  a  dense 
coat  of  firs,  whose  outline  is  mirrored  in  the  water  below. 
"  The  Mystic  Maze  "  would  be  an  appropriate  name  to 
apply  to  this  enchanted  route.  Ofttimes  the  prow  of 
the  ship  is  headed  for  what  appears  to  be  a  mountainous 
barricade,  but  a  sudden  turn  reveals  a  continuation  of  the 
pathway,  and  an  outlet  to  endless  charming  nooks  and 
glassy  waters. 

The  first  glimpse  of  Alaska  after  emerging  from  Gren- 
ville  Channel  into  the  waters  of  Chatham  Sound,  which 
separates  British  from  American  territory,  is  Tongas 
Island,  the  home  of  a  tribe  of  natives  scarcely  numbering 
threescore,  the  remnant  of  a  once  numerous  tribe.  They 
occupy  the  site  of  old  Fort  Tongas  which,  during  the 
first  eight  years  after  the  acquisition  of  Alaska,  was  the 
headquarters  of  a  company  of  United  States  troops.     No 


I       1 


,(,.- 


!     ! 


I  >      S- 


!:t 


>32 


ALASKA 


opportunity  is  afforded  to  examine  the  country  in  this 
vicinity  save  from  the  deck  of  the  vessel.  Thirty-five 
miles  farther  on  Mary  Island  is  sighted.  The  steamer 
blows  a  shrill  whistle,  the  speed  of  the  engine  is  slackened, 
and  immediately  the  Stars  and  Stripes  are  hoisted  upon 
the  staff  of  the  Custom  House.  As  soon  as  the  anchor 
is  lowered,  the  captain  goes  ashore  to  execute  such  papers 
as  are  necessary  to  comply  with  the  laws  and  enable  the 
vessel  to  proceed  north\/ard.  At  this  station  a  deputy 
collector  is  taken  aboard,  who  makes  the  trip  to  Sitka 
and  return,  and  whose  business  it  is  to  see  that  no  whiskey 
or  other  contraband  goods  are  landed  or  taken  on  board 
the  ship.  An  hour  is  spent  here,  when  the  machinery  is 
set  in  motion  and  the  vessel  again  swings  on  its  course 
towards  New  Mr  .iakahtla.  This  point  is  off  the  main 
route  some  fifteen  miles,  so  it  is  only  when  there  are 
goods  to  be  discharged  that  the  vessel  pauses  at  one  of 
the  most  interesting  points  on  the  whole  journey.  An 
approach  to  New  Metlakahtla  shows,  quietly  nestling  on 
the  side  of  a  gentle  slope  of  ground,  stretching  back  from 
a  long  pebbly  beach,  two  or  three  hundred  houses,  many 
of  them  neatly  painted,  with  a  church  edifice,  large  school 
building,  store,  saw-mill,  and  salmon-canning  establish- 
ment. There  is  nothing  about  the  appearance  of  the 
place,  until  the  faces  of  the  residents  are  seen,  to  suggest 
that  it  is  the  home  of  the  Chim-sy-an  tribe  of  natives, 
whom  Mr.  Duncan  brought  from  Old  Metlakahtla  a  few 
years  ago.  Every  branch  of  business  pursued  by  whites, 
in  towns  of  similar  size,  is  here  carried  on,  and  the  eight 
hundred  and  fifty  or  more  people  are  thrifty  and  con- 
tented.    In  the  chapter  on  the  missionaries  of  Alaska,  a 


nt 
d( 


da 


5f 


PICTURESQUE  ALASKA 


133 


more  extended  reference  is  made  to  Mr.  Duncan  and  the 
people  whom  he  has  brought  from  the  degradation  of 
savagery  to  a  high  state  of  civilisation. 

Retracing  its  course  to  Tongas  Narrows,  the  steamer 
runs  alongside  of  the  wharf  at  Ketchikan.  Ten  years 
ago  this  was  the  site  of  a  salmon  cannery  which  was 
afterwards  destroyed  by  five.  It  is  now  a  trading-post, 
and  salmon  are  salted  in  large  numbers.  Should  it  be 
the  season  for  the  salmon  to  run,  the  little  stream  which 
flows  down  through  the  hills  to  the  east  of  the  village 
will  be  literally  filled  with  the  humpback  variety.  The 
first  glimpse  of  the  Alaskan  Indian  in  his  native  state  is 
obtained  here. 

A  stop  of  an  hour,  and  the  steamer  is  ready  to  resume 
its  course  towards  Loring.  The  twenty-five-mile  distance 
is  covered  in  about  two  hours,  and  the  seat  of  what  was, 
until  the  past  five  years,  one  of  the  most  prolific  red  sal- 
mon streams  in  all  Alaska  is  found  picturesquely  located 
on  the  western  slope  of  a  high  mountain.  For  a  number 
of  years,  from  fifteen  to  twenty  thousand  cases  of  red 
salmon  were  packed  each  year  by  this  establishment, 
but  a  system  of  trapping  prevailed  by  which  the  fish  were 
prevented  from  ascending  to  the  lake  above,  and  this 
has  very  nearly  exhausted  the  species.  The  pack  is  now 
mostly  of  the  humpback  variety.  Just  back  of  the  can- 
nery, the  sparkling  waters  of  Naha  Falls  come  thundering 
down  fifty  feet  or  more,  and  are  considered  the  most 
beautiful  of  the  many  encountered  along  ihe  tourist 
route. 

At  nine  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  twenty-ninth 
day   of   August,    1889,    the  side-wheel    steamer  Ancon, 


I.!.  ■■. 


\   W 


|.  % 


134 


ALASKA 


ll'i 


which  had  for  several  years  been  engaged  in  carrying 
tourists  to  Alaska,  in  attempting  to  swing  around,  settled 
upon  a  reef  within  a  few  yards  of  the  shore  and,  when 
the  tide  receded,  broke  in  two  and  became  a  total  wreck. 
The  passengers  were  taken  on  their  journey  a  few  days 
afterward  by  another  steamer.  The  accident  was  the 
means  of  affording  them  several  days  of  amusement, 
which  they  enjoyed  to  the  fullest  extent. 

From  Loring  to  Fort  Wrangel  about  ninety  miles  of 
charming  scenery  is  passed,  but  no  stop  is  made  in  that 
interval.  Wrangel  is  the  most  picturesque  as  well  as 
largest  settlement  yet  visited.  It  has  reached  the  phase 
in  history  when  it  lives  onlj'  in  the  glory  of  "  by-gone 
days. ' '  For  a  number  of  years  following  the  purchase  of 
Alaska,  it  was  the  winter  rendezvous  of  miners,  who  were 
taking  out  thousands  and  hundreds  of  thousands  of  dol- 
lars in  placer  gold,  at  Cassiar  and  other  British  north-west- 
territory  mining  camps,  but  these  claims  becoming  ex- 
hausted, the  life  and  activity  of  Wrangel  also  disappeared, 
until  the  summer  of  1898  gave  it  a  temporary  boom. 
For  a  time  it  was  thought  that  a  practicable  route  to  tlie 
gold  fields  of  the  interior  would  be  fc'und  via  the  Stikecii 
Rivei,  and  this  village,  which  had  so  long  remained  dor- 
mant, assumed  something  of  the  life  and  activity  of  the 
old  Cassiar  excitement ;  the  hopes  of  the  old  settlers  were 
quickly  dispelled,  however,  as  the  obstacles  of  river  navi- 
gation and  the  long  overland  journey  became  known  to 
the  thousands,  who  preferred  the  perils  and  hardships  of 
the  more  popular  routes  via  Dyea  and  Skaguay. 

To-day,  a  hundred  or  so  whites  and  two  or  three  hun- 
dred natives  occupy,  with  few  exceptions,  the  same  li)g 


PICTURESQUE  ALASKA 


135 


f^r,!/ 


buildings  that  were  erected  during  the  days  when  gold 
was  almost  as  plentiful  as  water.  Considerable  business, 
however,  is  done  here  to-day.  There  are  several  stores 
whose  customers  are  principally  natives,  with  whom 
goods  are  exchanged  for  furs;  a  large  sawmill;  a  bonded 
warehouse,  through  which  British  goods  must  pass  before 
being  shipped  into  the  Territory,  up  the  Stikeen  River, 
four  miles  to  the  north-east;  a  Presbyterian  church,  and 
the  offices  of  the  United  States  Deputy  Collector  and 
Commissioner.  Wrangel  pursues  the  even  tenor  of  its 
way,  apparently  satisfied  with  the  present,  and  with 
recollections  of  its  more  varied  past.  This  town  was 
named  for  Barcn  Wrangel,  who,  in  183 1,  was  the  Russian 
governor.  Here  he  constructed  a  fort,  and  his  troops 
defeated  a  party  in  league  with  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany, who  had  encroached  upon  his  territory  to  traffic 
with  the  natives.  Soon  after  our  acquisition  of  Alaska 
the  fort  was  garrisoned  by  two  companies  of  United 
States  troops.  The  arrangement  of  the  plat,  with  bar- 
racks and  officers'  quarters  standing  on  either  side  of  the 
square,  gives  evidence  to-day  of  the  time  it  was  occupied 
by  these  representatives  of  the  American  army.  Troops 
were  withdrawm  in  1870,  but  the  garrison  was  again  oc- 
cupied by  soldiers  from  1875  to  1877,  when  all  the  troops 
were  permanently  withdrawn  from  Alaska. 

It  is  usual  for  steamers  going  north  to  remain  at 
Wrangel  long  enough  to  reach  the  entrance  to  Wrangel 
Narrows,  twenty-five  miles  north,  at  high  tide  This  is, 
indeed,  one  of  the  most  interesting  portions  of  the  whole 
trip.  The  passage  through  the  Narrows  covers  a  distance 
of  twenty-five  miles.     At  half  tide,  a  hundred-ton  vessel 


I  [. 


' :  ,' 


li'i  I 


136 


ALASKA 


drawing  six  feet  of  water  could  not  make  the  passage  on  ac- 
count of  ledges  of  rocks  and  boulders  stretched  across  the 
whole  passage.  "Hard  aport!  "  "Starboard!  "  "Steady!" 
are  constantly  heard  from  the  captain  as  the  ocean  steamer 
is  turned  close  around  the  buoys  that  locate  the  shallow 
water  and  hidden  reefs.  While  danger  need  not  be  ap- 
prehended in  case  of  accident  in  this  passage,  for  the 
waters  do  not  surge  through  with  the  force  that  causes 
Seymour  Narrows  to  be  dreaded,  yet  the  alertness  of  the 
ofificers,  and  the  caution  exercised  in  piloting  the  steamer, 
arrest  the  attention  of  the  passengers,  and  give  rise  to 
expressions  of  admiration  for  the  skill  of  the  mariners 
who  have  charge  of  the  craft.  Upon  emerging  from  the 
Narrows  a  glimpse  of  the  first  glacier  of  any  note  is  had. 
It  bears  the  name  of  Patterson,  and  looms  six  thousand 
feet  upward,  while  its  serpentine  form  is  seen  winding 
over  the  mountain,  and  is  finally  eclipsed  by  the  towering 
magnificence  of  the  Devil's  Thumb,  pointing  heavenward 
at  an  altitude  of  nine  thousand  feet.  This,  too,  is  lost  to 
view,  as  the  vessel  bears  westward  to  Cape  Fanshaw, 
where  the  course  is  straight  away  for  the  metropolis  of 
Alaska,  seventy  miles  distant  at  the  head  of  Gastineau 
Channel. 

On  the  right,  twelve  miles  before  reaching  Juneau, 
Taku  Inlet  opens  into  the  channel.  It  is  one  of  the 
favourite  points  of  interest  for  tourists,  and  the  glaciers 
winding  down  through  the  mountains  are  visible  for  a 
long  distance  and  pour  into  the  inlet  with  a  front  of  a 
mile  or  more. 

The  metropolis  of  Alaska,  Juneau,  is  located  at  the 
base  of  a  mountain  that  rises  almost  perpendicularly  for 


■"^- 


PICTURESQUE  ALASKA 


m 


''  ' ; 


Teon  ac- 
ross the 
teady !" 
steamer 
shallow 
)t  be  ap- 
for  the 
it  causes 
ss  of  the 
steamer, 
s  rise  to 
mariners 
from  the 
:e  is  had. 
thousand 


winding 


towering 
avenward 

is  lost  to 
Fanshaw. 
ropolis  of 
jastineau 

;  Juneau, 
ne  of  the 
le  glaciers 
ible  for  a 
front  of  ;i 

;ed  at  the 
cularly  for 


nearly  three  thousand  feet,  forming  a  most  picturesque 
background  to  this  little  city.  Juneau  is  an  ideal  mining 
camp.  Every  building  in  the  town,  and  every  inhabit- 
ant, bears  the  aspect  of  activity  and  prosperity  peculiar 
to  live  mining  camps.  It  has  but  few  streets,  and  they 
are  crooked  and  narrow. 

With  but  few  exceptions,  the  inhabitants  have  not 
found  time  to  clear  their  lots  of  the  stumps  or  gnarled 
roots  that  litter,  as  well  as  make  a  rustic  ornament  for 
every  dooryard.  But  there  are  a  number  of  handsome 
residences  and  neat  business  houses;  and  a  system  of 
water-works  that  draws  its  supply  from  the  purest  of 
mountain  streams,  and  an  electric-light  plant  which  for 
four  months  of  the  year  gives  way  to  the  brilliant  light 
of  the  midnight  sun,  taking  its  turn  again  for  four  months 
in  the  winter,  excepting  only  a  few  hours  at  mid-day. 

All  roads  lead  to  Rome,  it  is  said,  and  all  routes  to  this 
portion  of  Alaska  lead  to  Juneau.  Many  Yukon  miners 
come  here  to  outfit  for  their  long  and  hazardous  trip  into 
the  interior;  all  travellers  who  visit  South-east  Alaska, 
whether  for  business  or  pleasure,  feel  that  it  is  necessary 
to  visit  Junr:iu,  and  even  the  United  States  Court,  if  in 
session  at  Sitka,  comes  here  for  three-fourths  of  its  jurors, 
without  whom  it  could  not  transact  business.  Juneau  is 
rightly  called  the  metropolis.  Whether  she  will  retain 
this  prestige,  remains  to  be  seen.  If  so,  one  of  two 
things  must  occur.  She  must  plane  down  the  sides  of 
her  mountains  or  erect  sky-scraping  buildings  with  elevat- 
ors to  accommodate  her  populace,  for  nearly  every  foot 
of  available  ground  is  already  occupied. 

The  population  of  Juneau  numbers  about  three  thou- 


i! 


H 


I  ^1 


138 


ALASKA 


sand  souls;  and  the  enterprise  of  the  people  and  volume 
of  business  done  are  shown  by  the  support  given  to  the 
two  newspapers  here  published.  The  Mining  Record, 
the  oldest  paper  published  here,  is  devoted  especially  to 
the  mining  interests  of  the  country.  It  is  a  metropoli- 
tan-appearing journal  in  general  make-up  and  contents, 
and  is  a  credit  to  the  city  and  its  enterprising  proprietor. 
The  Miner,  also  an  excellent  publication,  is  more  local 
in  its  character,  and  helps  to  make  a  keen  rivalry  be- 
tween the  papers  which  vie  with  each  other  in  the  pub- 
lication of  reliable  information  concerning  this  great 
Territory. 

As  the  steamer  turns  on  its  course  en  route  to  Sitka,  it 
retraces  its  way  for  twelve  miles,  and  on  the  right,  two 
miles  from  Juneau,  passes  the  works  which  constitute  the 
great  Treadwell  mine.  Dense  columns  o^  smoke  are  seen 
issuing  from  the  chlorination  works  which  are  here  burn- 
ing that  part  of  the  ore  which  the  batteries  have  not  been 
able  to  separate  from  the  gold.  Its  poisonous  vapours 
that  the  humid  atmosphere  has  crowded  down  the  moun- 
tain sides  have  bleached  the  timber  growing  there  almost 
as  white  as  the  ragged  and  jagged  ledges  laid  bare  by  the 
incessant  explosions  of  dynamite  that  occur  in  this  mine 
day  and  night  from  one  year's  end  to  another. 

At  the  end  of  Douglas  Island  the  ship's  prow  is  turned 
northward  towards  Lynn  Canal;  but  which  arm  it  as- 
cends, whether  Chilkoot  or  Chilkat  Inlet,  depends  upon 
the  nature  of  the  business  calling  the  vessel  thither.  If 
to  Chi'i'.;oot,  a  view  is  afforded  of  the  new  and  thriving 
town  of  Skaguay,  and  a  little  farther  on,  its  rival,  Dyea, 
slumbers   at  the  base  of  the    mountains  over  which  so 


L 


1  volume 
;n  to  the 
r  Record, 
ecially  to 
letropoli- 
contents, 
ropiictor. 
lore  local 
ivalry  bc- 
,  the  pub- 
this   great 

;o  Sitka,  it 
right,  two 
istitute  the 
,ke  are  seen 
here  burn- 
/e  not  been 
lus  vapours 
I  the  moun- 
here  almost 
bare  by  the 
in  this  mine 
r. 

ow  is  turned 
ti  arm  it  as- 
epends  upon 
.  thither.  H 
and  thrivin<^ 
i  rival.  Dyea. 
ver  which  so 


PICTURESQ  I.  •/■:  A  I.A  SK'A 


139 


many  thousands  of  eager  miners  encountered  hardships 
and  privations  during  the  past  year,  in  their  eager  quest 
for  gold  in  the  valley  of  the  Yukon. 

The  neat  and  attractive  buildings  passed  on  the  left- 
hand  side  journeying  towards  Skaguay,  are  those  belong- 
ing to  the  Presbyterian  ^Mission,  known  as  Haynes. 

If  the  steamer  has  taken  the  Chilkat  Inlet,  at  the  head 
of  navigation,  to  the  right  hand  is  the  town  of  Chilkat, 
whose  location  is  marked  by  a  cannery,  store,  and  a  few 
other  buildings.  Farther  to  the  left  is  the  route  located 
by  Mr.  Jack  Dalton,  who  discovered  a  way  into  the 
interior  of  Alaska,  whence  the  Yukon  River  may  be 
reached  over  a  country  having  a  gradual  ascent  and  de- 
scent, with  no  high  mountains  to  interfere,  thus  forming 
what  is  thought  to  be  a  natural  route  for  the  construction 
of  a  railroad  into  the  interior. 

As  the  ship  turns  about  to  resume  her  course,  Davidson 
Glacier  appears  on  the  right.  This  is  the  first  good  view 
of  a  glacier  yet  had,  and  it  looks  as  if  a  mighty  river, 
winding  down  from  the  mountain,  had  suddenly  con- 
gealed while  pouring  its  torrents  into  the  sea  below. 
Davidson  Glacier  has  its  head  a  few  miles  to  the  west, 
and  is  a  spur  of  a  series  of  glaciers  that  form  the  frigid 
bulwarks  of  ice  in  Glacier  Bay,  whose  fronts  rise  perpen- 
dicularly from  the  water.  The  Davidson,  however, 
slopes  gradually  down,  leaving  a  moraine  covered  with 
low  willow  and  alder  trees. 

A  distance  of  sixty  miles  to  the  south  is  made  before 
the  ship's  course  is  changed  into  Icy  Strait,  and  is  now 
among  floating  ice,  which  may  be  encountered  in  such 
quantities  as  to  impede  the  progress  of  the  ship  through 


^!  i  !• 


iir 


140 


ALASA'A 


the  entrance  into  the  bay.  The  prows  of  all  the  vessels 
are  protected  with  heavy  timbers,  and  one  experiences 
the  shock  caused  by  the  crashing  of  the  vessel  into  the 
bergs  and  floating  ice  as  it  pursues  its  course.  When 
within  the  bay,  it  is  in  a  sea  of  floating  ice  anc  the  ship 
dodges  its  way  through  the  heavy  "  pack  "  past  Wil- 
loughby  Island,  until  it  comes  to  anchor  within  two  miles 
of  the  front  of  the  celebrated  Miiir  Glacier.  The  island 
just  referred  to  is  named  after  "  Prof,"  Willoughby,  one 
of  the  early  pioneers  of  California.  As  a  boy  he  was  in 
the  vanguard  of  the  "  forty-niners  "  ;  picked  up  nuggets 
as  large  as  walnuts  at  Suter's  Mill  with  Marshall;  moved 
along  into  Fraser  River,  Cariboo,  and  Cassiar  mining 
camps;  and  was  among  the  early  placer  miners  in  the 
camps  of  South-east  Alaska.  He  piloted  the  first  vessel 
into  Glacier  Bay,  and  was  there  when  Professor  Muir 
made  his  first  investigation  of  the  wonderful  river  of  ice 
that  bears  his  name. 

Willoughby  i^;  a  typical  frontiersman.  lie  is  said  to 
have  made  more  extensive  explorations  in  South-east 
Alaska  than  any  other  man,  and  to  have  found  more 
good  mineral  deposits  than  he  knows  what  to  do  with. 
His  claims  on  Admiralty  Island  are  among  the  most 
prominent  quartz  locations  in  the  Territory,  and  the  sale 
of  this  property  will  probably  bring  him  more  money 
than  he  will  be  able  to  spend. 

The  author's  first  visit  to  Alaska  was  in  the  spring  of 
1889,  and  was  in  the  interest  of  newspapers.  He  was 
looking  for  just  such  a  person  as  Willoughby  to  furnish 
him  information  about  the  country.  This  acquaintance 
supplied  him  with  means  for  building  up  a  series  of  let- 


VJBSSP 


PICTURESQUE  ALASKA 


141 


ters  upon  a  subject  that  made  them  the  most  profitable 
newspaper  articles  he  ever  wrote,  and  which  appeared  in 
many  of  the  leading  papers  of  the  country.  One  of 
these  stories,  entitled  "  The  Silent  City,"  helped  to  make 
Glacier  Bay  more  noted,  brought  thousands  of  dollars  to 
the  person  who  claimed  to  have  photographed  a  "  mirage 
of  an  unknown  city,"  and  caused  a  vast  nmount  of  dis- 
cussion on  the  subject  of  mirages.  Many  persons  pro- 
nounced it  a  "  fake,"  others  a  good  joke,  while  some 
looked  upon  it  in  the  light  of  a  phenomenon  that  would 
reasonably  occur  on  account  of  the  peculiar  condition  of 
the  atmosphere  prevailing  in  this  locality. 

If  the  author  thought  the  story  a  monstrous  and  ridicu- 
lous joke,  gratitude  to  the  man  who  furnished  him  with 
the  sinews  from  which  to  weave  the  interesting  tale  would 
prevent  his  denouncing  it  as  such.  Two  years  previous 
to  his  arrival  at  Juneau,  Willoughby  had  been  exhibiting 
a  negative  of  a  picture  which  he  said  he  had  succeeded  in 
taking  of  a  city  which  appeared  above  the  face  of  the 
glacier  in  the  longest  days  of  each  year,  and  which  was 
brought  to  his  attention  by  the  natives,  who  called  it  the 
silent  city.  He  procured  a  camera,  and  in  three  success- 
ive years  made  the  journey  in  a  canoe  with  natives,  and 
each  time  was  able  to  make  an  exposure,  but  the  plate 
exposed  the  third  year  proved  upon  development  to  be 
the  only  one  that  contained  a  picture  of  the  city.  It  was 
a  weird-looking  negative  and,  contemplating  it  while 
Willoughby  told  the  story  with  the  utmost  earnestn  -- 
and  sincerity,  one  could  not  but  be  interested  and  in- 
clined to  believe  it  to  be  true.  He  said  that  the  city 
always  appeared  as  if  suspended  in  the  air,  just  in  front 


111  I 


i:'f'^-hl 


nn 


'  (. 


!     I 


I        I   ,,    I 


i     -     " 

i  ' 

, . ... 

■    ■ 

i 
■     1" 

\   i  '! 

i 

:        i 

! 

j 

1:  ■ 

i:  1 

;     ■           in': 
:        '! 

1     ■■; 

J 

I  w 


m^f\ 


ni 


ill 


1 


142 


ALASh'A 


of  the  Fairvvcather  ranj^c  of  mountains.  The  atmos- 
phere was  so  clear  that  the  peaks  many  miles  to  the 
north  were  distinctly  seen,  and  every  ridge  and  wallow 
and  curve  of  the  icy  crust  that  enveloped  them  could  not 
have  been  more  clearly  defined  had  they  been  but  a 
stone's  throw  away.  That  while  asleep  in  his  tent  one 
morning,  a  native  called  to  him  excitedly  to  "  get  up  "  ; 
and  upon  looking  to  the  north  he  saw  a  strange-looking 
object  hanging  over  the  sides  of  the  mountain,  and  fol- 
lowing the  direction  of  a  stream  or  glow  <  light  which 
seemed  to  radiate  from  the  range  square  down  upon 
the  glaciers  at  the  head  of  the  bay.  Gradually  it  became 
more  distinct,  and  soon  assumed  the  appearance  of  a  city 
of  immense  proportions,  stretching  out  into  the  distance 
until  its  farthermost  limits  were  lost  to  view.  The  style 
of  architecture  was  new  to  him.  Buildings  of  massive 
dimensions  extended  in  solid  and  unbroken  blocks  as  far 
as  the  eye  could  reach.  The  solemn  walls  of  cathedrals 
arose  almost  to  the  skies,  and  his  imagination  revelled  in 
silvery  music  that  was  wafL^d  out  through  the  openings 
of  gorgeously  painted  windows.  The  entire  limits  of  the 
(  ty  were  confined  within  a  halo  of  light,  dense,  yet  trans- 
'   irent,  pouring  its  soft  glow  upon  roof  and  wall  and  win- 

)w  in  glorious  transformation.  To  the  right  and  left  a 
i    nge   of  mountains,   covered  with   the  garb  of  winter, 

jrmed  the  background.  Again,  he  seemed  to  hear  the 
Dclls  from  the  steeples  of  a  hundred  churches  mingling 
sweet  and  happy  melody ;  yet,  within  the  whole  length 
and  breadth  of  this  boundless  city,  not  one  soul  could  be 
seen.  Not  even  a  shadow  darkened  the  light  for  an  in- 
stant.    All  was  silent  as  the  grave,  when  suddenly  the 


atmos- 
to  the 
wallow 
3uld  not 
n  but  a 
:ent  one 
et  up  "; 
-looking 
and  fol- 
lit  which 
vn  upon 
:  became 
of  a  city 
distance 
rhe  style 
massive 
:ks  as  far 
athedrals 
;velled  in 
openings 
its  of  the 
^et  trans- 
and  win- 
ind  left  a 
if  winter, 
»  hear  the 
mingling 
)le  length 
could  be 
for  an  in- 
denly  the 


>- 


z 

UJ 


UJ 

I 


!.,., 


1 ; :  . 

^1 

4     '  ' 

:■:•■,      1 

^   1 

■^-^-^ 


PICTURESQUE  ALASKA 


143 


vision  began  to  move  away.  Its  glories  and  grandeur 
lured  him  with  a  fascination  which  he  could  not  resist. 
But,  as  he  walked  forward,  it  seemed  to  recede  with  even 
pace.  Gradually,  though  he  quickened  his  steps  to  get 
within  the  silent  portals  before  it  was  too  late,  it  was 
wafted  into  space  and  finally  lost  to  view. 

In  the  summer  of  1889,  the  author  accompanied  Wil- 
loughby  to  Glacier  Bay,  and  spent  six  weeks  in  exploring 
the  glaciers  and  surrounding  country.  He  was  anxious 
to  see  the  spot  where  Willoughby  claimed  to  have  wit- 
nessed this  wonderful  sight,  although  he  feels  free  to  say 
he  did  not  live  in  very  high  expectations  of  gazing  upon 
the  silent  city.  One  day  we  ascended  the  side  of  a 
mountain  to  a  level  space  affording  a  glorious  view  of 
the  whole  bay.  Willoughby  led  the  way  to  a  pile  of 
rocks,  laid  carefully  one  upon  another  to  a  height  of  per- 
haps five  feet.  Slowly  he  commenced  to  throw  off  rock 
after  rock  until  an  opening  was  made  in  the  centre,  and, 
insetting  his  arm,  he  drew  out  what  appeared  to  be  a 
scroll  or  book  made  from  several  leaves  of  birch  bark.  It 
was  badly  mildewed,  and  upon  unrolling  it  a  pencil  fell 
to  the  ground.  The  half-dozen  pages  looked  bright, 
however,  and  contained  a  record  stating  that  the  object 
of  three  trips  made  to  this  locality,  in  as  many  different 
years,  was  to  secure  a  photograph  of  the  city. 

During  the  six  weeks  the  author  spent  with  Willough- 
by, the  relations  between  them  in  camp  and  in  their 
travels  were  such  as  to  encourage  an  exchange  of  confid- 
ences on  many  subjects,  and  although  the  subjects  of 
"  The  Silent  City  "  and  mirages  were  often  referred  to, 
Willoughby  never  by  word  or  implication  gave  him  any 


■■■  i! 


I  '  ' 


144 


ALASKA 


reason  to  think  that  his  story  was  other  than  a  true  one. 

The  city  was  finally  identified  as  Bristol,  England.  In 
order  for  it  to  have  appeared  in  the  manner  claimed,  it 
must  have  been  reflected  a  distance  of  several  thousand 
miles. 

And  now,  after  a  lapse  of  ten  years,  Alaska's  "  Silent 
City  "  has  emerged  once  more  from  the  mysterious 
shadowland  and  revealed  itself  to  five  members  of  the 
party  who  accompanied  Prince  Luigi  in  his  ascent  of  Mt. 
St.  Elias  in  July,  1897. 

One  of  the  party,  Mr.  C.  W.  Thornton  of  Seattle,  in 
his  note-book  remarked  that  "  it  required  no  effort  of  the 
imagination  to  liken  it  to  a  city,  but  was  so  distinct  and 
plain  that  it  required  instead  faith  to  believe  that  it  was 
not  in  reality  a  city." 

This  party,  however,  viewed  the  effect  from  Malaspina 
Glacier,  one  hundred  miles  to  the  west  of  Muir  Glacier, 
and  their  enthusiastic  description  lends  reality  to  our 
vision  of  "  The  Silent  City." 

The  awful  grandeur  of  Muir  Glacier  is  inexpressible, 
whether  viewed  while  walking  on  its  top  among  the  thou- 
sands of  seams  and  crevasses  that  descend  in  yawnini; 
chasms  to  interminable  depths,  or  looking  at  it  from  the 
deck  of  our  vessel.  If  viewed  while  standing  close  to 
the  front,  the  awful,  jagged  surface  is  seen  extending  two 
miles  across,  rising  in  pinnacles  and  towers  two  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  high.  Is  it  any  wonder  that,  when  gazint; 
at  this  spectacle,  one  is  lost  in  awe  as  he  sees  a  solid  body 
of  ice  winding  for  many  miles  through  mountain  gorges, 
breaking  off  in  irregular  blocks,  many  of  them  a  hundritl 
feet  square,  and  tumbling  into  the  water  below  ?     Is  it 


true  one. 
and.  In 
aimed,  it 
thousand 

5"  Silent 
lysterious 
:rs  of  the 
:nt  of  Mt. 

Seattle,  in 
[ort  of  the 
istinct  and 
:hat  it  was 

Malaspina 
lir  Glacier, 
ity  to  our 

xpressible, 
the  thou- 

n  yawnlni^ 

it  from  the 
ii  close  to 

ending  two 
o  hundred 

dien  gazin;j; 
solid  body 
ain  gorges. 

ti  a  hundred 
low  ?     Is  it 


1 

1 

1 

HH 

R^T-  ■ii^^^^^^^^l^^^H 

f i  1 

'•'1 

il 

H^    B^^^^^^^I^^^H 

1 

l^^l^l 

I  , 


IE  j: 

o  ^ 

< 

O  ^ 

^  o 

or  o 

§3 


O    I 
O   o 


ii 


'   I 


■  It? 


PICTURESQUE  ALASKA 


145 


any  wonder  that  the  crash  and  thundering  echo  can  be 
heard  for  miles  ?  Is  it  any  wonder  that  the  bottom  of 
this  grand  inland  sea  is  a  hundred  fathoms  or  more  deep, 
when  such  huge  sections  of  ice,  falling  from  dizzy  heights, 
send  the  spray  nearly  to  the  top  of  the  glacier  as  they  go 
ploughing  onward  towards  the  sea  ? 

The  author  has  seen  a  single  block  of  ice  measuring  at 
least  four  hundred  feet  square,  with  forty  feet  extending 
above  the  water,  silently  moving  down  the  bay.  Fresh- 
water ice  is  said  to  float  with  seven-eighths  below  the 
surface,  so  in  this  instance  the  berg  must  have  been  three 
hundred  and  twenty  feet  thick. 

Among  glaciers,  nature  is  seen  in  its  grandest,  most 
awful,  and  sullen  mood.  The  continual  caving  leaves  the 
glaciers  with  lacerated  fronts  that  assume  Ihe  shape  of 
obelisks,  pinnacles,  and  turreted  roofs  of  castles,  set  with 
a  background  of  blue;  when  touched  with  the  rays  of  the 
sun,  they  send  back  the  hues  of  the  topaz,  diamond,  and 
sapphire  in  sparkling  scintillations. 

How  many  years  shall  elapse  before  the  last  of  the 
glaciers  disappears  from  the  bay  can  hardly  be  calculated, 
but  they  are  slowly  receding  and  will,  before  many  years, 
become  a  wonder  of  the  past.  There  are  ten  other  living 
glaciers  as  large  as  the  IMuir  in  the  bay,  besides  a  number 
of  smaller  ones,  and  at  the  extreme  northern  end  is  one 
nearly  as  large  again  as  the  Muir.  On  the  coast  250 
miles  west  from  Sitka,  the  great  Alalaspina  Glacier  pre- 
sents a  front  of  over  twenty-five  miles  to  the  sea.  A  few 
miles  farther  west  they  almost  entirely  disappear,  and  are 
only  found  in  a  few  localities  just  back  from  the  coast. 

The  day  spent  in  Glacier  Bay  ends  only  too  quickly, 


I   r 


■■;  1 


I       l! 


\\A.\ 


( 

1 

\ 

■ 

'  ^ 


146 


ALASKA 


i       I 


ff:;;; 


but  the  ship  must  travel  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
farther  before  reaching  the  terminus  of  the  route,  at 
Sitka.  Nearly  one  hundred  miles  of  this  course  is  due 
south,  then  the  ship  turns  to  feel  its  way  for  thirty  miles 
in  Peril  Strait.  This  stretch  of  water  is,  as  the  name  im- 
plies, a  difTicult  and  dangerous  passage,  and  is  attempted 
only  in  pleasant  weather.  The  water  surges  and  rushes 
at  the  rate  of  six  or  eight  knots  an  hour,  and  like  Sey- 
mour Narrows,  is  run  only  at  high  slack,  or  between  that 
and  high  water.  Its  path  is  strewn  .ith  rocks  and  reefs, 
and  its  swiftest  water  points  are  designated  as  Upper  and 
Lower  Rapids.  At  least  two  officers  of  the  ship  are  always 
on  the  bridge,  for  here,  as  everywhere  throughout  the 
long  journey  through  the  inland  waters,  their  keen  vigil- 
ance is  never  for  a  moment  relaxed. 

Twenty  miles  more  and  tiie  booming  of  the  cannon 
from  the  deck  of  the  steamer  warns  the  passengers  that 
another  port  is  reached.  Its  sullen  roar  echoes  among 
the  hills  and  announces  to  the  inhabitants  that  another 
"  steamer  day  "  is  at  hand.  Another  messenger  from 
civilisation  has  knocked  at  their  doors,  bringing  anxiously 
looked-for  tidings  from  home  and  friends  to  those  who, 
from  choice  or  circumstance,  have  found  an  abiding-place 
upon  our  most  remote  frontier. 

Sitka  became  the  capital  of  Russian  America  under  the 
administration  of  Alexander  Baranoff,  who  served  as 
Governor  of  the  Russian  colonies  from  July  27,  1791, 
until  January  11,  1818,  his  predecessor,  the  first  Governor, 
having  served  from  August  3,  1784,  until  July  27,  1791. 
The  seat  of  Government  at  that  time  was  at  Kadiak, 
Kadiak  Island,  five  hundred  miles  west  of  Sitka. 


keen  vigil- 


he  cannon 


oes  amont 


i  !■; 


l:,l      fj 


CREVASSE  ON  TOP  OF  MUIR  GLACIER. 
FROM  A  PHOTOQRAPH  BV  LA  ROCHE,  SEATTLE,  WASH. 


I 


l^i 


J, 
{ 

I 


T-  [| 


PICTURESQUE  ALASKA 


^47 


The  especial  point  upon  which  the  interest  of  the  tour- 
ist centred  in  Sitka  was  Baranoff  Castle,  built  by  the 
Governor  in  1813.  It  was  situated  on  the  top  of  a  hill 
and  commanded  a  view  of  the  broad  expanse  of  the  ocean 
and  of  the  beautiful  harbour,  which  is  studded  with  many 
small  islands  covered  with  the  freshest  of  evergreen  trees 
and  a  profusion  of  the  loveliest  and  brightest  verdure. 
The  channels  between  these  islands  admit  of  the  passage 
of  the  largest  ocean  steamers,  and  on  a  sunshiny  day  the 
view  is  most  charming. 

The  castle,  an  imposing  structure,  built  o^  logs  of  huge 
dimensions,  was  divided  into  capacious  rooms.  On  one 
side  was  a  banquet  hall  running  the  whole  length  of  the 
building,  and  here,  during  the  occupancy  of  the  Russians, 
many  wild  scenes  of  revelry  were  enacted.  In  order  to 
preserve  this  structure  from  decay,  our  Government  ex- 
pended $11,000  five  years  ago,  but  just  after  the  work 
was  completed  it  took  fire  through  some  mysterious  cause 
and  was  burned  to  the  ground. 

Many  stories  are  told,  some  of  them  replete  with  wild 
romance  and  crime,  of  early  days  when  Russian  barons 
and  beautiful  princesses  passed  days  and  nights  within 
the  castle  in  joyous  living.  It  is  said  that  Olga  Arbuzoff, 
a  niece  of  Governor  Mooraveff,  committed  suicide  by 
thrusting  a  dagger  into  her  heart  on  the  fifth  day  of 
March,  1826,  the  very  day  of  her  marriage  to  Count 
Nicholas  Vassileff.  The  count  was  old,  ugly,  and  of 
coarse  morals,  and  the  lovely  princess  very  naturally 
hated  him.  Her  uncle,  however,  compelled  her  to  marry 
him,  though  she  insisted  that  she  would  take  her  life  if 
he  persisted  in    his   demands.     The    princess  was  very 


;i-VM 


!'  1:' 


1  i  ■>:' 


^  m 


^  I 


148 


ALASA'A 


much  in  love  with  a  midshipman  named  Demetrius 
Davidoff,  who  was  young,  handsome,  and  an  accom- 
plished gentleman,  and  whom  the  governor,  when  he 
found  they  were  in  love  with  each  other,  sent  away  on  a 
six  months'  cruise.  In  the  meantime  the  nuptials  be- 
tween the  princess  and  the  count  were  hurried  to  a  con- 
summation. The  very  night  of  the  wedding  the  young 
lover  returned  and  went  immediately  to  the  castle.     As 


BARANOFF   CASTLE. 


soon  as  the  princess  saw  him  she  uttered  a  cry,  and  rush- 
ing into  his  arms,  snatched  his  dagger  from  its  sheath  and 
plunging  it  into  her  breast,  fell  to  the  floor  dead.  The 
horror-stricken  youth  immediately  drove  it  into  his  own 
heart  and  fell  dead  by  the  side  of  his  sweetheart.  The 
following  day  they  were  both  buried  in  the  same  grave. 
From  one  of  the  windows  in  the  banquet  hall  of  the 
castle,  their  last  resting-place  was  pointed  out,  marked  by 
a  simple  Greek  cross  standing  at  the  head  of  the  mound. 


cmetrius 
accom- 
^vhcn  he 
way  on  a 
(tials  bc- 
to  a  con- 
he  young 
.stle.     As 


',  and  rush- 
sheath  and 
dead.     The 
ito  his  own 
leart.     The 
same  grave, 
hall  of  thr 
,  marked  by 
the  mound. 


I     I 


I  ! 


CO 


ii 


■ 


( 


rrcTrh'ESQUE  ai.aska 


149 


The  wliitc  population  of  Sitka  does  not  cxccL'i  five 
hundrecl,  includinj^  tlie  actual  residents,  territorial  otifi- 
cials,  and  members  of  the  naval  force  here  stationed. 
The  natives  number  about  nine  hundred  and  occupy  a 
portion  of  the  town  known  as  the  "  ranche." 

The  Greek  church,  with  its  dome  painted  blue  and 
cliime  of  bells,  stands  at  the  head  of  the  street.  It  is  a 
striking  and  rather  imposing  structure,  but  its  most  in- 
teresting feature  is  found  inside.  The  altar  decorations 
and  the  doors  separating  the  inner  sanctuary  from  the 
body  of  the  church  are  truly  gorgeous.  The  paintings  of 
the  Madonna  and  other  biblical  figures  are  superbly  set 
in  silver  and  gold.  Many  of  the  natives  are  members  of 
this  church,  and  the  ceremonies  are  of  an  interesting  and 
unusual  character,  the  congregation  standing  and  kneeling 
alternately  during  the  service. 

About  a  half  mile  south,  the  Sitka  industrial  school  is 
located.  It  is  an  institution  where  native  children  are 
taken  in  youth  and  taught  various  trades.  It  is  sup- 
ported by  the  Presbyterian  Missionary  Society,  the  gen- 
eral government  assisting  in  the  expense  of  maintaming  it. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  places  to  the  tourist  at  the 
Alaskan  capital  is  the  Museum,  near  the  industrial  school, 
containing  one  of  the  largest  collection^  of  Alaskan  curios 
in  the  United  States. 

The  Alaskan  is  the  oldest  paper  in  the  Territory,  and 
being  published  at  the  capital  is  much  sought  after  by 
people  abroad,  for  information  regarding  the  progress  of 
the  Territory. 

Looking  across  the  bay  at  Sitka  to  the  north,  Mt. 
Edgecombe,  an  extinct  volcano,  is  plainly  seen  with  the 


I     I 


'    ,i' 


!   I 


'  «J 


i\\ 


!      >\ 


;ii 


150 


ALASKA 


mouth  of  the  crater  clearly  defined  at  the  summit.  An 
excursion  to  the  mountain  and  into  the  crater,  five  hun- 
dred feet  deep,  forms  a  very  interesting  trip,  but  can 
hardly  be  made  during  the  one  day's  wait  of  the  steamer. 
The  ascent  of  Mt.  Verstovoi,  which  forms  a  beautiful 
background  to  this  picturesque  town,  can  be  accomplished 
in  two  or  three  hours,  and  the  view^  obtained  from  the 
summit  well  repays  one  for  the  effort. 

From  the  summit  of  Mt.  Verstovoi,  the  eye  follows  the 
stretch  of  the  great  unknown  country  far  to  the  westward. 
The  tourist  has  never  visited  it,  and  as  the  steamer  floats 
out  from  the  peaceful  Sitka  harbour  "  homeward  bound," 
the  "  far  off  unknown  "  is  seen  to  fade  away  in  solemn 
beauty. 

Farther  to  the  west,  the  Malaspina  Glacier  appears 
on  the  Pacific,  spanning  the  coast  with  an  icy  bulwark  at 
the  base  of  Mt.  St.  Elias.  This  hoary  peak  rears  its 
crown  of  snow  18,000  feet  towards  the  sky,  a  regal  senti- 
nel, guarding  the  rugged  coast  from  the  rushing  waters 
of  the  mighty  Pacific;  and  still  beyond,  one  is  ushered 
into  the  presence  of  the  burning  craters  of  the  Aleutian 
Archipelago;  nor  even  here  do  the  glories  end,  for  they 
extend  to  the  very  threshold  of  the  bleak,  unknown 
Arctic  waste ;  there  the  mysteries  of  land  give  place  to 
the  ever-changing  tints  and  luics  of  most  gorgeous  twi- 
light, fringed  by  the  scintillating  rays  of  nature's  grandest 
panorama,  the  northern  aurora. 

By  and  by  this  region  will  be  opened  up  to  the  pleasure 
seeker,  when  it  will  afford  a  fitting  climax  to  a  tour  of  the 
grandest  scenic  route  in  the  world,  that  which  threads 
the  mystic  mazes  between  Puget  Sound  and  Sitka. 


■■IMi" 


^ 


ROUTES   TO   THE    INTERIOR 


'.\ 


CHAPTER  XII 


HOW  to  reach  the  gold-fields  of  the  Yukon  and  its 
numerous  tributaries  is  a  question  of  great  im- 
portance. 

The  most  natural  rendezvous  on  the  Pacific  coast  for 
all  persons  embarking  to  Alaska,  is  Seattle,  State  of 
Washington. 

The  all-water  route  is  direct  from  Seattle  to  St. 
Michaels,  eighty-five  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Yukon,  via  ocean  steamers,  and  from  St.  Michaels  up 
the  river  bj'  light-draft  vessels  which  operate  there. 
From  Seatt'c  also,  there  is  constant  water  communication 
by  the  steamers  of  the  numerous  transportation  com- 
panies with  the  already  celebrated  trails  leading  by  the 
overland  routes  through  Chilkoot  and  White  Passes — 
(the  former  known  as  the  Dyea,  the  latter  as  the  Skaguay 
trail) — on,  up,  and  over  to  the  Klondike  and  the  many 
other  tributaries  of  the  Yukon. 


t  -      ^- 


I    ', 


Dj'va  or  CJtilkcct  Pass  Route 

The  Dyea  trail  is  preferable  to  all  others  for  the  inward 
journey.     The  distance  from  salt  water  to  the  lakes  or 

15' 


•     ;        ■(!• 


m 


J  J 


152 


A  LAS  A' A 


headwaters  of  the  Yukon  River  over  this  trail  is  about 
twenty-seven  miles. 

The  most  favourable  time  for  going  into  the  interior  is 
before  the  snow  melts  from  the  mountains,  which  does 
not  occur  until  about  the  middle  of  April.  The  journey 
over  what  is  known  as  the  Summit  is  better  accomplished 
by  hauling  supplies  on  sleds.  After  the  Summit  is 
passed,  if  the  journey  is  continued  before  the  ve  '>.rM^-.. 
up,  long  distances  may  often  be  made  by  meau  .  of  i.j 
raised  on  improvised  masts  on  the  sleds. 

After  the  ice  has  disappeared,  canoes  may  be  used  for 
the  first  six  miles  after  leaving  Dyea.  From  this  point 
the  route  lies  through  wliat  is  known  as  the  Canyon. 
Quite  a  gradual  ascent  is  made  until  Sheep  Camp,  which 
has  become  a  favourite  rendezvous  for  miners,  is  reached. 
Here  a  rest  is  taken  to  await  weather  suitable  for  the 
passage  over  the  Summit,  six  miles  farther  up  the  rugged 
sides  of  the  mountain,  and  the  most  difficult  and  tedious 
part  of  the  journey.  Two  miles  before  reaching  the 
Summit,  is  a  level  tract  of  about  an  acre  known  as  th<' 
Scales.  This  is  the  point  where  the  Indian  packer^;  for- 
merly weighed  the  goods  to  be  taken  over  the  Summii. 

From  the  Summit  to  the  head  of  Lake  Lindeman, 
nine  miles  must  be  travelled.  It  is  down  grade  and  prac- 
tically easy  to  accomplish  with  snow  on  the  ground,  but 
when  bare,  it  is  quite  difficult  on  account  of  rocks  and 
boulders.  So  much  so  in  fact,  that  pack-horses  cann'  t 
be  used  to  advantage  except  for  the  last  two  miles  of  v' 
distance.  The  route  is  easily  followed  by  keeping  in  th' 
Canyon. 

Lying  between  the  Summii  iJid  Lake  Lindeman  arc 


is  about 

nterior  is 
lich  does 
;  journey 
mplished 
immit   is 


;e  !.rM'- 


,,of 


1.3 


:  used  for 
his  point 

Canyon, 
np,  which 
s  reached, 
le  for  the 
he  rugged 
rid  tedious 
ching  the 
)\vn  as  thv 
icker^  for- 
Sumniii. 
^indeman, 
2  and  prac- 
round,  but 

rocks  and 
•ses  cann'  ^ 
niles  of  vl: 
ping  in  th' 

ndeman  arc 


"'—If' 


I  J'-  V 


I    i 


'11, 


i  i 
i1 


ROUTES    TO    THE   INTERIOR 


153 


three  small  lakes,  known  respectively  as  Crater,  Long, 
and  Deep  Lakes,  which  are  utilised  in  summer  in  ferrying 
miners'  outfits.  The  charge  for  ferrying  is  one  cent  per 
pound  over  each  lake,  the  miner  portaging  his  own  goods 
between  them. 

At  Lake  Lindeman  the  overland  portion  of  the  Dyea 
trail  terminates.  It  was  the  only  route  used  to  any  ex- 
tent for  many  years,  the  Indians  having  always  followed 
it  and  packed  over  it  in  preference  to  all  others.  Many 
Indians  found  employment  packing  outfits  over  the  trail 
at  prices  ranging  from  fifteen  to  thirty-eight  cents  per 
pound,  the  latter  figure  representing  the  maximum  price 
paid  in  the  rush  during  the  summer  of  1898.  But  tlus 
expensive  item  was  reduced  during  the  season,  by  two 
cable  tramways  over  the  Summit  from  the  Scales  to 
Crater  Lake,  a  distance  of  three  miles. 

The  overland  portion  of  the  Yukon  journey  having 
been  accomplished,  the  first  of  the  chain  of  lakes  forming 
the  headwaters  of  the  Yukon  is  Lake  Lindeman. 

The  timber  in  this  locality  is  sparse  and  of  poor  quality 
for  boat-building.  If  rafts  are  built,  they  should  be  con- 
structed in  a  manner  that  will  afford  protection  from 
water  a  foot  or  more  above  the  sides.  Otherwise  the  sup- 
plies are  liable  to  be  damaged  unless  at  the  outset  of  the 
journey  they  have  been  carefully  enclosed  in  oilskin 
sacks. 

From  the  head  of  Lake  Lindeman  on  both  sides  to 
Lake  Bennett,  the  general  character  of  the  country  is 
mountainous  with  narrow  bench  land  skirting  the  shore. 
The  distance  across  Lake  Lindeman  is  nearly  five  miles, 
and  from  the  foot  of  this  lake  a  portage  of  fifty  yards  is 


m 


;:  r  I 


154 


ALASKA 


I 


made  of  the  One  Mile  River  to  Lake  Bennett,  because 
this  portion  of  the  stream  is  very  swift  and  crooked  and 
full  of  rocks,  making  boat  passage  difficult  and  dangerous. 

At  the  head  of  Lake  Bennett,  there  are  high  mountains 
on  both  sides,  but  they  begin  to  flatten  out  towards  the 
foot  of  the  lake.  This  lake  is  twenty-four  miles  long. 
By  ascending  a  river,  which  enters  the  lake  from  the 
west,  timber  suitable  for  boat-building  is  to  be  found,  and 
a  small  saw-mill  is  in  operation.  The  mill  turns  out  boats 
for  sale.  In  ordinary  seasons  the  prices  range  irom  $75 
to  $150  for  boats,  but  prices  go  up  when  labour  and  logs 
become  scarce.  During  the  season  just  closed  it  was  an 
every-day  occurrence  for  boats  to  sell  for  $150  and  up- 
wards. 

Flat-bottomed  boats  with  flaring  sides  are  generally 
built,  because  this  style  is  more  readily  handled  in  the 
swift  water  which  will  be  encountered  farther  along  the 
route,  and  because  of  the  greater  carrying  capacity.  No 
boat  should  be  less  than  twenty-six  feet  long,  and  thirty 
feet  is  a  more  desirable  length,  because  such  pass  the 
swift  places  more  safely  and  easily. 

In  the  spring  while  the  ice  yet  remains  on  the  lakes, 
the  boat  and  outfit  may  be  loaded  upon  sledges  and  drawn 
for  many  miles.  Come  sled  to  the  lower  end  of  Lake  Le 
Barge  where  they  build  their  boats  and  await  the  break- 
ing up  of  the  ice  in  the  river.  Excellent  timber  is  found 
here.  When  the  ice  breaks  up  at  this  point,  it  goes  out 
quickly,  and  the  journey  down  the  river  may  begin  at 
once.  The  ice  in  the  lakes  above  will  remain  much 
longer.  Thus  the  object  in  sledging  to  this  point  is 
readily  seen. 


J'^tf^VW^  IfJ 


because 

iked  and 

ngerous. 

ountains 

ards  the 

les  long. 

rom  the 

und, and 

out  boats 

,rom  $75 

and  logs 

it  was  an 

and  up- 

generally 

ed  in  the 

along  the 

Lcity.     No 

and  thirty 

1  pass  the 

the  lakes, 
and  drawn 
)f  Lake  Lo 
the  break- 
ler  is  found 
it  goes  out 
y  begin  at 
nain  much 
lis  point  is 


»..:!.  r 


'■  hi 


YUKON  MINERS  SLEDDING  OVER  ROUTE. 

FROM  ^  PHOTOGRAPH  BY  WINTER  A  POND,   JUNEAU,  ALASKA. 


i 


1 


ROUTES    TO    THE  EXTERIOR 


155 


If  the  wait  for  the  ice  to  go  out  is  at  Lake  Bennett, 
the  right  shore  of  the  lake  should  be  followed  until  Three 
Mile  River  is  reached.  At  this  river,  which  is  the  con- 
necting water  between  Lakes  Bennett  and  Tagish,  a  trail 
once  used  by  a  band  of  cariboo  can  bt  traced  along  the 
foothills  for  a  distance  of  two  miles,  giving  to  it  the  name 
of  Cariboo  Crossing.  Follow  the  main  channel  of  Three 
Mile  River  to  the  head  of  Tagish  Lake,  and  then  keep 
the  left-hand  shore  to  the  foot,  a  distance  of  nineteen 
miles. 

Little  Windy  Arm,  located  at  the  upper  end  of  Tagish 
Lake,  and  Big  Windy  Arm  at  the  lower  end  are  somewhat 
dangerous  places  to  cross,  as  strong  winds  are  liable  to 
spring  up  suddenly,  especially  during  the  fall  season.  It 
is  safer  then  to  make  the  crossing  before  nine  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  as  the  winds  are  always  quieter  in  the  early 
hours  of  the  day. 

At  Tagish  Lake  is  stationed  a  Canadian  customs  officer 
to  whom  import  duties  on  miners'  outfits  must  be  paid. 
Canadian  duties  average  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  p  r 
cent,  ad  valorem.  The  officer  has  more  or  less  discretion- 
ary powers.  During  last  season,  under  instructions  from 
his  Government,  the  duties  were  very  light,  averaging 
but  seven  dollars  to  twelve  dollars  per  outfit.  The  officer 
is  assisted  by  a  detachment  of  mounted  police. 

Lake  Marsh  is  connected  with  Tagish  Lake  by  a  wide 
river  with  a  slow  current,  whose  banks  are  bordered  by 
low-lying  slopes,  timbered  with  cottonwood  and  white 
spruce.  The  distance  is  six  miles,  and  in  some  places 
the  water  is  very  shallow.  The  traveller  should  follow 
the  left  bank  of  Lake  Marsh  into  the  river  connecting 


i     I' 


ii 


)    PI 


156 


ALASKA 


this  with  Lake  Lc  Range,  keeping  on  the  right-hand 
side,  to  the  head  of  the  Canyon  twenty-five  miles  below. 
If  a  man  is  a  skilful  navigator  he  can  run  his  boat  through 
the  Canyon,  a  distance  of  three-fourths  of  a  mile,  and 
land  on  the  right-hand  side.  If  not,  he  had  better  make 
a  portage.  From  this  point  he  should  follow  the  left- 
hand  side  two  miles  to  the  head  of  White  Horse  Rapids 
and  land  on  the  left-hand  side.  Great  caution  should  be 
exercised  in  reaching  the  point  where  the  landing  is  made 
this  side  of  the  White  Horse.  Through  the  White  Horse 
one-half  mile,  in  a  low  stage  of  water,  the  boat  can  be 
dropped  with  a  line,  but  if  the  water  is  high,  a  portage 
of  about  one  hundred  yards  must  be  made,  and  on  the 
last  pitch  of  the  Canyon  another  portage  of  about  one 
hundred  feet  will  be  necessary.  From  this  point  there  is 
an  open  river  to  Lake  Le  Barge. 

From  the  head  to  the  foot  of  Lake  Le  Barge  is  a  dis- 
tance of  about  thirty-one  miles  averaging  five  miles  in 
width.  The  boat  should  be  headed  straight  for  an  island 
near  the  centre  of  the  lake,  and,  if  the  weather  is  favour- 
able, cross  from  the  island  to  the  right-hand  side  of  the 
lake.  From  the  island,  the  traveller  should  cross  to  the 
left-hand  side  of  the  lake,  if  windy,  and  it  is  better  to 
follow  close  to  the  shore.  From  the  foot  of  Lake  Le 
Barge  to  the  mouth  of  the  Hootalinqua  River,  extreme 
caution  should  be  observed  in  navigating  Thirty  Mile 
River,  as  the  water  is  very  swift  and  in  places  barely 
covers  dangerous  rocks.  From  this  point  it  is  clear 
sailing  for  one  hundred  and  thirty-three  miles  to  Five 
Fingers,  so  called  because  of  five  columns  of  rock  which 
partly  obstruct  the  river,   and  whose  outline  resembles 


ht-hand 

below. 

throu<;h 

lilc,  and 

er  make 

the  left- 

j  Rapids 

lould  be 

is  made 

tc  Horse 

it  can  be 

portage 

id  on  the 

ibout  one 

it  there  is 

e  is  a  dis- 
:  miles  in 
•  an  island 
is  favour- 
;ide  of  the 
-OSS  to  the 
better  to 
Lake  Le 
r,  extreme 
hirty  Mile 
ices  barely 
it   is  clear 
es  to  Five 
rock  which 
resembles 


1 j^ 


"v^^ 


«^ 


*1* 


■  >• 


V 

V 

's... 

/■■ 

>  :.. 

'5* 

•-  .jA'       ^, 

■"It 

"Ti'&iL. 

YUKON  MINERS  PACKING  OVER   ROUTE. 
FROM  A  PHOTOGRAPH  BV  WINTER  A  POND,   JUNEAU.  ALASKA. 


,.    ( 


'\     \ 


i         i 


■P=t7^ 


ROUTES    TO    THE  EXTERIOR 


»57 


the  fingers  of  the  human  h;ind.  Five  or  six  miles  before 
reaching  Five  Fingers,  the  current  becomes  much  swifter 
and  high  hills  hug  the  shore.  The  right-hand  bank 
sliould  be  followed  closely,  otherwise  the  bend  curves  so 
sharply  that  F'ive  Fingers  would  be  reached  before  a 
landing  could  be  effected.  This  landing  should  be  made 
twenty  yards  above  F^ive  Fingers  in  an  eddy,  and  if  the 
boat  is  heavily  laden,  it  should  be  lightened  before  at- 
tempting to  pass;  the  run  should  then  be  made,  landing 
on  the  right-hand  side. 

Following  the  right-hand  shore  for  .ibout  five  miles, 
Rink  Rapids,  one  and  one-half  miles  in  length,  caused  by 
a  chain  of  rocks  extending  nearly  across  the  river,  are 
reached.  The  right-hand  side  or  east  shore  must  be  fol- 
lowed closely  all  the  way.  I'>om  this  pomt,  the  river  is 
easy  to  navigate  to  its  mouth.  About  fifty-five  miles 
below  the  foot  of  Rink  Rapids  is  old  Fort  Selkirk.  It  is 
situated  near  the  confluence  of  Felly  and  Lewes  Rivers, 
which  unite  to  form  the  Yukon  River.  This  is  a  winter 
port  for  steamboats  plying  on  the  Yukon  and  its  tribu- 
taries. The  fort  was  pillaged  and  burned  b}'  the  coast 
Indians  in  I053,  and  nothing  remains  but  the  ruins  of  the 
chimneys. 

From,  old  Fort  Selkirk  the  river  has  a  uniform  width, 
contains  many  islands,  and  the  country  through  which  it 
runs  is  well  timbered  for  some  distance.  White  River,  a 
large  stream  having  a  current  of  ten  or  twelve  miles  an 
hour,  comes  roaring  down  from  the  west  ninety-five  miles 
below  Selkirk.  The  river  gets  its  name  from  the  appear- 
ance of  its  waters,  which  are  of  a  muddy  white  hue.  It 
is  supposed  to  have  its  source  in  a  number  of  high  moun- 


158 


ALASKA 


i'f'Jt 


tains  and  lakes  to  the  west.  Near  its  source,  the  Indians 
say,  there  is  an  active  volcano  which  they  call  Smoky 
Mountain. 

The  Yukon  rapidly  widens  after  being  joined  by  White 
River,  at  which  point  it  is  a  mile  across;  islands  dot  its 
surface  at  frequent  intervals,  and  the  valley  becomes 
broader.  Ten  miles  below  White  River,  Stewart  River 
enters  from  the  east.  Its  waters,  dark  and  deep,  are 
bordered  by  rugged  hills  which  here  and  there  assume 
the  proportion  of  mountains.  Miners  are  found  on  this 
river  and  its  numerous  tributaries  and  gulches,  many  of 
which  are  unprospected.  It  is  probably  six  hundred 
miles  in  length. 

About  seventy  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Stewart 
River,  Sixty  IMile  Creek  comes  in  from  the  west.  It  has 
a  trading  post  and  saw-mill,  and  prior  to  the  discoveries 
on  the  Klondike  was  a  winter  rendezvous  for  miners. 
The  creek  has  a  swift  current  and  is  filled  with  rapids, 
and  is  therefore  not  easy  of  ascent.  Below  Sixty  Mile 
Creek,  the  Yukon  becomfes  placid  and  the  number  of 
islands  increases.  The  valley  narrows  and  the  hills  are 
more  abrupt. 

From  Sixty  Mile  Creek  to  the  mouth  of  the  Klondike, 
the  distance  is  sixty-one  miles.  Here  is  located  the  town 
of  Dawson  City,  which  is  the  gateway  to  the  Klondike 
mines  on  the  tributary  streams  above.  As  soon  as  the 
marvellous  gold  discoveries  became  known  to  the  miners 
of  the  other  camps,  the  towns  of  Forty  Mile  and  Circle 
City  were  nearly  deserted.  Dawson  City  sprang  into  life 
as  the  metropolis  of  the  great  Yukon  basin,  and  in  a  few 
weeks  became  a  typical  western  mining  camp  in  every- 


c  Klondike, 
ed  the  town 
le  Klondike 
soon  as  the 
0  the  miners 
e  and  Circle 
anf^  into  life 
and  in  a  few 
mp  in  every - 


;    I- 


YUKON  MINERS  AND  NATIVES  PACKING  OVER  ROUTE. 
FPOM  A  PMOTOCiRAPH  BY  WINTER  X  POND,   JUNEAU.   ALAS^A. 


ROUTES    TO    THE  INTERIOR 


159 


thing  except  the  lawless  element.  The  town,  being 
within  the  boundary  of  North-west  Territory,  is  practically 
ruled  by  the  Gold  Commissioner  of  that  province.  His 
word  is  law  to  the  extent  that  he  decides  and  settles  all 
disputes,  from  the  ownership  of  million-dollar  mining 
claims  down  to  who  shall  have  the  right  to  cut  the  wood 
from  a  square  rod  of  ground.  His  rulings  are  quick  and 
to  the  point.  There  is  no  mining  license  issued  at  Daw- 
son City.  In  its  place  a  fee  of  $15  must  be  paid  when  a 
claim  is  recorded,  making  the  title  good  for  the  first  year. 
This  the  Gold  Commissioner  collects,  a;  well  as  all  subse- 
quent fees.  No  person  is  permitted  to  cut  grass  for  his 
pony,  spade  the  ground  for  a  garden,  or  chop  down  trees 
for  logs  or  wood,  or  undertake  any  enterprise,  large  or 
small,  without  first  paying  a  fee  and  securing  a  permit. 

The  mounted  police  rule  the  can  '  with  a  hand  of  iron. 
No  riots  ever  threaten  and  the  lawless  element  is  never 
permitted  to  get  a  footing.  The  police  enforce  the  wishes 
of  the  Provincial  Government  as  directly  expressed  by  the 
Gold  Commissioner. 

Once  at  Dawson,  the  new  arrival  must  determine  his 
course  for  fortune  seeking.  He  may  secure  work  at 
wages  ranging  from  $5  to  $12  per  day,  or  he  may  pene- 
trate the  unexplored  gulches  in  search  of  a  "  strike  "  of 
his  own.  And  here  it  may  be  well  for  the  newcomer  to 
understand  that  if  he  expects  to  work  at  one  of  the 
mines,  it  would  be  well  for  him  to  carry  his  own  food,  for 
the  scarcity  of  provisions  at  times  has  compelled  the 
owners  of  claims  to  hire  men  with  the  understanding 
that  they  board  themselves,  and  this  condition  is  liable 
to  prevail  at  any  time  in  the  mining  camps  of  Alaska. 


i6o 


ALASKA 


If  the  prospector  is  successful  in  discovering  a  new 
"  creek,"  he  is  entitled  to  two  claims,  the  one  on  which  the 
discovery  is  located  and  the  next  one  to  it.  Otherwise  he 
is  entitled  to  but  one  claim  by  location  in  a  single  district. 

Steamers  do  not  start  from  Seattle  until  June  1st  at 
the  earliest,  and  Dawson  cannot  be  reached  before  the 
middle  of  July.  As  the  working  season  opens  about  the 
ist  of  June  at  the  mines,  it  will  be  seen  that  six  weeks  of 
the  short  season,  when  prospecting  can  be  done,  is  lost 
in  going  via  St.  Michaels. 

Continuing  the  journey  down  the  Yukon  from  Daw- 
son, at  the  mouth  of  Forty  Mile  Creek,  located  almost 
within  the  shadow  of  the  Arctic  Circle,  is  the  Alaska 
Commercial  Company's  station,  Forty  Mile.  The  town 
has  a  population  of  about  five  or  six  hundred,  and  be- 
sides the  Alaska  Commercial  Company's  store,  which  at 
the  opening  of  the  season  carries  a  stock  of  goods  valued 
at  $125,000  or  more,  there  are  restaurants,  a  billiard- 
hall,  saloons,  an  opera-house,  barber-shops,  and  the  town 
boasts  of  the  finest  residence  in  a  region  covering  three 
hundred  thousand  square  miles  of  territory.  It  is  a  two- 
story  building,  owned  by  Joseph  Cooper,  an  old-time 
Colorado  miner,  and  cost  $3000. 

"  This  town  on  the  Yukon,"  says  a  recent  writer,  "  is  an 
ideal  '49  mining  camp;  its  saloons,  gamliling  houses,  concert 
halls,  etc.,  give  it  an  air  of  bustling  act'vity,  from  whi(  h, 
however,  the  element  of  outlawry  is  almost  entirely  climinatcil. 
Miners'  law  prevails  and  justice  is  fairly  and  impartially  ad- 
ministered. The  entire  valley  bears  an  enviable  re]nitatitiii 
for  peace  and  morality.  Simple  hut  effective  self-adoptdi 
rules  of  government  are  fcniiul  amply  sufficient  to  insure  order, 
and  they  are  universally  respected." 


TT  n 


ng  a  new 
which  the 
lerwise  he 
le  district, 
une  1st  at 
before  the 
about  the 
X  weeks  of 
Dne,  is  lost 

from  Daw- 

.ted  ahnost 
the  Alaska 
The  town 
ed,  and  bc- 
•e,  which  at 
oods  valued 

,   a    billiard-         ■  '*'^ /*,^%i^'''-  i' ^^^^  ,\ '  l.\^^        '^  §s 

nd  the  town         ■  .  f.^-^A-^Dtit  .-«_.     \,..         m^^^^^^  p9 

vering  three 

It  is  a  two- 

an   old-tinic 


vriter,  "  is  an 
auses,  concert 
from  which, 
;ly  climinatLHl. 
nipartially  .vl- 
ble  reputation 
e  self-ado])tc(l 
0  insure  order. 


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Ti    1 


ROUTES    TO    THE   INTERIOR 


l6i 


About  three-fourths  of  a  mile  below  Forty  Mile,  is  a 
rival  town  named  after  Cudahy,  so  well  known  through- 
out the  country  as  a  packer  of  meats,  and  who  is  a  mem- 
ber of  the  North  American  Trading  and  Transportation 
Company.  This  post  was  established  in  the  summer  of 
1892.  The  same  company  has  established  a  number  of 
posts  at  different  points  on  the  river,  some  of  which  had 
not  heretofore  been  covered  by  the  Alaska  Commercial 
Company. 

About  one  hundred  and  seventy  miles  from  Forty  Mile, 
to  the  west,  the  Yukon  flats  are  encountered,  and  just 
within  them  is  located  the  mining  camp  of  Circle  City, 
which  was  founded  in  the  fall  of  1894.  It  is  the  dis- 
tributing point  for  the  vast  regions  surrounding  Birch 
Creek,  which  flows  into  the  Yukon  two  hundred  and 
twenty-five  miles  below.  Circle  City  has  been  platted 
into  streets,  and  a  recording  office  for  this  district  is 
located  here.  Six  miles  westward  from  Circle  City,  a 
portage  of  six  miles  carries  the  traveller  to  the  headwa- 
ters of  Birch  Creek,  nearly  two  hundred  miles  above 
its  mouth. 

The  territory  drained  by  the  Yukon  River  in  every 
direction  for  three  or  four  hundred  miles  in  this  region  is 
low  country,  called  the  Yukon  flats.  These  flats,  the 
extent  of  which  is  not  known,  are  supposed  by  miners 
and  others  to  have  at  one  time  formed  the  bed  of  a  vast 
lake. 

Munook  Creek,  upon  which  gold  was  first  discovered, 
in  1897,  enters  the  Yukon  below  Fort  Yukon.  It  is  the 
next  gold-bearing  creek  of  importance  below  the  mouth 
of  Birch  Creek. 


\  ^  \ 


;  ii 


i  \  •  n 


1 62 


A /.AS A' A 


The  indications  of  rich  deposits  in  the  Munook  district 
are  strong,  and  several  claims  have  yielded  excellent  re- 
sults. The  coining  season's  clean-up  will  have  to  be 
known,  however,  before  it  can  be  determined  whether 
or  not  it  is  as  rich  as  some  of  its  enthusiastic  claim-owners 
bespeak  for  it. 

The  principal  tributary  of  the  Yukon  below  Birch 
Creek  is  the  Tanana  River,  probably  eight  hundred 
miles  in  length,  and  having  a  number  of  other  streams  of 
considerable  size  flowing  into  it.  The  Tanana  drains 
the  country  stretching  from  the  head  of  the  river,  and 
the  Yukon  to  the  White  River  on  the  south.  The 
Tanana  River  has  been  very  slightly  explored,  and  little 
is  known  of  it  or  of  the  natives  who  inhabit  its  banks. 
They  are,  however,  reported  by  the  few  venturesom'- 
prospectors  who  have  made  their  way  into  this  seccion. 
to  be  rather  ill-disposed  towards  the  whites  invading 
their  territory. 

Nuklukyeto  is  located  at  the  junction  of  the  Tozikak.it 
River  with  the  Yukon,  where  the  Alaska  Commercial 
Company  has  a  trading  post  which  was  established  a 
number  of  years  ago. 

About  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  below  the  Tanana, 
the  waters  of  the  Koyukuk  River  join  the  Yukon,  from 
the  north.  Below  the  Koyukuk  River,  the  only  streams 
of  any  importance  that  empty  into  the  Yukon,  are  the 
Innoko,  coming  in  from  the  south,  and  the  Anvik,  about 
thirty  miles  farther  down,  which  enters  from  the  north. 

The  only  station  at  which  the  ocean  steamers,  having 
freight  or  passengers  for  the  upper  Yukon,  land,  is 
St.  Michaels.     This  has  been  the  principal  trading  post 


)k  district 
cellent  re- 
ive to  be 
i  whether 
im -owners 

:low   Birch 
t   hundred 
streams  of 
ana  drains 
:  river,  and 
3uth.     The 
i,  and  little 
t  its  banks, 
'enturesomo 
:his  seccion. 
es  invading 

le  Tozikakat 
Commercial 
stablished  a 

the  Tanana, 
Yukon,  from 

only  streams 
ikon,  are  the 
Anvik,  about 
■n  the  north, 
amers,  having 
kon,  land,  is 
1  trading  p'-^^t 


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ROUTES    TO    THE  INTERIOR 


163 


il 


of  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company  and  the  outfitting 
post  for  its  station  on  the  river  for  the  past  thirty  years. 
It  is  located  about  eighty-five  miles  to  the  north  of  the 
usual  entrance  to  the  Yukon,  on  what  is  known  as  St. 
Michaels  Island. 

The  question  is  often  asked  why  a  location  for  a  town 
has  not  been  made  nearer  the  mouth  of  the  river,  thus 
obviating  the  necessity  of  the  river  boats  steaming  into 
the  open  waters  of  Bering  Sea  to  take  on  their  freight. 
So  far  as  known,  there  is  not  a  suitable  location  nearer 
the  mouth  of  the  river  that  the  high  water,  on  the  break- 
ing of  the  ice  in  the  spring,  does  not  overflow.  The 
Yukon  is  very  shallow  at  its  mouths,  eight  feet  being 
the  greatest  depth  found. 

All  sorts  of  rumours  have  been  afloat  during  the  past 
season  to  the  effect  that  a  new  channel  had  been  dis- 
covered through  which  a  vessel  drawing  twelve  feet  of 
water  could  safely  enter  and  then  proceed  for  several 
miles  up  the  river.  While  there  may  be  some  truth  to 
this,  we  are  not  prepared  to  accept  it,  for  up  to  the  close 
of  navigation  last  fall,  such  a  channel  had  not  been 
located.  The  Alaska  Commercial  Company  attempted 
to  find  such  a  channel  during  several  different  seasons 
without  success. 

The  ice  passes  out  of  the  Yukon  and  leaves  it  free  for 
navig.ition  about  the  middle  of  June,  but  it  does  not 
clear  for  an  approach  to  St.  Michaels  until  several  days 
later. 

S'l.  Michaels  is  what  might  be  termed  a  "  summer 
town."  Until  last  year,  its  population  for  nine  months 
of  the  year  consisted  of  about  one  hundred  and   fifty 


i  ^i,  v. 


164 


ALASKA 


natives  and  a  «5Core  or  so  of  whites.  When  navigation 
opened  in  the  sunfimer,  missionaries  and  traders  from 
long  distances  congregated  here,  and  until  the  last 
steamer  departed  for  th'i  States,  about  the  middle  of 
September,  Uncle  Sam's  most  remote  town  presentctl 
unusual  scenes  of  life  and  activity. 

With  the  excitement  attending  the  discovery  of  gold 
on  the  Klondike,  St.  Michaels  became  at  once  conspicu- 
ous as  the  objective  point  for  the  thousand  and  one 
steamship  and  transportation  companies  that  sprang  up 
like  mushrooms  in  the  night. 

On  October  27,  1897,  an  order  was  issued  by  the  Sec- 
retary of  War,  setting  aside  St.  Michaels  as  a  military 
post,  and  the  country  for  a  radius  of  twenty-five  miles 
therefrom  as  a  Government  reservation. 

During  the  past  season  the  Alaska  Commercial  Com- 
pany made  extensive  improvements  here,  erecting 
wharves,  hotels,  v, arehouses,  and  store  buildings;  the 
North  American  Trading  and  Transportation  Company, 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  west,  made  extensive  improve- 
ments of  a  like  character,  which  location  was  named 
Healy  in  honour  of  the  original  projector  of  the  company ; 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  farther  to  the  south-east,  the 
Alaska  Exploration  Company,  otherwise  known  as  the 
"  Liebes  "  Company,  selected  their  location,  and  all 
along  the  beach,  buildings  were  erected  by  individuals 
and  companies  for  trading  and  transportation  purposes  in 
anticipation  of  extensive  and  permanent  business  arising 
from  the  gold  discoveries  along  the  Yukon  River  and 
streams  tributary  thereto. 

The  establishing  of  a  military  post  at   St.    Michaels 


avigatioii 
Icrs  from 
the  last 
Tjiddlc  of 
presented 

■y  of  gold 
conspicu- 
and  one 
sprang  up 

y  the  Sec- 
a  military 
•five  miles 

rcial  Com- 
erectint( 
dings;    the 

Company, 
e  improve- 
xas  named 
I  company; 
h-east,  the 
3\vn  as  the 
)n,  and  all 
individuals 
purposes  in 
ness  arisin[^ 

River  and 

t.    Michaels 


rtw3' 


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/ROUTES    TO    THE  INTERIOR 


165 


brought  with  it  a  company  of  soldiers  who  regularly 
patrol  and  garrison  the  island,  thus  placing  it  under  mili- 
tary control,  and  the  discipline  is  thorough.  During  the 
stirring  and  exciting  events  which  occurred  here  in  the 
summer  of  '98,  when  hundreds  of  people  were  here 
stranded,  and  much  discontent  and  dissatisfaction  was 
created  through  the  failure  of  companies  to  carry  out 
their  contracts,  scarcely  an  instance  of  lawlessness  was 
reported. 

The  Yukon  River,  with  its  many  tributaries,  a  number 
of  which  can  be  navigated  by  light-draft  steamers  for 
several  hundred  miles,  traverses  an  empire.  It  is  naviga- 
ble by  400-ton  stern-wheel  boats  drawing  four  feet  of 
water,  for  a  distance  of  1850  miles  from  its  mouth,  or  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Pelly  River.  It  flows  into  Bering  Sea 
through  several  different  channels,  that  farthest  north 
being  nearly  one  hundred  miles  distant  from  its  most 
southern  artery.  Its  course  is  westerly,  but  bends  north 
to  the  Arctic  circle  when  about  midway  across  the  Terri- 
tory. At  the  junction  of  the  Pelly  and  Lewis  Rivers,  it 
has  an  average  width  of  perhaps  three-quarters  of  a  mile 
until  it  reaches  Fort  Yukon,  where  it  is  about  eight 
miles  wide,  and  again  narrows  to  about  three  miles  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Koyukuk  River,  and  maintains  this 
width  to  Koserefski ;  from  this  point  it  again  widens  to 
eight  or  ten  miles  and  carries  this  width  towards  its 
mouth. 

The  navigable  tributaries  of  the  Yukon  for  small,  light- 
draft  boats  may  be  grouped  as  follows : 

The  Andreafski  for  50  miles;  Shagluk  Slough,  50 
miles;  Innoko,  50  miles;  Tanana,  300  miles;  Klanarcher- 


i  \' 


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ALASKA 


gut,  25  miles;  Beaver  Creek,  100  miles;  Birch  Creek,  150 
miles;  Koyukuk,  300 miles;  Porcupine,  icx) miles;  Stew- 
art, 300  miles;  Pelly,  50  miles;  and  the  McMillan,  200 
miles. 

While  the  Yukon  is  navigable  for  a  distance  of  1850 
miles  with  a  400-ton  vessel,  a  100-ton  steamer  with  pow- 
erful machinery  would  be  able  to  warp  through  Rink 
Rapids  and  Five  Fingers,  and  thence  three  hundred  miles 
farther  through  Hootalinqua  River  to  the  head  of  Teslin 
Lake. 

The  Skaguay  or  White  Pass  Route 

The  Skaguay  trail  sprang  into  prominence  in  the 
summer  of  1897.  It  was  built  by  a  British  corporation 
ostensibly  to  secure  a  sole  charter  from  the  Canadian 
Government  for  the  construction  and  operation  of  a 
railroad  and  trail  over  the  country  included  in  British 
territory. 

It  begins  with  a  waggon  road  starting  from  Skaguay 
Bay,  which  is  an  inlet  of  Lynn  Canal,  three  miles  south 
of  Chilkoot  Inlet.  The  waggon  road  leads  through  the 
level  valley  of  the  Skaguay  River  for  about  three  miles. 
Half  a  mile  up  the  road  the  river  is  crossed  by  fordini,', 
and  is  more  or  less  dangerous  owing  to  the  swiftness  of 
the  current. 

F'rom  the  end  of  the  waggon  road  the  ascent  begins, 
and  a  very  trying  climb  it  is.  Once  upon  the  first  bench, 
there  is  a  most  beautiful  little  lake,  the  winding  course 
of  which  is  traversed  to  the  base  of  Porcupine  Hill,  a 
half-mile  away.  The  ascent  of  this  hill  is  made  l)y 
switchbacks,  very  short  and  steep.     At  the  top  is  a  cause- 


I'  f 


Creek,  150 
les;  Stew- 
lillan,  200 

ice  of  1850 
with  pow- 
ough  Rink 
idred  miles 
.d  of  Teslin 


:nce  in  the 
corporation 
le  Canadian 
ration  of  a 
d  in  British 

om  Skaguay 

miles  south 

through  the 

three  miles. 

1  by  fordini,', 

:  swiftness  of 

scent  begins, 
ic  first  bench, 
inding  course 
upine  Hill,  a 
is  made  by 
top  is  a  cause- 


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.  t«  * 


ROUTES   TO    THE  INTERIOR 


167 


way  which  marks  the  place  and  looks  as  if  it  was  carved 
out  on  purpose  for  a  trail  or  road.  The  descent  to  Por- 
cupine Creek,  on  the  other  side  of  the  hill,  is  more  steep 
and  dangerous  than  the  ascent.  Now  another  climb  up 
a  higher  mountain  begins.  The  opposite  side  of  the 
canyon  of  the  Skaguay  River  presents  a  very  rugged, 
weird  picture.  The  highest  point  of  the  hill  is  just  oppo- 
site a  waterfall  fifteen  hundred  feet  in  descent.  About 
two-thirds  of  the  way  down  it  divides  into  three  streams, 
and  the  passing  miners  accordingly  christened  it  *'  Pitch- 
fork Falls."  The  next  descent  is  to  the  first  bridge  on 
the  Skaguay  River.  For  two  miles  the  trail  crossing  the 
eastern  shore  leads  through  a  comparatively  level  but 
miry  tract  of  country.  Then  two  more  crossings  by 
means  of  bridges  are  made  over  the  river  within  the  space 
of  three-fourths  of  a  mile.  The  second  of  these  bridges 
is  designated  as  the  "  Last  Bridge."  It  is  situated  at 
the  foot  of  Big  Hill,  the  most  difficult  mountain  climb  on 
the  route.  This  mountain  is  long  and  steep  and  the 
sides  contain  many  muddy  places.  The  descent  to  the 
river  is  precipitous  and  short. 

Foot-passengers  may  avoid  this  hill  by  turning  to  the 
left  after  crossing  the  Last  Bridge  and  following  up 
the  river  on  a  trail  known  as  the  Cutoff.  It  was  utterly 
impassable,  large  rocks,  boulders,  and  ledges  obstructing 
the  way,  and  it  was  thought  they  could  be  removed  by 
blasting.  Mr.  Sylvester  Scovel,  the  famous  correspond- 
ent of  the  New  York  World,  sought  to  undertake  this 
task,  in  the  summer  of  1S97,  and  announced  a  donation 
of  Si 500  on  behalf  of  his  paper,  which  sum  was  consider- 
ably   increased    by    private    subscriptions.      Mr.    Scovel 


i:: 


n     i  I' 


|69 


ALASKA 


returned  to  New  York  before  the  work  was  completed, 
however,  when  it  was  understood  the  World  had  aban- 
doned further  interest  in  the  project. 

From  the  point  where  the  Cutoff  trail  rejoins  the  main 
trail  the  route  continues  along  the  river,  over  dangerous 
rocks  and  sharp  grades  for  about  one  mile,  where  the 
river  must  be  forded  at  the  foot  of  the  Summit.  The 
ford  is  in  the  widest  part  of  a  series  of  rapids,  and 
difficulty  in  crossing  is  avoided  only  by  the  exercise  of 
great  care. 

When  once  across  the  river,  an  altitude  of  2300  feet  to 
the  Summit  is  reached  by  a  gradual  ascent. 

From  the  Summit  to  Lake  Bennett  the  trail  follows  an 
open  but  rugged  and  barren  valley  for  about  seventeen 
miles,  through  which  lies  a  chain  of  lakes,  three  of  which. 
Summit,  Middle,  and  Shallow  Lakes,  may  be  used  in 
transporting  freight  in  canoes  if  packing  around  them  is 
undesirable.  The  trail  from  Shallow  Lake  to  Lake  Ben- 
nett, about  nine  miles  long,  is  through  a  forest,  small  in 
growth,  part  of  which  was  destroyed  by  fire  years  ago. 
Within  this  forest  there  are  scores  of  bogs  and  deserted 
beaver  marshes,  which  make  the  passage  with  pack 
animals  extremely  difficult.  The  trail  leads  to  the  lower 
end  of  Lake  Lindeman  and  intersects  the  Dyea  trail  at 
this  point.  The  total  length  of  the  Skaguay  trail  is 
forty-two  miles,  all  of  which  may  be  traversed  by  pack 
animals. 

In  the  summer  of  1897  tht  wild  rush  for  the  gold-fields 
began,  and  the  Skaguay  trail  was  the  one  mostly  used. 
Soon  a  town  sprang  up  at  the  coast  terminus,  consisting 
at  first  of  tents  and  shacks.     In  an  exceedingly  short 


TTT 


it 


ipleted, 
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ake  Bcn- 
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;old-fielcls 
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ROUTES    TO    THE  IN^TEKIOR 

time  fairly  substantial  buildings  were  erected,  and  the 
young  city  became  known  far  and  wide.  A  great  rush 
for  the- location  of  town  lots  by  squatters  took  place,  and 
speculation  in  real  estate  soon  began.  This  brought  into 
greater  prominence  the  trail,  which  became  the  most 
conspicuous  one  into  the  interior  during  the  past  season. 

The  town  of  Skaguay,  while  containing  a  population 
estimated  at  four  thousand,  has  all  the  marks  of  a  frontier 
town.  Every  branch  of  industry  is  carried  on  and  ex- 
tensive wharves  make  the  landing  from  ocean  vessels  safe 
and  convenient.  To  what  extent  other  permanent  im- 
provements may  be  made  will  be  determined  during  the 
present  year,  when  the  railroad  now  pushing  on  to  the 
interior  demonstrates  whether  it  is  to  be  a  popular  sub- 
stitute for  the  old  manner  of  individual  packing,  and  with 
animals  and  tramways,  which  promised  so  much  to  the 
ambitious  prospectors  who  experienced  distress  and 
agony  in  the  early  days  on  their  way  to  the  Klondike. 

With  the  advent  of  the  railroad  and  a  line  of  steamers 
connecting  with  those  of  the  Yukon  River  via  Rink 
Rapids  and  Five  Fingers,  and  thence  to  the  headwaters 
of  the  Yukon,  this  town  will  outstrip  its  rival,  Dyea,  and 
may  become,  as  many  believe,  the  metropolis  of  South- 
east Alaska. 

The  Stikcen  River  Route 

It  is  but  natural  that  the  British  Government  should 
feel  much  interested  in  the  matter  of  reaching  the  gold- 
fields  of  the  interior,  for  not  only  the  Klondike,  but  a 
very  large  portion  of  the  region  drained  by  the  Yukon 
River,  lies  within  its  territory. 


W 


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I 


ih 


if 


f 


1» 


I 


170 


ALASA'A 


From  the  moment  the  first  discoveries  were  reported 
on  the  Klondike,  great  diligence  has  been  exercised  by 
the  Dominion  Government  in  ascertaining  if  there  was 
not  some  point  on  the  coast  other  than  Lynn  Canal  from 
which  a  good  route  could  be  found  to  the  new  mining 
camp;  but  the  past  season  has  demonstrated  that  the 
only  feasible  one  is  that  having  Dyea  or  Skaguay  as  the 
initial  point. 

At  least  one  survey  was  made  by  this  Government  from 
Telegraph  Creek  to  Teslin  Lake,  a  distance  of  about  one 
hundred  and  thirty  miles,  which  is  known  as  "  Middle  " 
route.  The  survey  shows  that  for  the  first  five  miles  the 
grade  averages  two  hundred  feet  to  the  mile,  and  that 
the  highest  elevation  reached  on  the  route  is  seven  hun- 
dred feet.  For  the  first  seventy  miles  the  character  of 
the  country  is  high,  but  from  here  to  the  lake,  a  distance 
of  about  sixty  miles,  it  is  much  lower,  and  during  early 
spring  considerable  difficulty  is  encountered  on  account 
of  the  low  character  of  the  country. 

There  are  two  other  routes  which  have  been  prospected, 
one  leaving  Telegraph  Creek  and  bearing  north  for  about 
twenty-five  miles,  and  then  heading  direct  for  Teslin 
Lake.  This  route  is  high  and  dry  for  nearly  the  entire 
distance,  and  although  more  or  less  rugged  does  not 
reach  an  altitude  of  more  than  seventeen  hundred  feet, 
and  its  length  does  not  exceed  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles. 

The  third,  or  southern,  route  leaves  the  river  at  Glenora, 
twelve  miles  south  of  Telegraph  Creek,  and  is  about  one- 
hundred  and  twenty  miles  long,  following  a  course  tn 
Teslin  Lake  about  twenty  miles  south  of  Middle  route. 

It  was  proposed  to  establish  pack-trains  over  Middle 


ROUTES   TO    THE  INTERIOR 


171 


route,  and  had  the  Canadian  Government  appropriated 
money  for  building  corduroy  roads  where  needed  over 
the  low  places,  as  was  expected,  overland  trans;  .rtation 
could  have  been  had  for  passengers  and  freight  the  entire 
distance  to  Teslin  Lake.  This  would  doubtless  be  a 
more  expensive  route  to  travel  on  account  of  the  long 
distance  of  packing,  but  the  difificulties  encountered  in 
passing  over  the  Summit  on  botli  the  Dyea  and  Skaguay 
routes  would  not  be  met  with  here. 

The  country  throughout  almost  the  entire  distance 
from  the  Stikeen  River  to  Teslin  Lake  has  every  appear- 
ance of  being  a  rich  agricultural  region  suitable  for  the 
cultivation  of  barley,  oats,  potatoes,  and  other  vll;  tables. 
These  have  been  successfully  raised  in  the  vicinity  of 
Telegraph  Creek  for  a  number  of  years.  Bunch  grass 
abounds  over  a  great  portion  of  this  entire  section. 

The  Stikeen  River  is  a  treacherous  stream.  Its  waters 
are  swift  and  the  channel  always  uncertain.  It  resembles 
in  some  respects  the  Missouri  River,  sand-bars  being  more 
or  less  frequent,  the  largest  Ij'ing  sixty-five  miles  from 
Wrangel.  Navigating  this  river  in  canoes  is  a  long, 
tedious,  and  dangerous  undertaking,  and  should  not  be 
attempted  without  Indian  guides  who  are  familiar  with 
the  stream.  A  river  boat  drawing  more  than  twenty- four 
inches,  after  being  loaded  would  have  difficulty  during 
most  of  the  season  in  ascending  the  river,  but  would 
doubtless  be  able  to  get  off  the  bars  without  serious 
damage,  as  no  rocks  or  boulders  are  found  on  them. 
The  greatest  difificulty  a  boat  would  encounter  on  the 
river  would  be  between  Glenora  and  Telegraph  Creek, 
where  rapids  cover  the  entire  distance  of  twelve  miles. 


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S'fe-' 


i'i- 


172 


ALASKA 


At  Teslin  Lake  an  abundance  of  black  pine  and  spruce 
abounds  and  a  saw-mill  was  erected  the  past  season. 
This  route  to  Dawson  City  extends  through  Teslin  Lake 
and  the  interior  country  via  the  Hootalinqua  River,  and 
thence  down  the  Yukon. 

The  telegraph  line  upon  which  millions  of  dollars  were 
spent  in  the  early  '6o's,  having  in  contemplation  a  trans- 
continental line  to  Bering  Strait  and  thence  through 
Siberia  and  the  Old  World,  and  which  was  suddenly 
abandoned  because  the  Atlantic  cable  was  successfully 
laid,  is  now,  it  is  said,  after  the  lapse  of  over  a  quarter 
of  a  century,  to  be  rejuvenated.  A  great  many  miles  of 
poles  were  erected  and  wires  strung,  and  all  through  the 
north-west  possessions  these  poles  and  wires  are  still 
found. 

The  Canadian  Pacific  Telegraph  Company  is  reported 
to  have  decided  to  extend  its  line  the  coming  season  from 
Cariboo  to  Telegraph  Creek,  and  thence  to  Teslin  Lake 
and  Dawson  City.  This  is  almost  the  identical  route 
followed  by  the  original  surveys,  and  with  the  consum- 
mation of  this  project  the  outside  world  will  know  in  a 
few  hours  after,  the  happenings  of  far-off  Alaska,  which, 
under  present  conditions,  take  weeks  and  even  months 
to  reach  us. 

Taku  Route 

Taku  River,  emptying  into  an  inlet  of  the  same  name 
a  dozen  miles  or  so  east  of  Juneau,  has  figured  promi- 
nently during  the  last  few  years  as  a  probable  liritish 
route  into  the  interior  of  Alaska.  Two  or  three  parties 
have  at  different  times  attempted  to  reach  the  interior 


KOUTES   TO    rilE  INTEKIOR 


«73 


by  Taku  River  during;  tlic  winter,  but  in  c:ich  instance 
became  cliscoiira^eil  and  returned.  It  is  this  river  that 
Schwatka  ascended  on  his  hist  trip  into  the  interior  in  the 
spring  of  1891.  Me  found  an  easy  grade  going  from  the 
river  to  the  eastern  extremity  of  Teshn  Lake,  ninety 
miles  overland,  but  thirty  miles  of  that  distance  lies 
through  a  low,  swampy  country  which,  before  it  becomes 
practicable  as  a  route  for  freighting,  will  have  to  be 
corduroyed. 

Dalton  or  Chilkat  Pass  Route 

A  route  that  has  attracted  much  attention  during  the 
past  year  is  what  is  known  as  Dalton *s  trail,  so  named  in 
honour  of  Jack  Dalton,  one  of  the  best  known  explorers 
in  Alaska.  It  leaves  Lynn  Canal  at  Pyramid  Harbour, 
following  up  Chilkat  River  to  the  junction  of  the 
Kluhenee  River,  which  it  follows  to  its  source,  then 
keeping  to  the  west  of  Lake  Arkel,  and  striking  the 
Yukon  River  at  Fort  Selkirk,  five  miles  below  the  mouth 
of  the  Pclly  River.  This  route  requires  a  portage  of 
about  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles  and  has  an  easy 
grade  most  of  the  way,  though  it  has  an  altitude  of  about 
four  thousand  feet. 

One  feature  that  is  largely  in  its  favour  is  that  it  is 
comparatively  safe  to  travel  over  at  any  season  of  the 
year,  for  the  difficult  ascent  of  the  Summit  encountered 
on  both  the  Skatiuav  and  Dvea  trails  is  avoided  here,  thus 
robbing  it  of  the  terrors  which  beset  the  traveller  on  both 
the  other  routes  in  the  cold  months  of  winter. 

Mackenzie  Kivcr  Route 
It  is  not  likely  that  what  is  known  as  the  Mackenzie 


f 


'74 


ALASKA 


River  route  will  ever  become  a  much-travelled  thoiough- 
far?  into  the  interior  of  Alaska,  yet  it  is  true  that  a  route 
has  been  found  by  way  of  the  Arctic  Ocean  to  the  mouth 
of  this  river,  with  a  short  portage  to  the  headwaters  of 
the  Porcupine,  or  by  the  eastern  branch  of  that  river  to 
its  head,  and  a  short  portage  to  the  headwaters  of  Coal 
Creek,  flowing  into  the  Yukon  near  Fort  Cudahy.  This 
route  has  been  travelled  several  times  during  t'..«.  iasr 
few  years  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  mail  which  left  San 
Francisco  late  in  the  summer  via  St.  Michaels  to  Fort 
Cudahy,  thence  to  the  American  wlialing  fleet  in  win- 
ter quarters  in  the  Arctic  near  the  mouth  of  the  Mac- 
kenzie River. 

The  Back- Door  Route 

This  route  attracted  considerable  attention  among 
Canadians  during  the  past  year,  and  it  was  thought  it 
would  be  adopted  by  many  going  into  the  interior  from 
the  Canadian  provinces.  The  strongest  argument  in  its 
favor  is,  that  it  is  practically  an  all-water  route,  and  al- 
though it  is  not  claimed  that  the  gold-fields  can  be 
reached  in  less  time  by  this  route,  it  is  urged  that  it  can 
be  made  in  summer  with  more  comfort  and  less  expense. 

With  the  exception  of  the  overland  journey  of  forty 
miles  between  Edmonton  and  Athabasca  Landing,  the 
portages  are  shori.  Until  the  latter  end  of  the  journey, 
or  the  Porcupine  River  is  reached,  settlements  and  forts 
are  found  at  convenient  distances,  and  the  route  lies  for 
the  most  part  through  a  fish  and  game  country,  «nd  sup- 
plies can  be  had  at  mod'-Tate  cost. 

After  leaving  the  railro.id  the  route  lies  over  the  same- 
track  used  by  the  Hudson   Pay  Company   for  nearly  .i 


M 


ji: 


/(OUTES   TO    THE  INTERIOR 


m 


century,  and  the  different  points  present  many  evidences 
of  civilisation. 

If  this  route  had  proved  practicable  in  its  present  state, 
this  year  would  doubtless  have  ^ecn  it  much  improved, 
for  the  competition  of  the  various  transportation  com- 
panies has  awakened  strong  rivalry  as  to  which  is  the 
most  feasible  route  and  which  can  offer  the  best  induce- 
ments for  people  to  travel  over  to  reach  the  gold-fields 
of  the  north. 

The  main  line  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railroad  branches 
to  the  north  at  Calgary,  and  in  a  few  hours  Edmonton, 
the  end  of  the  railroad,  is  reached.  Here  the  first  over- 
land part  of  the  journey  is  made  to  Athabasca  Landing, 
a  distance  of  forty  miles.  From  this  point,  Athabasca 
River  is  traversed  for  one  hundred  and  sixty-five  miles 
to  Grand  Rapids,  where,  to  avoid  three-fourths  of  a  mile 
of  rocky  rapids,  a  portage  must  be  made,  letting  the  boat 
through  by  rwians  of  a  rope. 

After  thi?  point  is  reached,  the  boat  may  proceed 
ninct_,  miles  to  Fort  McMurray,  but  extreme  caution 
must  be  exercised  in  navigating,  as  the  river  is  one  con- 
tinuous extent  of  rapids  and  swirling  pools. 

At  Fort  McMurray,  clear  water  is  again  found  to 
Athabasca  Lake,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  eighty- 
five  miles,  where  the  lake  must  be  crossed  a  distance  of 
fifteen  miles  to  Fort  Chippewyan.  From  here  follow 
the  lake  ten  miles  to  the  mouth  of  Slave  River,  and  fol- 
low this  stream  nearly  one  hundred  miles,  or  to  the  head 
of  a  portage  of  about  eighteen  miles,  commencing  this 
side  of  Fort  Smith. 

If  desired,  the  river  may  be  followed  instead  of  making 


!^il 


176 


A  I.  ASA' A 


the  portage,  but  if  this  is  done  a  half-dozen  short  port- 
ages would  have  to  be  made ;  the  last  part  of  the  river  is 
exceedingly  precarious  on  account  of  danger  to  the  boat 
frc:r>.  the  rapid  water  and  rocks  encountered. 

From  where  the  river  is  again  taken  it  is  followed  for 
two  hundred  miles  in  good  current  and  clear  water  into 
Great  Slave  Lake.  Ten  miles  to  the  west  of  this  point 
is  Fort  Resolution.  Then  the  shores  of  Great  Slave 
Lake  are  followed  to  the  point  where  the  Hay  River 
empties  into  it,  a  distance  of  ninety  miles.  From  Hay 
River  to  the  head  of  the  Mackenzie  River,  a  distance  of 
twenty  miles,  the  shores  are  marked  by  huge  boulders 
and  rocks,  making  navigation  exceedingly  dangerous,  and 
should  never  be  attempted  when  the  wind  is  blowing 
from  any  direction  but  east. 

Mackenzie  River  should  be  entered  by  what  is  known 
as  the  South  Channel,  following  the  southern  shore  until 
numerous  small  islands  are  passed.  From  the  head  of 
Mackenzie  River  to  Fort  Providence  is  a  ilistance  of 
eighty  miles,  and  from  here  to  F'ort  Simpson  is  one  hun- 
dred and  sixty  miles.  Continuing  down  the  river,  it  is 
one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  to  Fort  Wrigley,  and  from 
Fort  VVriglcy  to  Fort  Norman,  the  next  post,  is  one 
hundred  and  eighty-four  miles,  and  one  hundred  ami 
eighty  miles  farther  on  is  Fort  Good  Hope. 

Two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  down  the  river  the  Red 
River  joins  its  waters  with  the  Mackenzie.  Thirty  miles 
from  Red  River  a  small  branch  of  Peel  River  empties 
into  the  Mackenzie.  This  river  is  ascended  twenty  miles 
where  it  joins  the  main  brunch  of  the  Peel  near  l*"ort  Mr- 
Pherson.     The  Peel  River  is  crossed  at  this  point,  and 


-11 


ROUTES   TO    THE   INTERIOR 


m 


the  Rat  River  is  ascended  for  thirty  miles,  where  a  port- 
age of  one  mile  is  made,  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Porcu- 
pine River,  which  is  followed  to  its  junction  with  the 
Yukon  River,  from  which  point  the  mining  camps  cither 
up  or  down  the  Yukon  are  reached. 

Another  way  to  reach  the  Yukon  River  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  is  by  following  the  eastern 
branch  of  the  Porcupine,  whose  headwaters  rise  near  the 
source  of  Coal  Creek,  which  flows  into  the  Yukon  near 
Fort  Cudahy.  The  portage  between  these  two  streams 
is  about  eight  miles,  but  the  country  is  too  rough  to  ever 
become  a  popular  route. 

A  third  route  from  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  River 
to  the  mines  of  the  interior  is  by  ascending  the  Peel 
River  to  its  source,  and  then  across  the  divide  to  the 
headwaters  of  Stewart  River.  This  is  thought  to  be  a 
good  route,  but  it  is  doubtful  if  any  reliable  information 
has  been  received  concerning  it. 


)  r 


I       Q 


ii  ili 


CHAPTER  XIII 

THE    VUKON   GOLD-FIELDS 

GOLD  was  first  discovered  in  paying  quantities  in  the 
Yukon  basin  in  l88i.  In  that  year  a  party  of  four 
miners  crossed  the  range  and  descended  the  Lewes  River 
as  far  as  the  Big  Salmon  River,  which  they  ascended  a 
distance  of  two  hundred  miles.  Gold  was  found  on  all 
the  bars  of  the  Hig  Salmon,  many  of  which  paid  well. 
In  the  ne.xt  three  or  four  years  some  mining  was  done  on 
the  Pelly  and  Hootalinciua  Rivers,  and  in  i88C,  gold  in 
considerable  quantities  was  found  at  Cassiar  bar  on  the 
Lewes  River.  The  richest  claims  located  in  the  Yukon 
country  up  to  that  date  yielded  as  high  as  one  hundred 
dollars  per  day  to  each  man. 

As  early  as  i860  men  in  the  employ  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company  are  reported  to  have  found  gold  in  the 
Yukon  basin.  Professor  Davidson  credits  George  Holt 
as  being  the  first  white  man  to  cross  ae  Coast  Range.  A 
confusion  e.xists  as  to  the  time  of  Holt's  journey,  the 
dates  being  variously  given  as  1872,  1S74.  anil  1878. 

Holt  went  down  the  chain  of  lakes  to  Lake  Marsh 
and  then  followed  an  Indian  trail  to  the  Hootalinfjui 
River,  where,  he  reported  upon  his  return,  he  had  fouiui 
coarse  gold.      No  coarse  gold,  however,  has  since  been 

«78 


Ull.JIWS.i       ■.       ■    ■■ll««||K>^, 


1, 

h  I' J 


ies  in  the 
;y  of  four 
/es  River 
icenclcd  a 
ind  on  all 
laid  well. 
i  done  on 
5,  gold  in 
>ar  on  the 
he  Yukon 
;  hundred 

s  Hudson 
aid  in  the 
off^e  Holt 
^an^e.  A 
irney,  the 
1878. 

ike  Marsh 
ootalimiu.i 
had  founii 
since  been 


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CRKKK  aOLD-*WL0S. 


Ji":  ' 


AMERICAN  AND  MISSION  CREEK  QOUO-FIELDS. 


a 


rt 


THE   YUKOX  GOLD-FIELDS 


1/9 


found  on  that  river,  but  the  bars  yield  hirge  quantities  of 
flour  gold.  In  1880,  Edward  Bean  led  a  party  of  twenty- 
five  men  from  Sitka  to  the  Hootalinqua  River,  but  met 
with  indifferent  success.  Other  parties  also  crossed  the 
pass  during  the  same  year. 

The  Stewart  River  country  is  the  most  promising  of 
the  upper  Yukon.  The  river  is  navigable  for  many 
miles,  and  has  tributaries  that  are  large  enough  to  deserve 
the  name  of  rivers.  It  drains  a  country  that  is  an  empire 
in  itself.  The  Stewart  River  is  estimated  at  about  eight 
hundred  miles  in  length,  and  gold  is  found  on  all  its  bars. 
One  of  them  has  been  known  to  produce  $4000  in  a  single 
season.  For  more  than  ten  years  prospecting  in  a  desul- 
tory manner  has  been  carried  on  here,  but  da  yet  no  great 
strike  has  been  reported. 

The  Klondike  miners,  knowing  that  it  is  just  over  the 
first  great  divide  from  their  own  stream,  have  the  greatest 
faith  in  the  future  of  Stewart  River. 

The  season  of  1898  witnessed  a  greater  emigration  to 
that  section  than  ever  before.  Many  miners,  going  into 
the  interior,  stopped  there  rather  than  take  their  chances 
in  the  Klondike,  and  many  reports  of  rich  discoveries 
have  been  m.ade. 

There  seems  always  to  have  been  a  combination  of  cir- 
cumstances arising  against  thorough  prospecting  in  the 
Stewart  River  country  since  gold  was  first  discovered  on 
that  stream.  In  the  early  days  men  left  diggings  there 
that  were  paying  well  for  more  promising  claims  on  Forty 
Mile.  The  next  excitement  which  turned  the  attention 
of  miners  to  Stewart  River  was  nijjped  in  the  bud  when 
Birch  Creek  began  to  hold   up  alluring  prospects,  and 


\'i\ 


\  *    1 


i8o 


AI.ASA'A 


1 1  h 


a^ain  the  stampede  was  diverted.  The  next  move  to- 
wards Stewart  River  was  hardly  begun,  when  the  wonders 
of  the  Klondike  carried  men  off  their  feet  and  landed 
them  in  the  opposite  direction ;  and  prospecting  the  past 
season  had  hardly  begun  in  earnest,  when  the  excitement 
attending  rich  discoveries  in  Lake  Atlin  district  again 
diverted  attention  from  Stewart  River,  and  lost  to  this 
section  many  miners  who  had  found  good  prospects. 

Most  of  the  old  miners  of  the  interior  have  faith  in  the 
Stewart  River  country,  and  it  is  a  common  sentiment 
among  this  class  that  this  is  the  coming  camp.  Many 
believe  that  not  only  will  rich  placer  diggings  be  found 
here,  but  also  extensive  deposits  of  ore  are  predicted,  and 
not  a  few  can  be  found  who  believe  that  the  mother 
lode  is  yet  to  be  unearthed  somewhere  along  the  valley 
of  the  Stewart. 

On  the  banks  of  the  river  v  ill  be  found  a  growth  of 
timber  suitable  for  use  in  mining,  building  cabins,  and 
for  fuel.  Here,  too,  are  tracts  of  open  ground  whicli 
may  be  adapted  to  agriculture.  Moose,  cariboo,  and 
bear  abound  in  the  adjacent  woods  and  fish  stock  the 
streams. 

The  important  discoveries  made  in  the  great  Yukon 
basin  previous  to  that  of  the  Klondike  were,  Forty  Mile, 
Sixty  Mile,  Miller,  Glacier,  and  Birch  Creeks,  and  Kn- 
yukuk  River.  Forty  Mile  and  Sixty  Mile  Creeks  How 
into  the  Yukon  from  the  west,  having  their  source  in  tlie 
Ratzel  Mountains,  a  low  intermediate  range  runiiin., 
nearly  parallel  to  the  Yukon  and  forming  the  divide  1)_- 
tween  the  Yukon  and  Tanana  Rivers.  The  streams  put- 
ting into  the  Tanana  on  the  west  side  of  this  range  have 


>■■! 


THE  YUKOX  GOLD.FlEl.DS 


i8l 


i, 


not  yet  been  cxplnn-il ;  hut  lower  down,  alonj;  the  banks 
of  the  Tanuna,  some  prospectinjj  has  been  done  and  gold 
in  paying  (juantities  has  been  found. 

Miller  Creek,  for  several  years  one  of  the  richest  dis- 
covered in  the  interior,  is  a  tributary  of  Sixty  Mile  Creek, 
entering  it  about  seventy  miles  from  its  mouth.  Miller 
Creek  is  about  seven  miles  long,  and  upwards  of  fifty 
mining  claims  have  been  located  there,  but  few  of  them 
have,  as  yet,  been  developed  to  any  considerable  extent. 
Miners  prospected  this  creek  at  various  times  during  pre- 
ceding years,  each  time  abandoning  it  because  the  vast 
accumulations  of  drift  found  everywhere  made  it  un- 
profitable to  work.  But  in  1S92,  prospecting  again  be- 
gan, and  many  rich  strikes  were  made,  one  claim  alone 
yielding  $37,000  of  tlic  yellow  metal,  and  one  clean-up 
being  reported  of  about  eleven  hundred  ounces. 

Glacier  Creek  is  another  branch  of  Sixty  Mile  Creek, 
running  nearly  parallel  with  Miller  Creek,  and  about  three 
miles  distant.  Claims  prospected  on  this  creek  promise 
to  equal  in  richness  those  of  Miller  Creek,  for  rich  finds 
have  been  reported  on  abandoned  claims.  The  whole 
creek  has  been  located,  the  first  claims  being  staked  out 
ill  the  summer  of  1S94.  The  gulch  is  nine  miles  in 
length,  and  varies  in  width  from  one  and  one-half  miles 
at  its  mouth  to  six  feet  at  the  head.  The  jirospects  on 
Glacier  Creek  are  excellent,  the  dirt  yielding  from  a  few 
cents  to  four  dollars  to  the  pan. 

Another  creek,  about  three  miles  distant  from  Miller 
Creek,  is  named  Bed- Rock,  but  as  yet  has  not  proved 
very  promising  as  a  mining  location. 

Indian  River  flows  into  the  Yukon  about  thirt\-  miles 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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ALAS/CA 


below  Sixty  Mile  Creek.  Here  rich  gold  discoveries  were 
reported  in  1894,  and  since  then  it  has  attracted  increased 
attention.  The  stream  is  rapid  and  shallow,  but  pro- 
spectors have  ascended  it  a  distance  of  over  '^ne  hundred 
miles. 

Shortly  after  the  rich  discoveries  on  the  Klondike, 
prospecting  was  commenced  on  Indian  River,  and  Sul- 
phur and  Dominion  Creeks,  both  tributaries,  proved  to 
be  very  rich.  This  led  to  thorough  prospecting  on  the 
main  creek  and  all  its  branches,  and  the  indications  are 
that  they  will  prove  as  rich  as  some  of  the  tributaries  of 
the  Klondike.  A  trail  over  the  hills  from  the  Klondike 
connects  with  Indian  River  a  few  miles  above  its  mouth. 

Forty  Mile  Creek,  previous  to  the  Klondike  discovery, 
was  more  familiarly  known  to  the  miners  of  Alaska  and 
to  the  people  at  large  than  any  other  locality  in  the 
Territory.  Its  bars  have  yielded  large  returns,  but  these 
diggings  are  practically  abandoned  for  the  gulches  and 
ravines  which  furnish  coarse  gold.  It  is  about  two  hun- 
dred miles  long,  and  has  numerous  tributaries.  Entering 
the  Yukon  from  the  west,  it  drains  the  country  lying  be- 
tween the  Yukon  and  Tanana  Rivers.  It  was  not  dis- 
covered until  1887  "^"^^  ^^''i^  ^he  scene  of  the  first  real 
excitement  in  the  valley  of  the  Yukon.  Its  mouth  is 
just  over  the  line  in  Canadian  territory  in  about  sixty- 
four  degrees  north  latitude,  and  about  one  hundred  and 
forty-one  degrees  west  longitude.  The  first  news  of  gold 
being  found  there  was  brought  to  the  coast  by  a  man 
named  Tom  Williams,  who  was  the  bearer  of  letters  to 
Jack  McQuestion,  of  the  Alaska  Commercial  Company's 
trading  post  at  Forty  Mile,  who  was  then  in  San  Fran- 


:nes  were 
increased 
but  pro- 
hundred 

Clondike, 

and  Sul- 

)roved  to 

ig  on  the 

itions  are 

utaries  of 

Klondike 

ts  mouth. 

liscovery, 

laska  and 

ty  in   the 

but  these 

Iches  and 

two  hun- 

Entering 

lying  be- 

s  not  dis- 

first  real 

mouth  is 

3ut  sixty- 

ndred  and 

,vs  of  gold 

by  a  man 

letters  to 

Company's 

San  Fran- 


REEK  GOLD-FIELDS. 


■■I 


FORTY  MILE  CREEK  GOLD-FIELDS. 


rww 


r  i 


^      t  ! 


■^ 


C^ 


C^  'L 


I  !»'.' 


Kr- 


'■V*" 


:tj|. 


THE   YUKOX  COLD-FIELDS 


183 


CISCO.  The  letters  advised  him  of  the  discovery,  and 
instructed  him  to  ship  in  a  larger  supply  of  provisions  in 
anticipation  of  a  rush  to  the  new  Eldorado  the  following 
spring.  Williams  was  accompanied  by  an  Indian  boy 
with  a  dog  team  and  sled.  They  haa  an  extremely  rough 
trip  up  the  river.  It  was  in  the  dead  of  winter  and  the 
cold  was  intense.  Before  reaching  Lake  Bennett  the 
dogs  all  died  from  cold  and  exhaustion.  At  the  summit 
of  Chilkoot  Pass  a  fearful  storm  arose  and  the  struggling 
travellers  were  compelled  to  hastily  build  a  snow  hut  in 
which  they  remained  ten  days,  living  on  a  little  dry  flour, 
the  only  thing  left  them  in  the  way  of  provisions.  Both 
men  were  badly  frost-bitten,  and  upon  attempting  to  re- 
sume the  journey  it  was  found  that  Williams  was  unable 
to  travel.  Nothing  daunted,  the  young  Indian  took  his 
companion  on  his  back  and,  struggling  through  drifts  and 
blinding  snow,  succeeded  in  reaching  Dyea,  sixteen  mile? 
distant.  A  few  days  later  Williams  died,  but  not  before 
he  told  at  Dyea  of  the  strike  at  Forty  Mile  and  of  the 
mail  pouch  containing  letters,  which  was  left  at  the  snow 
hut  at  the  Summit,  where  it  was  afterwards  recovered. 

In  the  following  spring  active  mining  operations  began, 
and  it  is  estimated  that  since  that  time  upwards  of  a  mil- 
lion dollars  in  gold  have  been  taken  out  of  Forty  Mile 
Creek  and  the  small  feeders  running  into  it.  On  Forty 
Mile  nearly  all  of  the  available  rich  ground  has  been 
worked  out,  but  there  are  many  high  bars  along  the 
stream  known  to  be  rich  which  have  not  as  yet.  been 
touched  because  of  the  difficulty  of  getting  water  through 
them,  and  the  frozen  condition  of  the  ground. 

Birch  Creek,  the  scene  of  the  next  strike  and  excite- 


'i*; 


184 


ALASKA 


'i4J' 


I    1   ! 


.  ;:^1 


I  if? 


ment  in  the  Yukon  country,  runs  parallel  with  the  Yukon 
on  the  west  for  over  three  hundred  miles,  and,  as  else- 
where related,  there  is  a  portage  of  only  six  miles  across 
the  country  between  this  and  the  Yukon,  two  hundred 
miles  above  its  confluence  with  that  stream,  so  a  trip  by 
water  from  one  terminal  of  the  portage  to  the  other  in- 
volves a  journey  of  four  hundred  miles.  Here  on  the 
Yukon  side  of  the  gateway  to  the  Birch  Creek  mines  is 
Circle  City,  at  one  time  a  close  rival  of  Forty  Mile  as  the 
metropolis  of  the  Yukon  mines. 

The  ^ws  of  gold  discoveries  on  the  Klondike  in  the 
autumn  of  1896  drew  largely  upon  the  population  of 
Circle  City  and  its  adjoining  creeks.  Miners  abandoned 
claims  that  were  making  them  rich.  Very  few  withstood 
the  panic.  In  the  middle  of  a  terrible  winter  hundreds 
ot  men  drew  their  sledges  over  the  ice  of  the  Yukon  to 
try  the  new  diggings  more  than  three  hundred  miles 
distant,  yet  no  man  perished  in  making  the  journey. 

Here  are  extensive  auriferous  deposits,  and  the  creeks 
and  bars  adjacent  to  Birch  Creek  Lave  been  more  or  less 
thoroughly  prospected,  with  the  result  that  this  section 
still  promises  exceedingly  well. 

One  of  the  principal  tributaries  of  Birch  Creek  is 
Crooked  Creek,  and  from  Circle  City  a  trail  leads  over 
the  hills  to  the  mines  on  Independence  and  Mastodon 
Creeks. 

On  Molymute,  a  branch  of  Birch  Creek,  gold  was  first 
discovered  in  1893,  and  since  that  time  it  has  been  found 
on  tributary  streams.  Birch  Creek  has  been  explored  for 
upwards  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  and  the  entire 
distance  is  filled  with  rapids  and  canyons.     The  Soutli 


le  Yukon 
I,  as  else- 
les  across 

hundred 
a  trip  by 
other  in- 
e  on  the 

mines  is 
ile  as  the 

ke  in  the 

lation   of 

Dandoncd 

vithstood 

hundreds 

Vukon  to 

red  miles 

rney. 

he  creeks 

)re  or  less 

is  section 

Creek  is 
eads  over 
Mastodon 

i  was  first 
;en  found 
plored  for 
the  entire 
'he  South 


w- 


i 


OLD-FIELDS. 


II 

i! 


BIRCH  CREEK  GOLD-FIELDS. 


1» 


i>  t 


it  { 


V 


■ 

1 

i 

SH 

.1     ./ 


■lA-,  c'^n^iK 


TlfF.    YUKOX   GOLD-FIELDS 


185 


Fork  drains  the  country  \\\x\^  at  the  head  of  Seventy 
Mile  Creek.  Many  claims  were  staked  off  in  1S94  on 
Mastodon,  Independence,  and  other  streams  flowing  into 
Birch  Creek.  These  claims  are  more  easily  worked  than 
elsewhere  on  the  Yukon  and  tributaries,  from  the  fact 
that  bedrock  appears  mucn  nearer  the  surface  and  water 
is  more  easily  obtained.  Scnic  sixty  miles  below  Birch 
Creek  portage,  Preach  Cre.k  joins  the  main  stream. 
This  creek  is  about  one  hundred  aad  twenty  miles  long. 
It  has  been  prospected  but  lillle  and  not  much  is  known 
of  it  except  that,  as  everywhere  else  in  tne  Yukon  basin, 
gold  is  found.  The  headwaters  of  this  creek  penetrate  a 
countiy  whose  geological  formation  is  \'<:"y  peculiar, 
showing  drift  and  disturbances  which  might  have  been 
caused  by  the  receding  of  waters  ages  ago. 

The  most  recent  discovery  of  gold  yet  reported,  is  that 
of  >.Iunook  Creek  flowing  into  the  Yukon  eleven  hundred 
miles  above  St.  Michaels  and  seven  hundred  miles  down 
the  river  from  Dawson  City.  Munook  Creek  enters  the 
Yukon  from  the  south,  and  is  far  within  the  limits  of 
American  territory.  It  is  reached  by  steamer  via  St. 
Michaels,  or  by  the  overland  route,  and  it  is  estimated 
that  there  are  fifteen  hundred  people  in  the  camps,  the 
main  centre  of  which  is  Rampart  City.  Several  hundred 
people  took  passage  late  in  the  summer  of  1S97  on 
steamers  headed  for  Dawson  City,  but  the  water  being 
low  it  proved  \  npossible  to  pass  the  bars  in  the  vicinity 
of  Fort  Yukon.  The  Munook  discover}-  having  been 
made  in  the  meantime,  many  of  the  passengers  took  up 
their  quarters  here  and  are  engaged  in  prospecting  and 
winter  mining. 


i86 


ALASKA 


..I  I* 


iS  I 


sh 


n 


The  reports  sent  out  from  Munook  are  very  flattering, 
but  the  spring  clean-up  alone  can  tell  of  the  richness  of 
the  diggings.  The  country  promises  to  rival  the  Klon- 
dike, but  whether  or  not  these  expectations  will  be  real- 
ised cannot  be  determined  at  this  time. 

A  remarkable  feature  that  encourages  the  search  for 
Munook  gold  is  the  high  quality  of  the  metal  found  there. 
The  nuggets  are  heavier,  darker  in  colour,  and  freer  from 
foreign  substance  than  the  Klondike  gold.  It  assays  the 
remarkably  high  price  of  $18.97  per  ounce,  which  is  about 
$2.50  higher  than  Klondike  gold.  One  lot  of  samples 
brought  down  by  James  Dietrich,  a  mining  expert,  con- 
tained nuggets  to  the  amount  of  $1200,  gathered  from 
each  of  the  different  creeks  flowing  into  the  Munook. 
It  could  be  readily  observed  that  each  was  slightly  dif- 
ferent from  the  other  in  shade  of  colouring.  This  was  a 
reminder  of  the  old  California  days  when  gold-buyers 
always  knew  by  the  colour  of  the  gold  from  which  creek 
it  came.  Dark-coloured  gold  is  said  by  old  miners  to 
indicate  permanency  of  diggings. 

The  Munook,  like  the  Klondike,  will  prove  to  be 
largely  winter  diggings  from  the  fact  that  the  prevalence 
of  high  water  in  summer  prevents  active  mining.  The 
surface  of  the  ground  in  the  Munook  region  is  thickly 
covered  with  the  ever  present  Alaskan  moss. 

The  tributaries  of  Munook  Creek  where  claims  ar.- 
staked  are  named  Little  Miller,  Hunter,  Little  Munook, 
Gold,  Hoosier,  Hamilton,  Ruby,  Slate,  Chapman,  anc 
Granite. 

Six  years  ago  some  rich  gold  discoveries  were  made  011 
the   Koyukuk  River  which  were  prospected  vigorously 


flattering, 


ichness  of 

the  Klon- 

ill  be  real- 

search  for 

und  there. 

f 

freer  from 

1 1 

1. 

assays  the 

t.  ^ 

;h  is  about 

1 

)f  samples 

pert,  con- 

,  f 

ered   from 

Munook. 

ightly  dif- 

1 

rhis  was  a 

old-buyers 

r  ..,-  .  )0i     , 

hich  creek- 

miners  to 

•'    '   '  .      t 

ove  to  be 

5-:   ■,'.. 

prevalence 

ing.     The 

h 

is  thickly 

claims  arc 

s  Munook, 

•h 

3man,  and 

f '■■■ ':_ 

pn?v.-'^i''. 

•e  made  on 

^.t^l.;.r::: 

vigorously 

'  -''iiV:::-. 

■Mi 


MUNOOK  CR£tK  OOLD-HtLDS. 


THE   YUKON  GOLD-FIELDS 


is; 


the  following  year  with  good  results.  A  number  of 
creeks,  namely,  North  Fork,  Wild  Creek,  South  Fork, 
and  Fish  Creek  have  been  prospected  with  fairly  good 
success. 

During  the  summer  of  1898  many  miners  who  had 
started  up  the  Yukon  for  the  Klondike  left  this  stream  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Koyukuk  and  distributed  themselves 
along  the  river  and  its  branches  for  over  three  hundred 
miles.  Over  twenty  river  boats  ascended  the  Koyukuk, 
and  seven  dredging  machines  operated  along  its  banks 
and  on  the  bars,  it  is  said,  with  splendid  results.  A 
town  named  Peavy  was  located  just  above  the  Arctic 
circle,  and  several  miners  are  wintering  in  this  vicinity 
and  prospecting  the  country  vigorously.  A  Jand  office 
was  established  at  Peavy  in  March  last. 

While  most  flattering  reports  are  in  circulation  con- 
cerning the  Koyukuk  River  country,  the  true  facts  from 
this  region  will  not  be  known  until  navigation  opens  the 
coming  summer. 

Below  the  Koyukuk  River,  the  only  streams  of  any 
importance  that  empty  into  the  Yukon  are  the  Inoko, 
coming  in  from  the  south,  and  the  Anvik  from  the  north 
about  thirty  miles  farther  down.  Along  the  Anvik  dis- 
coveries were  announced  early  last  spring,  and  consider- 
able excitement  was  occasioned  by  the  reports  from  that 
region,  but  the  attitude  of  the  military  stationed  at  St. 
Michaels,  who  discouraged  the  staking  off  of  the  claims 
on  the  ground  that  it  was  within  the  military  reservation, 
prevented  the  investigation  which  would  otherwise  have 
been  made. 

The  difference  in  climate  between  the  coast  country 


^1^ 


a  ■  ■'i&!L 


I  t 


U. 


H 


188 


ALASKA 


and  that  of  the  interior  is  very  marked.  All  along  tlie 
Kuskoquim  River,  during  the  summer  months,  the:-  is 
an  excessive  fall  of  rain,  while  in  the  interior  it  is  very- 
dry.  The  frozen  condition  of  the  ground,  which  extends 
to  a  depth  of  many  feet  below  the  surface,  makes  placer 
mining  everywhere  in  the  interior  of  Alaska  very  difficult. 
A  layer  of  moss,  often  to  the  depth  of  eighteen  inches, 
covers  the  ground,  and  the  hot  rays  of  the  sun  during 
the  long  days  of  summer  are  not  able  to  penetrate  suffi- 
ciently to  thaw  the  ground  underneath.  It  is  only  where 
the  moss  is  stripped  and  the  bare  surface  is  reached  by 
the  sun's  rays  that  it  thaws  to  any  extent.  This  method 
is  often  resorted  to  by  miners  in  order  to  get  the  ground 
in  readiness  for  their  sluicing  work.  The  ice  seldom 
passes  out  of  the  Yukon  before  the  first  or  middle  of 
June.  As  early  as  the  middle  of  September  the  sun  has 
travelled  so  far  south  that  the  air  is  chilly,  and  in  a  few- 
days  ice  forms,  so  that  further  working  of  the  ground  in 
this  manner  must  be  abandoned  until  the  following  year. 
It  must  be  remembered,  however,  that  although  one 
cannot  depend  upon  much  more  than  two  months  for 
summer  work,  yet,  from  about  the  middle  of  June  until 
the  first  of  August,  it  is  daylight,  the  sun  shining  almost 
continually.  Thus,  what  is  lost  in  the  length  of  the 
season  is,  in  a  measure,  made  up  in  the  length  of  the 
day.  If  a  man  can  stand  the  severe  physical  strain,  he 
can  put  in  many  more  hours  of  work  here  than  in  placer 
mining  camps  in  other  parts  of  the  country;  and  if  his 
claim  proves  sufficiently  rich  to  enable  him  to  pay  for 
hired  help,  darkness  never  interferes  with  work,  for  by 
running  two  or  three  shifts  each  day,  he  can  work  his 


ground 


THE   YUKON  GOLD-FIELDS 


189 


mine,  and  have  daylight  to  do  it  in,  nearly  the  entire 
season. 

The  creeks  described  in  this  chapter,  as  a  general  thing 
may  be  worked  in  winter  as  well  as  in  summer.  It  was 
the  original  custom  to  work  them  in  the  summer  only, 
and  for  the  miners  to  either  return  to  civilisation  in  the 
fall  or  while  away  the  long  months  of  winter  in  visiting 
neighbours,  making  trips  to  native  settlements,  or  in 
hunting  and  trapping.  But  the  happy  thought  came  to 
some  one  to  make  fires  upon  the  ground,  thus  thawing 
and  removing  the  earth  until  bedrock  was  reached ;  then 
to  tunnel  and  drift,  lifting  the  dirt  to  the  surface,  where 
it  was  washed  out  in  the  spring.  This  gave  a  new  im- 
petus to  Yukon  placer  mining,  and  now  some  creeks  are 
worked  only  in  the  winter,  which,  on  account  of  high 
waters  in  summer  could  not  be  operated.  Such  was  the 
origin  of  the  now  common  designation  of  "  winter  dig- 
or 


gings 


summer  diggings." 


The  accompanying  cut  represents  the  exact  size  of  a 
nugget  taken  out  by  the  winter  process  of  mining.  It 
was  found  in  Franklyn  Gulch,  March  26,  1894,  by  Con- 
rad Dahl.  It  weighed  exactly  thirty  ounces  before,  and 
twenty-nine  and  forty-five  one-hundredths  ounces  after, 
being  melted  at  the  Mint  in  San  Francisco.  Dahl  had 
prospected  in  the  vicinity  the  summer  before,  and  in  the 
winter  thawed  the  ground  by  burning  wood  on  top,  and 
continued  the  process  until  he  reached  bedrock,  hauled 
the  dirt  out,  and  washed  it  afterwards.  The  nugget 
brought  $491.45. 

The  next  few  years  will  probably  determine  whether 
or  not  there  are  any  extensive  deposits  of  gold  quartz  in 


m 


IQO 


A  LA  SAT  A 


i; 


the  interior  of  Alaska.  Until  the  past  season  most  of 
those  who  have  gone  there  have  been  men  of  very  limited 
means,  and  the  difficulty  of  getting  supplies  in  from  the 
coast  has  been  so  great  that  they  were  taxed  to  the 
utmost  to  land  at  the  scene  of  their  labours  with  food 
sufficient  to  last  them  for  a  single  season.  On  this 
account  little  prospecting  for  quartz  has  been  done. 


J  INCH  THICK 


li  INCHES  THICK. 


A  YUKON  NUQQET. 

SIZE  AND  SHAPE. 


Within  the  past  year,  however,  companies  have  been 
formed  and  an  effort  made  to  test  the  quartz-bearing 
capacity  of  this  country.  It  is  fair  to  suppose  when  gold 
is  found  upon  every  stream  or  creek,  that  somewhere  in 
the  mountains  there  must  be  rich  quartz  ledges.  There 
are  instances,  and  not  a  few,  where  men,  in  working  or 
prospecting  placer  mines,  have  come  across  boulders 
or  rocks  containing  gold,  but,  for  reasons  stated  above, 
they  were  not  able  to  expend  the  labour  necessary  to 
follow  up  the  "  float." 


THE   YUKON  GOLD-FIELDS 


191 


li  INCHES  THICK. 


Those  who  have  not  had  personal  experience  in  placer 
mining  cannot  realise  the  fascination  which  one  feels 
when  engaged  in  this  occupation.  It  is  a  healthful, 
hopeful,  rugged,  and  independent  life.  The  vocation  of 
the  placer  miner  often  carries  him  alone  into  the  moun- 
tain fastnesses,  with  pick,  shovel,  and  pan,  far  away  from 
every  scene  of  civilisation.  He  feels  a  pride  in  picking 
out  the  yellow  fragments,  which  he  has  separated  from 
the  dirt  by  dextrous  dipping,  gradually  letting  the  gravel 
run  out  with  the  water,  while  the  yellow  deposit  settles 
around  the  edge  and  gravitates  to  the  bottom  of  the  pan. 
Before  venturing  upon  the  life,  he  naturally  dreads  the 
separation  from  home  and  friends.  He  realises  that  he 
is  to  be  deprived  of  the  pleasures  of  society ;  perhaps 
he  is  leaving  a  loving  wife  and  children  behind,  but  when 
once  in  the  field,  these  recollections  crowd  him  on  to 
new  life  and  spur  him  to  renewed  efforts.  And  when, 
perhaps,  he  has  secared  his  treasure,  life  seems  to  open 
up  through  a  vista  of  years  a  new  and  happy  existence. 
In  no  place  on  earth  can  you  find  such  loyalty  to  friends, 
such  honour  among  men,  as  in  the  camp  of  the  miner. 
They  are  the  architects  of  their  own  laws  and  execution- 
ers as  well.  Their  lives  develop  all  the  characteristics 
that  go  to  make  up  a  strong  nature,  and  the  dangers  with 
which  they  come  in  contact  school  them  to  bear  their 
burdens  calmly  and  to  meet  peril  or  death,  if  need  be, 
with  fortitude. 


Ifen^ 


l!.' 


1  : 


!!-!: 


K  i 


CHAPTER  XIV 


THE    KLONDIKE 


FOR  many  years,  the  old  miners  who  were  located  on 
various  tributaries  of  the  Yukon  declared  that  no 
pay-dirt  existed  above  Forty  Mile  Creek,  This  was  the 
prevalent  and  accepted  theory.  With  this  idea  in  mind, 
which  may  be  almost  pronounced  a  superstition,  the 
streams  entering  the  Yukon  from  the  eastward  were 
shunned  by  prospectors.  What  is  now  the  most  famous 
gold-bearing  stream  in  the  world  was  known  only  as  a 
great  creek  for  salmon.  Some  gold  is  reported  to  have 
been  taken  out  from  the  Klondike  as  early  as  1887,  but 
not  sufficient  in  quantity  to  attract  special  attention,  as 
the  presence  of  gold  on  streams  in  that  region  generally 
goes  without  saying. 

There  seems  to  be  a  tendency  to  shift  the  glory  of  the 
first  find  in  the  Klondike.  One  story  has  it  that  a  cer- 
tain "  tenderfoot,"  who  did  not  know  that  old  miners 
never  dig  through  clay  in  searching  for  gold,  dug  on 
through,  and  by  his  ignorance  made  the  great  Klondike 
discovery. 

The  real  discoverer,  however,  according  to  a  number 
of  authorities,  among  whom  is  William  Ogilvie,  chief  of 
the  Canadian  boundary  surveyors,  was  J.  W.  Carmach. 

If)2 


THE  KLONDIKE 


193 


Nine  years  previous  to  the  discovery,  Carmach  married  a 
squaw.  He  linally  learned  from  his  wife's  people  a  long- 
guarded  secret,  that  large  deposits  of  gold  were  to  be 
found  in  that  region.  With  two  Indians  he  went  on  a 
prospecting  tour.  In  eight  days'  time,  with  tlie  most 
crude  methods,  he  had  the  phenomenal  success  of  secur- 
ing $1420  in  coarse  gold.  He  said  he  could  have  accom- 
plished this  in  one-fourth  of  the  time  with  proper  facilities. 
This  was  on  what  is  now  known  as  Bonanza  Creek. 

When  the  information  of  Carmach's  discovery  reached 
Circle  City  and  Forty  Mile,  many  were  incredulous,  but 
a  great  stampede  ensued.  In  a  very  short  time  every 
available  claim  on  the  creek  was  staked  off.  Prospecting 
o..  other  gulches  began,  and  soon  F.  W.  Cobb  and  Frank 
Phiscator,  both  "  tenderfeet,"  succeeded  in  making  good 
strikes  on  a  tributary  of  Bonanza  Creek,  which  they 
named  Eldorado  Creek. 

During  the  autumn  months  of  1896  the  prospecting 
and  locating  of  claims  continued.  The  season  was  well 
on,  but  the  eager  miners  made  quick  arrangements  for 
the  winter'  work.  By  the  following  spring,  good  finds 
had  been  made  on  Hunker,  Bear,  Adams,  and  Gold  Bot- 
tom Creeks,  and  on  Skookum  Gulch,  all  tributaries  and 
sub-tributaries  of  the  Klondike.  It  is  the  present  opinion 
of  miners,  based  on  results  thus  far  obtained,  that  Eldo- 
rado Creek  is  the  richest  of  the  lot,  and  that  Hunker  is  a 
close  second.  Many  miners  are  anxiously  awaiting  the 
coming  clean-up  on  "  Too  Much  Gold  "  Cr'-ek.  This  is 
a  significant  name  given  by  the  Indians  to  a  creek  far  up 
the  Klondike.  The  miners,  in  speaking  of  it,  always  add 
drily  that  gold  is  so  plentiful  there  that  gravel  should  be 


13 


hi 


I 


i.:?il 


I  \ 


n- 


n 


i 


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l!'  I 


194 


ALASKA 


mixed  with  it  to  make  good  sluicing.  Little  gold  has 
yet  been  found  in  the  valley  of  the  Klondike  River  itself, 
it  being  wholly  confined  thus  far  to  the  tributary  creeks. 

The  spring  clean-up  of  1897.  following  the  first  winter's 
digging  and  burning,  was  sufficient  to  startle  the  whole 
world  as  a  gold  discovery  had  never  before  done.  Many 
of  the  owners  of  claims  would  not  have  had  the  means  to 
pay  for  labour  had  they  not  panned  out  gold  for  the  pur- 
pose as  the  work  proceeded.  Partly  in  this  manner  it 
became  known  that  the  Kl  dike  discovery  was  a  phe- 
nomenal one,  for  single  p,  ;  of  earth  yielded  su.as  in 
coarse  gold  ranging  as  high  as  $800,  and  many  gave  from 
$100  to  $350  to  the  pan.  The  miners  easily  paid  th 
wages  Oi  their  men  and  other  expenses  in  this  manner, 
but  the  sluice-boxes  in  the  spring  made  many  of  them 
wealthy  men. 

The  first  steamer  from  St.  Michaels  which  reached 
Seattle  in  July,  1897,  brought  upwards  of  a  ton  of  gold, 
and  its  various  owners  aboard  possessed  sums  rangini; 
from  $20,CX'D  to  Si  15,000  each.  Very  few  of  the  miners 
brought  out  the  full  amount  of  their  riches,  as  those 
retaining  their  claims  had  operated  them  but  one  short 
season.  Some  left  portions  of  thei;  gold  for  new  invest- 
ments in  purchasable  claims,  and  others  d-^posited  lar^e 
sums  with  the  commercial  companies  because  it  was 
inconvenient  to  handle  en  route. 

These  figures,  large  as  they  seem,  were  insignificant 
in  comparison  with  the  output  of  last  season.  The 
first  winter  the  miners  were  not  supplied  with  wood  for 
thawing  the  ground,  lumber  for  building  sluice-boxes, 
or  logs  for   cabins.      They  were   largely  provided  with 


jold  has 
er  itself, 
^  creeks. 

winter's 
[le  whole 
.  Many 
means  to 

the  pur- 
lanner  it 
is  a  phe- 

su.iis  in 
;ave  from 

paid  tb 
i  manner, 
T  of  them 

1  reached 
n  of  gold, 
IS  ranging 
:he  miners 
,  as  those 
one  short 
ew  invest- 
sited  large 
ase  it  was 

isignilicant 
Lson.  The 
h  wood  for 
uice-boxes, 
(vided  with 


.».t£i 


INDIAN      c^ff 


KLONDIKE  GOLD-FIELDS. 


MB 

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if 

ft 

B 

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iii 


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fi'  I 


THE  KLONDIKE 


195 


these  necessities  during  last  summer,  however,  and  the 
output  of  1898,  based  on  conservative  figures,  reached 
the  sum  of  $6,000,000.  It  is  the  general  opinion  by 
those  in  a  position  to  know,  that  the  wealth  of  the  dig- 
gings has  not  been  overestimated,  and  that  if  no  new 
discoveries  are  made,  those  already  known  to  exist  can- 
not be  exhausted  in  a  decade  to  come. 

The  sudden  and  vast  riches  thus  bestowed  upon  these 
hardy,  whole-souled  miners  has  developed  a  new  lot  of 
bonanza  kings  as  great  and  as  unique  as  ever  California 
or  Nevada  produced.  The  history  of  the  Mackays,  Fairs, 
and  Comstocks  may  be,  if  not  outdone,  at  least  parallelled 
by  characters  in  the  persons  of  McDonald,  Ladue,  or 
Galvin.  Alexander  McDonald  took  out  $94,000  from 
forty  square  feet  of  ground,  two  feet  in  depth.  He  is 
the  largest  owner  of  claims  in  the  Klondike,  and  has  re- 
cently organized  a  company  in  London,  with  a  capital  of 
$6,000,000,  to  work  his  properties.  Pat  Galvin,  an  old- 
time  Alaskan,  recently  refused  an  offer  of  $1,000,000  in 
cash  for  his  holdings,  and  is  said  to  be  surely  on  the  road 
to  greater  wealth.  He  was  formerly  a  newspaper-man 
of  Helena,  Montana. 

The  detachment  of  North-west  Mounted  Police,  under 
command  of  Inspector  Charles  Constantine,  were  among 
the  first  on  the  ground  when  the  Bonanza  and  Eldorado 
Creek  discoveries  were  made.  The  inspector  allowed  his 
men  to  locate  claims  and  hold  them  by  representatives. 
Numbers  of  the  police  force  suddenly  became  rich  men 
while  still  working  for  the  Government  at  a  dollar  a  day. 
One  of  these  individuals,  who  had  only  expended  the 
$15  for  recording,  and  had  done  nothing  more  than  to 


11      1 


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f  1, 


1  [ 


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( i, 
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J 


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J  li 

>  IS 

^  (I'i 


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196 


ALASKA 


drive  four  stakes  in  the  ground,  soon  sold  out  for  $40,000. 
Others  secured  much  larger  sums.  Some  remained  to 
work  their  claims  when  their  term  of  enlistment  expired, 
but  none  re-enlisted  in  the  service  of  the  Government. 
The  outcome  was  that  entirely  new  men  had  to  be  sent 
in  to  recruit  the  police  force. 

The  first  season  at  the  mines  was  an  eventful  one  for 
the  persons  who  chanced  to  be  there.  Their  eyes  were 
feasted  on  scenes  rough  and  crude,  but  not  to  be  forgot- 
ten in  a  century.  The  most  remarkable  of  these  scenes, 
was  to  enter  a  lowly  cabin,  and  see  clustered  about  under 
a  rough  table,  or  on  a  none-too-cleanly  shelf,  old  coal-oil 
cans,  syrup  cans,  or  buckets  filled  to  the  brim  with  gold 
nuggets  fresh  from  the  soil.  In  one  cabin  would  be  as 
many  as  three  gold-pans  heaped  full  of  nuggets ;  another 
would  have  as  much  more  in  a  heap  on  a  piece  of  canvas 
cloth  spread  out.  And  yet  no  man  with  loaded  rifle 
stood  on  guard,  and  no  thief  was  there  to  carry  the 
treasure  away. 

Mrs.  Lippy  was  at  the  mines  with  her  husband,  and 
she  gathered  about  $6000  in  nuggets  from  the  sides  of 
the  dump-pile  on  their  claim.  Mrs.  Clarence  Berry,  with 
gold-pan,  washed  out  gold  to  a  like  amount,  just  to  pass 
away  the  time. 

The  Klondike  River  has  its  source  back  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains  at  some  unknown  distance.  Its  headwaters 
have  never  been  explored,  much  less  its  upper  tributaries. 
It  is  not  known  that  gold  does  not  exist  in  all  of  them, 
for  the  country  has  been  impenetrable  on  account  of  the 
great  difficulties  in  transporting  supplies,  and  in  travel- 
ling in  a  country  totally  unpopulated  and  unmarked  by 


THE  KLOiXDIKE 


197 


trails  of  any  kind.  While  other  regions  across  on  the 
American  side  are  being  ransacked  for  the  precious  yellow 
metal,  it  is  yet  within  the  most  reasonable  probabilities 
of  the  future  that  the  upper  Klondike  will  become  a 
producer  of  gold  in  quantities  equal  to  those  localities 
already  discovered. 

The  Klondike  River  empties  into  the  Yukon  sixty 
miles  below  Sixty  Mile  Post  and  forty  miles  above  the 
town  of  Forty  Mile.  Dawson  City,  at  the  junction,  was 
founded,  shortly  after  Carmach's  discovery,  by  Joseph 
Ladue,  an  old-timer  who  for  several  years  had  operated 
a  saw-mill  and  store  at  Sixty  Mile  Post.  Ladue  was 
chosen  as  the  first  mayor  of  Dawson  City.  He  still  owns 
much  of  the  town-site  and  large  mining  interests,  all  of 
which  he  estimates  as  worth  $5,000,000.  The  estimated 
population  of  Dawson  and  the  neighbouring  camps  is 
about  17,000. 

The  character  of  the  country  in  the  Klondike  region  is 
mountainous.  It  is  a  difificult  country  to  traverse,  al- 
though not  heavily  timbered.  The  growth  of  timber  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  Dawson  City  is  small  and 
sparse,  but  it  is  larger  and  more  plentiful  at  the  mines 
farther  up  the  stream.  Logs  for  building  at  Dawson  are 
secured  farther  up  the  Yukon  and  floated  down  in  rafts. 
The  great  tax  upon  the  timber  is  for  wood  to  burn  in 
thawing  the  ground  for  winter  mining.  For  this  pur- 
pose, of  course,  brush  and  scrubby  undergrowth  are 
largely  used. 

Some  of  the  best  pay-dirt  on  the  Klondike  is  in  low, 
swampy  ground,  which  in  the  summer  time  cannot  be 
worked  on  account  of  the  v/ater.     Dig  a  prospect  hole 


i 


'■  'I 


198 


ALASKA 


one  foot  in  the  ground,  and  it  will  immediately  fill  with 
water.  So  it  is,  as  far  down  as  the  soil  is  penetrated. 
The  water  pours  in  and  stops  operations  until  ice  forms 
in  the  fall.  For  this  reason  the  Klondike  is  spoken  of  by 
miners  as  "  winter  diggings." 

Having  built  his  sluice-boxes  and  collected  as  much 
wood  as  possible  during  the  summer  months,  the  miner 
begins  in  the  fall  by  clearing  a  few  square  feet  of  the 
surface  of  its  coating  of  frozen  moss,  such  as  is  common 
over  the  whole  of  the  interior  of  Alaska  and  North-west 
Territory.  The  next  step  is  to  kindle  a  fire  upon  the 
surface  thus  divested  of  its  covering,  and  to  heap  on 
wood  for  several  hours.  Then,  the  fire  being  removed, 
the  men  with  shovels  and  picks  quickly  throw  aside  the 
thawed  earth  and  gravel  as  far  down  as  the  "  burning  " 
process  has  reached,  which  is  not  more  than  a  foot  or 
two.  The  earth  removed  is  piled  in  a  heap  safe  from 
spring  freshets,  and  this  is  called  the  "  dump."  This 
process  is  repeated  until  bedrock  is  reached,  which,  in 
the  Klondike,  averages  from  fifteen  to  forty  feet  in 
depth.  From  the  bottom  of  the  shaft  thus  sunk,  drifts 
extend  in  different  directions,  and  the  dirt  is  hoisted  to 
the  surface  and  carefully  piled  on  the  dump.  The  clean- 
up does  not  occur  until  spring.  A  golden  harvest-time 
it  is,  and  the  mines  that  have  been  sold  are  often  paid 
for  at  this  time,  and  debts  for  labour  and  otherwise  are 
settled  for  in  gold  fresh  from  the  ground. 

Prospecting  in  the  Klondike  is  not  an  easy  task.  First, 
the  prospector  must  not  go  too  far  from  his  base  of  sup- 
plies, for  upon  his  back,  with  trails  unbroken,  he  can  carry 
only  enough  food  for  a  few  days  at  most.     In  the  sum- 


il 


THE   KLOXDIKE 


199 


mer-time  with  pick,  shovel,  and  gold-pan  he  washes  for 
colours  in  the  surface  dirt,  but  in  the  winter  he  endeav- 
ours to  sink  a  shaft  to  bedrock.  Locating  a  claim  and 
having  it  recorded  by  the  Gold  Commissioner  is  not  an 
idle  matter,  for  the  reason  that  not  more  than  one  claim 
by  location  in  the  district  may  be  recorded  and  held  by 
the  same  person.  Should  the  claim  prove  worthless,  the 
prospector  has  lost  his  right  to  secure  mining  property  in 
that  district  by  location,  and  to  purchase  is  too  often  be- 
yond his  means.  The  sales  of  whole  properties,  however, 
are  not  so  common  as  those  of  part  interests  in  them,  and 
the  owner  of  a  mining  claim  is  invariably  willing  to  sell 
one-fourth  or  one-half  for  much  less  in  proportion.  Sales 
have  been  made  at  fancy  prices  right  on  the  ground  long 
before  the  outside  world  had  felt  the  fever  of  the  Klon- 
dike excitement. 

Placer  claims,  by  the  Canadian  laws,  are  divided  into 
two  classes:  namely,  gulch  claims  and  bench  claims. 
The  former  are  five  hundred  feet  long  and  the  full  width 
of  the  gulch  in  which  they  are  situated.  Bench  claims 
are  only  one  hundred  feet  square.  This  remarkable  dif- 
ference in  size,  with  the  increase  in  favour  of  the  richer 
class  of  ground,  had  an  interesting  origin.  A  few  years 
ago  miners  operating  on  the  Canadian  side  near  Forty 
Mile  Post  petitioned  the  Government  for  larger  claims 
than  the  then  legal  size  of  one  hundred  feet  square.  It 
was  represented  that  the  miners  were  compelled  to  con- 
vey their  own  supplies  over  a  dangerous  route  of  several 
hundred  miles  at  great  labour  and  expense.  The  Govern- 
ment responded  right  liberally  by  enacting  a  law,  espe- 
cially for  the  Canadian  Yukon  district,  permitting  the 


1    !: 

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200 


ALASKA 


acquiring  of  claims  five  hundred  feet  long  and  the  full 
width  of  the  gulch.  Bench  claims  were  then  unknown, 
but  later,  when  the  land  known  as  benches  along  the 
shores  of  the  Yukon  gold-bearing  creeks  were  found  also 
to  be  valuable,  the  only  dimensions  applicable  to  them 
by  law  was  the  old  measurement  of  one  hundred  feet 
square. 

Many  persons,  whose  information  is  the  best,  have  ex- 
pressed the  opinion  that  quartz  is  plentiful  in  the  adja- 
cent mountains.  The  Klondike  is  by  far  the  richest 
known  mining  region  in  the  whole  of  the  Yukon  valley, 
if  not  of  the  whole  world.  Time  may  prove  that  other 
tributaries  of  the  same  great  river  are  richer,  and  this  is 
possible,  for  many  of  the  streams  have  not  as  yet  been 
prospected. 

The  laws  ot  the  Dominion  of  Canada  allow  all  persons 
of  whatsoever  nationality,  over  eighteen  years  of  age,  to 
lease  mineral  land  in  that  territory,  upon  payment  of  a 
stated  royalty,  but  do  not  authorise  the  purchase  of 
mineral  land. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  laws  of  the  United  States  do 
not  allow  its  own  citizens  or  those  of  any  other  country 
to  lease  mineral  land,  but  a  citizen,  or  one  who  has  de- 
clared his  intention  to  become  such,  may  purchase  mineral 
land  in  Alaska. 


CHAPTER  XV 


SUGGESTIONS  TO   PROSPECTORS 


THOSE  who  intend  to  go  to  Alaska  should  take  suffi- 
cient supplies  for  at  least  one  year.  One  should 
plan  to  spend  at  least  two  years  in  the  country.  The 
first  year  is  usually  consumed  in  prospecting  for  a  claim ; 
the  second  in  burning  off  the  surface  of  moss,  stripp-  ig 
to  pay-streak,  building  ditches,  constructing  sluices,  and 
in  active  mining.  Enough  money  should  be  taken 
to  pay  the  rail  and  steamer  fare,  for  help  in  sledding  or 
packing,  and  for  the  Canadian  customs  duty.  To  meet 
all  the  necessary  expenses  of  the  trip  and  take  one  year's 
outfit,  at  least  S500  is  necessary.  Money  may  be  de- 
posited in  Seattle  banks  and  letters  of  credit  obtained, 
payable  by  the  different  trading  companies  at  their  several 
posts,  the  cost  of  which  is  one  per  cent.  Or  certificates 
of  deposit  may  be  had  and  will  be  taken  anywhe/e  in  the 
northern  countrj-.  Sending  home  for  money  is  a  very 
uncertain  thing  for  several  reasons,  one  of  which  is  the 
unreliable  mail  and  express  service.  The  present  rates  of 
fare  charged  from  Seattle  to  Dyea  and  Skaguay  are  §40 
first-class  and  $25  steerage.  To  Dawson  City  the  fare  is 
usually  about  $1 50. 

Supplies  may  be  secured  at  Seattle.  Juneau,  Skaguay, 

20  r 


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ALASKA 


or  Dyea.  The  merchants  of  either  of  these  towns  are 
adepts  in  the  art  of  packing  supplies  for  the  interior,  and 
know  just  what  is  needed. 

The  quantity  of  supplies  necessary  for  a  journey  over 
the  passes  must  be  determined  by  the  size  of  one's  purse, 
but  in  no  case  should  the  journey  be  attempted  without 
a  supply  sufificient  to  last  at  least  two  months.  Appended 
is  a  list  of  supplies  intended  for  a  one  year's  outfit.  The 
selection  of  the  goods  is  largely  a  matter  of  taste,  but  the 
list  here  given  is  a  comprehensive  one,  intended  to  remind 
the  purchaser  of  everything  he  is  likely  to  need,  some  of 
which  may  be  dispensed  with.  The  hardware  and  camp- 
ing outfit,  with  few  additions,  is  sufficient  for  two  persons. 

None  but  the  very  best  quality  of  goods  should  be 
taken.  Winter  clothing  and  blankets  should  be  wool  or 
fur. 

While  passing  over  the  Summit  in  winter  is  considered 
a  hazardous  undertaking,  yet,  if  attempted  at  the  proper 
time,  it  can  be  made  with  as  much  safety  as  at  any  other 
season  of  the  year.  Do  not  attempt  to  cross  the  Summit 
unless  there  is  every  indication  that  there  will  be  no  wind. 
The  great  trouble  in  making  journeys  by  sledge,  with 
dogs  or  afoot,  is  that  one  undertakes  to  accomplish  too 
much  in  a  given  space  of  time.  He  loads  down  his 
beasts  of  burden  and  travels  too  fast.  The  experienced 
traveller  will  camp  whenever  the  conditions  for  travelling 
are  unfavourable,  and  remain  there  contented,  even 
though  it  be  for  days  at  a  time.  A  good  rule  to  follow 
is,  if  one  cannot  comfortably  make  ten  miles  a  day,  make 
five,  a:  d  if  five  cannot  be  made,  make  one,  and  before  a 
person  is  conscious  of  the  passing  of  time,  he  is  at  the 


SUGGESTIONS   TO  PKOSPECTOKS 


203 


end  of  his  journey.  Remember  this  maxim,  "  Go  Ught 
and  travel  slow." 

While  there  have  been  a  few  instances  of  men  perishing 
from  exposure  in  crossing  the  Summit  in  winter,  yet  a 
great  many  men  have  made  the  journey  successfully,  and 
during  the  past  winter  several  men  travelled  almost  the 
entire  distance  of  the  Yukon  from  the  mouth  to  its  source 
without  a  single  mishap. 

Women  can  make  the  trip  to  the  Yukon  with  as  much 
ease  and  safety  as  men.  The  miner  who  has  the  funds 
to  take  his  wife  with  him  is  thought  by  his  fellows  to  be 
a  very  fortunate  individual.  It  is  surprising  the  amount 
of  endurance  women  exhibit  in  encountering  the  cold, 
hardships,  and  fatigue  in  making  this  journey.  Unless 
the  wife  is  compelled  to  remain  at  home  by  the  care  of 
children  too  small  to  take  along,  we  believe  that  she  will 
be  far  happier  by  the  side  of  her  husband.  The  refining 
influence  of  woman  is  needed  in  the  Yukon,  and  we 
recommend  it. 

Let  us  offer  another  suggestion  to  those  who  are  un- 
familiar with  the  hardships  of  frontier  life  and  with 
travelling  in  a  cold  country.  Learn  from  the  outset  to 
depend  upon  your  own  resources  and  not  upon  partners. 
In  other  words,  "  Every  man  for  himself."  You  will 
be  better  off  in  dollars  and  cents,  and  better  off  as  far  as 
your  personal  feelings  are  concerned,  if  you  depend  upon 
nobody  but  yourself. 

The  very  first  thought  of  one  new  to  travelling  in 
Alaska  is  to  secure  a  partner.  He  thinks  it  necessary  to 
mate  with  some  good  fellow,  but  if  he  will  take  our 
advice,  he  will  go  it  alone  unless  he  knows  his  man  better 


ifj 


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ii  .4  1    .;;>* 


204 


ALASKA 


than  a  brother;  and  if  the  time  ever  comes  during  his 
long  journey  when  he  needs  someone  to  help  him  over  a 
bad  place,  he  will  find  men  similarly  situated  who  will 
want  his  aid  and  will  gladly  aid  him  in  return.  When 
once  in  the  mining  regions,  if  he  needs  a  partner,  then  is 
the  time  to  select  one  who  will  be  congenial  as  well  as 
helpful.  If  he  should  go  with  a  party  of  one  or  more, 
remember  that  nothing  is  gained  by  arguments,  disputes, 
and  quarrels.  The  man  who  "  says  nothing  but  saws 
wood  "  will  get  to  the  Yukon  first  and  easiest,  while  his 
wordy  companions  are  debating  by  the  wayside  or  re- 
turning home  with  their  excuses  for  failure. 

The  sled  of  a  miner  should  be  about  seven  feet  four 
inches  long,  seven  inches  high,  and  sixteen  inches  wide, 
of  strong  but  light  timber,  and  the  runners  shod  either 
with  brass  or  steel,  the  former  being  preferable,  because 
the  sled  will  glide  over  the  snow  more  smoothly  in  in- 
tensely cold  weather,  while  steel  is  inclined  to  grind  and 
lug  very  much.  When  the  weather  is  cold,  if  water  is 
taken  into  the  mouth  and  held  for  a  moment,  then  blown 
over  the  run:  ;;r,  a  coating  will  form  immediately,  and  if 
this  proc*;.>  •  is  repeated  when  it  becomes  a  little  worn  off, 
one  will  be  surprised  to  find  how  much  smoother  and 
easier  the  sled  will  draw.  It  is  preferable  to  use  the 
Eskimo  mode  of  making  sledges  for  Yukon  travelling. 
They  use  no  nails  or  bolts,  binding  the  joints  together 
with  strong  cords.  There  is  much  less  danger  of  break- 
ing if  made  in  this  way,  should  the  sled  be  overturned, 
as  the  joints  will  yield  more  easily  when  thus  tied. 

In  packing,  men  not  accustomed  to  it  \vill  find  that 
fifty  pounds  is  quite  enough  to  carry  for  the  first  few 


SUGGESTWA'S    TO   PKOSPECTOh'S 


20; 


days.  After  that  the  amount  may  be  increased  to  one 
hundred  pounds,  but  one  mile  is  far  enough  to  pack 
before  returning  to  camp  for  another  load.  Then  each 
night  when  you  make  camp  you  are  within  one  mile  at 
the  farthest  of  your  base  of  supplies.  One  cannot  draw 
on  a  sled  more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  day 
after  day.  A  dog  cannot  draw  on  an  average  more  than 
one  hundred  pounds  over  good  roads,  and  the  ordinary 
pac'^-horse  cannot  carry  more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty 
pounds. 

Should  it  ever  become  necessary  to  cache  the  supplies 
for  any  considerable  time,  the  cache  should  be  built  on  a 
scafTold  seven  feet  above  ground.  Compass  bearings  to 
some  prominent  landmark  should  then  be  taken  and  the 
distance  paced  off  and  noted  down. 

Do  not  load  yourself  down  with  firearms  and  ammuni- 
tion. A  shotgun  for  small  game  is  all  that  is  needed. 
If  a  rifle  is  taken,  let  it  be  a  32-calibre  Winchester  or 
Savage  repeating. 

Gold  and  silver  are  bought  and  sold  by  troy  weight : 
24  grains,  i  pennyweight;  20  pennyweights,  i  ounce;  12 
ounces,  i  pound. 

All  nat-i:ial  gold,  that  is,  gold  e.xtracted  from  rocks  or 
washed  from  the  beds  of  streams,  contains  some  alloy, 
generally  silver,  but  sometimes  platinum,  copper,  and 
tellurium.  This  is  the  reason  some  miners  are  dis- 
appointed when  they  sell  their  gold,  as  they  imagine  all 
gold  to  be  pure. 

Bar  diggings  mean  any  part  of  a  river  over  which  th_ 
water  extends  when  the  river  is  in  its  flooded  state,  and 
which  is  not  covered  at  low  water. 


! ,  •  ■    ,: 


I  ■■ 


206 


ALASKA 


Mines  on  benches  are  known  as  bench  diggings. 

A  legal  post  is  a  stake  standing  not  less  than  four  feet 
above  the  ground  and  squared  on  four  sides  for  at  least 
one  foot  from  the  top. 

The  prevailing  law  in  most  districts  in  Alaska  is  that 
only  one  claim  can  be  taken  by  a  single  individual  in  the 
same  district,  but  the  same  miner  may  hold  any  number 
of  claims  by  purchase,  and  any  number  of  miners  may 
unite  to  work  their  claims  in  common. 

Do  not  neglect  providing  yourself  with  at  least  one  pair 
of  eye-shades,  and  if  possible  get  the  kind  used  by  Eski- 
mos. They  are  made  of  wood  with  a  narrow  cut  extend- 
ing across  the  front.  They  give  a  perfect  vision  and  do 
not  heat,  and  when  removed  do  not  leave  the  disagreeable 
sensition  of  darkness  or  blurring,  always  felt  after  re- 
moving goggles. 

Make  your  loads  as  light  and  compact  as  possible.  The 
folding  camp-stove  is  by  fai  the  best. 

If  possible  procure  Eskimo  boots.  They  are  light, 
warm,  and  dry,  and  the  most  comfortable  boot  made. 
Put  grass  or  hay  in  the  bottom  instead  of  cork  or  sheep's- 
wool  soles. 

In  selecting  your  pack,  get  one  having  an  air  space  be- 
tween the  body  and  pack,  which  will  prevent  sweating 
when  in  use. 

Do  not  neglect  mosquito-netting.  Mosquitoes  and 
gnats  often  assume  the  proportions  of  a  sec  ■  in 
Alaska,  and  have  been  known  to  drive  bears  wild.  The 
gnats  swarm  about  and  prey  upon  the  eyes,  causing 
blindness  unless  they  are  protected. 

Never  satisfy  thirst  with  snow  or  ice,  always  melt  first. 


SUGGESTIONS   TO  PKOSPECTORS 


207 


causinii 


If  caught  in  a  snowstorm — Stop.  Better  freeze  where 
you  are  than  wander  about  only  to  succumb  sooner  or 
later  to  fatigue. 

The  reference  made  to  the  articles  of  food  and  list  of 
supplies  given  will  serve  as  a  general  guide,  but  we  would 
advise  those  going  to  Alaska  to  consider  the  subject  of 
food  from  a  scientific  standpoint. 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  you  are  going  to  a 
climate  far  different  from  your  own ;  to  a  country  where 
the  thermometer  may  range  within  twelve  months  from 
90°  F.  above  in  summer  to  70°  F.  below  in  winter,  and 
this  remarkable  range  of  temperature  should  impress  one 
with  the  importance  of  giving  some  heed  to  the  quantity 
and  character  of  foods  necessary  to  preserve  health  in 
this  country. 

You  will  find  in  Alaska  the  natural  conditions  and  sur- 
roundings widely  different  from  those  you  have  been 
accustomed  to,  and  you  will  doubtless  be  surprised  that 
your  system  yearns  for  food  that  you  never  before  have 
been  able  to  eat  and  digest,  such,  for  instance,  as  fatty 
and  oily  foods.  If  you  have  been  unable  to  eat  them 
here,  in  Alaska  they  will  be  found  to  agree  with  you, 
eppecially  during  cold  weather. 

The  demand  upon  the  system  for  heat  and  energy  is 
greater  in  Alaska  than  in  temperate  climes,  and  it  requires 
food  of  such  a  nature  as  will  produce  these  requisites  in 
the  body.  Scientific  analyses,  as  well  as  the  experiments 
carried  on  for  years  in  the  Arctic  regions  by  Grecly. 
Peary,  and  Nansen,  have  shown  that  foods  containing 
fats  and  oils  are  more  nutritious  and  heat-producing  than 
any  other  class  of  food^. 


(>'' 


208 


ALASKA 


1    I 

i      : 


i      i 


It  has  also  been  demonstrated  that  in  a  cold  climate 
one  can  subsist  longer  on  little  food  if  warmly  clad  than 
on  an  abundance  of  food  and  light  raiment. 

In  some  countries  bacon,  hardtack,  and  coffee  might 
answer  as  a  regular  diet,  where  other  foods  could  be 
obtamed  that  would  counteract  the  tendency  to  diseases 
that  these  articles  alone  would  produce,  such  as  scurvy. 
In  a  cold  climate  this  dieadcd  disease  rr-.i-^.L  ^^  guarded 
against,  and  to  do  so  one  must  provi-:  hiv  'f  with  de- 
siccated or  condensed  fruits,  such  as  apples  and  peaches 
or  raisins  and  currants,  none  of  which  are  liable  to  spoil 
in  variable  temperature.  Do  not  provide  yourself  with 
cinned  fruits,  for  they  are  too  bulky  and  occupy  six  times 
the  space  that  other  fruits  containing  the  same  amount  of 
nourishment  do;  the  per  cent,  of  nourishment  in  canned 
vegetables  and  fruits  is  very  slight,  being  composed 
mostly  of  water. 

Do  not  depend  too  much  upon,  and  do  not  use,  baking- 
powder  bread  when  other  can  be  had.  Themi>.  iv^  oi 
pancakes  and  bread  with  baking-powder  is  so  ea"Ih'  luJ 
quickly  done  that,  before  one  knows  it,  hv'  fon,.s  a  ii^.tut 
of  using  it  constantly.  A  steady  diet  of  bak'ng-pov  'er 
bread  is  positively  injurious,  as  the  powder  containr> 
strong  alkalies  which  injure  digestion  and  will  ruin  the 
stomach.  At  every  opportunity  whenever  a  stop  is 
made,  make  a  batch  of  bread  of  yeast  or  sour  dough. 
Even  the  commoi.  mixture  of  flour,  water,  and  salt  is  far 
better  than  baking-powder  bread  as  a  steady  ^;   :, 

If  we  were  to  recommend  but  a  single  articl:  •  f  food, 
among  the  v/hole  list  of  foods  here  given,  a?  a  meat 
ration,  it  would  be  pci   i.iican.      Its  components  are  meat. 


i  , 


SUGGESTIONS   TO  PROSPECTORS 


209 


tallow,  raisins,  currants,  and  sugar.  It  is  compressed 
into  the  smallest  space,  and  a  ten-pound  package  will 
last  several  months.  When  the  package  is  opened,  it 
may  be  used  as  wanted  without  danger  of  spoiling.  A 
small  amount  can  be  dug  out,  emptied  into  the  frying- 
pan  and  warmed  into  a  delicious  dish  in  a  few  moments. 

While  coffee  is  relished  highly  by  most  men,  tea  will 
be  found  to  be  not  only  the  most  convenient  to  prepare, 
but  the  most  faithful  standby,  and  on  a  long  tramp  one 
who  rarely  ever  cared  for  ♦ea  in  civilisation  would  be 
surprised  to  find  that  his  frugal  meal  is  not  complete 
without  this  beverage.  In  all  cold  countries,  notably 
Russia  and  Canadian  North  America,  tea  only  is  relied 
upon  as  a  quencher  of  thirst  and  as  a  stimulant.  It  has 
constant  stimulating  qualities,  and,  unlike  coffee,  which 
is  apt  to  derange  the  digestion,  it  aids  it. 

Do  not  under  any  circumstances  indulge  in  liquor  while 
travelling,  and  though  we  believe  that  one  should  never 
be  without  it  in  case  of  an  emergency,  it  is  unreliable  as 
a  strength  promoter,  and  when  one  is  subjected  to  severe 
exposure  is  positively  dangerous.  Stimulants  tend  to 
relax  the  nerves  controlling  the  circulation  and  allow  the 
blood  to  flow  freely  to  the  surface  of  the  body ;  thus  so 
much  of  the  blood  is  exposed  to  the  cold  that  the  heat  of 
the  body  is  lost,  and  the  moment  the  effect  of  the  stim- 
ulant is  passed,  the  person  is  partially  numbed,  and  the 
cold  is  felt  more  than  before.  If  liquors  are  to  be  taken 
when  food  is  scarce  and  starvation  imminent,  rum  is  best 
as  a  stimulant,  as  it  is  more  of  a  food  than  the  stronger 
liquors. 


210 


ALASKA 


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Provisions  for  One  Man  for  One  Year 

8  sacks  flour,  50  lbs.  each. 

2  "     kiln-dried  yellow  corn-meal,  10  lbs  each. 
I      "       "       "       white      "         "     10    " 

3  "     rolled  oats  or  steel-cut  meal,  10  lbs.  each. 
50  lbs.  best  Japan  rice. 

30    "    evaporated  peaches. 

20    "  "  pitted  plums. 

20    "  "  pears. 

20    "  "  apples. 

10    "  "  and  seeded  raisins. 

30    "  "  apricots. 

50    "  "  potatoes. 

10    "  "  onions. 

10    "  "  soup  vegetables. 

25     "  fine  granulated  sugar. 

2000  saccharin  tablets. 

6  5-cake  packages  of  dry  yeast. 

1  box  mining  candles,  14  oz. 
30  lbs.  creamery  butter. 

125  "    best  boneless  bacon. 

25    "    dried  beef  hams. 

25     "     dry  salt  pork. 

6  4-0Z.  jars  beef  extract. 

6  cans  pure  cream  tartar  baking-powder,  i  lb.  each. 

3  i-lb.  packages  of  saleratus. 

2  sacks  fine  salt,  10  lbs.  each;   loo  lbs.  coarse  salt. 

1  lb.  each  of  pure  ground  pepper  and  mustard. 

\  "       ' "       ginger  and  cinnamon. 

\  "    pure  ground  nutmeg. 

20  lbs.  best  green  coffee. 

5  •'     tea. 

2  gross  matches. 

48  cans  condensed  milk. 

6  cakes  laundry  soap. 
6      "      tar  soap. 

6      "      floating  soap. 

4  bottles  Jamaica  ginger,  8  oz. 


SUGGESTIONS   TO  PROSPECTORS 


211 


loo  lbs.  beans. 

40     "     hard  pilot  bread. 

10     "     each,  split  peas  and  pearl  barley. 

25     "     dried  green  corn. 

1  qt.  evaporated  vinegar. 

2  gals,  pickles. 

10  lbs.  pemmican. 
20  lbs.  oleomargarine. 

Drugs 
Cathartic  pills. 
Quinine. 
Rhubarb  root. 

Boracic  acid  powder  for  the  feet. 
Arnica. 
Witch  hazel. 
Plaster. 

Clothing 

2  suits  waterproof  Mackinaw  underwear. 
2     "     lighter  weight  underwear. 
2  heavy  wool  overshirts. 

1  Mackinaw  coat. 

2  cotton  overshirts. 

1  pair  Mackinaw  pants. 

2  pairs  overalls. 

6  "  heavy  wool  socks. 

6  "  German  socks. 

6  "  cotton  socks. 

2  "  heavy  blankets,  pure  wool. 

3  "  wool  mittens. 

I  pair  wool-lined  leather  mittens. 
I  heavy  cap. 

1  wide  biim  hat. 

2  sweaters. 

I  pair  heavy  suspenders. 

6  towels. 

6  bandana  handkerchiefs. 

I  pair  snag-proof  rubber  boots. 

I     "     leather  hunting  boots. 


!> 


,  I 


t    Hi 


212                                                 ALASKA 

I  pair  miner's  high  shoes. 

I     "     rubber  shoes 

I  fur  or  fleece-lined  sleeping-bag. 

Hardware 

' 

I  pair  snowshoes. 

I  sled. 

I  sheet-iron  folding  stove. 

I  miner's  pick,  steel  point. 

I  prospector's  pick. 

I  extra  pick-handle. 

I  long-handle,  round-point,  half-spring  shovel. 

I  whipsaw. 

I  5-foot  cross-ci't  saw. 

2  flat  saw-files. 

I  28-inch  rip-saw. 

I  hand  saw. 

2  hand-saw  files. 

I  single-bit,  axe,  and  helve. 

I  whetstone  and  emery. 

I  hunter's  hatchet. 

I  claw-hammer. 

1  prospecting  sharpening  hammer. 

I  calking-iron. 

I  jack-plane. 

I  draw-knife. 

I  lo-inch  brace. 

3  bits — |-inch,  f-inch,  and  i-inch. 

2  spools  No.  20  copper  wire. 

I  11).  assorted  rivets  and  bu/ry. 

I  8-inch  monkey-wrench. 

I  6-inch  screw-driver. 

I  2-foot  rule. 

I  6-inch  magnet. 

I  kit  awls  and  tools. 

2  papers  8-  and  lo-oz.  tacks. 

3  chisels — ^-inch,  |-inch,  and  i-inch. 

4  packages  hobnails. 

\ 

2  padlocks  and  keys. 

SUGGESTIONS  TO  PROSPECTORS 


213 


2  8-inch  hasps  and  staples. 

2  pairs  5-inch  snap  hinges  and  screws. 

I  gross  ^-inch  and  f-inch  screws. 

5-lb.  flask  of  quicksilver. 

I  can-opener. 

I  chalk-line  and  chalk. 

I  spirit  thermometer. 

I  pair  shears. 

1  heavy  pocket-knife. 

2  acme  frying-pans. 

1  granite  coffee-pot. 

2  "       plates. 
2       "       cups. 
6  tin  spoons. 

1  basting  spoon. 

2  granite  buckets,  6-  and  8-quart. 
I  coil  electric  solder. 

3  knives  and  forks,  heavy. 
I  gold-pan. 

I  4-0Z.  gold-scale. 
I  pocket  compass. 

1  magnifying  glass. 
Lot  fishing  tackle. 

25  lbs.  assorted  wire  nails. 
200  feet  ^-inch  Manila  rope. 
3  .lbs.  oakum. 
3    "    pitch. 

2  "    tallow. 

I  pair  steelyards. 

I  scythe  stone. 

I  pair  pack-straps. 

I  hunter's  knife  and  sheath. 

I  cold  chisel. 

3  sacks,  needles,  and  hank  of  twine. 
I  wall  tent,  8  x  10,  8-oz.  duck. 

I  tarpaulin. 

I  hand-bellows. 

I  single-barrel  repeating  shotgun,  fixed  ammunition. 

I  pair  Eskimo  eye-shades. 


CHAPTER  XVI 


THE   BOUNDARY    DISPUTE 


!:) 


1 1   ">' 


1 

i 


THE  early  founders  of  the  American  nation,  who 
sought  an  asylum  in  New  England,  free  from  the 
religious  intolerance  and  oppression  of  the  mother 
country,  declared  that  they  offered  a  shelter  to  the 
"  oppressed  of  every  nation."  The  invitation  thus  ex- 
tended by  the  early  pioneers  was  generous,  and  how  it 
has  been  taken  advantage  of  is  evidenced  to-day  by  the 
fact  that  the  United  States  has  a  cosmopolitan  population. 
Those  who  sought  these  shores  to  make  homes  and  be- 
come good  citizens  have  been  welcomed.  They  have 
had  the  protection  of  Government  and  have  become 
factors  in  the  upbuilding  of  the  Republic.  And  the  open 
arms  and  generous  freedom  which  the  United  States  has 
ever  extended  to  kinsmen  over  the  water  are  traits  that 
but  typify  our  national  characteristics.  No  sentries  have 
been  stationed  on  crag  or  promontory  to  warn  off  in- 
truders; no  large  standing  army  h?s  been  maintained  in 
order  that  the  people  might  exercise  all  their  rights  of 
citizenship.  Differences  with  other  nations  which  have 
arisen  from  time  to  time  have  been,  for  the  most  part, 
settled  by  arbitration.  Sometimes  we  have  had  our 
rights  acknowledged,  and  at  others  we  have  acquiesced 

314 


r 


THE  BOUXDARY  DISPUTE 


215 


in  unfavourable  decisions,  that  the  credit  and  honour  of 
the  nation  might  be  maintained  and  that  peaceful  rela- 
tions might  be  sustained.  No  spirit  of  national  aggran- 
disement has  been  manifest  in  the  history  of  the  United 
States.  The  notable  wars  of  this  nation  have  been 
waged  in  the  name  of  life  and  liberty,  and  for  the  united 
country. 

For  a  number  of  years  prior  to  the  releasing  of  the  fur- 
seal  islands,  which  occurred  in  1890,  the  United  States 
declared  that  Bering  Sea  was  a  closed  sea,  and  as  such, 
the  fur  seal  could  not  be  hunted  in  those  waters  unless 
subject  to  such  rules  and  regulations  as  this  Government 
saw  fit  to  promulgate. 

This  position  was  opposed  by  Great  Britain,  and  the 
d'spute  resulted  in  submitting  the  question  to  a  tribunal 
which  convened  in  Paris  in  1893. 

The  award  of  this  tribunal  was  disastrous  to  us,  and 
seems  to  have  been  most  unjust,  but  as  an  advanced 
civilised  nation,  our  honour  would  be  impugned  were  it 
not  strictly  adhered  to.  No  nation  worthy  of  the  name 
can  afford  to  besmirch  its  reputation  by  any  attempt  to 
repudiate  a  solemn  compact.  Hardly  had  the  decision 
of  the  Paris  tribunal  been  handed  down,  before  the 
attention  of  the  country  was  called  to  a  matter  in  which 
England  again  became  the  aggressor,  and  that,  too,  in 
connection  with  the  Territory  of  Alaska.  This  is  the  so- 
called  boundary  dispute  between  Canada  and  the  United 
States,  embracing  a  portion  of  South-eastern  Alaska. 
While  the  British  and  Canadian  authorities  have  been 
active,  our  Government  and  people  have  shown  an  apa- 
thetic spirit  in  dealing  with  the  question ;  but  it  is  now 


2l6 


A /.ASK A 


•  l:   1 


1-Im 


!.■;  r 


noted  that  attention  is  bcin^  directed  to  it,  largely 
through  the  instrumentality  of  citizens  of  Alaska  and 
the  State  of  Washington  who  are  conversant  with  the 
question,  and  the  importance  of  this  strip  of  territory, 
from  commercial  and  geographical  aspects,  being  retained 
to  the  northern  territory  and  to  the  United  States.  We 
believe  that  it  is  time  for  a  re-enunciation  of  the  patriotic 
principle  contained  in  the  Monroe  Doctrine,  if  our  self- 
respect  as  a  nation   cannot  be  otherwise  maintained — 

that  the  United  States  will  not  permit  European  inter- 
ference or  European  control  in  America,  north  or  south." 

In  view  of  the  importance  of  this  question  to  the 
United  States,  and  especially  to  Alaska,  it  is  in  order 
here  to  consider  the  subject  in  its  various  details.  The 
claim  made  by  the  British  Government,  acting  at  the 
instance  of  Canada,  embraces  a  valuable  strip  of  land,  a 
portion  of  which  is  the  key  to  a  vast  extent  of  the 
interior  of  Alaska,  rich  in  mineral  and  other  resources. 
Though  the  immense  value  of  this  land  cannot  be  ac- 
curately determined,  a  knowledge  of  its  geographical 
position  on  the  coast  shows  that  great  commercial  ad- 
vantages will  accrue  from  its  possession,  and  that  the 
United  States  cannot  afford  to  be  otherwise  than  firm 
and  aggressive  in  asserting  and  maintaining  our  rights  to 
ownership  of  this  strip. 

An  interpretation  of  the  treaty  concluded  between 
Russia  and  England  in  1825  clearly  establishes  the  line 
of  demarcation  between  what  is  now  Alaska  and  what 
constitutes  a  portion  of  Canada. 

This  treaty  was  brought  about  primarily  by  a  ukase 
of  the  Russian  Czar,  issued  in  1821,   to  the  effect  that 


THE  BOUNDARY  DISPUTE 


217 


foreign  vessels  would  not  bo  allowed  to  approach  within 
one  hundred  miles  of  Russian  America.  Negotiations 
followed  this  ukase,  resulting  in  tlie  treaty  between 
Russia  and  England  in  1825,  wherein  Russia  accepted  54 
degrees  and  40  minutes  north  latitude  as  the  southern 
limit  of  her  possessions.  The  treaty  was  couched  in  the 
following  language : 

"  Sec.  3.  The  line  of  demarcation  between  the  possessions 
of  the  high  contracting  parties  upon  the  coast  of  the  continent 
and  the  islands  of  America  to  the  north-west,  shall  be  drawn  la 
the  following  manner:  Commencing  from  the  southernmost 
point  of  the  island  called  Prince  of  Wales  Island,  which  point 
lies  in  the  parallel  of  54  degrees  40  minutes  north  latitude,  aiid 
between  the  131  and  133  degrees  of  west  longitude,  the  same 
line  shall  ascend  to  the  north  along  the  channel  called  Port- 
land Channel  as  far  as  the  point  of  the  continent  where  it 
strikes  the  56  degree  of  north  latitude;  from  this  last  men- 
tioned point  the  line  of  demarcation  shall  follow  the  summit 
of  the  mountains  situated  parallel  to  the  coast,  as  far  as  the 
point  of  intersection  of  the  141  degree  of  west  longitude  (of 
the  same  meridian),  and  finally,  from  the  said  point  of  inter- 
section of  the  141  degree,  in  its  prolongation  as  far  as  the 
frozen  ocean,  shall  form  the  limit  between  the  Russian  and 
British  possessions  on  the  continent  of  America  to  the  north- 
west. 

"  Sec.  4.  That  wherever  the  summit  of  the  mountains, 
which  extend  in  a  direction  parallel  to  the  i  0  'sv  from  the  56 
degree  of  north  latitude  to  the  point  of  intersection  of  the  141 
degree  of  west  longitude,  shall  prove  to  be  at  the  distance  of 
more  than  ten  marine  leagues  from  the  ocean,  the  limit  be- 
tween the  British  possessions  and  the  line  of  coast  which  is  to 
belong  to  Russia  as  above  mentioned,  shall  be  formed  by  a 
line  parallel  to  the  windings  of  the  coast,  and  which  shall  never 
exceed  the  distance  of  ten  marine  leagues  therefrom." 


It  will  be  noted  that  at  the  time  of  the  purchase  of 


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Russian  America  by  the  United  States,  in  ir.67,  the 
limits  of  the  territory  were  described  in  the  articles  of 
cession  by  Russia  in  the  exact  language  which  appears 
in  this  treaty  above  referred  to.  It  will  also  be  observed 
that  the  name  Portland  Canal  is  mentioned  as  the  eastern 
boundary  as  far  north  as  the  fifty-sixth  degree  north 
latitude. 

At  the  time  of  the  treaty  between  Russia  and  England 
little  was  known  of  this  region,  save  through  the  explora- 
tions of  Captain  George  Vancouver.  In  his  narrative 
published  towards  the  close  of  the  last  century,  he  speaks 
of  Portland  Canal,  and  also  located  a  cr  in  rock  in 
Behm  Canal,  which  he  named  New  Eddy  Rock. 

When  the  treaty  of  1825  was  made,  England  recognised 
the  claim  of  Russia  to  the  territory  as  far  east  as  Portland 
Canal,  and  continued  this  recognition  until  the  purchase 
was  made  by  the  United  States  in  1867.  For  more  than 
twenty  years  preceding  the  treaty,  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany paid  Russia  an  annual  rental  for  the  privilege  of 
trading  in  the  inland  waters  to  the  north-west  of  Portland 
Canal,  and  our  Government  maintained  a  garrison  at  Fort 
Tongas  at  the  mouth  of  this  canal  until  1870  and  a 
custom-house  until  1889. 

The  maps  issued  by  the  United  States  since  the  Alaska 
purchase  and  those  published  by  the  British  authorities 
followed  generally  the  same  line  of  demarcation  until  the 
year  1887.  At  that  time  a  change  was  noticed  in  the 
British  maps,  for  their  line  was  then  made  to  extend 
within  the  limits  defined  by  the  maps  of  our  Government. 
Hence,  it  is  only  fair  to  infer  that  when  this  strip  of  land 
became  better  known  to  England,  and  its  value  more  or 


THE  BOUNDARY  DISPUTE 


219 


less  accurately  determined,  a  first  attempt  was  made  to 
set  up  a  claim  to  the  territory  through  the  medium  of 
maps  pubHshed  by  the  liritish  Government. 

And  the  claim  once  set  up,  it  may  be  further  inferred 
that  in  any  negotiations  which  should  follow,  England 
would  rely  upon  the  power  of  British  craft  and  diplomacy 
to  win  both  the  point  and  the  territory.  The  policy 
pursued  by  the  English  Government  in  this  matter  is 
entirely  in  keeping  with  the  method  of  aggrandisement 
that  has  been  followed  for  hundreds  of  years  by  Great 
Britain. 

The  line  of  demarcation  followed  by  tlie  United  States 
extended  ten  marine  leagues  back  from  salt  water  into 
the  interior,  claiming  a  strict  interpretation  of  the  articles 
of  cession  from  Russia,  whose  language  was  construed  to 
mean  ten  marine  leagues,  or  thirty-four  miles  inland, />v?/;/ 
every  point,  xvJictlier  bay  or  inlet,  where  salt  water  washed 
the  shores  of  the  mainland,  unless  a  defined  range  of 
mountains  intervened  running  parallel  with  the  coast,  in 
which  case  the  summit  of  such  range  became  the  limit. 

The  British  claim  that,  where  the  summits  of  the  mount- 
ains are  not  within  the  ten-marine-league  limit,  the 
boundary  shall  be  that  distance  from  the  main  ehannels 
of  water.  They  also  claim  that  the  eastern  boundary 
shall  run  dnc  north  from  the  southernmost  point  of  Prince 
of  Wales  Island  until  it  intersects  Bchm  Canal;  thence 
following  this  channel  north  as  far  as  the  fifty-sixth  de- 
gree of  north  latitude;  thence  following  the  line  of  the 
coast  to  the  intersection  of  the  one  hundred  and  forty 
first  degree  of  west  longitude.  Nowhere  along  the  coast 
between  Portland  Canal  and  Mt.  St.  Elias  does  there  ap- 


I 


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■  ' 

I 
i 

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i 

i; 

^  i 

1 

1  s 

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1 

i; 


220 


A  LAS  A' A 


pear  to  be  a  defined  range  of  mountains,  but  rather  a 
confused  jumble,  having  no  regularity  of  course  or  bearing 
any  relation  to  each  other,  and  the  noble  peak,  Mt.  St. 
Elias,  that  defines  the  boundary  between  the  British  pos- 
sessions and  our  Territory  at  the  one  hundred  and  forty- 
first  degree  of  west  longitude,  stands  solitary  and  alone 
in  its  awe-inspiring  magnificence. 

By  reference  to  our  map,  it  will  be  observed  that  in 
taking  Portland  Canal  as  the  eastern  limit,  an  castivard 
course  must  be  followed  from  the  southernmost  point  of 
Prince  of  Wales  Island  in  order  to  reach  said  canal.  It 
will  also  be  noted  that  from  the  extreme  northern  limit 
of  Portland  Canal  to  the  nearest  salt  water — that  of 
Walker  Cove,  an  arm  of  Behm  Canal — is  about  thirty- 
four  miles.  It  is  therefore  fair  to  presume  that  in  taking 
the  canal  for  a  boundary,  it  was  with  a  view  of  measuring 
from  the  inland  waters,  and  not  the  main  channels.  It 
is  also  worthy  of  note  that,  if  it  was  not  intended  to  take 
this  canal  for  the  eastern  boundary,  it  would  not  have 
been  necessary  to  mention  it  in  the  treaty,  and  the 
simple  reference,  due  north,  would  have  been  all  that 
was  necessary  to  convey  the  intent. 

It  is  also  claimed  by  the  British  that  this  canal  could 
not  have  been  intended,  because  it  does  not  extend  to  the 
fifty-sixth  degree.  It  is  true  that  it  does  not  reach  that 
point  by  about  one  mile,  but  if  it  were  five  or  even  ten 
miles  shorter,  it  would  not  be  any  stronger  for  the  other 
side,  for,  in  the  language  of  the  treaty,  "  the  same  line 
shall  ascend  to  the  north  along  the  channel  called  Port- 
land Channel  as  far  as  the  point  of  the  continent  where 
it  strikes  the  56  degree,"  the  line  is  what  is  intended 


W  i  .' 


THE  BOUNDARY  DISPUTE 


221 


iame  line 


should  strike  the  fifty-sixth  degree,  and  not  the  channel. 
Should,  then,  the  claim  of  Great  Britain  be  finally  al- 
lowed, she  will  acquire  a  strip  of  country  seventy-five  by 
one  hundred  miles  in  extent  between  Portland  and  Behm 
Canals,  which  rightfully  belongs  to  the  United  States. 

While  stress  is  laid  upon  the  encroachments  that  this 
boundary  line  of  the  British  would  make  upon  our  eastern 
coast,  it  cannot  be  too  clearly  demonstrated,  that  where 
their  boundary  line  defllects  westward  at  about  fifty-eight 
degrees  forty  minutes  north,  and  thence  follows  to  the 
one  hundred  and  thirty-sixth  degree  of  west  longitude, 
and  there  takes  a  south-westerly  course  to  Mt.  St.  Elias, 
is  to  be  found  a  strip  of  coast  territory  upon  which  the 
natural  greed  of  England  has  particularly  set  its  eye. 

The  British  claim  to  this  one  hundred  square  miles  of 
territory  would  also  include  Glacier  Bay,  the  most  won- 
derful body  of  water  in  the  world.  It  is  about  twenty 
miles  wide  by  forty  long.  Ton  other  glaciers  besides  the 
celebrated  Muir  Glacier  pour  their  huge  bodies  into  this 
magnificent  bay,  and  then  move  on  through  channels 
many  fathoms  deep  out  into  the  sea.  Snow-clad  mount- 
ains with  their  deep  ravines,  moraines,  and  mountainous 
gorges  fringe  the  bay  on  a',!  sides,  and  help  to  form  one 
of  the  most  enchanting  ^iid  delightful  spots  that  the 
imagination  can  conceivi . 

It  is  well  known  that  a  foreign  ship  cannot  land  passen- 
gers on  American  soil  without  conforming  to  certain  laws, 
and  as  long  as  Glacier  Bay  is  in  United  States  territory, 
British  ships  cannot  transport  tourists  travelling  over 
Canadian  roads  and  land  them  in  this  bay.  Neither  can 
foreign  ships  discharge  foreign  goods  in  American  terri- 


222 


ALASKA 


( 


,:.  ■  ■ 


t- 1 


^^j 


tory  without  observing  certain  customs  regulations.  But 
if  the  English  should  acquire  territory  inside  any  of  the 
inland  waters  of  Lynn  Canal,  they  could  establish  sta- 
tions, construct  trails  or  waggon  routes  into  the  interior, 
and  offer  serious  competition  to  American  merchants  for 
the  control  of  the  enormous  trade  of  the  vast  interior 
country. 

It  is  clearly  apparent  that  many  reasons  besides  the 
mere  desire  to  acquire  a  strip  of  land  cause  England  to 
push  her  claim  to  a  settlement  of  the  boundary  question 
in  her  favour. 

In  our  controversy  with  England  many  years  ago  over 
the  northern  boundary  of  the  Territory  of  Oregon,  which 
gave  rise  to  the  cry,  "  Fifty-four  forty  or  fight,"  our 
claim  was  that  the  United  States  boundary  should  extend 
to  the  point  where  our  Alaskan  possessions  now  begin ; 
and  had  we  not  weakly  receded  from  our  position,  the 
stretch  of  British  territory  which  lies  between  the  State 
of  Washington  and  Alaska  might  have  been  ours,  thus 
giving  us  a  continuous  coast-line  from  California  to  the 
Polar  Sea. 

That  it  is  clearly  the  intention  of  the  Canadian  Govern- 
ment, backed  by  England,  to  secure  this  strip  of  territory 
is  unmistakable.  For  the  past  two  years  the  labours  of 
the  Canadian  Boundary  Commission  have  been  marked  by 
a  determination  to  obtain  all  possible  information  con- 
cerning the  disputed  territory.  Government  engineers 
and  surveyors  have  been  indefatigable  in  their  explorations 
to  secure  in  detail  thorough  and  exhaustive  knowledge, 
which  will  be  placed  before  the  joint  commission  when 
the  boundary  question  again  comes  up  for  adjudication. 


i   tV: 


THE  BOUNDARY  DISPUTE 


223 


There  is  no  doubt  that  the  Canadian  Government  will 
make  out  the  strongest  possible  case,  and  in  this  it  will 
be  aided  by  the  intimate  knowledge  of  the  country  gained 
by  the  actual  investigation  of  their  engineers.  But  it 
seems  to  us  that  a  correct  interpretation  of  the  treaty  of 
1825,  coupled  with  a  firm  presentation  of  our  case,  should 
leave  the  British  claim  without  any  support  whatever, 
and  with  such  vigorous  assertion  of  our  rights,  Alaska 
will  not  be  despoiled  of  a  valuable  portion  of  her  heritage. 


Table  of  Distances 

NAUTICAL  MILES. 

San  Francisco  to  Seattle 820 

San  Francisco  to  Sitka  (outside) 1295 

San  Francisco  to  Dutch  Harbour  or  Unalaska  (outside)  2400 

Seattle  to  Juneau 976 

Seattle  to  Dutch  Harbour    ir  L'nalaska 2000 

Seattle  to  Port  Townsend 38 

Seattle  to  Sitka  (outside) 850 

Port  Townsend  to  Victoria 32 

Victoria  to  N anaimo .  76 

Nanaiuio  to  Seymour  Narrows 80 

Seymour  Narrows  to  Mary  Island. ... 455 

Mary  Island  to  Ketchikan 40 

Ketchikan  to  New  Metlakahtla 16 

Ketchikan  to  Loring 25 

I^oring  to  Yaas  Bay 19 

Loring  to  Wrangel 90 

Wrangel  to  Telegraph  Creek 200 

Telegra])h  Creek  to  Teslin  Lake 130 

Wrangel  to  Wrangel  Narrows 32 

Wrangel  Narrows  to  Juneau 96 

Juneau  to  Treadwell  Mill 2  J 

Juneau  to  Berner's  Bay 46 

Juneau  to  Chilkat 90 


I  ■ 


■   J 


1  } 


I ; 


i</ 


■  1 1 


•24 


ALASIfTA 


NAUTICAL  MILES. 

Juneau  to  Dyea  100 

Chilkat  to  Glacier  Bay 146 

Glacier  Bay  to  Sitka 158 

Juneau  to  Sitka 185 

Sitka  to  Killisnoo 72 

Sitka  to  Hot  Springs 15 

Sitka  to  Yakutat 210 

Sitka  to  Nuchek 440 

Sitka  to  Kadiak 560 

Sitka  to  Karluk 628 

Sitka  to  Unga 888 

Sitka  to  Sand  Point 8S2 

Sitka  to  Belkoffsky 942 

Sitka  to  Dutch  Harbour  or  Unalaska 1250 

Dutch  Harbour  to  Seal  Islands 220 

Dutch  Harbour  to  St.  Michaels 745 

Dutch  Harbour  to  Bering  Strait 820 

Bering  Strait  to  Point  Hope 250 

Point  Hope  to  Point  Barrow 300 

Point  Barrow  to  mouth  of  Mackenzie  River ;  550 

Tabic  of  Distances  from  Dyca,  Head  of  Steamboat  N'nvi- 
gation,  over  the  Pass  to  Daiuson 

MILES. 

Dyea  to  head  of  canoe  navigation 6 

Head  of  canoe  navigation  to  summit  of  Chilkoot  Pass. .  9 

Summit  to  head  of  Lake  Lindeman 8J 

Head  of  Lake  Lindeman  to  foot 6 

River  or  portage  to  head  of  Lake  Bennett i 

Head  of  Lake  Bennett  to  foot 24 

Through  Cariboo  Crossing  to  head  of  Tagish  Lake. ...  3 

Head  of  Tagish  Lake  to  foot   19 

Through  river  to  head  of  Lake  Marsh 6 

Head  of  Lake  Marsh  to  foot 19 

Foot  of  Lake  Marsh  Xu  Canyon 25 

Througli  Canyon J 


THE   BOUNDARY  DISPUTE 


MILES. 

Foot  of  Canyon  to  White  Horse  Rapids 2 

Through  White  Horse  Rapids \ 

Foot  of  White  Horse  Rapids  to  Tahkeena  River 16 

Tahkcena  River  to  head  of  Lake  Le  Barge 14 

Head  of  Lake  Le  Barge  to  foot 31 

Foot  of  Lake  Le  Barge  to  Hootalinciua  River 30 

Hootalinqua  River  to  Cassiar  Bar 20 

Cassiar  Bar  to  Big  Sahnon  River 14 

Big  Sahiion  River  to  Little  Sahnon  River 37 

Little  Salmon  River  to  Five  Fingers 62 

Five  Fingers  to  Rink  Rapids 6^ 

Rink  Rapids  to  Pelly  River 55 

Pelly  River  to  White  River 97 

White  River  to  Stewart  River 9 

Stewart  River  to  Sixty  Mile  River 21 

Sixty  Mile  River  to  Indian  River 18 

Indian  River  to  Dawson 43 

Dyea  to  Dawson 603^^ 

Tabic  of  Distances  from  St.  Michaels 

Mn,F.S. 

St.  Michaels  to  Golofnin  Bay 70 

"    Unalaklik 75 

"    Mouth  of  Yukon  River 85 

Andreafski 300 

"    Nulato 535 

"    mouth  of  Koyukuk  River 550 

"   Munook  Creek 780 

"    Birch  Creek    940 

"         "    Fort  Yukon 1005 

"    Circle  City 1095 

"    Eagle  City 1215 

"    Forty  Mile 1275 

"    Dawson 1365 


i  11 


n' 


'i!.\\ 


INDEX. 


Act  of  March  3,  1890,  15  ;  of  March 
3,    i89<j,   iij ;   of    May    14,    1S98, 

15 

Adams  Creek,  193 

Admiralty  Island,  43,  6r,  140 

Advice,  to  travellers,  202,  203  ;  con- 
cerning partners,  203,  204  ;  con- 
cerning packing,  204,  205  ;  about 
caching,  205  ;  regarding  pack, 
206 

Agp.s^iz  Glacier,  24 

At;riculture,  results  of  experiments 
in,  36 

Akutan  Island,  24 

Al-ak-shak,  meaning  of,  6 

Alaska,  original  name  of,  i  ;  pur- 
chase of,  5  ;  reasons  for  purchase, 
5,  6;  aboriginal  name  of,  6;  ex- 
tent of,  6  ;  Char'es  Sumner  sug- 
gested name  of,  (>  ;  disparagement 
by  A.  C.  Co.  of,  S  ;  population 
of,  9  ;  first  government  of,  9  ; 
first  convention  in,  9  ;  prohibition 
in,  10;  district  of,  17;  topo- 
gra])hy  of,  21  ;  two  great  divisions 
of,  21  ;  guiding  landmarks  of, 
23  :  no  large  towns  in,  31  ;  health- 
ful climate  of,  33  ;  enormous  ex- 
ports from,  S3 

Alaska  Commercial  Company,  f>, 
4')  ;  greatness   of,    7 

^/inkan,  jiublished  at  Sitka.  141) 

Alder  timber,  53 

Aleut  houses,  1 15 

Aleutian  Islands,  description  of,  23 

Alexandria  Archipelago,  60,  70 

Alliiys  gold  may  lie  mixed  with.  205 

All- water  route,  151 

America,  attitude  of,  toward  other 
nations,  214 

AiiiOii,  steamer.  133 

Andreaf^ki  Kivir.  1115 


Animals,  land  and  sea,  63 
Annette  Island,  41 
Anvik  River,  162,  187  ;  staking  off 
claims  discouraged  in  vicinity  of. 

Appropriations,  for  experimental 
agriculture,  36  ;  for  schools,  1 17 

ArbuzolT,  Olga,  147,  148 

Argument  in  favour  of  measuring 
from  inland  waters,  22(j 

Arkel  Lake,  173 

Articles  of  Cession,  limits  of  terri- 
tory described  in,  21S  ;  from 
Russia  strictly  inter]>reted  by 
United  States,  219 

Athabasca,  Lake,  175  ;  Landing,  174, 
175  :   River.  175 

Atka  Island,  24,  70,  71 

Atmosphere,  humidity  of,  34 

Attn  Island,  70,  71,  121 

Austin,  Rev.  K.  A.  and  Mrs..  122 

Hack-door  Route,  174;  settlements 
found  at  convenient  distances, 
T74  ;  lies  through  tish  and  game 
country,  174  ;  lies  over  old  track 
used    by    Hudson    Bay   Co.,    174, 

175 
Baking-powder  bread,  2nS 
BaM  Kagle  Mine,  42 
Ball,  Mottrom  I).,  9 
Bar  digging,  2(if) 
Baranoff,  Alexander,  \\(, 
BaranofT  Castle,  147 
Bean,  Kdwcird,  179 
Bean,  Professor,  50 
Bear,  brown,  72  ;  black,   74  ;  ])olar. 


ii 


Bear  Creek,  193 
Bear's  Nest  Mine, 
lieaver.  72 
Beaver  Creek,  i»ib 


40 


t 


Hi 


(  I 


I 

228                                             INDEX 

Bed-rock  Creek,  iSi                              | 

Canadian  Pacific  Railroad,  175 

'  }          ■ 

Behm  Canal,  25,  21S-221 

Canadian  Pacific  Telegraph  Co.,  172 

Y    Ivltf^ 

liench   claims,    igy  ;    legal   size    of, 

Canal,  Helun,  25 

kttuU 

1                                                                    20<) 

Candle-li>h,  61 

OT 

'                                                 Bench  tliRgings,  206 

Canneries,    salmon,   57  ;    opposition 

riifK*  * 

Bennett    Lake,    154  ;    character    of 

of,  58  ;  employees  of,  58 

country  around,    154  ;    timber  at. 

Cannibalism    formerly   practiced    by 

154;    saw-mill  at,    154:    kind   of 

Indians,  i  id 

boats  built,  154;  trail  from  Sum- 

Canoes, Indian,   114 

t 

mit  to,    168  ;  trail   from    Shallow- 

Canyon.  152,  156  ;  of  Copper  River, 

Lake,  1 63 

45 

Bering  Island,  2 

Cape  Prince  <>f  Wales,  20  ;  character 

Bering  Sea  ileclared  a  closed  sea  by- 

of  country  at,  28 

United  States,  215 

Cariboo,  7S.  172 

Bering  Strait,  discovery  of,   i  ;    as- 

Cariboo Crossing.  155 

pect    of   country  at,    26;  shallow- 

Carmach.  J.  W.,  probable  discoverer 

water  of,  27  ;   railroad  at,  27  ;  im- 

of Klondike,  192,  193;  finds  gold 

possible  to  bridge,  27 

on     Bonanza     Creek,      I03  ;    liis 

Bering,   Vitus,   his  first    expedition, 

discovery  causes  stampede.  193 

I  :  its  object,    I  ;   second  expedi- 

Carroll, Capt.   fames,  efforts  of,  n. 

tion,  2  ;  his  death  and  burial,  2 

16 

Berners  liay,  43 

Carving  and  engraving  by  Indians, 

Berry,  Mrs.  Clarence,  196 

113 

Bertholf,  Lieutenant,  heroism  of,  (jo 

Cassiar  Bar,  gold  found  at,  17S 

Big  Hill.  167 

Ceda.'-,  red,  ?2  ;  yellow,  52 

Big  Windy  Arm,  155 

Census,  Alaska's  last,  9 

Big  Salmon  River,  178  ;  gold  found 

Cpapnian  Creek,  18O 

on,  178 

Chatham  Sound,  131 

Birch    Creek,    161,    166,    iSo,    1S3, 

Chilkat,  35 

184  ;   jiromises   well,    184  ;    filled 

Chilkat  Inlet,  138 

wiih  rapids  and  canyons,  184 

Chilkat  Pass  Route,  173 

Black  sand,   value  of,    51  ,  >pccilic 

Chilkat  River,  173 

gravity  of,  51 

Chilkoot  Inlet,  138 

Blackett,  C.  S.,  15 

Chilkoot  Pass  Route.  151 

Boats,  Eskimo  skin,  ici 

Chini-sy-an  natives,  132 

Bogoston,  Mt.,  volcano,  24 

Chinook  jargon,  109 

Bonanza  Creek,  193 

Chippewyan,  Fort,  175 

Bonanza  kings,  igs 

Church,     Episcojial,     119;     Roman 

Iioots,  Eskimo,  2u6 

Catholic,    119 

boundary,  dispute  arises,  215  ;  em- 

Circle   City.    158;    when    founded. 

i)races    portion   of   Alaska,    215  ; 

161  ;  improvements  in,  161  ;  for- 

importance of  strip  involved,  216 

merly  rival  of    Forty   Mile,   184; 

Bristol.  144 

abandoned  in  1896  for  Klondike, 

Huckb^nd  River,  50 

184  ;  trail  from,  1S4 

r 

Burning  j)rocess,  i()8 

Clams,  (i2 

Climate,  of  interior,  33;  diversity  of, 

Cable  tramway  over  Summit,  153 

33 

t 

Cache,  how  and  where  to  build,  205 

Coal  Creek,  174,  177 

Calgary,  175 

Coal  deposits,  53,  54 

Call,  Dr..  heroism  of.  cjo 

Cobb,  F.  \V.,  193 

Canadian  Boundary  ("ommission.  222 

Codlisli  industry.  59,  6n 

Canadian  customs  otBcer,  155 

("onimittee,  National  Republican.  13 

Canadian  duties,  rate  of,  155 

Congress,  Memorial  to.  13,  17 

Canadian     laws,    regarding     placer 

Constantine,  Chas.,  insjiector,  195 

claim-,  i()i)  ;  .illow  lease  of  minewl 

Consumption,  natives  atllicted  with. 

land,  2(W 

2<) 

IXDEX 


229 


Convention,    National    Democratic, 

13  ;  delegates  to,  13  ;  organisation 

of  Republican,  13 
Cook,  Capt.,  early  explorations  of,  3 
Cook  Inlet.  2.  23.  45 
Copper  River,  44,  53  ;  gold  district 

of,  44  ;  Indians  of.  44  ;  navigation 

of,  44 
Cotton\voo<l  timber.  ;2 
Crabs,  62 
Crater  Lake,  153 
Creeks,  may  be  worked  in  winter, 

189  ;  original  custom  of  working, 

189  ;  present  method  of  working, 

189 
Creek,    Adams.    193 ;    Bear,    193  ; 

Beaver,     166;     Bed-rock.     iSi  ; 

Birch,   161,    166,    iSo,    183,    164. 

185  ;    Bonanza,     193 ;    Chapman. 

1S6  ;   Coal.    174.    177;   Crooked. 

1S4;  Dominion.    182;    Eldorado, 

193  ;  Fish,  187  :  Forty  Mile,  180, 

182,  1S3;  Glacier.  45.  iSo.   181  ; 

Gold.    186;    Gold    Bottom,    193; 


Granite,     186 
Hoosier,   186; 
dependence,  i 
Little    Mil'-^r. 

184,    185 
180.   iSi 


Hamilton.     186  ; 

Hunker.   193  ;  In- 

|.  i;S  :  Link,  45  ; 

i^tj ;     Mastotlon, 

Melsing.   48  ;    Miller. 

Mills.  45  ;  Molymute, 


184  ;  Munook.  161.  162.  iS;.  186  ; 
North  Fork,  187  :  Ophir.  47,  49  ; 
Preacher,  185  ;  Resurrection,  45  ; 
Ruby,  1 86  :  Seventy  Mile,  184  ; 
Six  Mile.  45  :  Sixty  Mile.  158, 
180;  South  Fork.  187;  Sulphur, 
1S2  ;  Telegraph,  170.  172;  Too 
Much  Gold.  193  ;  Wild.  187 

Cremation  formerly  practised  by 
Indians,  no 

Crillon,  Mt..  24 

Criminal  Procedure.  Code  of.  l3 

Cudahy,  Fort,  161.  174.  177 

Cutoflf,  167 

Dahl,  Conrad.  iSg 

Dall,  Prof.,  93 

Dalton,  Jack,  139,  173 

Dalton  Route,  173 

Darkness  does    not   interfere    with 

vork  in  summer,  1 88 
Da'.'idoff.  Demetrius.  148 
Davidson  Glacier,  139 
Davidson,  Prof.,  178 
Dawson,  metropolis  of  great  Yukon 

basin,  158  ;  ruled  by  Gold  Com- 


missioner of  North-west  Territory, 
159;  no  mining  license  at,  159; 
substitute  for  mining  license,  159; 
no  enterprise  undertaken  without 
permit.  159:  controlled  by  mount- 
ed police.  159;  wages  per  day 
jiaid  to  miners.  139  ;  how  early  in 
summer  prospectors  can  reach, 
160 ;  founded  by  Ladue,  197  ; 
l)opulation  of.  197  ;  timber  sparse, 
197  ;  logs  floated  down  in  rafts  to, 
197 

Daylight  for  tw(3  months  in  summer, 
18S 

Deep  Lake,  153 

Deer.  78 

Delegate  to  Congress,  President 
might  appoint,  19 

Depue,  C.  F.,  15 

Devil's  Thumb,  136 

Diomede  Islands,  27 

Discoveries  in  Yukon  i,r.sin  |)revious 
to  Klondike,  180 

Disputed  territory,  what  United 
.States  claims  regardi  ig,  219,  220  ; 
what  Britain  claims,  219,  220  ;  ex- 
tent of,  221  ;  inten'iioi  of  Canada 
to  secure  this  slrip,  222,  223  ; 
Canadian  Government  securing  all 
possible  information  regarding, 
222,  223 

Dixon  Entrance,  131 

Doctors  or  shtij.ans,  li  I 

Dog,  Eskimo,  gi  ;  worthlessness  of 
St.  Bernard  and  Newfoundland, 92 

Dominioi    Creek,  182 

Douglas  Is' and,  13S 

Druggists,  sale  of  liquor  by,  1 1 

Ducks,  80 

Dump,  19S 

Duncan,  Rev.  Wm.,  120 

Dusty  Diamond  Company,  48 

Dyea,  152 

Dyea  Route,  151  ;  distance  to  head- 
waters of  Yukon  over,  1 5 1,  152; 
Indians  prefer,  153;  prices  paid 
for  packing  over,  153 

Eagle,  bald  and  gray,  79 
Eddystone  lighthouse,  25 
EdgecoiTibe,  Mt.,  149,  150 
Edmonton,  174,  175 
Edwards,  teacher,  122 
Eldorado  Creek,  193 
England,  recognises  claim   of  Rus- 
sia, 218  ;  will   rely   upon    British 


I  1  i 


I     ''    ' 


• 


'  > 


230 


INDEX 


England — Continued. 

<liploniacy   to    secure   her   claim, 
2i(j  ;  policy  of  Government  of,  219 

Englisii,  explorations  of,  3 

Eskimos,  their  number,  28  ;  starv- 
ing conilition,  84  ;  origin  of,  93  ; 
resenihlance  of  Jajjancse  to,  94  ; 
their  characteristics,  94  ;  twins,  94; 
vast  extent  of  habitat  of,  95  ;  huts 
of,  95  ;  features  of,  98  ;  slaves  to 
tobacco,  too  ;  skin  boat  and  canoe 
of,  loi,  103  ;  personal  adornments 
of,  104  ;  style  of  clothing  of,  104  ; 
mackintosh  of,  105  ;  polygamy 
practised  by,  105  ;  physical  con- 
struction of,  105  ;  dancing  princi- 
pal amusement  of.  loO  ;  have  no 
religious  belief,  107 

Esquimau,  129 

Experimental  stations,  35 

Experiments  in  agriculture,  results 
of,  36 

Eyeshades,  Eskimo,  206 

Fairweather,  Mt.,  24 

Fanshaw,  Cape,  136 

Fare,  from  Seattle  to  Uyea  or  Skag- 
uay,  201  ;  from  Seattle  to  Daw- 
son, 201 

Field,  Miss  Kate,  iS 

"  F'ifty-four  forty  or  tight,"  222 

Fiords,  22 

Firearms,  205 

First  school  in  Alaska,  iiS 

Fish  Creek,  1S7 

Fish  River,  46,  47 

Fitz-IIugh  Sound,  131 

Five  Fingers.  53  ;  why  so  named, 
156,  157  ;  where  to  land  above, 
157  ;  how  to  make  the  run  past. 

157 

Flag,  lowering  of  Russian.  7 

Fogs,  prevalence  of,  23 

Folding-stove,  206 

Food,  considered  from  scientific 
standpoint,  207-209;  system 
yearns  for  fatty  and  oily,  207 ; 
heat-producing,  207 

Fort,  Chippewyan,  175  ;  Cudahy, 
161,  174,  177;  Good  Hope,  176; 
McMurray,  175;  McPherson,  176; 
Norman,  176;  Providenra,  176; 
Resolution,  176;  Selki.k,  157, 
173  ;  Simpson,  176;  Smith,  175  ; 
Tongas,  garrison  and  custom- 
house at,  218  ;  Wrigley,  176 


Forty  Mile,  158,  160,  199;  A.  C. 
Co.'s  station  at,  160  ;  population 
of,  160  ;  Josejih  Cooper's  residence 
at,  160  ;  quoted  as  ideal  1S49 
mining  camp,  160 

Forty  Mile  Creek,  180  ;  familiar  to 
all  miners,  1S2  ;  bars  have  yielded 
large  returns,  182  ;  drains  vast 
country,  182  ;  discovered  in  1887, 
182;  ri.sesin  Canadian  territory,  182 

Fox,  black,  75  ;  blue,  76  ;  cross,  ',(1 ; 
red,  74  ;  silver-grey,  ~U  ;  white, 76 

Franklyn  Gulch,  189 

French  I'ete,  39 

Fruits,  kind  of,  to  be  taken,  20S 

Funta  Bay,  43 

Fur  seals,  restriction  on  killing,  65  ; 
manner  of  killing,  66  ;  controversy 
about,  68 ;  prohibition  of  killing, 
70 

Fur  Seal  Islands,  63  ;  lease  of,  6, 
70,  215  ;  expiration  of  lease,  S 

Galena  deposits,  47 

Galvin,  Pat,  195 

Garside,  Gen.  Geo.  \V.,  15 

Gastineau  Channel,  30',  136 

Geese,  80 

Glacier,  Agassiz,  24  ;  Davidson,  139  ; 
Malespina,  145,  150;  Muir,  140, 
144,  145,  221  ;   Patterson,  136 

Glacier  Bay,  43,  143,  221 

Glacier  Creek,  45,  180;  rich  finds 
on,  181  ;  entirely  located,  iSr 

Glaciers,  145 

Glenora,  171 

Gnats,  206 

Gold,  first  discovery  of,  38  ;  first 
discovery  of,  in  paying  quantities 
in  Yukon  basin,  178  ;  Munook, 
186  ;  quartz  deposits  in  interior 
probable,  189,  igo  ;  steamer  in 
July,  1897,  brought  to  Seattle  a  ton 
of,  194;  output  of  i8g8  far  ex- 
ceeds 1897,  194,  195  ;  bought  and 
sold  by  Troy  weight,  205  ;  contains 
some  alloy,  205 

Gold  Commissioner  of  North-west 
Territory,  1 59 

Gold  Creek,  42,  186 

Gold  Bottom  Creek,  193 

Golofnin  Bay.  47 

Good  Hope,  Fort,  176 

Gould,  1.  Loomis.  122 

Government  reservation  at  St. 
Michaels.  164 


n 


IXDEX 


J3I 


\) ;  A.  c. 

|o|ni),iiion 
lres.i(ience 
leal     I  S4<) 

iniiliar  to 
I'e  yielded 
Jains  vast 
|i  in  1S87. 

ritory,  182 
l-Toss,  ■;(> ; 

white,  76 


Grand  Kapids,  175 

Granite  Creek,  iS() 

Grasses,  35 

(ireat  Britain  opposes  United  Stiitt'> 

on  Bering;  Sea  (|uestion,  215 
Great  Slave  Lake,  176 
Greek  Church,  149 
Greely,  207 

Grenville  Channel,  131 
Guiding  la"dniark,  a.    Priest  Rock, 

25  ;  New  Kddysldiie  Rock,  25 
Gulch  claims,  lyy  ;  present  legal  size 

of,  200 

Hair  seal,  80 

Halilmt,  60,  61 

Hamilton  Creek,  186 

tlamlin.  Assistant  Secretary,  12 

Harris,  Richard,  31} 

Harrishurg,  39 

Harrison,  Senator  Benj.,  10 

Hay  River,  176 

Haynes,  139 

Healey,     new     location     near     St. 

Michaels,  164. 
Hecate  .Strait,  131 
Hemlock  timber,  52 
Herring,  61 
Holt,  George,  178 
Homesteads,  limit  of,  16 
Hoochinoo,  log 
Hoonah  hot  springs,  26 
Hoosier  Creek,  186 
Hootalinqua    River,   156,   172,   178, 

179  • 

Hot  springs,  25,  26 
Houses  of  natives,  115  ;  of  Aleuts, 

115 
Hudson  Bay  Co.  paid  Russia  annual 

rental,  21S 
Humming-birds,  79 
Hunker  Creek,  193 
Hunter  Creek,  186 


it    leaves   Yukon, 
forms,   188  ;  never 


:8S; 
eat. 


Ice,  when 
when  it 
206 

Icy  Strait,  139 

Independence  Creek,  1S4,  1S5 

Indian  canoe,  114 

Indian  River,  181,  182  ;  rich  gold 
discoveries  w\,  1S2;  trail  from 
Klondike  to,  182 

Indians,  origin  of  Alaska,  108  ;  re- 
semblance to  Kskimos,  108  ;  lan- 
guage of,  108  ;  fondness  for  liquor. 


loq  ;  witchcraft  practised  by,  i  m  ; 
cremation  formerly  |>ractiseti,  1 10  ; 
cannibalism  formerly  ]>ractised, 
II I 
Indian  Trail,  i7,s 
Industrial  training  siliools,  118 
Inlet,  Chilkat,  I  38  ;  Chilkoot,  138 
Innoko  River,  1O2,  165,  1S7 
Interior,  best  time  to  go  into  the, 
152  ;  why  Dominion  Government 
has  been  searching  for  new  route 
into,  170  ;  why  but  little  prospect- 
ing for  quartz  has  been  done  in, 
190  ;  companies  now  formed  to 
pros|iect  for  quartz,  UY-i  ;  fair  to 
suppose  rich  quartz  ledges  will  be 
found,  190 
Island,  Admiralty,  43,  bi  ;  .\kutan, 
24;  .\nnette,  41,  121  ;  Atka,  24, 
70,  71  ;  Attu,  70,  71  ;  Bering,  2  ; 
Big  and  Little  Diomede,  27  ; 
Douglas,  138  ;  Fur  Seal,  63  ; 
Kadiak,  57,  Co  ;  Kings,  84  ;  Ku- 
rile,  70,  71  ;  .Magipopf,  60  ;  Mary, 
132  ;  Otter,  65  ;  I'ribilof,  63  ; 
IVince  of  Wales.  41,  219,  220; 
Shumagin,  bo  ;  Simeonoff,  60  ;  St. 
George,  65  ;  .St.  Paul,  65  ;  Tongas, 
131  ;  Unalaska,  24  ;  Ungar,  46, 
60  :  I'nimak,  24,  71  ;  \'aldez,  129  ; 
Vancouver,  129 

yanit'stoti'it,  V .  S.  steamer,  39 

Japan  current,  32 

jarvis,  Lieut.,  heroism  of,  90 

Juan  de  Fuca,  Strait  of,  3,  128 

Judge,  District,  11 

Juneau,  38,   136,  201  ;  discovery  of 

gold  near,  38 
Juneau,  Joseph,  38 
Juvenal,  Father,  122 

Kadiak,  23,  35,  I4() ;  Islan<l,  57,  60, 
146 

Kakni  River,  23 

Karluk,  57  ;  River  of  Life,  58 

Kayak  Island,  2 

Ketchikan,   133 

Killisnoo,  61 

Kings  Island,  84 

Klanarchergut  River,  165 

Klawak,  58 

Klondike,  30  ;  gold  first  taken  out 
from,  192  ;  Carmach  the  probable 
discoverer  of,  192;  world  startled 
by  spring  clean-up  of  1897,   194  ; 


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Klondike — Conliiuud. 

a  iihenoineiial  discovery,  Ig4  ;  esti- 
mate of  jjold  output  of,  ill  |8()8, 
ly?  ;  rcmarkalile  scenes  witnessed 
during  first  season,  u/) ;  character 
of  country,  i(}7  ;  hest  pay-dirt  in 
low  iAvampy  ^;rouml,  ly;  ;  why 
called  winter  (li(^}^ings,  i()8  ;  depth 
to  lieilrock,  iy&  ;  diftkulties  of 
prospecting;  in,  i()S,  ujy  ;  ([uartz 
probably  ])lentiful  in  adjacent 
mountains,  200  ;  richest  mininjj 
region  in  Yukon  valley,  20o 

Klondike  River,  158,  193  ;  formerly 
known  only  as  a  creek  forsalnmn, 
11)2  ;  rich  strikes  on  triliutaries  of, 
193  ;  little  gold  found  in  the  val- 
ley of,  194  ;  source  of,  iy()  ;  head- 
waters have  never  been  explored, 
I()6  ;  brigiit  future  probable  for 
Upjier,  197  ;  mouth  of,  197 

Knik  River,  45 

Koserefski  Mission,  53 

Kotzebue  Sound,  50 

Kowak  River,  50 

Koyukuk  River,  50,  162,  166,  iSo, 
1S6,  187  ;  town  locate<l  near.  187 

Kurile  Islands,  70,  71 

Kusko']uini  River,  32,  53,  18S 

Kyak,  103 

Ladue,  192,  io~  ;  first  Mayor  of 
Dawson,  197 

Lakes,  22 

Lake,  Arkel,  173;  Athabasca,  175; 
Atlin,  180,  Bennett,  154.  168; 
Crater,  153;  Deep,  153:  Great 
Slave,  176  ;  Le  Barge,  154,  156  ; 
Lindeman,  152,  153,  16S  ;  Long, 
153;  Marsh,  155,  178;  Middle, 
168  ;  Shallow,  i()8  ;  Summit.  168  ; 
Tagish,  155  ;  Teslin,  170,  171 

Land  districts,  17 

Land  Office  at  Peavy,  187 

Land  otter,  71 

Law,  regarding  claims.  20(1  ;  grant- 
ing liquor  license,  10,  11  ;  exten- 
sion of  Homestead,  15 

Le  Barge,  Lake,  154;  timber  for 
boat-building  at,  154  ;  length  and 
width  of,  150  ;  how  best  to  navig- 
ate, I5(» 

Legal  post,  206 

Lewes  River,  157,  178 

License,  Liquor,  10-12  :  every  branch 
of  business  must  have.  18 


Liebes  Company.  164 

Lighthouse,  K<idysinne,  25 

Lindeman  Lake,   152,  153,  168 

Line  of  demarcation,  followed  by 
U.  S.,  219  ;  followed  by  Britain, 
219  ;  extended  ten  marine  leagues 
hack  from  salt-water,  2ly 

Link  Creek,  45 

Lippy,  Mrs.,  196 

Liquor  license,  law  granting,  10,  11 
fee  lor,  1 1  ;  issuance  of,  1 1  ;  difti- 
culty  of  securing,   11  ;  penalty  of 
selling  liquor  without,  12 

Liquor  question,  importance  of,  12; 
regarding  smuggling,  12  ;  diffi- 
culty of  preventing  smuggling,  12 

Liquor  traffic,  attempt  to  restrain,  ii 

Little  .Miller  Creek.  186 

Little  Munook  Creek,  1 86 

Little  Windy  Ann.  155 

Lituya  Bay,  44 

Locating  claim,  199 

Logan,  Nit.,  25 

Long  Lake,  153 

Lop]i,  \V.  T.,  heroism  of,  90,  122  ; 
Mrs.,  122 

Loring,  133  ;  hot  springs  at.  26 

Luigi,  Prince,  144 

Lynn  Canal,  29,  43,  13S,  173,  222  ; 
railroad  from,  29 

Lynx,  77 

Mackenzie  River,  176 

Mackenzie  River  Route,  173,  174 

Makushin,  Mt.,  24 

Maps,  similarity  of  British  and 
American,  218  ;  change  noticed  in 
British.  218  ;  Britain  sets  up  claim 
through  medium  of,  219 

Marsh,  Lake,  155,  178;  kinds  of 
timber  at,  155 

Marten,  76 

Mary  Islanil,  132 

Mason,  I'rof.  Otis  T.,  93 

Melsing  Creek,  48 

Mexican  mine,  43 

Middle  Lake,  168 

Middle  Route,  Dominion  Govern- 
ment made  survey  of,  170;  gen- 
eral character  of,  170  ;  pack-trains 
proposed  over,  170,  171 

Milbank  Sound,  131 

Miller  Creek,  i8u;  length  of,  181  ; 
claims  located  on,  181  ;  why  aban- 
doned, 181  ;  prospecting  be^an 
again  in  1892,  181 


/XJ>/:.\ 


^33 


Mills  Creek,  45 

Mine,   Itear's   Nest,  31)  ;  Trcadweil, 

39.  138  ;  of  South-east  .\l:i-k;\,  45  ; 

ai>ou(  Sitka,  41  ;  at  Sum  I)uin,  41  ; 

Bald  Kagie,  42  ;  Shecj)  Creek,  42  ; 

Silver  i^ueen,  42;    near  Juneau, 

42  :  Mexican,  43  ;   Ready  iiiiUicin. 

43  :  at  Itcrner's  Hay,  43  ;  at  Funta 
Bay,  43  ;  near  N'akutat,  44 

J/i;».T,  publisiieil  at  Juneau,  13'> 

Miner,  summer  work  of,  198  ;  fall 
work  of,  lyS  ;  winter  work  of,  ii)S; 
sprinj;  work  of,  KjS 

Mineral  Springs,  24.  25 

Miners,  early,  41 

Alining  ktcorii,  publisiieil  at  Tuneau, 
13d 

Mink,  76 

Mission,  Koserefski,  53,  118  ;  New 
Metlakahtia,  118;  Sitka,  iiS 

Molymute  Creek,  184 

>Ionroe  Doctrine,  time  for  re-eiiuii- 
ciation  of,  216 

MooravefF,  Governor,  147 

Moose,  78 

Mosquitoes,  2(><^) 

Mosquito  netting,  206 

Moss,  37,  86,  S.,,  186,  188,  198 

Mount.  Crillon,  24;  Edgecombe,  149, 
150  ;  Fairweather,  24  ;  Logan,  25; 
I'erouse,  24  ;  Rainier,  127  ;  St. 
Elias.  3,  21,  23,  24,  53,  150,  211), 
220;  Tacoma,  127;  Wrangel,  24,2? 

Mountain,  Smoky,  1 58 

Mountain  sheep,  79 

Mountains,  Ratzel,  180 

Muir,  Glacier,  140,  144,  145.  221 

Muir,  Prof.,  140 

Munook  Creek,  gold  first  discovered, 
i6i  ;  rich  indications,  162  ;  recent 
gold  discovery,  185  ;  eleven  hun- 
dred miles  above  St.  .Michaels, 
185  :  within  limits  of  American 
territory,  185  ;  many  miners  in 
camp  on,  185  ;  reports  flattering, 
1S6;  high  qu^.lity  of  gold,  18O  ; 
winter  diggings,  i8() 

Muscles,  62 

Museum  at  Sitka,  149 

Mu!>krats,  77 

McCook,  Consul,  51 

McDonald,  Alexander,  195 

McMillan  River,  166 

McMurray,  F'ort,  175 

McPherson,  Fort,  17b 

Mc»^estion,  Jack,  182 


Nalia  Fails,  133 

.Nanaiinii,  12() 

Nanseii,  207 

Native  houses,  i  if 

New  F.ddystone  Rock.  25.  2I> 

New  .Metlakahtia,  58,  119,  132 

Neukliik    River,    47  ;   ideal    mining 

camp,  41) 
Noatuck  River,  J3 
Norman.  Fort,  17(1 
North  .American  Commercinl  <'o.,S, 

North  Fork  (."reek,  187 

Northern  aumra,  150 

Northern  Route,  170;  character  ol'. 

,170 
North-west  mounted  police,  195 
North-west  Territory, SVesiernlnion 

Telegraph  (o.'s  lines  through,  4, 

\-2 
Norton  Sounii,  47 
Nowell,  Thos.  S..  i5 
Nugget  taken  out  by  winter  proce-j 

of  mining,  i8g,  190;  weight  iiid 

size,  189  ;  value,   I  So 

uklukyeto,  trading   post  o'   A.  C. 

Co.  at,    l(>2 

ulato,  30 

ushagak  River.  53 


Ogilvie,  Wm..  ii)2 
One  Mile  Ri\er.  154 
Oolikon,  t>t 
Oomiak.  loi 
Ophir  Creek,  47.  49 
Organic    .Vet    of    .\laska,    1<> ;  pro- 
visions of.  to 
Origin  of  Fskimos,  93 
Otter  Islands,  65 
Oysters,  62 

Packing,  204,  205 

Paris  tribunal,  215 

Partners,  202,  203 

Pass,  Unalga,  25  ;  Unimak.  60 

Patterson  Glacier,  13(1 

Pavlof  Volcano,  24 

Peary,  207 

Pcavy,    above    .Vrctic   Circle,    187  ; 

land-office  at,  1 87 
Peel  River,  176,  177 
Pelly  River,  157,  i6<>,  173,  17S 
Pemmican,  208,  2CX) 
Peril  Strait,  14 
Perouse,  Mt..  24 
Petroleum.  54 


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234 


INDEX 


Phiscator,  Frank,  193 

Pitchfork  Falls.  167 

Placer  claims,  two  cla.sses  of,    19c)  ; 

origin  of  law  regarding,  199,  200 
Placer-miner,  life  of  a.  191 
Placer-mining,  iliAicult   in  interior, 

1S8 
Platinum  in  black  saiul,  5 1 
Pogrumnoi  Volcario,  24 
Point   Harrow,  wells  at,  22  ;    Rescue 

Station  at.  S3 
Polly  Mining  Company,  45 
Porcupine  Hill,  166,  167 
Porcupine  River.  166,  174,  177 
Port  Clarence,  reindeer  statitMi  at,  4, 

85 
Portland  Canal,  2i»-2ai 
Port  Townsend.  127 
Preacher  Creek.  185  ;  ]H;ciiliar  jjun- 

Ic^icai  formation  at,  1S5 
Precipitation,  32,  34 
Pribilof  Islands,  63 
Priest  Rock.  25 
Prince  of  Wales,  Cape,  20 
Prince  of  Wales  Island,  41,  219,  220 
Prince  William  Sound,  45,  70 
ProsfKfctor,  his  right  to  two  claims 

by  discovery,   160;    right   to   one 

claim  by  location.  i6«),  199,  2o()  ; 

supplies  of.   201  ;  length  of  time 

to  spend  in  countr>',  201  ;  should 

take  money   for    exf)eiise>,   201  ; 

be>t  form   in    which  to  carry  his 

money.  201 
Providence,  Fort,  176 
Pro\isions  for  one  man  for  one  year. 

210-213 
Pyramid  HarUiur,  173 

<2uass,  \0) 

Ouotation  from  Seward's  speech,  1 17 

Rafts.  153 

Railroad.  Skagtiay  and   White  Pa.is, 

29  ;  from  IJering  Sea,  29,  30 
Rainfall,  average.  33 
Kampart  City,  1S5 
Ranche,  portion  of  Sitka  culled,  149 
Rainier,  Mt..  127 
Rapids,  Upper  and  Lower.  146 
Rat  River,  177 
Ratzel  Mountains,  180 
Ready  Bullion  Mine,  43 
Reasons  cau>>ing    England  to    pusii 

her  claim.  222 
Red  River,  176 


Reindeer,  importation  of,  85  :  natu- 
ral food  for,  S5  ;  variety  of  colour, 
87;  will  solve  transportation 
problem  in  Alaska.  88  :  age  to 
break.  88,  89  ;  manner  of  driving, 
8g  ;  advant.ige  over  horsics,  89; 
liber.nl  appropriation  for  ]uirchase 
of,  89  ;  adverse  criticism  to  intro- 
duction of,  90  ;  cause  of  failure  of 
importation  from  La)iland.  qo 

Reindeer  station,  when  and  where 
established,  85 

Resolution,  Fort,  17(1 

Resurrection  Creek,  45 

Rink  Rapids,  extent  of,  157;  how- 
to  navigate,  157 

River  of  Life,  58 

River,  Andreafski,  1^15  ;  Anvik,  162, 
187  ;  Athabasca,  175  ;  Big  Salmon 
178  ;  Buckland,  50  ;  Chilcat. 
173  ;  Copper,  53  ;  Fish.  46.  47  ; 
Hay,  17C);  Hootalinijua,  ijd,  172, 
178,  179;  Indian,  181.182;  In- 
noko,  162,  ifjS.  187  :  Kakni,  23  : 
Kaltag,  29  ;  Klanarchergut,  165  ; 
Klondike,  15S.  192-198  ;  Khi- 
henee,  175  ;  Knik,  45  ;  Kowak, 
50  ;  Koyukuk,  50,  162,  166,  iSo, 
186,  187  ;  Kusko<iuin),  32,  53  ; 
Lewes,  157.  178  ;  Mackenzie, 
176;  McMillan.  i^6  ;  Neukluk. 
47,  49 ;  Noatuk,  53  ;  Nushigak, 
53;  One  .Mile.  154;  Peel.  176, 
177;  Pelly,  157.  i(>6.  173.  178: 
Porcupine,  166,  174,  177  ;  Rat, 
177;  Red,  176:  Selawik.  50; 
Skaguay,  167  ;  Slave.  175  ;  Stew- 
art, 158,  i6f),  177  ;  Stikeen,  135, 
171  ;  Sushitna,  45  ;  Taku,  172, 
173  ;  Tanana,  162,  105,  iSo,  1*1  ; 
Thirty  Mile,  156;  Three  Mile. 
155;  Tozikakat.  i(>2  ;  Unalaklik. 
29  ;  White.  78,  157,  15S  ;  Wood, 
52  ;  Yukon,  30,  53.  H7,  158,  163, 
165 

Rockwell,   town  of,  31) 

Roman  Catholic  Church,  119 

Rowe,  Bishop,  1 19 

Ruby  Creek,  186 

Russia  accepts  54  40  N.  lat.  for 
southern  boundary,  217 

Russians,  arrival  at  I'nalaska  of 
the,  3 

Russian  American  F'ur  Co.,  early 
posts  of,  4,  64  ;  expiration  of 
charter  of,  4 


IXDEX 


235 


natu- 

I  colour, 

jrtation 

lajje    to 

III  riving, 

les.  89  ; 

purchase 

fo  intro- 

ilure  of 

1.  qo 

|l   where 


1.7  ;  how 


Russian  Czar,  216 

Russian,  missionaries,  116;  schools, 

116;  settlers  engaged  in  mining, 

45  ;  traders,  64 

Salmon.  56,  133  ;  canneries,  57  ; 
salted,  59 

Scales.   I  52 

School  appropriation,  nS 

Schools,  industrial  training,  118 

Schwatka,  173  ;  reports  of,  44 

Scovel,  Sylvester,  167 

Scurvy,  208 

•Sea  otter.  70 

Seal,  Hair,  80 

Seatilc.  125,  151,  ifxi,  201 

.Secretary  of  Agriculture,  recom- 
mendation of,  36 

Seghers,  Archi)is}iop,  122 

Selawik  River,  jo 

Selkirk,  Fort,  173  ;  situation  of, 
157  ;  pillaged  and  t>urned  in  1853, 

157 
Seventy  Mile  Creek,  185 
Seward,  Secretary,  6,  117  ;  ridicijle. 

of,  5.  117 
Seymour  Narrows,  129,  14O 
Shagluk  Slough,  165 
Shallow  Lake,  168 
Shamans  or  doctors,  1 1 1 
Sheep  Camp,  i  j2 
Sheep  Creek  Mine,  42 
Sheep,  mountain,  79 
Shipwrecked  whalers,  rescue  of,  90 
Shishaldin,  Mt..  24 
Shortness    of    season    n>ade 

length  of  day,  188 
Shumagni,  60 
•Siberia,  26 
Silent  City,  141-144 
Silos  and  ensilage,  35 
Silver,    l)ought    anrl    sold    i)y    Troy 

weight,  205  ;  deposits,  47 
Silver  Queen  Mine,  42 
Simeonoff  Island,  («> 
Simpson,  Fort.  17^) 
Sitka,  35,  146-141);  industrial  school 

at,     149 ;    native    population    of, 

149  ;  while  population  of,  149  :  hot 

spring  near,  2(1 
Six  Mile  Creek.  45 
Sixty  Mile  Creek,  15S.  180  ;  trading- 
post  and  saw-mill  at,  158 
Skaguay,  138,  201  ;  its  past,  present, 

and     future,    168,    169 ;    railroad 

from,  29,  169 


up 


Skaguay  River,  167 

Skaguay  Route,  total  length  of,  168  ; 
mostly  used  in  summer  of  1S97, 
iCiS  ;  built  by  IJritish  corporation, 
166  ;  where  it  begins,  Uid  :  where 
it  leads,  \()U 

Skookuni  C.ulch.  193 

Slate  Creek,  186 

.Slave  River,  175 

.Sled  of  miner,  204 

Sledges,  Eskimonwxleof  makiii;;,  204 

Smelt,  61 

Smith,  Fort,  175 

Smoky  Mountain,  158 

Snow,  deep,    32  ;  character  of,   ;;3  ; 
I       never  eat,  2</) 
I   Snowstorm,  207 
i   Soil,  character  of,  34,  35 
I   Soutli  Channel,  176 

South  Fork  Creek,  tributary  to  liirch 
Creek,  184,  185  ;  tributary  to 
Koyukuk  River,  1S7 

.South-east  Alaska,  19  ;  boundary  of, 
3  ;  timber  in.  52 

Southern  route  from  Telcgrajjh 
Creek  to  Teslin  Lake,  170 

Spaniards,  first  explorations  of,  3 

Spanish  explorers  at  .Sitka,  3 

Spruce  timber,  52 

St.  Elias,  Mt.,  discovery  of,  3; 
height  of,  3  ;  description  of,  23, 
53,  150,  219,  220  ;  glacier  in  vicin- 
ity of,  24 

St.  George  Island,  65 

St.  Michaels,  30,  162:  wells  at,  22; 
principal  trading  po>t  of  A.  C. 
Co.  for  30  years,  163  ;  location  of, 
163;  termed  a  "summer  town," 
163;  population  of,  163,  164; 
scenes  of  activity  at,  164  ;  object- 
ive point,  104  ;  became  military 
post,  164  ;  improvements  made  Ly 
.A.  C.  Co.,  164;  improvements 
made  by  N.  A.  T.  Co.,  164  ; 
under  military  control,  165 

Stars  and  .Strijies,  hoisting  of,  7 

Stewart  River,  158,  i6f).  177  ;  coun- 
try very  promising,  179;  many 
large  tributaries  to,  1 79;  gold  found 
on  all  its  bars,  1 79  ;  no  great  strike 
on,  170  ;  miners  have  faith  in  fu- 
ture of,  179;  deposits  of  ore  pre- 
dicted. 180;  limber  found  on 
banks.  i8o;  ground  adapted  to 
agriculture,  180  ;  animals  abound 
in  wood  near,  1 80 


i 


'.' 


'4i 


1^ 


n 


\i 


236 


l.VDEX 


dilikulties 


Stikeen  River,  13;,  171 
in  navigating,  171 

Stikeen  River  Route,  169;  liritish 
Ciovernmeut  interested  in,  1O9; 
character  of  country  about,  171 

Stimulants  to  lie  avoided,  209  ;  ef- 
fect of,  21)9 

Stock-raising,  36 

Stony,  Lieut..  50 

Strawberries,  34 

Stri|i  of  territory  involved  in  bound- 
ary dispute,  215:  attention  now 
being  directed  to  this,  216  ;  value 
of,  216  ;  key  to  interior  of  Alaska, 
2  if) 

Sulphur  Creek,  1S2 

Sum  Dum  Chief  Mine,  42 

Summer,  long  days  of,  22,  iSS 

Summer  diggings,  I  Si) 

Summit,  152,  i()8  ;  difticulty  of  ford- 
ing at  foot  ol,  i63  ;  how  best  to 
accomplish  journey  over,  152,  202, 
203  ;  altitude  of,  i(>S 

Summit  Lake,  i()8 

Sumner,  Chas. ,  Alaska  named  by,  6 

Sunrise  City,  45 

Supplies,  where  to  purchase,  201, 
2U2  ;  (piantity  of,  202  ;  kind  of, 
202 

Sushitna  River,  45 

Swineford,  Gov.  A.  P.,  17 

Syphilitic  diseases,  natives  nlllicted 
with,  26 

Table  of  distances,  223,  224  ;  from 
Dyea  over  j)ass  to  Dawson,  224, 
225  ;  from  St.  Michaels  to  Daw- 
son, 225 

Tacoma,  127 

Taconia,  Mt.,  127 

Tagish  Lake,  155 

Taku  Inlet,  13^) 

Taku  River,  172,  173 

Taku  Route,  172;  not  practicable 
for  freighting,  173 

Tanana  River,  if)2,  165,  iSo,  181  ; 
length  and  tributaries  of,  162  ;  ex- 
tent of  country  it  drains,  i')2  ; 
slightly  explored,  162  ;  natives  on, 
ill-disposed  toward  whites,  162 

Tea,  2<x) 

Telegraph  Creek,  170-172 

Telegraph  line,  4  ;  begun  in  the 
fxj's,  172  ;  why  abandoned,  172  ; 
to  be  rejuvenated,  172 

Temperature,  low,  33 


Territorial  organisation,  o|)position 
to,  ig 

Territories,  formation  of  new,  19 

Teslin  Lake,  170,  171;  timber  at, 
172  ;  saw-mill  at,  172 

The  Mystic  Maze,  131 

Thermometer,  range  of,  207 

Thirty  Mile  River,  156 

Thornton,  C.  W.,  144 

Thornton,  Harrison  R.,  122 

Three  Mile  River,  155 

Timber,  varieties  of,  52,  53 

Tongas  Island,  131 

Tongas  Narrows,  133 

Too  Much  (lold  Creek,  193.  igj. 

Totem  poles,  significance  of,  iiu 

Tourist  Route,  124 

Tozikakat  River,  162 

Trcadwell,  John,  39 

Treadwell  Sline,  3(j,  40,  138 

Treaty  of  1S25,  between  Russia  and 
England,  2i(),  217  ;  original  lan- 
guage of,  217;  little  known  of 
region  at  time  of,  21S  ;  correctly 
interpreted,  223 

Troy  weight,  20; 

Tuck,  John  A.,  Ar.   and  Mrs.,  122 

Tundra,  37,  86 

Turnagain  Arm,  45 

Turner,  L.  M.,  93 

Ukase  of  Russian  C/ar,  216,  217 
Unalaklik  River,  29 
Unalaska  Island,  24 
Unalya  Pass,  25 
Unga,  46 

Unimak  Inland,  24 
Unimak  Pass,  60 

United  .Stales  law  regarding  lease  of 
mineral  lan<l,  200 

Valdez  Inlet,  45 
Valdez  Island,  129 
Vancouver,  Capt.  Geo.,  218 
Vancouver  Island,  129 
Vancouver,   Lieut.,  3  ;  first  explora- 
tions of,  4  ;  accuracy  of  his  charts, 

4 
Vassilefl,  Count   Nicholas,  147,  14S 
Vegetables,  34 

X'egetation,  luxuriance  of,  22,  34 
Verstovoi,  Mt.,  1  50 
Victoria,  12S 
Volcano,  Kogoston,   24  ;  Makushin, 

24  ;   Pavlof,  24  ;  Pogrumnoi,   24  ; 

.Shishaldin,  24 


iii; 


j\Df':.\ 


237 


Walker  Cuve,  220 

Walrus,  81 

Western  Alaska.  3 

Western  Union  'Telegraph  Co.,  route 
of,  4  ;  outjiosts  of,  4  ;  their  line 
may  lie  rejuvenated,  172 

Whale,  ISeluga,  So  ;  black,  Si)  ;  how- 
head,  81  ;  j;rainpus.  So  ;  rij.;ht, 
Si  ;  threatened  annihilation  of,  b2 

Whaling  vessels,  number  of,  S2 

Whalebone,  So 

White  River,  7S,  157,  1  5:^ 

White  Uor^e  Kapids,  151) 

White  Pass  Route,  Hi') 

Wild  Creek,  1S7 

Wild  fruits,  35 

Williams.  Tom,  bearer  of  letters 
from  Forty  Nlile,  182,  1S3  ;  his 
trip,  1S3;  suffering,  183  ;  his  In- 
dian guide  .caelies  Dyea,  1S3  ; 
success  of  mission,  183;  his 
death,  1S3 

Willou-  tind)er,  53 

Wiljoughby  Island,  43,  140 

Willoughby,  I'rof.,  140-143 

Winter,  length  of,  33 

Winter  <liggings,  41J,  iS(j,  19S 

Witchcraft,  1 10 

Wolverines,  7S 


Wolves,  78 

Women,  trip  to  ^'ukon  may  be  made 

by,  203  ;  endurance  of.  203  ;  need 

of,  203 
Ji'or/i/,  New  ^<>rk,  diiiation  of,  167 
Wnangel,  Maron,  135 
Wrangel,  I'ori,  137,  171 
Wrangel  Nairows,  135 
NN'raiigell,  Ml.,  24,  25 
Wriylev.  I'ort,   I7f) 

Vakutat,  mine>  near,  44 

Young,  Rev.  Hall,  122 

Yukon  flats,  it)i  ;  extent  of,  161  ; 
low  country,  161 

Yukon,  Fort,  33 

\'ukon  River,  177;  at  mouth,  30; 
timber  on,  53  ;  below  White  River, 
158  ;  below  Sixty  .Mile  River.  158  ; 
why  no  tow  n  nearer  mouth,  Ifi3; 
greatest  depth  found  at  mouth, 
163  :  free  for  navig.ition  about 
middle  of  June,  1(13  ;  traverses  an 
empire.  105  ;  kin<l  of  slean.'ers 
that  can  navigate,  !()•,,  idd  ;  how 
far  navigable,  1^15,  i6f)  ;  width  of 
mouth,  id-;  ;  course  of,  i()5  ; 
width  at  (litTereiit  jioints,  165  ; 
navigable  tributaries  of,   165,   106 


K?  '  ^^ ' 

1 

i     '^  ' 
1' '   ^ 

i^" 

B00K5  OF  TRAVEL 


Camping  in  the  Canadian  Rockies 

An  Account  of  Camp  Life  in  the  Wilder  Parts  of  the  Canadian 
Rocky  Mountains,  together  witli  a  Description  of  llie 
Region  about  Banff,  Lake  Louise,  and  Ghicier,  and  a  Sketch 
of  tiie  Early  Explorations.  By  Walter  Dwu.ht  Wilcox. 
With  25  full-page  ])hotogravures,  and  many  text  illustra- 
tions from  photograi)lis  by  the  author.  Second  edition, 
with  map.     Large  S^,  gilt  top,  $3.00. 

"  Mr.  Wilcox's  work  will  be  a  treat  to  the  jjeneral  reader,  for  adventure, 
science,  hisloiy,  s|)ort,  niountain-clinihinf;,  natural  liistory,  aiul  the  varied 
experiences  of  camp  life  are  all  depicted  with  the  skill  of  a  fine  descriptive 
writer  and  the  verve  oi  a  man  in  love  with  the  life  he  tells  about." — ZV/t' 
Chica^'o  Evening  J'ost. 

Two  Women  in  the  Klondike 

The  Story  of  a  Journey  to  the  (iold- Fields  of  Alaska,  liy 
Mary  E.  Hitchcock.  With  a  maj)  of  Alaska  auu  over 
100  illustrations  from  ])hotographs.     S''. 

The  volume  presents  the  record  of  a  journey  undertaken  in  the  summer 
of  1S98  to  the  (;oid-fiel<K  of  .Alaska.  Mrs.  Hitchcock's  journal  is  a  faithful 
recortl  of  her  experiences,  and  is  written  in  a  vivacious  manrer  and  is  full  of 
interesting  incidents.  The  volume  is  enriched  by  over  ukj  illustrations,  and 
will  contain  an  authoritative  niai)  uf  .Alaska,  showing  the  trails  and  steam- 
boat routes  to  the  ^ohUliclds. 

Alaska 

Its  History  and  Resources,  Gold-Eields,  Routes,  and  Scenery. 
By  Miner  Bruce.  Second  edition,  revised  and  enlarged. 
With  62  illustrations  and  six  folding  maps,     8". 

Mr.  Miner  Hruce  is  an  authority  on  .Alaska,  having  travelled  for  ten 
years  in  the  territory  in  the  interest  of  tlie  ^;overnnicnt  ami  also  in  connection 
with  private  enterprise-..  He  has  liad,  therefore,  ainjile  opportunity  to  ex- 
plore the  country,  and  his  experience  ha.-,  enabled  him  to  write  upon  tiiis 
subject  in  an  intere-.ting  and  authoritative  manner, 

Mr,  Itruce's  volume  includes  a  brief  history  of  the  territory,  together 
with  detailed  information  concerning  its  resources,  these  comprising  among 
other  things,  minerals,  lur,  timber,  and  lisli,  Tlie  work  also  contains  a  full 
descriptio'i  of  ilie  various  mining  camps  and  tlie  routes  thither.  I'ractical 
suggestions  are  given  which  will  ])ro\e  of  great  value  to  those  who  may  be 
]ilanning  to  engage  in  prospecting,  ainl  aNo  to  those  who  may  wish  to  visit 
Alaska,  in  order  to  enjoy  the  marvellous  scenery  otTered.  by  its  mouiUaiii-  and 
rivers,  its  glaciers  and  lakes,  ami  the  interest  always  attaching  to  life  in 
mining  districts,  especially  when,  coupled  with  this,  there  is  opportunity  of 
studying  native  character  and  conditiiuis. 


G.  V.  PUTN.VM'S  SONS.  New  Vokk  an-m  London 


BELLES-LETTRES 


1  w  :1     b  • 


WP 


Historic  Towns  of  New  England 

Edited  by  Lvmax  P.  Powei-k.  With  introduction  by  Gf.oroe 
P.  Morris.     With  160  ilhistrations.     8°,  gilt  top,  $3.50. 

Cdntknts:     Portland,  hy  Saimiel  T.  I'ickanl  ;  Rutland,  by  Kilwin 

I).   Me.-nl ;    Salem,  liy  (ieorjje  I).   Latimer  ;  Boston,  l>y  'I  In -i  Went- 

worth  Hiyj;ins(in  ami  Kilward  Everett  Hale;  Cambridge,  by  Samuel  A. 
Kliot ;  Concord,  by  Frank  A.  Sanborn  ;  Plymouth,  by  KUeii  NVatMHi  ; 
Cape  Cod  Towns,  by  Katharine  I.ce  Uates  ;  Deerfield,  iiy  vleorj^e  Sliel- 
(Um  ;  Newport,  by  Susan  CDoliili^e  ;  Providence,  l)y  NNiliiam  1!.  W  eeilen  ; 
Hartford,  l)y  Mary  K.  Talcott  ;  New  Haven,  by  Frederick  Hull  Cogswell. 

"  The  authors  of  tlie  Boston  papers  have  succeedeil  in  ])reseMtin;.j  a 
wuiulerfuUy  interesting  account  in  wiiich  none  of  the  more  important  events 
have  been  omitted.  .  .  .  Tlie  (|uaint  Cape  Cod  towns  that  have  clung 
tenaciously  to  tlieir  old-fashioned  ways  are  ilescril)ed  with  a  characteristic 
vividness  i)y  Miss  I'ates.  .  .  ,  Tlie  other  papers  are  presented  in  a  de- 
lightfully attractive  manner  that  w  ill  serve  to  make  more  deeply  cherished 
the  meniory  of  the  [daces  described." — .Wrc   Vori  Tiiiu-s. 

Some  Colonial  Homesteads 

And  Their  Stories.  By  Marion  Harlanp.  Second  impres- 
sion.    With  86  illustrations.     8°,  gilt  top,  $3.00. 

"  A  notable  b<iok,  dealing  with  early  .American  days.  .  .  .  The 
name  of  the  author  is  a  guarantee  not  only  of  the  greatest  )>ossible  accuracy 
as  to  facts,  but  of  attractive  treatment  of  themes  absoibingly  interesting  in 
themselves,  .  .  .  the  book  is  of  rare  elegance  in  paper,  typography, 
and  binding." — Roilwsicr  Dt'mi>crat-Chi\'iiiili:, 

More  Colonial  Homesteads 

And  Their  Stories.  P>y  Marion  Hari.and.  Fully  illustrated. 
S\     {/>/  />frss). 

Where  Ghosts  Walk 

Tlie  Haunts  of  Familiar  Cliararters  in  History  and  Literature. 
l>y  Marion  Haki.and,  author  of  "Some  Colonial  Home- 
steads," etc.     With  33  illustrations.     8"^,  gilt  top,  $-.50. 

"In  this  volume  fascinating  jiicturcs  are  thrown  upon  the  screen  so 
rapidly  that  we  have  not  time  to  have  done  with  our  admiration  for  one  be- 
fore the  next  one  is  encountered.  .  .  .  I. ong.forgotten  heroes  live  once 
more  ;  we  recall  the  honored  dead  to  life  again,  ami  the  imagination  runs 
riot.  Travel  of  this  kind  does  not  weary.  It  fascinates."' — .Wm  }\>ri 
Tinus, 

Little  Journeys  to  the  Homes  of 

Pamous  Women         t 
Good  Men  and  Great  s 

AKo  sold  SL'paiately,  each  81.75,  or  4  voK.  in  Imvx,  $7.t«v 


V(ll<:.,    illust., 

Sf.-so. 


1    American  Authors        /    j  vuls.,  illust., 
American  Statesmen   \  $3.50. 


G.  P.  PUTNAM'S  SONS,  New  York  and   London 


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Copyright  1899  by  Miner  Bruce. 
G.P.PUTNAM'S  SONS, 
New  YORK  AND  LONrON. 


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